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drmicrochp · 8 months

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Lo que sabe el chucao

This article is in English further below. Here I am posting it in Spanish.

Lo que sabe el Chucao

En Chile hay algunas aves cuyo vociferante saludo hace que todos se detengan y presten atención. Por supuesto, la bandurria, con su constante graznido como el de un camión retrocediendo, nunca será olvidada. Pero aquí, en lo profundo del bosque lluvioso patagónico, el pequeño chucao es memorable. Su “cheep cheep cheep” me recuerda a un pequeño dispositivo electrónico calentándose, su pequeña caja de altavoz expulsando decibeles más fuertes de lo que su tamaño sugeriría. Pequeño, de color dorado, con un pecho a cuadros blanco y negro, prefiere correr por el suelo en lugar de volar por el aire. Este pájaro, junto con todos sus ruidosos amigos en el bosque lluvioso, canta porque están felices. Cantan porque son libres.

Necesito documentar todas las vistas a lo largo de este increíble viaje para nunca olvidar cada uno de los momentos que lo han convertido en el viaje de toda una vida. Hace 26 años no había carreteras abiertas donde estoy parado ahora. Los chilenos de una cierta tenacidad han atravesado montañas, excavado túneles, construido puentes y nivelado carreteras para hacer que esta ruta sea transitable. Transitable, apenas, con vehículos de tracción en las cuatro ruedas necesarios para la mayoría de los tramos. Eso o mulas de carga o burros de montaña. Una vez embarcados en esto, "prepárate".

Puerto Varas, Hornopirén, Chaitén, Puyuhuapi, Lago Elizalde, Coyhaique, Cerro Castillo, Puerto Tranquilo y Puerto Ibáñez. Lugares que nunca había escuchado antes de venir aquí. Raquel, mi esposa, leyó todos los sitios web, consultó a todos los que conocen estos lugares y llamó a todos los servicios de ferry públicos para descubrir cuándo podríamos cruzar los ríos y lagos con nuestro fiel Subaru. Resulta que la mayoría de las reservas de hoteles y transbordadores deben realizarse con dos meses de anticipación, no con el mes que habíamos previsto. Con persistencia e innumerables llamadas telefónicas, ella llenó todos los pequeños cuadros del calendario.

Entrando al denso bosque lluvioso y las imponentes montañas, albergaba sospechas (nunca expresadas) de que ni nuestra resistencia ni nuestro Subaru estarían a la altura de la tarea. Para sumar a mis dudas, estaba padeciendo una grave dolencia estomacal que nunca mencioné, no queriendo arriesgar la posibilidad de que se cerrara la ventana en nuestra cuidadosamente planificada empresa. Sabía que mi indigestión pasaría. Ninguna gran aventura viene sin algún sacrificio.

Pequeños valles tallados por la erosión de los glaciares en retroceso marcaban nuestro camino. Las puntiagudas cimas de las montañas nos miraban desde arriba, monstruos con dientes de sierra que asomaban sus cabezas sobre la tierra, custodiando los pasos de montaña. Nubes de polvo, cortinas de ceguera, seguían a cualquier vehículo que nos adelantara. A veces, detenerse para una fotografía valía el riesgo de que otro vehículo se acercara sigilosamente. La "Carretera Austral" es un nombre equivocado, a menudo una carretera de grava de un solo carril, donde los vehículos que se aproximan deben negociar un punto estrecho para pasarse uno al otro. La conquistamos cuatro horas a la vez. Los hostales, las posadas rurales de la Patagonia, eran nuestra recompensa al final de cada pequeño viaje, una oportunidad para disfrutar de café y algún pequeño pastelito.

Hornopirén fue lo primero, donde compartimos una habitación con una familia, quitándonos los zapatos al entrar. El uso de mascarillas era obligatorio y las heridas de la COVID eran recientes. La supervivencia, después de la pérdida de años de turismo, los había dejado más que cautelosos. Paneles solares flanqueaban el techo y la mezcla futurista de una oficina de computadoras, juguetes infantiles y una estufa de leña me recordaba a una familia de sobrevivientes postapocalípticos. Aquí también conocimos a nuestro primer chucao, que estaba muy emocionado por recibir visitantes en su hábitat remoto.

