Sign Off
Torrent Company: *gathered in front of a window, some of them holding binoculars while others clamor around to listen*
Tup: *curious, steps up beside Jesse and Hardcase* What’s going on?
Hardcase: *grins* The 212th’s venator is orbiting right next to ours. *snatches the binoculars from Jesse, ignoring his annoyed shout, and hands them to Tup* Same level viewing port.
Tup: *peeks in through one scope of the binoculars while Dogma presses in to look as well*
Ghost Company: *a large group of them standing at a window like Torrent, one of them at the center quickly signing with his hands*
Jesse: *bouncing impatiently on his toes* Come on, I wanna see!
Tup: *hands the binoculars back, still confused* What are they doing?
Hardcase: We — *gestures to the center of their group, where Fives is signing back in response* — are having a Sign Off.
Dogma: *frowns* What’s a Sign Off?
Jesse: Shh! I’m trying to translate here.
Hardcase: *rolls his eyes, leans closer to Tup and Dogma, in a low-ish whisper* It’s a little competition where Vode have a battle of wits using ARC sign. We do it when we have some downtime while in orbit.
Tup: Oh! What are they saying now?
Jesse: *grunts in frustration* Damn kid’s signing too fast for me to read.
Fives: *on his turn, quickly fires off gestures using his hands and arms*
Jesse: *groans* Kriff, now I’m lost.
Hardcase: Damn, I thought you were studying ARC sign, Jess.
Jesse: *shoots him a glare* I am.
Dogma: He just signed, “better change that mohawk before a bird mistakes it for a mating display.” *blinks* That doesn’t sound witty.
Hardcase: Osik, we’re getting personal now. Ha!
Jesse: Wait— *looks at Dogma* You know ARC sign?
Dogma: *blushes, suddenly embarrassed and fiddling with his fingers* Y-yes…
Jesse: Kriff, kid, then what am I here for? *hands him the binoculars* Switch places with me.
Dogma: *wide eyed, looks at Tup*
Tup: *smiles reassuringly at him and nods*
Dogma: *still hesitant, looks back at Jesse and Hardcase* Alright.
Hardcase: Yes! Front and center, vod’ika.
Dogma: *takes the binoculars and moves closer to the window. Looks across the open space as the vod from Ghost starts his response. Watches closely and translates* “At least I don’t look like a wanna-be lead singer.”
Jesse: *roars laughing, the others joining him or “ooh”—ing in response.
Fives: *bright red all over his face, has a thousand yard stare for a second before shaking it off and making the sign for yielding*
Hardcase: Oh shit! *laughs, grinning* Ghost takes this round. *claps Dogma on the shoulder, making him jump* We’ll call you for the next one. Sound good?
Dogma: *blinks, still blushing and still a little unsure. Shares another look with Tup before nodding, smiling shyly* Yeah.
Hardcase: Awesome! Keep the scopes.
Jesse: Hey! Those are my—
Hardcase: *ignores him and bumps his arm* Hey, Fives, how’s your pride, vod? You good?
Tup: *stands next to Dogma, chuckling at their siblings*
Dogma: *awkwardly holding the scopes* I don’t think I understand this game, yet.
Tup: *snorts and hides his face with his hands, shaking from holding back laughter*
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TOTK Light Dragon Crochet Pattern
It's been a while! Here's a crochet pattern for the Light Dragon from Tears of the Kingdom. I'll post it on deviant art shortly.
Full pattern below cut. If this ends up on P*nterest, I'm going to be very disappointed with one of you.
Stitches used (abbreviations): chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), treble crochet (tr), increase (inc), decrease (dec)
This pattern is complicated – partially because I haven’t written a pattern for anything in a number of years, partially because the Light Dragon has a lot of weird parts. There’s chaining and slip stitching into the chains to make antlers, front loop and back loop work, flattening and working through two halves of a round simultaneously, and a lot of positioning.
I typically work in the round, without joining; if you would like to join, just add a sl st and a ch 1 to the end or start of each row in the round. It may make things twist less.
