Dragging a Viscount into Early Period
My first hack at more elaborate men's Rus has been prompted by a favorite Viscountess of mine dragging her fighter into early period.
I was given a pile of fabric for pre-determined aspects: a chenille upholstery fabric for the body, a buttery yellow linen for the facings, and a cream linen for the pants. For full disclosure, this piece is a commission that I'm doing at a reduced rate in hopes of getting my name out there on a pretty prominent figure in my region.
I used the calculations for measurements and layout given to me by Dvorianka Anastasiia which are derived from the patterning work done by Mistress Talana the Violet of blessed memory. It is similar to a variation of the style 5 tunic as categorized by The Renaissance Tailor, with trapezoidal gores in both the skirt and armpit, leading to an overall sleeker fit to the body than the standard square armpit gore. As some measurements had changed since Anastasiia last took them, I stressed myself out until I realized I have unlimited power at my fingertips: basic scripting. I wrote a short program to take hard coded measurements and spit out the exact dimensions of the pattern pieces, which felt a little bit like overkill and also not impressive at all.
With pieces patterned, cut out, and (mostly) serged, I delved into construction. I have learned from experience my preferred method of construction is starting by attaching the two body rectangles at the shoulders, attaching and turning the neckhole facing, and then assembling everything flat as follows.
This makes lining up and turning the facing significantly easier for me to do, and hides raw edges within the seams. Starting with the neckhole, however, means there's less fabric for me to fight while I turn a particularly annoying facing.
With the facing laid out on the body fabric, consultation with some of my apprentice siblings determined deep burgundy is the way to go for all the accents. I decided on split stitch around the neckhole and buttonhole stitch around the edges of the neckline, but quickly decided I prefer the split stitch for the rest of the decorative stitching on the garment.
For the sleeve cuffs, I pinned them in place, ran a quick line of running backstitch along the tops of the cuffs to secure them in place, then did split stitch at the top of the cuffs and a running stitch around the opening to keep the edge tidy while still not using visible machine stitching.
One thing the recipient of this garment expressed is that the striped facing secured with buttons or toggles is an ideal look, and luckily I have a significant quantity of the Vindheim buttons from Bad Baroness in stash. I do not have sufficient woven or braided trim in truly appropriate quantity or style for this garment to be aggressively period, but with the fabric we're already taking liberties and the ribbons look nice and appear to be a popular substitute for strips of silk tape performing the same function in our area. I laid the ribbon out at inch and a half intervals and made sure my lines would be straight on both sides. I turned the ends of the ribbons in and secured them with a whip stitch in a matching thread.
With my facing done and the worst of the neckhole dealt with, I seamed the rest of the garment into an actually clothing-shaped piece of fabric and let it hang for a day while working on other projects.
I decided to use a "looped cord" method of button loops, using a cord from an old site token that happens to look an awful lot like the cord used for an award the recipient has received. Starting from the bottom of the neckhole, on the wearer's right side, I've tacked the cord down under the edge of the garment, securing the loops aggressively.
Sometime soon I will get clearer pictures of this garment on the recipient.
The more I look at this garment and all other Rus-ish garments i've made and seen, I think I may need to round the gores into the "skirt" of the tunic more dramatically. I can no longer find the artistic depiction that originally gave me the impression, but until this point i've been letting the right angles of the skirt remain as initially cut, giving an angular overall silhouette but the rounding may be necessary for the right look.
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That it was in Africa the little Pigmy was first evolved from an Anthropoid Ape- in the Nile Valley and around the Lakes at the of the Nile (which i will for the sake of brevity style "Old Egypt"). The Pigmy was first Homo- the little red man of the Earth. From Africa these little men spread all over the world, North, South America and Oceania were populated by them.- Albert Churchward
Quote from Lucian (Greek writer) when describing an Egyptian:"This boy is not merely black; he has thick lips and his legs are too thin..."
Quote from Aeschylus (when describing the Egyptians): "I can see the crew with their black limbs and white tunics."
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Winter Sale Part 5
Look fashionably tired to ring in the new year.
We’ll be posting select items we put on sale over the days, but you can find everything over at our store’s site.
Featured on this post:
→ Hecate Tunic
→ Desdemona Sweater
→ Cereberus Dress (Update since graphic was made: sold out of size XL and 4X)
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AJ on vacation at La Samanna | St. Martin | posted 4 June 2021
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Emporio Sirenuse 'Charlotte Top' in White, $360 – sold out
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Follow Aly & AJ Style on Instagram!
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