โLike Going To The Moonโ: The Worldโs Most Terrifying Ocean Crossing
โ Julia Buckley, CNN | Monday February 5, 2024
The Drake Passage is feared by travelers and sailors alike. Gerald Corsi/iStockphoto/Getty Images
Itโs the body of water that instils fear and inspires sailors in equal measure. Six hundred miles of open sea, and some of the roughest conditions on the planet โ with an equally inhospitable land of snow and ice awaiting you at the end of it.
โThe most dreaded bit of ocean on the globe โ and rightly so,โ Alfred Lansing wrote of explorer Ernest Shackletonโs 1916 voyage across it in a small lifeboat. It is, of course, the Drake Passage, connecting the southern tip of the South American continent with the northernmost point of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Once the preserve of explorers and sea dogs, the Drake is today a daunting challenge for an ever-increasing number of travelers to Antarctica โ and not just because it takes up to 48 hours to cross it. For many, being able to boast of surviving the โDrake shakeโ is part of the attraction of going to the โwhite continent.โ
But what causes those โShakes,โ which can see waves topping nearly 50 feet battering the ships? And how do sailors navigate the planetโs wildest waters?
For oceanographers, it turns out, the Drake is a fascinating place because of whatโs going on under the surface of those thrashing waters. And for ship captains, itโs a challenge that needs to be approached with a healthy dose of fear.
The Worldโs Strongest Storms
The Drake Passage can see waves of up to 49 feet. Mike Hill/Stone RF/Getty Images
At around 600 miles wide and up to 6,000 meters (nearly four miles) deep, the Drake is objectively a vast body of water. To us, that is. To the planet as a whole, less so.
The Antarctic Peninsula, where tourists visit, isnโt even Antarctica proper. Itโs a thinning peninsula, rotating northwards from the vast continent of Antarctica, and reaching towards the southern tip of South America โ the two pointing towards each other, a bit like a tectonic version of Michelangeloโs โCreation of Adamโ in the Sistine Chapel.
That creates a pinch point effect, with the water being squeezed between the two land masses โ the ocean is surging through the gap between the continents.
โItโs the only place in the world where those winds can push all around the globe without hitting land โ and land tends to dampen storms,โ says oceanographer Alexander Brearley, head of open oceans at the British Antarctic Survey.
Winds tend to blow west to east, he says โ and the latitudes of 40 to 60 are notorious for strong winds. Hence their nicknames of the โroaring forties,โ โfurious fiftiesโ and โscreaming sixtiesโ (Antarctica officially starts at 60 degrees).
But winds are slowed by landmass โ which is why Atlantic storms tend to smash into Ireland and the UK (as they did, causing havoc, with Storm Isha in January buffeting planes to entirely different countries) and then weaken as they continue east to the European continent.
With no land to slow them down at the Drakeโs latitude anywhere on the planet, winds can hurtle around the globe, gathering pace โ and smashing into ships.
โIn the middle of the Drake Passage the winds may have blown over thousands of kilometers to where you are,โ says Brearley. โKinetic energy is converted from wind into waves, and builds up storm waves.โ Those can reach up to 15 meters, or 49 feet, he says. Although before you get too alarmed, know that the mean wave height on the Drake is rather less โ four to five meters, or 13-16 feet. Thatโs still double what youโll find in the Atlantic, by way of comparison.
And itโs not just the winds making the waters rough โ the Drake is basically one big surge of water.
โThe Southern Ocean is very stormy in general [but] in the Drake youโre really squeezing [the water] between the Antarctic and the southern hemisphere,โ he adds. โThat intensifies the storms as they come through.โ He calls it a โfunneling effect.โ
Then thereโs the speed at which the water is thrashing through. The Drake is part of the most voluminous ocean current in the world, with up to 5,300 million cubic feet flowing per second. Squeezed into the narrow passage, the current increases, traveling west to east. Brearley says that at surface level, that current is less perceptible โ just a couple of knots โ so you wonโt really sense it onboard. โBut it does mean youโll travel a bit more slowly,โ he says.
For oceanographers, he says, the Drake is โa fascinating place.โ
Itโs home to what he calls โunderwater mountains๏ฟฝ๏ฟฝ๏ฟฝ below the surface โ and the enormous current squeezing through the (relatively) narrow passage causes waves to break against them underwater. These โinternal waves,โ as he calls them, create vortices which bring colder water from the depths of the ocean higher up โ important for the planetโs climate.
