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reasonsforhope · 4 months

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It’s an open secret in fashion. Unsold inventory goes to the incinerator; excess handbags are slashed so they can’t be resold; perfectly usable products are sent to the landfill to avoid discounts and flash sales. The European Union wants to put an end to these unsustainable practices. On Monday, [December 4, 2023], it banned the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear.

“It is time to end the model of ‘take, make, dispose’ that is so harmful to our planet, our health and our economy,” MEP Alessandra Moretti said in a statement. “Banning the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear will contribute to a shift in the way fast fashion manufacturers produce their goods.”

This comes as part of a broader push to tighten sustainable fashion legislation, with new policies around ecodesign, greenwashing and textile waste phasing in over the next few years. The ban on destroying unsold goods will be among the longer lead times: large businesses have two years to comply, and SMEs have been granted up to six years. It’s not yet clear on whether the ban applies to companies headquartered in the EU, or any that operate there, as well as how this ban might impact regions outside of Europe.

For many, this is a welcome decision that indirectly tackles the controversial topics of overproduction and degrowth. Policymakers may not be directly telling brands to produce less, or placing limits on how many units they can make each year, but they are penalising those overproducing, which is a step in the right direction, says Eco-Age sustainability consultant Philippa Grogan. “This has been a dirty secret of the fashion industry for so long. The ban won’t end overproduction on its own, but hopefully it will compel brands to be better organised, more responsible and less greedy.”

Clarifications to come

There are some kinks to iron out, says Scott Lipinski, CEO of Fashion Council Germany and the European Fashion Alliance (EFA). The EFA is calling on the EU to clarify what it means by both “unsold goods” and “destruction”. Unsold goods, to the EFA, mean they are fit for consumption or sale (excluding counterfeits, samples or prototypes)...

The question of what happens to these unsold goods if they are not destroyed is yet to be answered. “Will they be shipped around the world? Will they be reused as deadstock or shredded and downcycled? Will outlet stores have an abundance of stock to sell?” asks Grogan.

Large companies will also have to disclose how many unsold consumer products they discard each year and why, a rule the EU is hoping will curb overproduction and destruction...

Could this shift supply chains?

For Dio Kurazawa, founder of sustainable fashion consultancy The Bear Scouts, this is an opportunity for brands to increase supply chain agility and wean themselves off the wholesale model so many rely on. “This is the time to get behind innovations like pre-order and on-demand manufacturing,” he says. “It’s a chance for brands to play with AI to understand the future of forecasting. Technology can help brands be more intentional with what they make, so they have less unsold goods in the first place.”

Grogan is equally optimistic about what this could mean for sustainable fashion in general. “It’s great to see that this is more ambitious than the EU’s original proposal and that it specifically calls out textiles. It demonstrates a willingness from policymakers to create a more robust system,” she says. “Banning the destruction of unsold goods might make brands rethink their production models and possibly better forecast their collections.”

One of the outstanding questions is over enforcement. Time and again, brands have used the lack of supply chain transparency in fashion as an excuse for bad behaviour. Part of the challenge with the EU’s new ban will be proving that brands are destroying unsold goods, not to mention how they’re doing it and to what extent, says Kurazawa. “Someone obviously knows what is happening and where, but will the EU?”"

-via British Vogue, December 7, 2023

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redspamedia · 2 years

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HELLO FUTURE

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#Fimmano #New York #Trend union #Ulrich Lang #Zukunft

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anotherpapercut · 11 months

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can we make unionizing the next tik tok challenge

#im not on tik tok but i understand it to be something of a trend maker #trying to think of ways to get the younger people at work into unionizing lmao #we need to sexualize it

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eyeofthelama · 8 months

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💍🖤 congrats to my brudda & sister in law !

Shot by Me | IG: EYEOFTHELAMA

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comrade-onion · 3 days

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No Mercy ☭

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handern · 5 months

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i'm slow but I just realized that almost every single Discworld character is either part of a union or pushing for union rights

#it felt so natural that it is a trend I did not see #Vetinari? it makes his job easier it makes the city better and safer #he wins by unionizing rats and people #Vimes? no need to explain that one #Granny? SHE WORKS WITH BEES ONE OF THE ONLY UNIONIZED ANIMALS #Adora and the golem

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mobydyke · 7 months

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"men think about ancient rome daily" ok sure whatever but

#callout post for ME it's ME im the gf #ace txt #anyway that rome trend/article is SO funny but like. i do think about the soviet union weekly

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why-is-this-trending · 10 months

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Why is This Trending? #3 WGA

07/12/2023

WGA (Writers Guild of America) #3

The strike by the writers of your favorite shows continues, and it seems it will stay for a while, mimicking similar eventos to the one that happmed over a decade ago (and brought oh so much pain). The strike focus of ammeters such as adequate pay, overtime, cruch hours and the use of AI and other algorythimic text generation. This time, hollywood seems intent on not giving out and claims surfeced of only allowing talks to continue after the writers "go broke", which would be in several months, likely in the fall, using a certain amount of desperation and necessity as leverage to undermine the writers so much which we love. Support your writers and unions folks!

