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nightswithkookmin · 3 years

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Goldy,

Kind of off topic, but a little on topic. Have you seen the band Maneskin from Italy? They won 2021 Eurovision Song Contest. Beautiful, beautiful people.

I have no idea of their sexual orientation or preferences, but they wear a lot of makeup on and off stage , and smooch on each other a lot on stage. Nobody bats an eye. They are a Metal band and they dress accordingly. I wish that everyone around the world was as accepting as all their fans are. They are super androgynous as well and they are SEXY as hell

Their charm and sexuality is so fluid and just so natural. They are who they are and they are beautiful and fun to watch. Their comfort with each other is how I wish ALL of us would be

Rock bands rock period

I wonder what they look like in brand ads. I wonder if they are given or are required to have a much tamer look with little to no rings and funky clothing or hoop earrings you can barely see.

Where are the dangly chrome earrings?! WHERE ARE THEY?!🤺

I like my BTS the way they are. It's what I bought in. I want to see men in corsets, waist snatched, dark eyeliners selling alcohol to men. Is that too much to ask?! Is it?!😒

This is what happens when they treat queerness as aesthetics and have no qualms drawing on- if not appropriate- gay culture and lifestyle. Y'all just ditch it for your hyper heteromasculinity whenever y'all want😒

Their ability to divorce themselves completly from certain looks at certain times is what gives me whiplash. When that happens, it creates the impression queerness is just a look, gender fluidity is not real and establishes traditional definitions of masculinity as the norm. You do not have to 'look like a man' to sell alcohol 🤺

I was literally waiting for this Kloud, Klout beer ad to drop ever since Winter Package at the end of last year because we all know what most people think about Alcohol and men. I was curious to how how BTS would market to men as compared to women and teens. I feel there is so much room for them to break norms and set new trends in the advertising world. I'm disappointed so far.

For contrast, look at how they look selling a nonachoholic beverage as compared to how they look selling alcohol. Can I weep? Can I?! See how they look like they just stepped off a set for a music video? They look like themselves. Their everyday selves but you look on your left and it's like huh??????

And in case the message and intent is not clear, here is a photo of different models modeling for the same brand.

Their girls look like "girls" and their boys look like "boys." I'd say BTS in those ads look much more similar to the male model here in terms of looks- that clear cut box labeled men- which to me is a problem.

I'm sorry but this is just lazy advertisement. Nothing at all ground breaking. The models look great. Taehyung looks tasty, heteromasculine and perfect.

I feel used to male oriented brands breaking boundaries and participating in the gender discourse in recent times I think my expectations for BTS on this topic in advertisement was this high.

If heteromasculinity is all y'all can tap into to sell a can of drink I'm sorry but that's misogynistic and sexist and homophobic.

If Jimin or any of these boys come out a few years down the lane in another documentary to say these kinds of shit affected them in any way I AM STARTING WORLD WAR III.

I'm tired of seeing Jimin and other Asian men be emasculated and treated as if they aren't men enough just because they look to them 'feminine.' You don't have to fix their masculinity or tweak it to suit your idea and ideals of masculinity. There's no one way of being man.

Don't get me started on the desexualization of Asian men and it's subsequent effects on Asian men. You hear Asian men are not sexy, they do not sell the fantasy, they are not this, they are not that blah blah blah and yet we sit here and wonder why someone like JK, who had probably internalized that shit, would say he wants to be seen as sexy too and perform sexy choreos and shit.

And no, it's not an American Asian problem, it's a global Asian problem. BTS are on the world's stage being socialized by the global community and they do face almost every microaggression prevalent within the regional communities. It's the American's take on them, Canada, UK, Africa, Asia, Europe, all of them. Everyone is projecting on to them their ideals and understanding of gender and who they should be. Did we not see BTS BIOT trending from the Philippines lately? Gay because WHY???? They wear make up and earrings and love androgynous?

Naa, I'm actually getting gassed the more I think about it🤺🤺🤺🤺🤺🤺🤺🤺🤺🤺

The notion that Asians aren't sexy sits on the opposite end of 'Asians are too soft and good looking they are not masculine' all on the something is inherently wrong with Asian men spectrum.

I keep saying Jikook are the two members who've faced and have perhaps had to defend their masculinities the most- from BTS themselves effeminating JK and always bringing his masculinity to question- you know they once said JK is the most feminine within the group? I think so too but that's besides the point chilee.

