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Mazatlán – a feast for the eyes, soul and stomach Beauty of this destination stretches far and wide

Check out my latest column here

https://www.timesherald.com/2023/02/10/mazatlan-a-feast-for-the-eyes-soul-and-stomach/

Poolside at Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan (credit: Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan)

With an incredible array of diverse things to do, history, art and culture, and some of the freshest seafood available, Mazatlán deserves to be known as much more than the shrimp capital of Mexico. This “Pearl of the Pacific,” will have you reconsidering, not only where to head for a winter escape, but where you may want to vacation regularly every year. I have put Mazatlán on my “must return to” list, after a recent visit. A vacation experience here might even prompt you to purchase a small resort villa-style condo for retirement living.

From El Faro, the highest natural altitude lighthouse in both North and South America to Malecón, one of the longest boardwalks in the world, you’ll be enchanted by both the gorgeous stretches along the Pacific Ocean and the rich history dating back to 1531. Mazatlán is beautiful, welcoming, charming, and extremely safe; not at all subjected to some of the challenges Mexico’s larger cities may experience.

It is the oldest port in Mexico, the epicenter of its shrimp industry, and brimming with fascinating cultural, culinary, and eclectic places to be experienced. From arts and museums to live music, and the brand new, soon-to–be-opening Mazatlán Aquarium, you’ll be dazzled and delighted by so much more than its spectacular Pacific Ocean beaches with breathtaking sunsets. And did you know that Mazatlán claims to be the 3rd largest carnival in the world? February 16 -21, 2023 is the 125th anniversary of its celebration.

The Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán Beach Resort https://bit.ly/3lhzNAd – located along the famous Zona Dorada, or Golden Zone of Mazatlán, was the perfect oasis for my first trip to Mexico. This all- inclusive resort was voted to “The 25 Best Resort Hotels in Mexico,” list by the readers of Travel + Leisure magazine. The publication said, “The best resorts in Mexico according to the readers, showcase the country’s spectacular beaches, food, and culture. There are myriad reasons to love Mexico, from ample sunshine and secluded beaches to warm hospitality and flavor-packed food.” More about the culinary experience in a bit…

Here, “all-inclusive” is just that… rates include beautifully appointed room, taxes and gratuities, dining, snacks and drinks at all onsite restaurants and bars as well as those at the nearby sister resort (free shuttle provided), Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay Resort & Spa https://bit.ly/3YoFGdF , the only AAA Four-Diamond resort in Mazatlán and named the “Top Resort in Mazatlán” by Conde Nast Traveler. With more than a dozen restaurants and bars among the two resorts, see if you can experience all of them. And if these restaurants aren’t enough, guests can live it up at Casa 46 for a very small additional charge.

There is an array of daily activities to partake in (you can even take a Spanish class) as well as pools, fitness center, pottery painting and nature tours.

For guests who want to indulge in spa treatments, the luxurious Armonia Spa at Emerald Bay offers a retreat well-deserved. The treatment prices are quite affordable.

Upon arrival, I enjoyed lunch at Palapa Bar, one of the two poolside bars. Shrimp cocktail was a must being that Mazatlán reigns supreme in Mexico when it comes to shrimp. A delicious, chicken quesadilla followed. With lush surroundings, views, and warm welcome from the staff, I knew I would enjoy these few days in paradise.

Cilantro’s, with its oceanfront seating with spectacular views of sunset is where my first dinner was savored. Cilantro’s salad is presented beautifully, and the freshness and combination of tastes and textures (hearts of palm, avocado, mixed greens, jicama, parmesan crisp with raspberry vinaigrette) made it a salad to remember. The entrée, steak with a Pasillas chili reduction, is served with mashed potatoes and fresh vegetables. And of course, for dessert it had to be “Pueblo Bonito” Flan with an essence of Grand Marnier.

Breakfast at Las Palomas began my first full day of exploration. Looking at the very extensive buffet, I opted for it, instead of the ala carte menu. In addition to traditional breakfast fare, Mexican specialties are plentiful. With the plethora of beautifully displayed fresh fruit and pastries, I felt as if I were a kid in a candy store.

After a hearty breakfast, it was off to hike up to the El Faro lighthouse, in operation since 1879 and the highest lighthouse in the Americas; a must when visiting Mazatlán and the perfect way to burn off those calories. With the 500+ foot elevation (about 300 steps up) you’ll be snapping pictures of spectacular views of the city and surrounding scenery. For those that aren’t afraid of heights, take a walk on the plexiglass-floored walkway when you reach the top.