#why is this trending #witt #wga #wga strike #union #strike

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wings-of-flying · 1 year

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flag culture in england vs america is v funny to me. because in america the flag is just everywhere. but in england if you fly the flag, you're instantly identifiable as a racist and brexit supporter

#if i'm wrong let me know #tbh it might be similar in america #but like you hardly ever see the union jack here let alone the english flag (except when football)#the bungalow opposite us put up a flagpole with the union jack and the parents' instant reaction was #immediate disgust #and mum wanted to put up my pride flag in retaliation (cause a bunch of neighbours hopped on the union jack trend)#but I didn't want to because mine #my ex friend tried to tell me having the union jack up didn't mean you were racist but like...#that just made me suspicious of her family tbh #albatross rambles

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3gremlins · 4 months

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obviously it's early yet and there have only been 2 episodes but so far i am underwhelmed by the percy jackson tv show. thoughts behind cut (i guess very mild spoilers but nothing big)

mostly b/c every time it uses cgi fx the lighting gets DULL AF and terrible and i am begging disney etc to just pay for lighting people and practical effects/mixture of cgi and practical so it can be lit properly and not rely on making everything dark to hide shitty looking composition with weird flattening color grading (the actual models don't look that bad, they're just badly composited. like let a dramatic rim light enter your life, fam, i am begging you).

The props also look a little cheap? Esp in the capture the flag war scene, they all look/sound like plastic with little to make it seem like they're not (also the fit on the helmets was kinda meh, but i realize this is nitpicky).

it just added to making the show look cheap in a way it def shouldn't be b/c the mouse has so much freaking money. idk, it feels like they got a meager budget for a thing that deserves a GoT or at least a Mandalorian/SW budget tbh (orrrrrr i wish they'd just done a cool animated show in the style of the opening/closing credits but obviously that would be more expensive and the house of mouse are cowards T.T)

also the writing has been a lot of "tell instead of show" exposition so far which makes for not so great tv (it would have been much cooler to see the luke/thalia/anabeth bg stuff as a flashback instead of just having luke explain it on screen- stuff like that. Which is probably a budget/direction issue and less of a writing issue tbf). More characterization in general- like it just feels a little rushed like they were trying to hit major plot points faster (esp with the inter god house relations).

It also feels like someone told Jason Mantzoukas to dial it back and so he feels weirdly restrained as mr.d (a very strange choice imho). Like you hire him to be loud and a little obnoxious and i'm not sure about this directing choice for this character (this is sort of minor but it contributed to the first 2 eps feeling overall kinda muted?)

Book 1 is the weakest book by far tho so probably season 1 will be the weakest since it's an adaptation of that but I thought maybe they'd be able to fix some of the issues since Riordan has more direct control over that with this adaptation. Like move some plot points around/character narratives to make it a little more dynamic and make us care about more of the main characters sooner.

it also feels like it's missing a little bit of that rick riordan is a huge classics/mythology nerd DEEP CUT references that are in the books (we got a little with that one kid talking about the goddess of failure but not really enough)

the casting is great tho and maybe it will get rolling as the season goes on, i will keep watching for sure. I'm just sad it wasn't better b/c now I'm not going to be able to convince my partner to read the books lol. He already read the Magnus Chase books which he liked, but he's afraid of the PJ books b/c the first few aren't as good/were written earlier

#percy jackon and the olympians #percy jackson #percy jackson show #percy jackson spoilers #percy jackson premier #percy jackson disney+#text post #i think this suffers from the trend in doing 8 to 10 eps of shows these days #i feel like 12 to 15 is the magic number for good storytelling balance without the story feeling crunched #more than that usually has too much filler #josh pointed out that 12 to 15 eps is a season of modern anime lol (look they usually do have good pacing)#i mean obvs there's lots of corporate greed trying to not pay people or run around labor unions at work here too i think #pretty sure if it's 8 eps they can call it something else and pay folks less/do less residuals kinda thing #but in an ideal world it'd be nice if good storytelling and paying people proper wages was prioritized instead #q

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chicagocubsreactions · 2 months

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MLB players dressing down Nike, Fanatics over new uniforms that look ‘like a replica’

[Original article]

The top story of spring training so far has nothing to do with the seams and stitches on a baseball. Instead, the talk of spring is all about the seams and stitches of the new jersey that Major League Baseball’s on-field uniform provider has rolled out for this season: the Nike Vapor Premier.