Then for Jimin, he's always been either over feminized or defeminized, masculated and treated as if his femininity is wrong and invalid. Didn't a certain Karmy call him a fake woman or something like that? It's almost the same microaggressions transfems and gay men steroetyped as bottoms recieve on a dialy basis in this shit hole we call planet. It's all so ghetto.

Ass holes like to masculate and invalidate fems and masculine femininity, it's appalling. And people like to gaslight and pretend these microaggressions cannot have Freudian effects on these people- he is too strong to be bullied, oh he worked so hard on himself he can't crack so easily, oh it's nothing they're just being sensitive, it was joke, they're reading too much into it, and my personal favorite- y'all are over analyzing when you point it out😌

Some people are legit serial gaslighters, they will gaslight you before you can say the Jay in Jesus.

As a black woman growing up in a community that view black women as strong and incapable of being mentally attacked and traumatized by certain experiences- black people don't get depression or mental health issues because they are black and they are strong- being masculated and defeminized on a dialy basis, I tell you- shit is torture.

All of this, and we sit here and wonder why Jimin wants to go to the gym and build muscles and blend in with the boys etc. Could be nothing, could be a response to the over feminization of Jimin, the emasculation or it could be he is internalizing some things. We will never know.

Personally, I feel JM is on the precipice of something and may be its something, may be its nothing but imma put my foot on these companies' neck and keep it there 🤓

Because it's not just about Jimin. It's about all the people who look up to him. All the people he has influence over. For every queer child who sees themselves in him and these men.

Any who. I think I've said everything I want to say on this topic. The weight on my chest is lifted. Asian men are sexy, their masculinity is VALID. Queer masculinity is valid too and they need to be inclusive of it. If you don't wanna include it leave BTS as they are. We get the representation as they are. Don't tweak them in y'all's brand campaigns. Don't fix Jimin's Jawline and make it more chiseled. HE IS PERFECT THE WAY HE IS.

Now please, let's talk about BigHit and the recent shipping agendas.😐

Signed,

GOLDY

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maijily · 3 years

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I tried imagining what type of aesthetics the DC cast has. Its actually just an excuse for me to draw them in stylish clothes but that doesnt really matter

So here's my headcannon:

SG - White/Minimalist

C/Kloud - Softcore/Vintage 70s academia

Digi - Cyberpunk bc obvIOUSLY

SK - Warmcore/Classic academia

Eden - Baddie/Pastel punk

Ella - Straight up elsa Cyberprep/Light academia

Its not exactly accurate, just my personal assumptions based on the characters' personalities.

Ali's Notes: MIKA?!!?

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU DIGITALIZED ALL OF THEM AND MADE THEM LOOK SO BEAUTIFUL YOU'RE SUCH A PERFECT ARTIST I--

I-I'm just so shocked and high on adrenaline right now-- They look SO gorgeous digitalized, your use of color is astounding and every piece of it is loveable beyond words. THEIR CLOTHES ARE UNBELIEVABLY STYLISH, they're cute and polished all the way, THESE AESTHETICS ARE SO WONDERFULLY CHOSEN AND PERFECT!! Mika I just want to hug you so badly right now I can't tell you how much this made my day, or how many things I want to say to you for making a dream like this into a reality. You have a perfect style and imagination that bleeds so much creativity, and I can tell you any aspiring artist would be jealous of these kinds of ideas and skills.

#submission #cast #as colorful and beautiful as they'll get #the aesthetics are so pleasing #an artist's dream

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magical-grrrl-mavis · 3 years

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Tagged by @beckyarteest, thank you

Nickname: Shuvel (no I will not explain)

Zodiac: Scorpio

Height: 6'5"

Hogwarts: Ravenclaw...

Last Google: ghibli films witches

Song stuck in my head: Dysphoric by Cavetown.

Followers: 18

Amount of sleep: four or twelve hours. No in between. Usually four.

Dream job: cartoonist

Wearing: Green shirt w/ navy blue blazer, cuffed black jeans.

When I created this account: Like 3 months ago...

Favorite song: I can't choose... Right now the big ones are "Freaks" by Jordon Clarke, "Dysphoric" by Cavetown, and "Human's" by KLOUD

Favorite instrument: Piano and Drums.

Aesthetic: I have absolutely no idea. Definitely more than one.

Favorite author: How in the world am I supposed to choose a favorite author?

Random: I'm learning to be ambidextrous.