Puyuhuapi y el hostal Ventisquero fueron una vista bienvenida. Viajeros entrando y saliendo. Conocimos a los locales "Ángeles del Infierno" (motociclistas) en la cocina comunitaria. (En realidad, su club se llamaba "Aysén") Con sus formidables motocicletas, chaquetas de cuero negro y barrigas de cerveza, serían bienvenidos en cualquier bar de motociclistas. Una vez más, incluso un refugio comunitario, era un santuario en la carretera.

Usando coordenadas GPS, encontramos nuestra siguiente parada cerca de Coyhaique. El lugar se llamaba Lago Elizalde y era un castillo encantado en comparación con nuestras anteriores estancias. Como siempre, con la precisión de nuestras indicaciones de búsqueda del tesoro, tuvimos discusiones animadas sobre qué camino tomar o cuál era la dirección correcta. Encontrar el camino correcto sin marcar (típico) fue una cuestión de consultar a los leñadores locales. Por supuesto, llamar a alguien estaba fuera de cuestión. En el interior, el servicio celular es irregular. Encontrar este lugar maravilloso fue nuestra recompensa.

Carmen, la ama de llaves, recepcionista, cocinera y lavandera, siempre tenía una sonrisa a pesar de sus tareas interminables. Era un alma ligada por contrato, atendiendo a un flujo interminable de visitantes. Cojeando hasta la cafetería, otro edificio y otra colina desde nuestra cabaña, me dio la confianza para caminar hasta una cascada cercana, a menos de un kilómetro de nuestra ubicación. Sorpresas mágicas esperan a aquellos con el coraje de seguir adelante, a pesar de las dificultades y obstáculos.

Al regresar a Coyhaique, pasando por campos amarillos y las bocas hambrientas de piedra que nos flanqueaban por todos lados, descubrimos nuestra primera ciudad de la región Austral. El BnB "Raíces" parecía sacado de una revista. Muebles suecos modernos, paredes blancas como el cascarón de huevo y superficies de madera pálida de álamo. Vistas de ventanas de pared a pared de un jardín inglés. Iluminación desplazada. Un baño completamente blanco de cerámica. El desayuno por la mañana era solo para nosotros y tenía todo tipo de delicias, desde huevos y frutas hasta pan casero y bollos de canela. El almuerzo fue en una cafetería vegana artesanal con comida y ambiente excepcionales. Nos rodeaban mochileros extranjeros de todas las naciones.

A partir de ahí, fuimos en busca de una heladería especial, probando sabores que nunca soñamos. Lucuma, calafate, maki, fruta de pepino y chirimoya son algunos de los sabores locales que hemos descubierto aquí.

Viajando a Puerto Tranquilo, que habíamos imaginado como nuestra primera área de lanzamiento para muchas de las excursiones que habíamos planeado, nos encontramos con los muchos visitantes de la "nación Austral Woodstock". Estoy exagerando, pero este "pueblo de una sola calle" (Lonely Planet 2015) se ha convertido en un paraíso para los viajeros con excursiones a glaciares, las cuevas de mármol y la laguna San Rafael. Los tres podrían calificar como "maravillas del mundo" y todos son accesibles desde aquí. Sin embargo, muchos deben haber volado desde Santiago a Coyhaique y luego viajaron la distancia más corta. Hice una caminata con Raquel y nuestro hijo, Joaquín, a través de un bosque naranja y rojo de árboles arrayan, salpicado de escarabajos rinocerontes muertos, y vi a una comadreja salir de su madriguera. Joaquín se entretenía hablando con los pájaros, usando la aplicación Merlin en su teléfono celular. Algunos se relacionaron con él, pero la mayoría no se inmutó.