โItโs not just turbulent at the surface, though obviously thatโs what you feel the most โ but itโs actually turbulent all the way through the water column,โ says Brearley, who regularly crosses the Drake on a research ship. Does he get scared? โI donโt think Iโve ever been really fearful, but it can be very unpleasant in terms of how rough it is,โ he says candidly.
Fear Breeds Fear
In 2010, tourist ship Clelia II declared an emergency after suffering engine failure in the Drake. Fiona Stewart, Garett McIntosh/AP
One other key thing that makes the Drake so scary: our fear of the Drake itself.
Brearley points out that until the Panama Canal opened in 1914, ships going from Europe to the west coast of the Americas had to dip round Cape Horn โ the southern tip of South America โ and then trundle up the Pacific coast.
โLetโs say you were shipping goods from western Europe to California. You either had to offload them in New York and do the journey across the US, or you had to go all the way around,โ he says. It wasnโt just large cargo ships, either; passenger ships made the same route.
Thereโs even a monument at the tip of Cape Horn, in memorial of the more than 10,000 sailors who are believed to have died traveling through.
โThe routes between the south of South Africa and Australia, or Australia or New Zealand to Antarctica, donโt really lie on any major shipping routes,โ says Brearley. โThe reason itโs been so feared over the centuries is because the Drake is where ships really have to go. Other parts [of the Southern Ocean] can be avoided.โ
โWe Donโt Gambleโ
Captain Stanislas Devorsine regularly crosses the Drake. Sue Flood/Ponant Photo Ambassador
Navigating the Drake is an extremely complex task that demands humility and a side of fear, says Captain Stanislas Devorsine, one of three captains of Le Commandant Charcot, a polar vessel of adventure cruise company Ponant.
โYou have to have a healthy fear,โ he says of the Drake. โItโs something that keeps you focused, alert, sensitive to the ship and the weather. You need to be aware that it can be dangerous โ that itโs never routine.โ
Devorsine made his Drake debut as a captain over 20 years ago, sailing an icebreaker full of scientists over to Antarctica for a research stint.
โWe had very, very rough seas โ more than 20 meter [66 feet] swells,โ he says. โIt was very windy, very rough.โ Not that Ponantโs clients face anything like that. Devorsine is quick to point out that the comfort levels for a research ship โ and the conditions it will sail in โ are very different from those for a cruise.
โWe are extremely cautious โ the ocean is stronger than us,โ he says. โWeโre not able to go in terrible weather. We go in rough seas but always with a big safety margin. Weโre not gambling.โ
Even with that extra safety margin, though, he admits that crossing the Drake can be a hairy experience. โIt can be very rough and very dangerous, so we take special care,โ he says.
โWe have to choose the best time to cross the Drake. We have to adapt our course โ sometimes we donโt head in our final direction, we alter the course to have a better angle with the waves. We might slow down to leave a low pressure path ahead, or speed up to pass one before it arrives.โ
The โDrake Shakeโ and Broken Plates
Captains check the weather up to six times a day before departure to ensure a safe crossing. Jamie Lafferty
Of course, every time you get on a ship โ whether itโs a simple ferry ride or a fancy cruise โ the crew will already have meticulously planned the journey, checking everything from the weather to the tides and currents. But planning for a crossing of the Drake is on a whole new level.
Weather forecasting has improved in the two decades since Devorsineโs first ride, he says โ and these days crew start planning the voyage while passengers are making their way to South America from all over the globe.
Sometimes they leave late; sometimes they head back early, to beat bad weather. Devorsine โ who makes the return journey about six to eight times per year โ estimates that the unusually calm โDrake lakeโ effect happens once in every 10 crossings, with particularly rough conditions (that โDrake shakeโ) once or twice in every 10 journeys.
Of course, he knows whatโs in store long before the passengers reach the ship.
โWe look ahead to have the best option to cross. Normally I look at the weather 10 days or a week before, just to have an idea of what it could be,โ he says.