Tagging: @viktorfell @drabbles-of-writing @phoenix-effigy @luz-in-a-otter-suit @certified-gay-disaster @casswithmywholeheart

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thedenimdentist · 4 years

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Truman Boot Co: Java Waxed Flesh MTO Review & 1 Year Update

Introduction

Truman Boot Company is an American boot making company founded in 2014 in Pennsylvania. They later moved out to Boulder, CO, and recently moved again to their current location in Eugene, OR.

This will not be so much of an in-depth review of the Java Waxed Flesh boot by Truman Boot Company, as an amazingly extensive and detailed review was already written by Nick over at stridewise.com. Instead, my goal is to provide a quick overview of my specific pair of Java Waxed Flesh boots (including the customizations I chose and their build quality), as well as provide detailed photographs capturing the patina they’ve developed over the past year.

Customization

I designed these boots through an MTO order placed back in March 2019. The customizations I chose were as follows:

Last: P-79 last

Size: 11EE

Construction: stitchdown (+$100)

Vamp: cap toe

Heel style: standard, no pull tabs

Stitching: brown

Ankle style: plain

Tongue leather: dark brown

Hardware configuration: 7 eyelets

Hardware finish: antique brass

Toe construction: unstructured

Sole: commando

Sizing

When buying my first pair of Truman boots, I was having a really difficult time determining what size I should order. After speaking to Truman and multiple people through Instagram, it was recommended I buy a size 10EE (based on my Red Wing Iron Ranger size, 9.5EE). Man, was that off. I normally have to wear my boots with a full length orthotic, and I could barely squeeze my foot into the size 10EE boots without the insert. I had to send those back to Truman to be stretched (to a size they claimed was 10.5EE) only to find that it was still way too tight. I ultimately had to sell those boots, and ended up purchasing 3 pairs of size 11EE Trumans within 2 months. (Probably not the best idea, but luckily 11EE was my correct size, so it all worked out.)

Tl;dr: I’m a size 11EE in Truman’s P-79 last.

Above are the two lasts offered by Truman: the C-55 last and the P-79 last (image taken from the Truman website). The C-55 last was not available when I purchased my Java Waxed Flesh boots, and has more of a formal, almond-shaped toe. Unfortunately, Truman does not yet offer wide EE sizing in this C-55 last, so I wouldn’t have been able to choose it anyway.

Below I’ve listed my sizes in boots from other brands for reference:

Truman Boot Company - 11EE

Viberg (1035 last) - 10.5

Red Wing, Iron Ranger - 9.5EE

Thursdays - 10.5

Onderhoud - 44E

Parkhurst - 11

For a deeper dive into how my feet suck and why sizing is always an issue for me when buying any footwear, please refer to my Onderhoud review (here).

(Above are the orthotic inserts I wear in my boots. They’re full length memory foam, so all my boots feel like slippers. Available on Amazon.)

Above are my 3 pairs of Trumans (from left to right: Java Waxed Flesh, Black Waxy Commanders, and Aubergine Horserump), along with my Red Wing Iron Rangers. All 3 Trumans are size 11EE with unstructured toes. (I’ve heard others recommend dropping down a half size for Trumans with a structured toe box. I can’t say for sure since I’ve never tried, so don’t quote me on that.)

Price & Shipping

The base price for these boots was $380. With the $100 fee for stitchdown construction, the final price came out to be $480 (plus $18 shipping). I placed my order on 3/15/2019, they were completed and shipped on 5/17/2019, and the boots were delivered on 5/23/2019.

Leather

Java Waxed Flesh is vegetable-tanned roughout leather produced exclusively for Truman by Horween Leather Company in Chicago. The leather starts as a rich, dark java brown color with a glossy waxed finish. This durable waxy coat makes this leather extremely durable and water-resistant. However, this glossy finish will scratch and scuff away with wear, revealing a roughout surface texture with a lighter, warmer color tone.

Waxed flesh is a great leather option for those who don’t want to worry too much about leather maintenance. Other than a quick brush down every once in a while, I have yet to apply any conditioner to my boots.

Unboxing & Initial Impressions

Unfortunately, when I first received these boots I had no intention of ever writing a review for them, and thus did not take very detailed photos. However, by looking at the photos I did take (and comparing to how they look now), these boots were constructed and finished very nicely. The stitching on the uppers appears to be very clean and neat, and the patterns are symmetrical between the left and right boots.

Straight from the box, these boots felt like tanks. The chunky commando sole gave them significant weight and made them feel very rugged and sturdy. The leather was fairly thick and stiff with a waxy gloss finish, making it feel like armor when trying them on for the first time.