Head (1 in light brown)
1: ch 3, sc 2 in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 in last chain, turn work (so that you’re working on the far side of the chain), sc (6)
2: sc, inc twice, sc, inc twice (10)
3-6: sc around
7: in, sc around (11)
8: sc 5, IN BACK LOOP ONLY inc, in BOTH LOOPS, sc 5 (12) (the empty loop will be used with the white head marking)
9: sc around (12)
10: sc 3, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 2 (14)
11: sc 13, inc (15)
12: sc 7, inc, sc 7 (16)
13: sc 4, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (18)
14: sc 8, inc, sc 8, inc (20)
15-18: sc around (20)
19: sc 3, dec around (16)
20: sc 2, dec around (12) DO NOT F/O, continue to body
Begin stuffing here, and continue stuffing as you go
Begin Body
21: sc 6 in brown, join cream, in BACK LOOPS ONLY, sc 6 in cream (12)
22- 25: sc 6 in brown, sc 6 in cream (12)
26: sc 1 cream, sc 4 brown, sc 7 cream (12)
Rep rows 22-26 1 time
32-: rep row 26 (12)
Continue repeating row 26 until you’re happy with the dragon’s body length; mine was a total of 89 rounds. Then, continue with the tail
90: sc 1 cream, sc 4 brown, in cream sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc, sc (14)
91-96: Sc 1 cream, sc 4 brown, sc 9 brown (14)
97: sc 1 cream, sc 4 brown, in cream sc 2, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 1 (12)
98: sc 1 cream, sc 4 brown, in cream sc 1, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 1 (10)
99: sc 1 cream, sc 4 brown, in cream sc 1, dec twice (8)
100: sc 1 cream, in brown dec twice, in cream dec twice (moving the stitch marker to after the decrease) (4)
F/O, make sure everything’s stuffed and weave in ends
White Head Marking (One in cream)
On one end of the unworked loops from Head/Body round 21, attach cream
1: inc, sc 4 inc, ch 1 and turn (8)
2: inc, sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc, ch 1 and turn (11)
3: inc, sc 4, inc, sc 4, inc, DO NOT ch 1 or turn (yet) (14)
4: ch 4, turn, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next two chs, skip first sc in the row (last worked sc from row 3), sc in 2nd sc, sc one more, skip next sc, sc in the stitch next to it (you want the hole, it’s for antlers), sc 4 more, ch 1, turn
4.1-2: sc 4 across, ch 1 and turn (4)
4.3: sc, dec, sc, ch 1 and turn (3)
4.4-5: sc across, ch 1 and turn (3)
4.6: sc, dec, ch 1 and turn (2)
4.7 dec, sl st into the open loop from Head row 8, sl st into the side of the head marking until you get back to row 4, cont row 4
4 cont: skip the first sc in row 4 (this is the other antler’s space), sc 4, ch 1, turn, sc 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, join into a sc in row 4
F/O, leaving a long tail
Spike numbers depend on how long your dragon is; her back spikes are arranged in a large-med-small-med-large pattern, starting with two large spikes and ending with an extra seven large spikes on the tail (two on top, four on the sides, and one of the very end). I would recommend making two large, two medium, and one small spike to start, and laying them out to see how many repetitions of that pattern that you can fit on the dragon, and how many spikes you need. I fit three repetitions, and those amounts are reflected below.
Large Spikes (in light blue) (I made 11)
1: sc 4 in mc (4)
2: inc, sc around (6)
3: inc, sc 2 around (8)
4: inc, sc 3 around (10)
5: inc, sc 4 around (12)
F/O, leaving a long tail
Medium Spikes (in light blue) (I made 6)
1: sc 4 in mc (4)
2: inc, sc around (6)
3: inc, sc 2 around (8)
4: inc, sc 3 around (10)
F/O, leaving a long tail
Small Spikes (in light blue) (I made 3)
1: sc 4 in mc (4)
2: inc, sc around (6)
3: inc, sc 2 around (8)
F/O, leaving a long tail
Under-spike gold
I found this easier to follow by working conceptually. You are making circles for each spike to sit on top of. To start, count your spikes, and chain: 6 for each large spike; 5 for each medium spike; and 4 for each small spike. (I had ch 80, but I needed ch 83, see below). Add 2 chains at the end. Those last two chains count as Tr, not as chains to skip/work into. You’ll end up working on either side of the starting chain, mirroring what you do on one side on the other.
For large spikes, skip 2 chs, Tr 5 in 3rd ch, skip 2 chs, sl st in 3rd ch
For medium spikes, skip 2 chs, dc 5 into 3rd ch, skip 1 ch, sl st in 2nd ch
For small spikes, skip 1 ch, dc 5 into 2nd ch, skip 1 ch, sl st in 2nd ch.
Combine the above to match how you want your spikes to sit on your dragon; when you get to the end of the chain, turn your work so that you’re working back up the chain, and mirror your stitches. You should have the correct number of circles, and be able to sl st into the first ch. I had to put Tr 10 into the first ch, since I did not have enough circles, but the ultimate placement worked out.
For the side spikes on the tail, do the following twice: Ch 10, tr 5 in 4th ch from hook, skip 2 chs, tr 10 in last ch, skip 2 sts, tr 5 in the next st (the same st as the initial tr 5), sl st to the first tr, F/O with a long tail. Sew to body, on the sides of the main tail under-gold.
I had to make one circle for the final spike on the tail, by ch 6, tr 5 in 3rd ch from hook, skip 2 chs, sl st into last ch, skip 2 sts on other side of work, tr 5 into next ch (again, where the initial tr 5 is, you’re making a circle), sl st onto first tr and F/O. A magic circle of 6, increasing around to 12, would probably work just as well; so would making the initial golden circles longer to accommodate this spike. I simply lost my spike and didn’t realize it until after I had placed everything.