โThen I check the forecast once per day, then two or three days before departure I start looking at it twice per day. If itโs going to be a challenging passage you look every six hours. If you have to adjust your departure time, then you look at it very closely to be very accurate.โ
His safety margin means that heโs calculating a route that will get you across not just alive, but also as comfortably as possible. Hearing an anecdote about broken crockery and furniture on another operator, he sighs, โThatโs a bit too far for me.โ
โBefore you have any issue with a storm, you have to keep a comfortable ship,โ he says. The safety margin is to be sure that the guests will enjoy being in Antarctica, and that we wonโt turn around because we have a problemโฆ like injured people.โ
In extreme conditions, he orders extra weather advice from Ponant HQ, but if youโre imagining the staff on the bridge desperately radioing for advice as waves batter the ship, think again.
โIt would never happen to be in the middle of the Drake with bad conditions, needing assistance from headquarters because it would mean we didnโt have any safety margin before departure. When we cross and itโs going to be challenging, we have a big safety margin and the ship is not at all in danger.โ
They are in contact with headquarters with high level satellite antennae throughout the crossing, with both satellite and radio backup if needed โ Devorsine says he canโt imagine ever losing contact, whatever the weather.
Antarctica cruise: The last frontier for a big at-last luxury adventure
A Dangerous Thrill
Aurora Expeditions' Greg Mortimer ship has a patented bow to make a Drake crossing more stable. Tyson Mayr/Aurora Expeditions
Devorsine, who now spends 90% of his time sailing in polar waters, feels at home on the Drake. โWhen I was a little child, I read books about the maritime adventures of sailors and polar heroes,โ he says. โI was attracted by tough things โ I like challenges. This is why I followed the path to be able to sail in these areas.โ
His first experience of the area was doing a โrace around the worldโ in a sailboat as a youngster, heading south from his native France and rounding Cape Horn.
โIt was my dream because itโs difficult, dangerous and challenging,โ he says.
Heโs not the only one. Some guests are drawn to Antarctica trips because of the tough journey. โI guess [they] are attracted by these areas [of the Southern Ocean] because itโs wild, it can be rough, and itโs a unique experience to go there,โ he says.
Not everoneโs a thrill-seeker though. As managing director of Mundy Adventures, an adventure travel agency, Edwina Lonsdale is dealing with a clientele already used to discomfort โ yet she says crossing the Drake is a โconversation topicโ during booking.
โitโs something we would raise to make sure people are completely aware of what theyโre buying,โ she says. โ[Going to Antarctica] is a huge investment โ you need to talk through every aspect and make sure nothingโs an absolute no.โ
Lonsdale advises that passengers nervous of feeling sick should choose their ship carefully. In the past, vessels heading to Antarctica tended to be uncomfortable metal boxes built to take a heavy beating. But in recent years, companies have introduced more technically advanced vessels: like Le Commandant Charcot, which was the worldโs first passenger vessel with a Polar Class 2 hull โ meaning it can go deeper and further into the ice in polar regions โ when it debuted in 2021.
Two of Aurora Expeditionsโ ships, the Greg Mortimer and Sylvia Earle, use a patented inverted bow, designed to slide gently through the waves, reducing impact and vibration and improving stability, rather than โpunchingโ through the water as a regular bow shape does, which makes the bow rock up and down.
Lonsdale says that the fancier the vessel and the offerings onboard, the more distractions youโll have if bad weather hits. Newer boats often have more spacious rooms and bigger windows so that you can watch the horizon, which helps to lessen seasickness. If the budget allows, she says, book a suite โ you wonโt just get more space, youโll (likely) have floor-to-ceiling windows, too.
But a word of advice โ she recommends a careful selection not just of the right operator for you, but of the ship itself.
โJust because a company has a fleet with a very modern ship doesnโt mean the whole fleet will be like that,โ she says.
โAct Before You Start Spewingโ
At Cape Horn there's a monument marking the 10,000 sailors thought to have died navigating the Drake. DreamPictures/Photodisc/Getty Images
So youโve conquered your fears, booked your ticket and youโre about to set sail. Bad news: the captain is predicting the Drake shake. What to do?
Hopefully youโve come prepared. Most ships have ginger candies on offer during bad weather, but bring your own, as well as any anti-seasickness medication you want to take. Some passengers swear by acupressure โseedsโ: tiny spikes, attached to your ears with a sticking plaster, designed to stimulate acupuncture points. Some ships offer acupuncture onboard; alternatively you can get it done beforehand, since the seeds last for some time.