One area that I wish Truman had done a little cleaner is the two rows of stitchdown welt stitching. The spacing between the two rows is a bit inconsistent, with the outer row being a little wiggly in some places. It isn’t bad by any means. There are no loose stitches and the stitch density appears fairly consistent all around (I’ve seen far sloppier welt stitching out there on Instagram). That being said, I have no complaints about the durability and functionality of the stitchdown construction on these Trumans. I have no doubt that this welt stitching would far outlast the life of the commando soles, and will present no issues with resoling when the time comes.

I admit, I have been told that I place a higher emphasis on the cleanliness and finishing of my boots than most (I blame Jake, @almostvintagestyle). I’ve come to appreciate the extremely precise and uniform stitching I’ve seen on boots by custom boot makers such as Rizky (@onderhoud.handmade), Peng (@flamepanda11), and Goto-San of White Kloud (@show_goto). I acknowledge that the precision and uniformity of a boot’s welt stitching mostly just aesthetics and has little effect on the durability/longevity of a boot (as long as it doesn’t fall apart or any cause issues with resoling in the future). However, I still believe that how cleanly a boot is constructed speaks to the craftsmanship and overall attention to detail of the boot maker, making me proud to own, wear, and post photos of their work.

(The very clean and uniform welt stitching on my Onderhoud derbies.)

1 Year & 139 Wears Later

As the header states, I have worn these Java Waxed Flesh boots 139 times over the past year (actually 11 months, but as the world is currently closed due to COVID-19, these boots probably won’t be worn much more over the next month anyway). The waxed flesh leather has broken in significantly and is much more flexible and comfortable. However, the leather still feels very thick and rugged, especially in comparison to my other smoothout leather boots. I admit, these are not my most comfortable pair. Even fully broken in, this waxed flesh leather is not nearly as comfortable as the Aubergine Horserump used on my other pair of Trumans (which were soft and pliable from the start). However, these javas are definitely my most heavy-duty boots. I feel like I could go into battle with these while still maintaining that slimmer, service boot silhouette.

You can tell by the rolls and creases in the leather that the leather has conformed nicely to my feet. Also, at this angle you can really see the uneven, asymmetric, and wiggly welt stitching that I mentioned previously (especially on the outside of the right boot).

Here is a top-down view of the toe shape of the P-79 last in size 11EE (wide).

As I stated earlier, these boots are rugged tanks and can withstand quite a beating. However, being a dentist living in the suburbs, I don’t subject these boots (or any of my boots really) to the outdoor manual labor for which they were built. The smooth waxy coating has only really scuffed away in areas of high flexure (where my toes crease and around the neck of the boot where I wrap my laces). Other than that, the majority of the boots still maintain the glossy shine, even after nearly 140 wears.

Looking back, one thing that I might’ve changed is getting a dainite instead of the commando sole. I opted for the commando sole because I felt like it complemented the rugged aesthetic of the waxed flesh leather. However, as these boots are worn mostly at work in a dental office and walking casually around Target, the functional traction the commando soles provide has had little use for me. I actually prefer the dainite soles of my other Truman boots, as my feet feel more balanced and sturdy on the ground. (This may be because the width of the commando sole actually in contact with the ground is significantly narrower than my feet, as you can see in the photo above.) Ultimately, this is still just my personal preference. There is nothing wrong with the commando sole used by Truman. When the time comes for a resole, I’ll probably send them to Brian at Role Club for some half soles and a low woodsman heel.

I’ve read online that some people find the heel (counter) of Truman boots to be bulbous and wide, resulting in some heel slip. Personally I haven’t had any issues with the heel.

While my boot collection is still fairly small, I can definitely say that I prefer unstructured over structured toe boxes. I absolutely love the silhouette of a boot after the leather has broken in and the toe has fully collapsed, conforming to the shape of the owner’s foot. The toe boxes of these Trumans have partially collapsed, and I look forward to seeing how they continue to mold to my feet in the future.

Conclusion

Overall, I am very happy with the construction quality of these boots by Truman, as well as how they’ve broken in over the past year. They are by far the most rugged boot I own (other than my Red Wing Iron Rangers), and would be my first choice should I ever need to do anything outdoors (like hike, or go camping, or whatever). The waxed finish of the leather still has a lot of life to it (I’m guessing, based on the amount of sheen still left on the boot), and I look forward to see how they look after another year of wear.