Imagina una cueva de rayas de caramelo en el borde del agua, estriada y retorcida en formas increíbles. Este es el lugar de las famosas "Catedrales de Mármol" o las "Cuevas de Mármol". El Lago General Carrera (Puerto Tranquilo) fue el sitio de una cantera de mármol, pero luego se abandonó porque el mármol extraído era demasiado suave, inutilizable para la construcción. Sin embargo, el lugar rayado de cal y blanco se volvió famoso a medida que el mármol poroso se erosionó en extraños agujeros fundidos, cuevas y salientes. Aparentemente, el agua ha estado disolviendo el mármol durante millones de años. Pilares de mármol erosionado sostienen techos de roca y mármol verde y pasajes hacia las cuevas se pueden navegar en bote o en kayak. Sin embargo, las aguas del lago son tan traicioneras que solo en días de clima perfecto se permiten las excursiones. Tuvimos la suerte de visitar en un día de verano tranquilo, brillante y soleado, cuando el mármol verde brillaba como helado de pistacho. Helado, derretido en formas extrañas donde todos los que los ven imaginan algo diferente.

Otros dos destinos notables, el glaciar "Exploradores" y el Lago San Rafael, todavía están más allá de mi alcance, ya sea por mi capacidad de escalada limitada o por la ocupación completa en todos los tours. El primero promete la oportunidad de saltar por encima de un glaciar con crampones y entrar en algunas cuevas de hielo. El segundo es un lago que bordea un glaciar donde los icebergs de colores del arco iris flotan sobre el agua, algún capricho de la naturaleza y la luz que colorean el hielo como conos de nieve vendidos en un día de verano.

Quizás hay más descubrimientos por delante para asombrarme y deleitarme. Después de todo, aún no hemos llegado al destino más al sur de nuestro viaje. Aves, escarabajos, flores, lagos, volcanes y montañas siguen atentos a nuestro paso, invadiendo sus santuarios, mientras miramos más allá del telón del dominio del hombre.

#expatriate #chile #expat #expatlife #expatblogger #patagonia #carreteraaustral

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mage-and-the-tantrums · 1 year

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Back to Istanbul

Here we go again. Same drill as before. Same unrest prior to the trip, same unease, same agitation in my stomach. I lied to myself, same as before, whenever my flight was in early morning; I always commit mentally to at least 6 hours of sleep, and I end up sleeping one hour at the very best. The airport is perfectly the same as three years ago, the date of my last flight to Istanbul. One good thing about my country is familiarity; things are rarely changed, so the sense of familiarity they evoke is perfect and immaculate. Upon landing in Istanbul, I was surprised by the prices. Nothing makes sense anymore. I had heard of the inflation but the reality of things was beyond my imagination. For starters, the same amount of my monthly allowance 3 years ago can be spent very easily in 2 days now. I went outside to have a smoke, this filthy habit of mine that I decided to pick up again during my trip (yes, it was a decision, for purely nostalgic reasons). By that time I failed to have a SIM card (thus no communication possible), and the "free wifi" of the airport required authentication with a Turkish number (this is the perfect illustration of the Turkish logic). For a moment I felt stranded, and the urgency to find a solution, to be in control, resurged again. Much of the five years I had spent in Istanbul were about letting go, and not having to be in the driving seat. Everything flew normally eventually. Well, not everything, but mostly, one could find a solution here, always. Maybe the prayers of my mother hit home, and God made it easier to me in here. Or maybe the sophisticated transportation, or maybe a combination of both. The first interaction I had with a Turkish, was an angry bus driver who was cursing by the time he was fetching my luggage. I could not tell for sure the subject of his wrath, but he did not speak to me directly. Normally, I would curse back in Arabic, or I would spend the next few hours fuming at the expats' situation in Turkey. But I decided it is a trivial matter, and my energy not to be wasted. The first thing I had as food was a standard sandwich and çay. Oh, how I missed çay, and a cigarette. The first time I ever had Turkish tea, I did not understand how people drink such an abomination. But somewhere during my 2nd or 3rd year, I became an addict of that drink, especially during winter. They serve it very hot, and it warms the depths of a soul on a cold winter. Add a cigarette to the mix, and you're set to go. Just as my right foot was sore from the cold, Mey came. We went to her place, and I entered one of the places I could call home in Istanbul. She was the person who opened her arms for me when I was at my lowest, and shared her flat pretty much unconditionally. Her place has a very unique sense of warmth to it. It is very small, but very intimate. She did an amazing job with the furniture and the layout of every room (2 and a living-room). I feel like cramming my first week here, after 937 days, is too much. More of the same to come.