Devorsineโs top tips are to keep your eyes on the horizon, hold onto the handrail when walking around, be careful around doors, and โdonโt jump out of bed.โ
Jamie Lafferty, a photographer who leads excursions on Antarctic cruises, says that of his 30-odd crossings, โIโve had one where it felt like I was going to fall out of bed and that was the second time, way back in 2010 when there was a lot more guesswork involved. Crossing the Drake Passage is much, much more benign than it used to be thanks to the accuracy of modern forecasting models and stabilizers on more modern cruise ships. This doesnโt mean itโll be smooth, but itโs vastly less chaotic and unpredictable than it used to be.โ
His top tip? โTake seasickness medication before heading out into open sea โ once you start spewing, tablets arenโt going to be any use.โ
Warren Cairns, senior researcher at the Institute of Polar Sciences of the National Research Council of Italy, has a bit of extra help.
โThe only thing that works for me is going to the shipโs medic for a scopolamine patch,โ he says. โItโs so rough, normal seasickness pills are just to get me to the infirmary.โ Although he has it worse than the average tourist โ on trips to Antarctica, their research ships have to pause for hours to take samples. โThe waves come from all sorts of directions as the thrusters keep it in place,โ he says. โWhen youโre underway itโs a much more regular motion.โ
Lonsdale says itโs important not to fight it if you feel ill: โJust go to bed.โ But equally, she says, donโt expect it: โIt may be calm. You may not feel ill.โ
People suffer differently from seasickness she says. โThe Pacific has very long, slow swells, Channel crossings [between the UK and France] have quite a bouncy experience. Lots of people say crossing the Drake in very rough weather is uneven enough to not make them ill at all.โ On that plate-smashing crossing, for example, this reporter โ who was watching 40-foot waves from the observation deck โ never got sick.
Remember that however it feels, youโre safe. โThereโs an extraordinary level of safety in the build of those ships doing this,โ says Lonsdale. Add in the safety margins that the likes of Devorsine build in, and youโre in uncomfortable, but not dangerous, territory.
And if all else fails, remember why youโre there.
โThe motivation and excitement to discover those latitudes is very important to fight the seasickness,โ says Devorsine. Lonsdale agrees.
โIf you were going to the moon, youโd expect the journey to be uncomfortable but itโd be worth it,โ she says. โYou just have to think, โThis is what I need to get from one world to another.โโ
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๐ฆVenus in scorpio or venus in 8th house-I really like their intensity, how deeply they feel and give love. With them, you can always feel that they are by your side and that you are the only one for them. They always have a couple of people to give love to and that's it. They really invest 100% in the relationship with the person. The love they give is really something special.
๐Cancer moon -I love the warm feeling you get from them. They always give me home vibes. They really know how to understand you emotionally and care about you. They are always there for you emotionally.
๐Sagittarius rising -I like how open they are and always ready to have fun. At the same time very funny people which always make you smile. I also like how outwardly they like to show their appearance and don't care what others think .Always have a unique style and personality. I like how they always have their own opinion.
โค๏ธโ๐ฅScorpio mars- I love how obsessed they can be with you, if they like you they will really be driven for you and relationship with you. They really make sacrifices for the relationship they are in. I love their tenacity and what they will do just to make something work out - admirable. They will literally do anything to make the relationship work My boyfriend definitely have to have this placement.
Pluto sex Venus -Their love is always so special and strong. You will always remember how much they loved you. Indescribable.
Saturn sex Venus-These people will always have a serious approach to love, which means that they will always take any relationship they have seriously.
๐Neptune in 3rd house/ Pisces- I love their dreamy voice and the compassion they have. Their words literally put you at ease. And I like that they think in a dreamy way.
๐ฅฐLibra moon- always make a homely atmosphere, even when you talk to them they will never make the situation awkward or uncomfortable. And they always understand the feelings of others and try to understand the people around them and really put relationships first.
โจSun in 9th house- these people can really open your eyes and show you a new way of life. Many times they also motivate other people and also are optimistic. They are full of inspiration and life and have a lot of wisdom in them.