In the Wild

Below, I’ve compiled a few extra photos I’ve taken of these Java Waxed Flesh boots as I’ve broken them in over the past year. For more photos of these boots, as well as the rest of my denim and boots collection, please check out my Instagram (@thedenimdentist).

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tevinternet · 5 years

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I commissioned @kloud for a portrait of the character I’m playing in our Dragon Heist game. Her name is Eden Khorra, she’s a fire genasi Divine Soul sorcerer. Aesthetically she’s all about fire. Not pictured are markings along her torso that resemble flames. Her spells however - with the exception of racial traits - are healing and cold damage spells. I love her.

#dungeons and dragons #dnd #dnd 5e #eden khorra #fire genasi #sorcerer

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bluvira · 6 years

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Hey my dudes I just wanted to make a list of side blogs I have.

@bluart - my art blog

@kingofthe-klouds - an aesthetic blog

@getting-the-creeps - creepypasta blog

@ma-julian - the arcana blog

I also have a nsfw blog, just send an ask if y'all want that and I'll answer it privately.

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picturesque-boards-blog · 7 years

Photo

Soft

An OC aesthetic board, Aria & Kloude, for @gayofnerds and @my-broken-babies

#Aesthetic #aesthetic board #moodboard #love #personal

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kevindurkiin · 5 years

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Billboard Uncovers The Stories Behind All Your Favorite Masked DJs

Daft Punk, deadmau5, Marshmello… Some of the greatest, most recognizable dance music icons have made it to the top wearing a mask — and the stories behind them are just as intriguing as their aesthetic.

Billboard unmasks some of the world’s most elusive DJs in a new feature story, 11 DJs Who Wear Masks and the Stories Behind Them. From Marshmello’s playful bucket-shaped head to Claptone‘s shiny, golden disguise, from Malaa‘s menacing ski mask to Daft Punk’s robot helmets — these are some of the top masked DJs to ever grace the decks.

Maybe it’s the mystery behind these artists that attract listeners or perhaps we’re all suckers for a good gimmick. But we truly believe these legends living behind their privacy shields are beyond talented and deserve recognition for their music.

Allow us to introduce the artists behind the masks. Also, check out Billboard‘s full snapshot here.

1788-L: Not included in the Billboard article, but just as important right now. 1788-L burst onto the scene out of nowhere in February 2018 with a bootleg flip of Virtual Self’s “Particle Arts.” Since then, the mystery producer has released two EPs on Deadbeats, played Red Rocks, and collaborated with Blanke, Rezz, Illenium and more.

Bloody Beetroots: Having previously performed as a duo, Sir Bob Cornelius Rifo heads up the project and the masks have undergone a number of redesigns over the years. Most fans would spot the Venom-like MIDI-controlled LED eyes from a mile away. More recently, his mask has sported message “NO” in plain letters — but the message behind this remains a mystery. What we do know is that Rifo couldn’t give two shits about fame.

Claptone: Claptone has gained massive recognition in the techno scene, though his identity remains completely unknown. According to Billboard, the mask is modeled after Black Death “beak masks” worn by Medieval doctors during the Plague of 1656. The reasoning behind the mask seems authentic — “We all wear masks,” Claptone once explained to DJ Mag. “The single purpose of being Claptone is to touch people.”

Daft Punk: When you think of masked DJs, this dynamic duo is probably the first that comes to mind. Created by special effects artist Tony Gardner, these helmets were truly ahead of their time and transformed Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel De Homem-Christo into robotic, dance music heroes. Just try to name a more iconic masked duo — we’ll wait.

Danger: From one masked dance act to another, the disguise for this project was inspired by none other than Daft Punk and their robotic helmets. However, he based the distinct look off a character from Final Fantasy. Franck Rivoire’s lifelong obsession with comic books and video games translates into music and design seamlessly with his black mask and glowing eyes. Putting this on, he becomes his alter ego by night and appreciates the “absence of expression” it holds.

deadmau5: Most of us can probably recognize deadmau5 aka Joel Zimmerman with or without his mau5 head on. Back in the day, he used a mouse head for a logo when he worked as a freelance web designer. After doing some work on their website, Jay Gordon of industrial metal band Orgy suggested he wear a mouse helmet on stage, should he ever pursue his career as an electronic musician. The rest is history.

