#the stays are for a femme in historical gentleman's clothes looks | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

badassindistress · 9 months

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do you perhaps have a pattern for that gentleman's corset? asking for a friend

Hi!

Unfortunately, I do not have a pattern to give you, but I do have a way for you/your friend to draft your own.

(If you really do just want a ready pattern, I'm pretty sure my #binding stays or #flattening stays tags include some etsy shops that have binders with corsetry methods)

I'm presuming you are here because that 5 year old post of the binder with elizabethan stays method is going around again (left). I've also since made a pair of stays that flatten nicely as well (right).

The left pattern was drafted with the free Custom Corset Pattern Generator from elizabethancostume.net. You just input a little extra breathing room in the waist and the bust measurement you can comfortably squish your chest down to.

However, that was many years ago and I have since had more success using a Mariah Pattie's circular drafting technique. It has so much less measuring and math and it gave me a better fit.

Here's my post on that technique, along with her video.

And here's my post amending that to a binder instead of stays.

In short, all you need is:

a large piece of paper

a string

a pen

a measuring tape and

the measurement of your waist circumference

the measurement of your chest bound down circumference

the measurement of the vertical distance between your waist and chest.

You draw out the pattern following the video + my explanation post (this takes me about 30 minutes vs the hour or two for drafting the usual way). Then I make it longer with a cm or two at the bottom and at least 3 cm on top. One change I've made since that post was to pinch out a little dart at the arms to make it lie smoother under clothes. One day I'm going to experiment with adding straps to this design, but today is not that day.

I kept mine quite low, because I wanted a 18th century round chested look, but with straps and longer stays you could probably go flatter (depending on how much you have to flatten of course).

This is what it looks like under a waistcoat tailored according to a menswear manual:

i'll also drop here the posts of other people who've I've talked about their binders using corsetry and tailoring methods: horsehair canvas summer binder, there's another one about how convenient ribbons are for easy adjustment but i can't find it (EDIT: found it!)

Good luck and do let me know if you've advanced this research any further!

#the stays are for a femme in historical gentleman's clothes looks #both are first tries #and fine for an afternoon #but not fitted enough to me for daily wear #but that's mostly because of my back issues #the chest compression bit is fine #this is as ever a work in progress #let me know if i need to explain some other things #i've been planning for about a year to draft a new pattern and collect all the information in one post #but again #not today #hope this helps!#binding stays #flattening stays #gentleman's corset

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neferdede · 7 years

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BLACK HISTORY MONTH: "Through Woke Eyes From Different Side" Pt. 3

February 21, 2017

Written By: Desiree Dossen

Welcome back to all, if some of you were waiting for last week's post, Chelsea and I were having technical difficulties rendering a video we made. However if you follow her instagram you can catch snippets from our discussion. Thank you all for the love, support, and kind words we have been receiving as we share our experiences with you.

During the historical month of Black history month, we have decided to share some individuals who are influential and creating an impact within not only the African American community but within their various industries. Below I have put together a list of men and women who are sharing their talents in a positive light as they reflect #blackboyjoy and #blackgirlmagic. Sprinkling their golden glitter in various fields these individuals are able to create a sense of harmony and unity through the work they produce as they represent the diaspora, arts, and business mediums through a social dialogue.

BLACK BOY JOY

KOFI SIRIBOE

IG: @KofiSirboe

Twitter: https://twitter.com/kofisiriboe

The Ghanaian-American beaux homme starring on the hit TV series, Queen Sugar. This gentleman is not like your average male. He understands the beauty and the power that is birthed from a woman. It's more than this young man's sex appeal. It is his charm, his work ethic, his humility, Kofi Siriboe is #blackboyjoy.

CHANCE THE RAPPER

IG: @ChanceTheRapper

Twitter: https://twitter.com/chancetherapper

Our conscious, alternative rapper is Chance. Telling his truth and story through his awesome album The Coloring Book. Chance is that guy that can draw up any thought in your head through his articulate, word play. We can all relate to Chance is some way shape or form. He is role model and inspiration for not just young boys but young girls like me. Chance is like that big brother I never had. After reading an article about is faith and why he does what he does. I love him even more. He stands up for what he believs in by simply bein himself never losing sight of God who created all things. Thanks Chance for sharing you #blackboyjoy with us.