โฅ๏ธMercury in Scorpio-their mentality is intense, passionate, deep. I like their directness and how they don't embellish words but say them as they are. They know how to empathize with things and are good listeners. They will always be on your side when something happens. Their words are often harsh but real.
๐Capricorn rising- serious approach to love, no matter what they will always respect the person and be respectful to them. I like about them how they look so intimidating, but inside they are chill and never judge. They are the type of people who will never mind other peopleโs bussines.
๐ฆScorpio rising-I like that mystery about them. And how they trust only those who really mean something to them. They will not just open up to all people and show their side, but only to those who are worthy of it. They are very good listeners. They keep your secrets forever. Capricorns are also very similar to this.
โ๏ธ12th house sun, venus- I like their dreamlike approach to the world and how quickly they grasp the subconscious and things around it. With them you feel like you can just dream 24/7. They really understand the dream approach and never judge you if you act childish. With them you can be a child again. I also like how well they can present subconscious to you.
- Comment if you want an opinion on my not so popular placementsโ๏ธ
IT'S A PURE DEAD GIVE-AWAY THAT YOU'RE SCOTTISH IF :-
1. You consider scattered showers with outbreaks of sunshine ๐ as good weather.
2. The only sausage you like is square.
3. You were forced to do Scottish country dancing ๐บ๐ป
every year at secondary school.
4. You have a wide vocabulary of Scottish words such as numpty, aye, aye right, auldyin, baltic...
5. You destroyed your teeth when you were young using Buchanan's toffee, Wham bars, Penny Dainties, MB Bars, Cola Cubes etc
6. You have an enormous feeling of dread whenever Scotland play a 'numpty' team like the Faroe Islands.
7. You happily engage in a conversation about the weather with someone you've never met before.
8. Even if you normally hate the Proclaimers, Runrig, Caledonia , Deacon Blue and Big Country, you still love it when you're in a club abroad and they play something Scottish.
9. You used to watch Glen Michael's Cavalcade on a Sunday afternoon with his side kick Lamp Paladin.
10. You got Oor Wullie and The Broons annuals at Xmas.
11. You can tell where another Scot is from by their accent - "Awright, pal, gonnae gies a wee swatch oa yur Sun ? Cheers, magic pal." Or "Fit ya bin up tae ? Fair few quines in the nicht, eh ?", etc
12. You see cops and hear someone shout 'Errapolis'.
13. You have participated in or watched people having a 'square go'.
14. You know that when someone asks you what school you went to they only want to know if you are catholic or protestant.
15. You have eaten lots and lots of random Scottish food like mince 'n tatties, Tunnock's Caramel Logs, oat cakes, haggis, Cullen skink, Lees Macaroon Bars, etc.
16. A jakey has asked you for money.
17. You think nothing of waiting expectantly for your 1p change from a shop keeper.
18. You know the right response to 'Ye dancing ?' is 'Y'askin?' followed by 'Ahm askin' and finally 'Then ahm dancin'. ๐
19. Whenever you see sawdust it reminds you of pools of vomit as that's what the jannies used to chuck on it at school.
20. You lose all respect for a groom ๐คต who doesn't wear a kilt.
21. You don't do ๐ shopping ... you 'go the messages'.
22. You're sitting on the train ๐ or bus and a ๐ต drunk man sits next to you telling you a joke - and asking 'Ahm no annoying ye ahm a?' and you respond 'Naw, not at a', yer fine. This is ma stoap, but'. ๐
23. You can have an entire phone ๐ conversation using only the words 'awright', 'aye' and 'naw'.
24. You have experienced peer pressure to have an alcoholic drink ๐ท when out - regardless of the circumstances.
25. You know that ye cannae fling yer pieces ๐ oot a 20 storey flat, and that seven hundred hungry weans'll testify tae that. Furthermore you're sure that if it's butter, ๐ง cheese or jeely, or if the breid is plain or pan, the odds against it reaching earth are 99 tae wan.
26. You know that going to a party ๐ฅณ at a friend's house involves bringing your own drink.
27. Your holiday abroad is ruined if you hear there is a heatwave in Scotland ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ while you're away.