Kloud: This mystery project claims to be a source of artificial intelligence. The backstory plays out through music videos, as the music entity breaks free from the evil grips of Kloud (a corporation that thrives off mining the intelligence of mankind). This narrative boasts a cyber world of self-expression and truly endless possibilities. The future is now and there’s no telling what kind of masked DJs we’ll encounter next.

Malaa: Who is Malaa? The world may never know. This guy never talks on the mic or breaks character under any circumstance. Closely associated acts like Tchami, DJ Snake, and Mercer aren’t letting on either. His mystery identity counters his instantly recognizable ghetto house flair, which has taken over the scene along with his “bad boy” image. Malaa’s straight up black ski mask is in line with popular street wear and has even become a staple in his merchandise line.

Marshmello: From mystery DJ to global sensation, Marshmello is living proof that even the simplest of masks can take a brand to the next level. His manager, Moe Shalizi, says it stands for something much deeper — a universal message of acceptance. The same theme plays out in many of his music videos. Nevertheless, the mask can be attributed to much of Marshmello’s success.

Noise Cans: This distinctive mask is a strong nod to the artist’s Gombey tradition and represents a mix of African, indigenous peoples, Caribbean and British cultures. His fondest childhood memories involve running to the streets to hear banging drums and dancing for hours. During these celebrations, the musicians would wear similar masks and headdresses. The project name and look upholds these memories. “The mask is culture, vibe, energy,” he says. “It allows you to create and feel as free as you want to be.”

SBTRKT: The neon-tribal mask references this London-based artist’s childhood in Kenya, meant to bridge old cultures and new. Building off colors, patterns, and messages from ancient societies, SBTRKT presents a vibrant identity all his own. However, just as elusive as the project itself, the designer and visual art director behind the mask remains anonymous.

Slow Magic: This DJs tribal mask is friendly and approachable — your real life “imaginary friend.” Slow Magic is known for jumping into crowds to drum in the pit during his live, interactive shows. Removing his identity from the mix, there is a certain type of magic happening here, allowing fans to focus on the music. The artist behind the mask believes escape is a form of expression.

Photo via Rukes.com

This article was first published on Your EDM. Source: Billboard Uncovers The Stories Behind All Your Favorite Masked DJs

Billboard Uncovers The Stories Behind All Your Favorite Masked DJs published first on https://soundwizreview.tumblr.com/

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bluebuzzmusic · 5 years

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Billboard Uncovers The Stories Behind All Your Favorite Masked DJs

Allow us to introduce the artists behind the masks. Also, check out Billboard‘s full snapshot here.

Photo via Rukes.com

This article was first published on Your EDM. Source: Billboard Uncovers The Stories Behind All Your Favorite Masked DJs

source https://www.youredm.com/2019/07/30/11-masked-dj-stories/

#edm #music #music production #music news #edm news

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angelica-cj · 2 years

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KLOUD fan animation

Content Warning: FLASHING LIGHTS. For creative and entertainment purposes only.

Dark techno has corrupted my ears, and I'm enjoying it.

#kloud #edm #robots #software gore #malfunction aesthetic #fan art #my art #digital art #animation #angelicacj

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skumjpg · 7 years

Audio

(Pink Klouds Rising)

bigger than aesthetic

#SoundCloud #music #Pink Klouds Rising #Freestyle #YAKAY #pink klouds rising #Moombahton #bigger than aesthetic

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thedenimdentist · 4 years

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Onderhoud Handmade: Order Process, Unboxing & First Impression

Introduction

Hello! My name is Jeff (IG: @thedenimdentist). I am a 30-something year old Bay Area native, who has recently found an interest in heritage menswear. I am writing this in response to several inquiries regarding one of my more recent purchases: the LVL01 derby by Onderhoud (IG: @onderhoud.handmade). Under no circumstance would I consider myself exceptionally knowledgeable in the area of leather or boots. However, I thought it’d be helpful to provide my experience working with Onderhoud, as the brand is still relatively unknown. That being said, please be patient if any of my explanations or descriptions are incorrect, and any feedback would be much appreciated!

Onderhoud: The Brand

Onderhoud Handmade is a boot brand based in Indonesia (Sukagalih, Bandung). The brand is owned by Rizky, who makes all boots and shoes by hand. Rizky does have one other man helping him with fabricating the uppers, but from hand-lasting to edge trim Rizky does on his own.

Sizing Process

Sizing for boots/shoes is always complicated, especially when your feet are as oddly shaped and painful as mine. First, I have pretty large bunions on the outside of my feet making them very wide. Second, and the balls of my feet are extra bony, which forces me to use full length memory foam insoles in any shoes or boots I wear.