Then, it was off to take the funicular to Observatorio 1873 https://observatorio1873.com/en/. Originally built as a military observation post, today it boasts several attractions; a tequila-making exhibit, tropical bird aviary where I had opportunity feed the birds, museum, and cacti and agave garden. After, sip on a drink at the Sky-High Bar with bird’s eye views of the Pacific Ocean and the port.

It was time for lunch, so I returned to the resort and again ate at Cilantro’s. I started with a traditional tortilla soup served with crispy corn tortilla strips, guajillo chili, avocado, cheese, and sour cream. I was so impressed with it that I asked the chef for the recipe so I could share it with you. Watch the chef Gerardo prepare the soup here https://bit.ly/3jMsLTW Next, Tex- Mex salad (mixed greens, black beans, yellow corn kernels, cherry tomato, bacon, hard-boiled egg, goat cheese and coriander vinaigrette). Their version of the Philly Cheesesteak was quite impressive…. Look out Philadelphia. At the previous dinner at Cilantro’s, I eyed the Mazatlan—Style Banana Cream Pie. It was heavenly, not overly sweet, or creamy.

Casa 46: A culinary experience with great views of Plaza Machado in historic Mazatlan

Casa 46, located in the historic district of Mazatlán, overlooking Plaza Machado, is owned by the resort. Guests of Pueblo Bonito are welcome to dine here for a very small upcharge. You must experience dining here. The food, ambiance and service are beyond spectacular. The salad is like no other salad I have had. It is described on the menu as Quelites – tender leaves with agave syrup and soya dressing, “requesón”, pumpkin seeds with salted caramel, topped with coconut and yuzu ice cream. The pea cream soup, with sliced regional scallops and truffle oil, was smooth and a palate cleanser. This was followed by a delicate flaky white fish drizzled with a pumpkin blossom sauce, served with huitlacoche (whee-tla-KOH-cheh) , watercress and truffle risotto. Food aficionados might want to learn more about huitlacoche. The New York style steak was cooked to perfection over firewood and served with carrot puree, capers, and tomato, topped with creamy parsley sauce. The sweet ending to this epicurean experience was a spongy date cake with dulce de leche, topped with walnuts and dates.

Plaza Machado in the historic district of Mazatlan (credit: Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan)

After dinner I took a stroll of the historic district admiring the architecture and window shopped the boutiques.

After another bountiful breakfast it was off to explore the charming town of El Quelite, a half hour from Mazatlán. The cobblestone streets, mom and pop stores, and genuine hospitality of locals made me think of simple times of years past. The small tortilla bakery welcomed visitors to peek in. The tortillas were the best I have ever had. No preservatives and made in small batches with love by the founder’s daughter and her family.

Tortilla bakery in El Quelite

Lunch at El Meson de Los Laureanos was delectable. Authentic Sinaloense cuisine is prepared with local ingredients. The colorful décor and murals on the walls add to the Mexican flavor. This is where the locals eat, too. The restaurant’s cheese maker was onsite demonstrating her impressive craft. The menu could be overwhelming with so many options. All main courses begin with a tray of locally prepared snacks (fresh cheese, cheese curds, jocoque – like sour cream, tortilla chips and chili sauce) I suggest you order one of the combination dishes to experience a variety of items. The grilled steak was superb in both quality and flavor. It is described as world-class Sinaloense beef cooked to juicy perfection over a rustic charcoal grill.

Cheesemaking at El Meson de Los Laureanos Restaurant in El Quelite

On the ride back to the resort, a stop was made at a marshmallow factory. Their marshmallows are not your “Campfire” brand kind. I peeked in to look at the process. These confections are hand crafted using only a few ingredients. After enjoying the pillowy texture and taste, I don’t think I can eat mass-produced marshmallows again.

Upon returning to Pueblo Bonito, it was time to relax and read up on the history of the resort and Mazatlán. It has a storied past.

Dinner was at Pescados, the recently opened restaurant at the resort features sushi and Asian-inspired fare. It is a treat to dine alfresco, especially when it is cold in the northeast. The edamame’s preparation made it flavorful; sauteed with ginger oil, soy sauce and lemon. For those not in the sushi mood, the lobster roll filled with tempura lobster, cream cheese, roasted asparagus, avocado, spinach, carrot and served with mango sauce is superb. Another favorite, Thai coconut salad (chicken tempura, mixed greens, spinach, carrot, red cabbage, bell peppers, fried wanton, coconut with peanut dressing). For dessert, the Japanese cake with mango compote and plum sauce was lite and not too rich. It paired well with the signature non-alcoholic Red Dragon, a fusion of ginger, strawberry, peppermint, sparkling water, and Jasmine tea. Upon return, I must try the coconut and pineapple tapioca, prepared with coconut milk, coconut liqueur, pineapple and ginger jam.