#excerpt from a story i'll never write #thoughts of mage #night thoughts #istanbul #poetsandwriters #writers thoughts #writerscafe #writerssociety #writeblr #mage #writersociety #writers and readers #writers #expatblogger #expat

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aucklandexpat · 1 year

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@queenstownnz #queenstown #southisland #southislandnz #nz #newzealand #newzealandguide #newzealandlife #newzealandvacations #newzealandtrip #newzealandnatural #newzealandadventures #newzealandpics #newzealandtravel #visitqueenstown #visitnewzealand #travel #travelphotography #landscape #landscapephotography #summer #lakes #mountain #trees #expat #expatlife #expatfamily #expatblogger #expatlifestyle https://www.instagram.com/p/Co7vGZbSizB/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

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kbhafterdk · 1 year

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I'll tell the story from the end. It was sunny and clear this Friday, especially compared to Thursday, when winter suddenly arrived. I was finally able to organise a walking tour through Copenhagen, I've been using public transport all the time lately, it was about time for a little change. So, I started out via Nørrebro, it's just our nearest area, walked around Frederiksberg and eventually ended up in Vesterbro (just over 15 kilometres). From there I took the train, it was already dark but not that late, and I could feel the cold, the closer to the harbour, the worse and colder the wind.

In fact, this walk overlapped with our usual bus rides in many ways. The thing is, while I' m on the bus, I tend to flag down interesting spots and sort of make a mental note that I have to go back and take a picture. That's why part of my walk yesterday was exactly the places that were hanging out somewhere in my mind. The action is finally complete and I can move on.

This walk, by the way, gave interesting insights. On the one hand, I feel completely confident and familiar with the city, I understand and know its structure, its logic, so to speak, but at the same time, I feel that I am missing something. I realise that I don't yet have anything to anchor myself to and create my own map of the city with my own emotional nodes. So I will be exploring and experiencing.

🌠

Here are photos only from Nørrebro 💫

#danish #Denmark #Copenhagen #københavn #blogger #blog #bloggerlife #expatlife #expatindenmark #expatblogger #everyday #personal #city #citylife #inspiration #life #lifestyle #photography #cityphotography #streetphotography #autumn #weather #weekend #story #walk #friday #winter #personal

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clementinaerri · 3 years

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Head of Hermes and a goddess

in the Ephesos Museum in Vienna

https://www.instagram.com/clementinaerri/

#ephesus #museums #art museum #aesthetic #art #neutral aesthetic #expatlife #art history #europe #expatblogger #vienna #ancient greek #greek pantheon #roman pantheon #ancient greek gods #ancient rome #greek mythology #roman mythology

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gaysie · 3 years

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i want to live at Camp Chitaqua.

i will spell literature as hippo porn and use patrol reports as sexting. i would watch Spreadsheets on Laptop all night while drinking an Eldritch Horror with my Cabin. i’ll have Chitaqua Toast every day that’s worth 5 bottles of Joe beer. i would go to Ichabod every night. i am also more likely to meet brownies, hot witches, Roman goddesses, and Women with “A” Names.

i wish i was Chitaquan :’(

#chitaquacore #chitaqua fans #chitaquaboo #travel blog #food blog #expatblogger #emigrant #apocalypsecore #chitaqua pop #chitaqua idols #laptop core #campcore #hippocore #spreadsheetcore

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camilleauquebec · 2 years

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gracereally · 3 years

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Settling in

It's hard to believe that it's been over 4 weeks since I boarded a plane to come to Korea. I've only been free for half of that time, but I've already explored and learned so much. So far, things are going well! There are still growing pains, but I've been really enjoying my time here despite the strict covid guidelines that prevent me from being able to travel often or teach the way I would prefer.

It's crazy, but even after only two and a half weeks at work, I already feel myself settling into a routine. Routines have always helped me understand what to expect from the days and weeks ahead. This post is a quick rundown of what a typical day looks like for me in Korea.