Nike claims the new jersey is softer, lighter and stretchier than the previous model. Many players say it’s worse. In clubhouses around the league on Wednesday, they criticized the jerseys’ poor fit, cheap look, inconsistent quality and small lettering.

“It looks like a replica,” Angels outfielder Taylor Ward said. “It feels kind of like papery. It could be great when you’re out there sweating, it may be breathable. But I haven’t had that opportunity yet to try that out. But from the looks of it, it doesn’t look like a $450 jersey.

“So far, thumbs down.”

At his locker, Angels reliever Carlos Estévez was in a tizzy over the new threads. He pulled out a couple tops and pairs of pants to show that the shades didn’t match. He laughed at the spacing and shrunken nature of the lettering on the back of the jersey. And he bemoaned the fact he can’t customize his pants to his preference, the way pitchers once could, tailoring the fit to their big dumpers and tree-trunk thighs.

“When I wear my pants, I feel like I’m wearing someone else’s pants,” Estévez said.

“I could see Estévez (flexing),” Ward said, “and it just ripping in the back.”

An airing of sartorial grievances that began earlier this week at the St. Louis Cardinals complex in Jupiter, Fla. has resulted in Nike, which engineered and designed the jerseys, and Fanatics, which manufactured them, facing blowback from big leaguers and baseball fans alike. The complaints prompted players to take their displeasure to their union, and the MLBPA is now involved in relaying the players’ concerns.

But anyone paying attention only to official channels would have little idea what the fuss was about. As that storm of criticism brewed in clubhouses, MLB and Nike ran a joint press release about the new jersey that included rave reviews from Cardinals third baseman Nolan Arenado (“It’s almost like wearing my favorite shirt out on the field”), Orioles catcher Adley Rutschman (“much more breathable, with vents on the numbers and better airflow all around”) and reigning NL MVP Ronald Acuña Jr. (“Feeling free in the jersey is the best feeling in the world”). All wear Nike gear in games. So do several other stars who have publicly praised the jerseys since Nike debuted them at the 2023 All-Star Game: Mike Trout, Kenley Jansen, Corbin Carroll and Jason Heyward.

Chicago Cubs shortstop Dansby Swanson, who has a Nike endorsement deal, said he reached out to Nike contacts Tuesday to discuss the new jerseys. He’s all for the new materials, he said, but some of the design decisions — like the specific shade of blue on the Cubs jerseys — are worth reconsidering.

“Cubbie blue is its own blue, right?” Swanson said. “This blue on the uniform is a little bit different than Cubbie blue. So how can we just recapture that?”

Swanson’s broader point was that in the design process, Nike may have removed some elements that make each team’s jersey their own. In Cardinals camp, for example, they lamented losing the chain-stitching of player names on the jersey.

“You wouldn’t change the font of, let’s say, the (Atlanta) Falcons,” Swanson said, referring to his favorite National Football League team. “They have a little bit of a futuristic block lettering. That’s unique to their jersey. You wouldn’t then go put that on the New York Giants jersey.” He added, “With some of those things, it’s like this makes a Cubs uniform a Cubs uniform. It doesn’t need to change. I think that they will probably have to end up figuring out a way to kind of go back to what it used to be.”

It is unclear whether these uniforms will differ from those worn in the regular season.

Nike did not respond to a request for comment.

While the jerseys themselves have changed, the main parties in the creation process have been the same since Nike became MLB’s official on-field uniform provider in December 2019, reportedly paying more than $1 billion for a 10-year deal. (Under Armour initially won that bid, back in 2016, but that deal fell apart and Nike swooshed in.) Nike partnered with Fanatics — which had purchased MLB’s 2005-19 uniform supplier, Majestic, in April 2017 — to manufacture the jerseys. So the Nike jerseys are now produced by Fanatics, out of the same Pennsylvania factory where Majestic jerseys were once made.

Chris Creamer, who runs SportsLogos.net, explained in an email Wednesday that it’s surprisingly common for one company to create jerseys for another brand like Fanatics is now doing for Nike. When Fanatics takes over as the National Hockey League’s uniform outfitter this fall, the Fanatics-branded jerseys will be manufactured at the same Quebec factory as the Adidas ones NHL players are wearing this season.