For someone with as complicated feet as me, being custom measured in person would be ideal. However, as Onderhoud is based in Indonesia, meeting in person was not an option. Thus, I explained all this to Rizky through DMs on Instagram, as well as provided him with these images of my foot measurements (note the bunion on the outside of my foot):

With this information, Rizky recommended I get a size 44E, where he would add a little extra width in my bunion areas. This size would allot space for my full length memory foam insole. For reference, I listed my sizes in other brand boots below (all of which I wear with my full length insoles).

Onderhoud - 44E

Red Wing, Iron Ranger - 9.5EE

Truman Boot Company - 11EE

Viberg (1035 last) - 10.5

(Note: This is a photo of my collection of Trumans and my Iron Rangers, unrelated to my brand sizing information.)

4.5 weeks after my initial deposit, Rizky sent me these photos, including a shot of my custom last:

Rizky did not give me any options in terms of last or toe shape, but from his photos on Instagram I was already happy with the toe shapes of the LVL01 derbies he has made in the past. He also offers a structured, more bulbous toe shape, which he typically uses on more rugged boots.

Leather Options

The default leather options are combination tanned pull up leathers sourced from an unnamed Indonesian tannery. These leathers are the most affordable, with boots/shoes usually priced in the $200-300 range. However, I chose to upgrade to an Italian vegtan leather (Badalassi Carlo Minerva in cognac). While it does come with an upgrade fee, I believe it is well worth it. For instance, upgrading these derbies from a default Indonesian leather to the Badalassi leather bumped the cost up from $260 to $400 ($420 after shipping/processing fees).

I am unsure as to all the options Rizky has to offer, as he is still trying to add to his premium leather options. I do know that he has offered vegtan cowhide leathers from the Italian Badalassi Carlo tannery, as well as some vegtan horserump leathers from the Italian Maryam tannery. If you’re interested in upgrading, just ask Rizky via Instagram DM for all his current options.

Customization

The specifications for my build are listed below:

MTO LVL01 low cut derby boot

Size 44E Badalassi Carlo Minerva cognac leather Gusseted tongue Unstructured toe 270 degree Veldtschoen construction 360 degree hand welt Matching welt leather Natural upper stitching White welt stitching Single leather midsole Natural edge finish Brown cork supergrip half sole and Cuban/curved heels

Rizky offers so many ways to customize your boots. Some notable ones I’ve listed below:

Structured vs. unstructured toe

Veldtschoen construction (double row stitchdown), flat goodyear welt, storm welt (all of which can be 270 or 360 degrees)

Single vs. double leather midsoles

Vertical vs. Cuban/curved heels

Other than the fee to upgrade the leather, there were no other fees for any of the customizations I requested.

Payment and Waiting Period

The cost of these derbies was $400 with a $20 Paypal fee, totalling $420. Rizky asks for a 50% deposit, with the remaining 50% due upon completion.

I placed my $210 deposit on 10/25/2019. Rizky quoted that my derbies would be completed in 6-8 weeks (which is relatively quick for MTO boots). What really made the wait easier (even possibly enjoyable) are the update photos Rizky would send throughout the production of my shoes. Here are just a few (not all):

My derbies were completed on 12/20/2019, which is exactly 8 weeks from deposit to completion. I quickly paid the remaining $210 and Rizky shipped out the boots the following Monday 12/23/2019. They arrived here in California on 01/02/2020 (10 days later).

Note: I believe that Onderhoud sales have increased since I placed this order, as Rizky has gained some attention on Instagram. Wait times had jumped up to 8-12 weeks last I had checked (which, again, is still very reasonable), but make sure to ask before placing your order. For perspective, I placed a deposit on some Role Clubs back on 10/15/2019 that aren’t due to be finished until November 2020 (13 months), and the White Klouds I ordered on 12/07/2019 aren’t due until Summer 2021 (18 months).

Packaging

The package arrived pretty squished. However, Rizky did what he could to limit the damage, as the box was fully covered in bubble wrapping, and each shoe came in its own individual shoe bag.

The shoes came laced with round cord waxed laces. The box also included two additional pairs of laces: a second pair of round cord waxed laces, and a pair of leather laces.

Fit/Comfort

As Jake (IG: @almostvintagestyle) often points out, fit and comfort is quite subjective. However, the fact that Onderhoud boots are made-to-measure does make fit and comfort a factor, as it speaks to the ability of the bootmaker to create a comfortable and well-fitting boot with given parameters.