9:00a: Wake up! I set my alarm for 9 so that I can still have a productive and full morning. Occasionally, I do wake up earlier than this. Other times, I'm so exhausted I only want to lay in bed. Luckily I have plenty of time before work for either option.

9:00a ~ 12:00p: During my mornings, I like to speak with my family and friends, since it is the evening for them. If I don't speak to anyone, I try to do something fun for myself, like read a book or play a video game. I also make myself breakfast every day. While I get ready for work, I watch TV.

Between 12:00p ~ 12:30p: I prepare to leave for work. All of my co-workers live in the same apartment building, so travel to work together. We can walk or taxi. Typically, we like to walk when it's nice out, but taxis are quick and easy (as well as cheap!) when the weather is bad or it is way too hot.

1:00p: Arrive at school

1:00p ~ 3:50p: This is my prep period. It may not seem like a ton of time, but we have a lot of resources for our lessons, so if we use our time effectively there's plenty of it for lesson planning. So far, we haven't been finding out what classes we teach that day until we get to work, which has been a huge downside. I would much prefer to be able to plan ahead or use any extra time for future lessons. However, I think this will change soon and I will get a regular schedule as I and the other new teachers settle in.

3:50p ~ 6:00p: I teach two classes to younger students, typically between the ages of first to third grade.

6:00p ~ 6:50p: Dinner break! Every day my school provides dinner for us. We order from a different restaurant each day and everyone submits their order before classes. Our order is waiting for us during our dinner break :)

6:50p ~ 9:00p: I teach two more classes, this time to the older students. The students in this block are typically between third and sixth grade.

9:00p ~ 9:30p: my co-workers and I try to finish up some grading and other loose ends before we head out. The work day technically ends at 9:10, but we often stay later to finish a few things. I really don't mind since I hate taking grading home.

I typically get home before 10:00p. We usually take the bus, but we can also walk on a nice night.

For the rest of the night, I have free time! I usually do my chores, like taking out the trash (such a hassle in Korea) or going for groceries. I try not to snack too much, but sometimes the convenience store is too tempting! I like to watch TV or do some online shopping to relax at night before I hit the hay around 1 or 2.

But there's fun stuff too I swear!

On weekends I've been exploring and shopping! Below are some more photos I took last weekend. I met up with a friend in Itaewon for lunch, and we also visited the war memorial museum. On Sunday I went to Lotte Tower, which is a mall here in Seoul that spans five huge floors and an enormous underground complex. There's an aquarium, cinema, tons of restaurants, a big department store, and so much more. I spent way too much money lmao

So that's what I've been up to! My day might not seem exciting but it's been very relaxing for me. I know my schedule might seem very different from the normal 9-5 setup, but it's honestly perfect for me. It's a stark contrast to my old job, in which I was constantly rushing to get to work in the morning and working in a stressful environment that I didn't enjoy very much at all.

So far I love teaching, despite sometimes having mixed feelings about the school itself. But that's a post for another day hahaha

Peace out ✌️

Grace

#seoul #seoultravel #seoulkorea #south korea #expatlife #expatblogger #expat in korea #itaewon #gangnam district #jamsil #lotte world tower #hagwon teacher #home & lifestyle #tefl #teflteacher #teachers of tumblr #my life in korea #american abroad #living abroad

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semicoloncraft · 2 years

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365 DAYS IN EUROPE | POLAND

Today marks the day of officially living in the EU for one full year, currently residing in Poland, Kraków. I have traveled to 6 different European countries and I always knew from the age of 12 that I will immigrate or live in Europe. My reason for moving includes better job opportunities, cultural experiences and a higher standard of living. Europe is definitely an epicentre for expats.

The pandemic had me shifted with blunted emotions, spikes of anxiety and a desire to drastically change something about my life. If this sounds familiar, you might be one of the many people experiencing what they refer to as the “pandemic flux syndrome.” It’s admittedly not a clinical term, but it seems to capture something about the moment we’re living through.