“The money exchanged in these deals is really just for that brand’s corporate logo on the jersey,” Creamer wrote. “The leagues or the companies involved don’t seem too bothered by who is actually producing it.”

A Fanatics spokesperson declined to comment.

Nike claims that in designing the Nike Vapor Premier it “body-scanned more than 300 baseball players to dial in the ideal fit — more athletic and form-fitting than the previous chassis,” which is clothes-speak for template. But a common complaint among players is that Nike has limited the customization of jerseys.

Pitchers, in particular, are huffing about their pants. Before last year, according to multiple pitchers, they had several measurements taken for their pants, which then were tailored. Nike has since simplified the fitting process, and tailoring is not on the table. (“You’re telling me that Fernando Tatis is going to be on the field without painted-on pants?” a pitcher joked. “Robbie Ray with some baggy pants?”)

Some clubhouse managers have taken on the task of tailoring.

Yankees reliever Tommy Kahnle, who fans have given the nickname “Tommy Tightpants,” has leaned into the look. He reached into his locker for his new trousers Wednesday and gave them a “stretch test” with his hands. Not tight enough. Kahnle hadn’t actually put them on yet, but he knew.

“I like the old ones,” Kahnle declared.

A Dodger said he was swimming in his pants.

A Tiger loudly complained, “These pants they made are terrible.”

Among the design tweaks Nike made to this year’s jersey, according to Uni Watch’s Paul Lukas, are stretchier fabric, changing home jerseys from white to a subtle off-white, narrowing the placket (the vertical strip on the front of the shirt upon which the buttons sit), altering the belt loops, moving the MLB logo down on the back of the jersey and reducing the size of the last-name lettering. The latter change has fans fuming and players scratching their heads.

(Link to tweet showing the difference in the jerseys)

Tigers catcher Jake Rogers, who had no other complaints about the jerseys (“It feels good”), noticed that the lettering was visibly smaller this year. “You see an old jersey, my name was like this,” he said, gesturing with his hands, “using up a lot of room.”

“Look at the last names, bro,” Estévez said. “I’m 6-foot-6. This is going to look tiny on me.”

“I think the last names look really bad honestly,” a Cardinals player said. “I saw someone on Twitter said this looks like a Walmart jersey.”

Nike will sell three versions of the Nike Vapor Premier jerseys to fans: Limited Jersey (“inspired by the on-field jersey”), Game Jersey (“replica player jersey”) and Elite Jersey (“authentic jersey, as worn by player on-field”). Only the Limited jersey is currently available; an Acuña can be had for $174.99.

Now situated at Cubs spring training in Mesa, Ariz., Swanson has been sort of stuck in the middle, privy to both complaints from players about the jerseys and chats with Nike employees about them.

“It’s one of those things where there’s good and bad,” Swanson said. “It’s hard to sit here and just blast them about it or praise them for it. There’s stuff on both sides, and I think the beauty is they’re willing to have those conversations. Obviously, if it’s a change of anything, initial reactions are always going to be (strong). But I do think there are some things that could be altered to make it better.”

Whether or not Nike makes changes, this jersey looks different. It feels different. It’ll take time, however, to know whether the Nike Vapor Premier is actually better or worse than the version before it. When Majestic in 2016 introduced its “Cool Base” jersey — lighter, moisture-wicking, more flexible — they felt thinner and cheaper, Creamer said. There were design complications. There was criticism. But eventually, everyone moved on.

Reds catcher Luke Maile said changing jerseys is like changing toilet paper.

“You notice it at first,” he said, “but after a while, it’s just your toilet paper.”

#posting this article because I am SO bothered by the uniform stuff #also Dansby features in this so hey #he's maybe the one Nike-contract guy who hasn't been a total shill so far #listen: I am in the apparel industry I understand that development of new fabrics happens and trends occur #for example there's a big push to use more recycled materials for polyester and that's good!#the pants issue sounds like such a huge problem for major leaguers; that is so stupid and should be fixed promptly #as for the jerseys for me it's the detail work that is driving me up a wall #I HATE the font uniformity it looks so silly and small and ugly #I hate that they dropped the MLB logo down off the neck forcing the above change for NO reason #and I HATE HATE HATE LOATHE HATE that they got rid of the stitching for names/numbers/patches #you should NEVER be paying hundreds of dollars for HEATPRESSED JERSEYS #I am NOT shelling out $450 for heatpressed trash are you kidding me #baseball #hey MLBers this is why you have a union maybe get something done with that

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