28. Your national team goes 2-0 up again the Czechs in a qualifier in Prague and your mate says we'll end up losing 3-2 here and you think "Probably". โฝ๏ธ
29. You can properly pronounce McConnochie, Ecclefechan, Milngavie, and Auchtermuchty.
30. Your favourite pizza is deep fried and battered from the chippy.
31. You're used to 4 ๐จ โ๏ธ โ๏ธ โ๏ธ seasons in one day.
32. You can't pass a chip shop or kebab shop, without drooling, when your ๐ฅด drunk.
33. You can fall about ๐ต drunk without spilling your drink.
34. You measure distance in minutes.
35. You can understand Rab C Nesbitt and know characters just like them in your own family.
36. You go to Saltcoats because you think it's like being at the ocean.
๐
37. You can make a whole sentence out of just swear words.
38. You know what haggis is made with and still eat it.
39. Somebody you know used a football ๐ฅ schedule to plan their ๐ day date.
40. You've been at a ๐ฐ ๐ฉ wedding where the footie results were read out.
41. You aren't surprised to find curries, pizzas ๐ kebabs, Irn Bru, nappies and fags all for sale in one shop.
42. Your seaside holiday home has Calor โฝ๏ธ gas under it.
43. You know that Irn Bru is an infallible hangover ๐ต cure.
44. You understand all the above and are going to send it to your pals.
45. and, finally, you are 100 per cent Scottish if you have ever used these terms - "How's it hingin'?", "clatty", "boggin", "cludgie", "dreich", "bampot", and "dubble nugget"..
Apollo: Just look at them, my neurodivergent family info dumping at each other! I love them so much!!!๐
Hermes, narrating: He then proceeded to info dump on me about how much he loves listening to his family info dump on him and itโs a love language, you know?
Give me ur opinion on these random things if you wanna ๐ง๐ผโโ๏ธ
1โ favorite seasons RANKED
2โ top and least fav holiday
3โ top song atm
4โ the last thing you did that makes you laugh just thinking about it
5โ ur fav Sturniolo quote (or top ones)
Thank you ๐งโ๐ณ
YESSSS I LOVE SHIT LIKE THIS SEND ME MORE GUYS
for seasons its gotta be
summer โ๏ธ๐๐
fall ๐๐๐งธ
spring ๐ทโ๏ธ๐ธ
winter โ๏ธโ๏ธโท๏ธ
fav holiday is christmas and least fav is probably thanksgiving
current top song is either bags by clairo, why by dominic fike, or we cant be friends by ariana grande
last thing i did that makes me laugh is when i fell UP THE STAIRS IN A PUBLIC PLACE. i was so embarrassed that i deadass just laid there for a few seconds in the middle of the staircase while people walked around me
fav sturniolo quotes (in order)
โcolby jack!!! ๐คช๐คโ (just kidding its actuallyโฆ) โthank god itโs not fan truth ๐๐ผ๐โ
โiโll fucking knock your teeth to you fucking throat, bitch ๐ค ๐คโ
โcute headband, borrow it from your grandma? ๐ต๐ป๐โโ๏ธโ
โwhy do IIIII CARE SO MUCH? ๐๐ซตโ
โMATT THEY CAN FLYโ๏ธ๐ฆ โ
it took me 2 FUCKING HOURS to decided on my quotes. its hard to remember all the best things especially if i havenโt seen those clips in a while so this probably isnโt even fully accurate, but i do love these quotes
OK THANK YOU PLEASE SEND ME MORE ASKS LIKE THIS I LOVE THIS
First off I want to thank you all so much for getting me here! this is my thank you to you for being so supportive and kind to me throughout the year Iโve been on here!
Intro post
Emails I canโt send ๐: Iโll write you a personalised letter
Bejewled ๐: Iโll make a moodboard of you/your blog
the story of us ๐ฐ๏ธ: Iโll assign you a fictional character x
lavender haze ๐ฎ: Iโll assign you a song/album
Pretty isnโt pretty ๐: Iโll draw a picture of what I think you look like x
Midnight rain โ๏ธ: Iโll make a moodboard of whatever you like
a crumpled up piece of paper ๐: a hc/short story of whatever you like (must be one of the fandoms I follow, see in intro post x)
The alternative ๐ธ: Iโll give you three things I associate you with and why
the good witch ๐: vent, tell me a secret or just talk about anything on anon, or it Doesnโt have to be on anon!
The event will end on jan 20th 2024 and feel free to ask for as many that you want xx luv all of you sooo much, have fun!