My native country, South Africa, at the time, was under lockdown and the employment opportunities were awfully rare. I reframed my situation, applied for many jobs and finally landed one in Poland - a country I’m completely unfamiliar with. Moving to Europe was a big risk, a financial and emotional one undoubtedly. The nerves to venture into the unknown soil for the first time was quite overwhelming.

When I arrived in Poland in -15 degrees Celsius weather, the first question I asked myself was ‘ how am I going to survive in this weather?’. Coming from a heated scorching summer with tanned lines and luscious hair curls, the weather had me bleak. As the newcomer and foreign brown girl, I had to deal with a lot of changes simultaneously. The culture shock experiences still have me shook.

Below I have jotted down the pros, the cons, the peculiar side of living in Poland and everything in between whilst traveling around Europe.

THE PROS:

- The option to travel without a visa to other European countries is a big advantage, especially if you can just jump on a train. If you are not European, I would advise you to get a Schengen visa which allows you to travel to 22 European countries for one year. Side note, I left my heart in Prague and Vienna - two of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever seen.

- Knowledge expansion. You are constantly learning about various cultures, customs, histories, languages and dialects. Real-world life experiences can be or is the best teacher, and the knowledge gained within the process is priceless.

- Relatively low violent crime rates, and a comprehensive healthcare make Europe a pleasant and safe destination for most travelers.

- New relationships. You will always meet new people. Some of them might only last one week, or one day however some of them might actually last a lifetime. Being an extrovert will help you create a new social circle very quickly.

- Historical and cultural wealth. Think royal castles and cathedrals, iconic buildings, national museums, diverse art galleries, and green spaces.

- Polish people are very hospitable. Poles are determined not to leave anybody alone or hungry on Christmas and Easter. Hospitality is not about offering an excess of food and drinks to their guests. It’s about making guests feel part of the family. This is particularly true when it comes to those who find themselves in very unfamiliar surroundings.

- Poland proves to be one of the cleanest and most affordable countries in Europe.

- Public Universities are free in Poland for Europeans and studying in Europe does not just provide you with a world-class education but also prepares you for a global career.

- The international food chains and foreign restaurants in the bigger cities are ideal. If you’re a foodie such as myself and love to experiment with food then this is a big plus.

THE CONS:

- Poles have often been characterised as sombre, serious people. While this stereotype may still hold some truth for the older generation, it is generally unrepresentative of modern-day attitudes.

- The majority of the population in Poland smokes cigarettes – Potentially a bad habit or perhaps an European trend.

- The language barriers. If I had a penny for asking ‘do you or can you speak English’ I would be a rich one. Not many can speak the language fluently or accurately nor understand the expressions or witty comments. The misunderstandings or confused conversations are real.

- Most of the air pollution across Poland is the result of the country’s dependence on coal to power it’s homes and economy. Kraków and a few small villages have some of the most polluted air.

- As a solo expat it can get very lonely. You’ll always be in contact with friends and family but physical touch and communication is crucial. The loneliness can / may trigger you mentally and emotionally.

THE PECULIAR:

- One of the most common things foreigners tend to notice immediately after arrival is that Poles stare at you. They are probably thinking what you are doing in their country but won’t ask the question directly. I call it the curiosity stare.

- Poles don't have the culture to engage in small talk. Unless they’re your Polish friend, then they can’t stop talking.

- While most foreigners would never dream of risking a possibly lethal case of poisoning by eating something they found in a forest, mushroom picking is a Polish holiday craze - If I'm not receiving jars of jam, or homemade wine, I receive jars of mushrooms.

- Poles celebrate their names. Their name days (Imieniny) are widely celebrated and have traditionally been given greater importance than birthday celebrations. Printed in every local calendar, these name days represent the feast days of Catholic saints.

Living abroad has shaped me in many forms. I have adapted and I have adjusted. All of my experiences, the good and the bad have made me intellectually and emotionally strong. Being away from the people you love and the longterm relationships that you have built will never be an easy journey for adaptation. We are constantly evolving and living outside your comfort zones can only take you to new heights.

Ps. Life-changing moments really are the best ones.

#poland #europe #expatblogger #expatliving #expats #travelpoland #travelphotography #travelblogger #travel #prague #vienna

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