JOSHUA KISSI

IG: @JoshuaKissi

IG: StreetEtiquette

Twitter: https://twitter.com/JoshuaKissi

One half of the famous duo, Street Etiquette. Joshua has taken us on a journey with his art that reflects the raw truth behind a lens. Instagram feed for visual narratives and vimeo films that captivate the essence of a classic man. I've been following his journey since 2011 when I was in high school. Tumblr days. The Ghanaian, New York native still captivates us through his emotional photography. Yes the video above is about five years old. However that shows how relevant his work is today.

SKIP MARLEY

IG: @SkipMarley

Twitter: https://twitter.com/SkipMarley

Not only is he a spitting image of his grandfather, but Skip has a similar vocal sound to his legendary grandfather. Young and pursuing the family lineage as it has been passed down through generations in the form of music. Had my sister not shared him with me, he wouldn't be apart of this list. However I see his raw, uncut, smooth sounds that he delievrs through his songs.

PROPANGANDA

Twitter: https://twitter.com/prophiphop

The poet that literally thinks about life as he paints it through his verses. Another conscious, Christian man with a mic in his hand. He is a teacher and a believer. Thanks Propaganda for your enlightening #blackboyjoy

BLACK GIRL MAGIC

SZA

IG: @Sza

Twitter: https://twitter.com/sza

Sza is my soul sister. Hailing from Maplewood, NJ I can assure you Jersey girls do it better. In all seriousness, Sza is my number one go to for style inspo as far as personal style. She embodies a relazed, comfortable, chic, grunge, punk, and soulful vibe. Her voice sings for itself, being that her eclectism is by far beautyiful. She has been sprinkling her fairy dust all over our social timelines with in sweats, doc martens, then drops Drew Barrymore on us. I can't get enough of her mane has it inspired my current hairstyles. If I had one celebrity friend or to spend the day with it would be Sza.

CROWEZILLA

IG: @Crowezilla

As I often say we style everything at StylistaInMind from Soul To Crown. Shani Crowe is more than a hairstylist. She has revolutionized the way in which we view our black hair in recent years. As a Chicago native jsut like Chance the Rapper, Shani has displayed her talent through the arts. Monumental images surfaced our timelines of braided extensions shaped in crowns and connectivity that promotes none other than Black Girl Magic.

ST. BEAUTY BAND

The soulful rock duo with profound beauty. I still believe this gorup is by far underrated. Not everyone understands two African American girls singing soft rock, or soulful punk tunes. However I appreciate their talent and support their unconventional magic.

ISIS IG: @ISISV

Alexis

IG: @StBeautyBand

JOJO ABOT

IG: @JojoAbot

Jojo is one of my favorite artists to date. Her eccentric, Afroclectic way of being has drawn me to be a fan of hers. It all started in 2015 when I stumbled across her work of arts on Souncloud. The next was history as I then wrote my Music Final paper on this brilliant woman. Her Ghanian roots as been the inspiration for her innovative sense of style. She is a Jill of all trades and her magic is still burning.

TRUE MAHOGANY

IG: @TrueMahogany

When it comes to instagram I like to follow industry professionals, style influencers, and creatives from all walks of life. Instagram modeling has turned into a profound career for many young men and women. However I feel as though many don't have any meaning or purpose behind what they do for likes, shares, or follows. Some may criticize and say it;s for attention. I other hand need to know the motives of your work and if it will help another out at the end of the day. Adeian is a curvaceous, fearless young woman in which I started following a few months ago. I see not only her beauty, but her passion to advocate for women to love themselves. Me who hates my curves some days, I look at Adrian and she inspires me to love them. I'm not as toned and fit like she is but she states that she has worked hard for her current physique. She makes me want to work hard to acheive my dream figure.

Individuals not listed above, follow to catch a glimpse of how they are spreading black boy joy and black boy magic.

TLZ' FEMME

IG: @TLAZSA

Clothing Brand IG

http://tlzlfemme.com/

Diamond Mahone

Desiree Van Frederick

Elaine Welteroth

Rox Brown

Tamie Lawson

Tracee Ellis Ross

Solange Knowles

In the closing dates of this beautiful month. I can say that February has been fruitful, peaceful, and a month of growth. Despite the federal issues. I believe that change is on the horizon.

Listen to this audio of Nina Simone as today is her birthday we celebrate her legendary greatness. Nun Simone has formed dialogue about Colorism through her music. She was the ultimate advocate for black beauty as she was a proud African American musician.

In honor of her celebratory work a list of enchanting black professionals are listed above in which you can follow. Thanks for reading. Stay tuned for my #PINKMATTERS LOOK BOOK

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