Hair (make 1 in gold)
1: ch 21, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (20)
2: ch 4, sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sc, in next ch, hdc in last ch, skip a st of row 1, sl st into front loop of next sc. Repeat across the row. Ch 1 and turn at end. (10 spikes)
3: Working in back loops only, sc across, ch 1 and turn (20 sc)
4-7: repeat rows 2-3 twice
F/O, leaving a long tail
Horns (make 2, in cream and turquoise)
In cream:
1: ch 2, sc 4 into 2nd ch from hook (4)
2: sc around (4)
F/O, and turn so that the right side is out. Leave enough tail to sew onto the head.
Using Turquoise, sl st into the cream starting ch. The horns are made from one long chain with different spikes; after slip stitching a new ‘spike’, you’ll continue slip stitching into the original chain.
Ch 12, starting in 2nd ch, sl st 4, ch 4, starting in 2nd ch sl st 6, ch 5, starting in 2nd ch sl st 3, ch 2, starting in 2nd ch sl st 5, ch 3, starting in 2nd ch sl st 4 and F/O (you should have worked all chs)
‘Bangs’(make 1 in gold)
1: ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (6)
2: ch 4, sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sc, in next ch, hdc in last ch, skip a st of row 1, sl st into front loop of next sc. Repeat across the row. Ch 1 and turn at end. (3 spikes)
3: Working in back loops only, sc, dec, dec, sc, turn (4 sc)
4: rep row 2 (2 spikes)
5: in back loops only, dec twice (2)
6: rep row 2 (1 spike)
F/O, leaving a long tail
Sew this to the forehead of the dragon, directly between the horns – the 6th row points out, the 1st row attaches to the hair
Legs (make 6 in dark blue, 3 left and 3 right):
1: ch 6, join in first ch, sc around (6)
2-7: sc around (6) make sure that you’re working right side out!
8: in front loops only, inc around (12)
9- 10: sc around (12)
Flatten the previous row; you will sc through two stitches at once, closing the opening as you make fingers
RIGHT HAND 11: ch 6, starting in 2nd ch, sl st 5, sc through parallel sts in row 10 twice, *ch 9, starting in 2nd ch, sl st 8, then sc into two parallel stitches in row 10* repeat 3 more times, sl st through the last two parallel scs
LEFT HAND 11: *ch 9, starting in 2nd ch, sl st 8, sc through parallel sts in row 10* repeat 3 more times, sc through parallel sts in row 10 once more, ch 6, starting in 2nd ch sl st 5, sl st through the last two parallel scs.
F/O, leaving the leg unstuffed. You do not need a long tail, just enough to tie off and weave in.
Hips/Shoulders/Haunches (make 6 in cream)
You’ll be working directly into the legs, from their starting chain, and crocheting in the opposite direction. Make sure that the work faces out. Try to plan where you start to be where you want the shoulder to be – in row 6, you’ll begin working only half of the stitches, and they’ll be the stitches in front of your starting position.
1: make a slip st, and join into the starting chain for the legs. Inc around (12)
2: sc, inc around (18)
3-5: sc around (18)
6: sc 9, ch 1 and turn (leaving other sts unworked) (9)
7: sc 6, dec, F/O
F/O, leaving a long tail. Stuff the haunch, leaving the arm/hand unstuffed.
Ears: (make 2)
Inner Ear (brown)
1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last ch, ch 1 and turn (2)
2-4: sc across, ch 1 and turn (2)
5: dec, ch 1 and turn (1)
6: sc, F/O (1) your tail can be short, it won’t be used to fasten anything. I hid mine between ear layers.
Outer Ear (cream)
1: leaving a long tail, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch 1 and turn (3)
2-4: sc across, ch 1 and turn (3)
5: dec, sc, ch 1 and turn (2)
6: dec, ch 1 and turn (1)
7: sc, ch 1, and turn the work so that you’re working on the edge of the work. Sc into the edge of row 7. Lay an inner ear over the outer ear, and sc into both pieces, along the edge. You’re joining the ear parts together. F/O, leaving a long tail to sew the bottom of the inner ear onto the outer ear. For one of the ears, you’ll have to work backwards or upside down if you don’t want two left ears – or you can just sew both inner ears to the outer ears.
Assembly: Stitch the white head marking to the head. I pinned on the hair, and attached the spikes and under-spike gold. To make this easier, I stuffed and attached each spike onto the under-spike gold first, and then pinned and sewed the gold onto the back (be careful to keep it centered). Then I attached the tail spikes, and stitched down the hair. I added the horns, ears, and bangs, and finally pinned all of the legs. I was careful to keep the legs attached only to the cream, not the brown belly, but that was just a stylistic choice that I made. Finally, you can make and attach the eyes; I used some felt and markers, though I’m not overly pleased with the effect.
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