On my last full day, I took a hard hat tour of the soon-to-open New Mazatlán Aquarium, the largest in Latin America. I am told that there will be interactive exhibits, visitors will be able to view hundreds of creatures that inhabit the Sea of Cortez through an 18-foot-high window, enjoy sprawling terraces with views of the Parque Central de Mazatlán and the lagoon, and dine at the restaurant while taking in the views.

Lunch was at Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay’s Bistro restaurant. I enjoyed the tortilla soup so much at Cilantro’s, I needed to get my fix. Fajitas arrived sizzling and wow, the aroma of the spices, whet my appetite. Chef Gerardo shares the recipe for the corn bread Mazatlán style, a popular brunch item below. Watch him prepare it here https://bit.ly/3IahMNl

Beautiful landscapes at Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay

Lunch was followed by a spa treatment and a drink at the resort’s pool. Remember, guests from Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán can dine at Emerald Bay and enjoy the amenities.

Back at Pueblo Bonito, I thought I should begin packing, for the trip home the following day. I stalled doing this to take in the views from the balcony. The panoramas are addictive.

The final dinner was at Angelo’s the resort’s Northern Italian restaurant. The contemporary décor was juxtaposed with old world cuisine. Panzanella salad (cherry tomatoes, peppers, onion, cucumber salad, focaccia croutons, feta cheese and balsamic and olive oil dressing) began this last dinner. Of course, dining at an Italian restaurant, the minestrone soup was in order. Gamberi Alla Busara (sauteed shrimp, with onion, chili flakes, garlic, white wine served with roasted vegetables and risotto) was the entrée. The chef’s spicing perfection let the freshness of the crustacean shine.

When you visit Mazatlán, you will find that it is easy to get around. You don’t need a rental car. The resort has a shuttle to take you to and from the sister hotels and Casa 46. If you choose to explore the surrounding area in a fun way, pulmonias (open air cabs, that look like a big golf cart)) are the way to go.

If you want to explore the culinary scene in Mazatlán, Flavor Teller https://www.flavorteller.com/ offers food tours and a Mexican kitchen experience where you’ll learn how the locals create everyday food.

The concierge at the resort can help to book you on a tour of interest; El Quelite Rural Tour, City and Ranch tour, a Shrimp Factory tour among several others.

There is so much to see, do and eat in Mazatlán, I know I will be back for more. If you go, I hope your experience is as grand as mine was.

Sunset at Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan (credit:Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan

CORN BREAD MAZATLAN STYLE

¾ cup flour

¾ teaspoon baking powder

6 tablespoons butter, softened

4 eggs

1 ½ cups sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 ¾ cups fresh corn kernels (if using frozen corn, use 1 cup flour)

Butter and flour an 8-inch round cake pan or spring-form pan and set aside. Heat oven to 400 degrees.

Sift flour and baking powder into a mixing bowl. Place butter, eggs, vanilla and corn kernels in a blender. Blend until combined and then add the sifted flour/baking powder mixture, and blend until ingredients are incorporated. Pour batter into the pan, place in oven. Bake 30-40 minutes (top should be golden brown) and a toothpick comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cool for 20 minutes.

The resort makes this recipe as muffins, too. They garnish with caramelized popcorn and crème anglaise.

Corn bread muffins topped with caramelized popcorn. A popular menu item at Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay

TORTILLA SOUP

4 tablespoons corn oil

1 teaspoon garlic, minced

1 medium white onion, chopped

4 dried Guajillo chili peppers, seeds removed, cut up

½ pound ripe fresh tomatoes, cut up

1 soft tortilla shell, cut into strips and fried

4 cilantro leaves

2 ½ cups chicken stock

garnish

fried tortilla strip shells

avocado, diced

sour cream

cotija or other dry crumbled cheese

cilantro

Heat oil in a soup pot and then add garlic and onion and cook until translucent. Add guajillo chili peppers and let cook for 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, fried tortilla strips, cilantro and chicken stock. Let boil until guajillo chili peppers get soft. Pour mixture into a blender (or use immersion blender) and blend until smooth. Put back into pot and bring to a boil. Add additional chicken stock for desired texture. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon pepper, adjusting to your taste. Garnish Serves 4.

Chef Gerardo Gamboa, of Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan just finished preparing the delicious tortilla soup.

Stephen Fries is a newly retired professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, CT. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 14 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, CT. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email: [email protected] For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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