While these Onderhouds haven’t gotten much wear yet, I can say for a fact that these are now the most comfortable pair of boots/shoes I own, hands down (granted, they’re also my first pair made-to-measure). As I stated earlier, my bunions are always where I feel the most rubbing/pressure in boots that are too narrow, resulting in extreme pain and discomfort with wear. However, the alterations Rizky made to the E last made the forefront of these derbies fit very comfortably, removing all rubbing/pressure on my bunions without making my foot feel like it is swimming in the toe box.

The derbies are fully lined and come with full length sock liners atop the leather insoles. These both add a little extra cushion and comfort during wear, which I appreciate.

I was a little hesitant with the sizing because of the difficulties I’ve had in the past, but Rizky did an AMAZING job with the information I provided him. (I have actually already placed an order for a second pair of Onderhoud boots using the same size/last).

Leather - Badalassi Carlo Minerva, Cognac

This is my first experience with any Badalassi Carlo leather. This Italian vegtan cowhide has a very rich, warm, orange-y brown tone with a very mild sheen. There was one blemish in the leather upon arrival: a few scratches to the right toe.

Rizky noticed these scratches in some of the photos I posted on Instagram, and asked me about them before I had even had a chance to say anything. He says the scratches in the leather were not there when he shipped them, and proposed they may have occurred during transit. (Although, I’m not sure how that would’ve happened, as each shoe was protected in its own individual shoe bag.) Regardless, the scratch is fairly minor and shallow, and will most likely become even less noticeable once the rest of the leather breaks in and begins to patina.

Finishing

The attention to detail when it comes to the upper stitching is superb. After full inspection, I couldn’t find a single loose thread or stitch out of place. See the photos for yourself.

One aspect of the stitching that I’d like to showcase is the double row of stitches of the 270 degree Veldtschoen construction. I love how uniform each stitch is, and how each one is slightly angled. I admit, I’m no expert in stitchdown construction, but I just really love the aesthetics of it. (Rizky also offers other forms of welting, including flat goodyear welt and storm welt.)

Being fully transparent, while the double welt stitching is impeccable, there are a few wonky channel stitches on the underside of the right boot. This issue is purely cosmetic (if even, as it’s on the bottom of the sole and not visible during wear) and likely has no affect on its function or durability.

One other little thing I feel obligated to point out is that there are a few markings left behind from constructing the upper. These marks are barely noticeable and can most likely be removed with a quick rub down. I have no gripes with them, but just something I thought I’d point out with regards to finishing and presentation.

Midsole and Sole

With these derbies, I went with a single leather midsole, brown cork Dr. Sole Supergrip half soles/heels, with a Cuban/curved heel and natural edge finish. It should be noted that this style of heel is actually called a woodsman heel, as a Cuban heel actually doesn’t curve as it angles from welt to sole. That being said, I really love Rizky’s take on the curved heel, with the strong inward angle toward the top welt becoming almost vertical toward the sole. It’s shape is really unique and adds some subtle yet strong character to the derby’s silhouette.

This is my first experience with the brown cork Dr. Sole half soles and heels, but aesthetically I believe they blend well the warm brown tones of the upper and midsole leathers. Rizky also has other sole options, including black Dr. Sole and Vibram full and half soles.

The finish on the sole has a slight, soft gloss--nothing like the high shine finish that Goto-San of White Kloud (IG: @show_goto) produces, but a beautiful even finish nonetheless. There is a slight rough lip at the edge of one of the heel caps, but this will disappear as the soles wear in, so no big deal.

Conclusion

Overall, I am more than ecstatic with out these Onderhoud LVL01 derbies turned out. From our chats on Instagram, Rizky sounds like a stand up guy running an honest business, producing quality handmade boots. His English skills are pretty good, and is willing to listen to your requests, answer all of your (annoying) questions, and work with you in order to build the exact boot you want.

Again, I admit that my experience with handmade, quality boots is still fairly limited, as all I have to compare against are my Red Wings, Trumans, and Viberg boots. Thus, if you’re still skeptical of my limited boot knowledge, I tried to provided a bajillion photos of these derbies from all angles, so you can draw your own conclusions on the quality of Rizky’s work.

If you have any other questions or comments, feel free to contact me via Instagram @thedenimdentist. Or better yet, ask Rizky himself @onderhoud.handmade. haha

Thanks! And goodnight.

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