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celluloidbroomcloset · 3 months

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To add my two cents about episode 8 and Calico Jack.

Stede's attitude always seemed peculiar to me (some call Stede jealous and while I think there's some truth to it, it's still a little unfair considering his past) I had the feeling that he was trigger and this is particularly due to the fact that quite a few elements of the episode echo his past as a victim of bully.

There is no flashback during this episode but it is a trigger atmosphere that Stede gave me.

Destruction of one's belongings (things that bullies do for fun), passive aggression and inability to defend himself (Big gal, Steve, pirate in store or something), hurtful activities (whipping, jumping off the boat, crabbing and the turtle which directly touches on violence against animals, something of which Stede seems particularly sensitive, the throwing of coconuts which can immediately be compared to the stoning and the boat of the pilot, and the death of Karl), the colors of the Stede's outfit is similar to the outfit he wore in the pilot's flashback with Nigel, and we can even see flowers embroidered on it.

It's for this reason that I somehow consider Calico Jack to be more vicious than Izzy, the latter is so annoying that we see him coming as a big jerk. While Calico Jack is so fun and playful that his abuse is toned down to "it's okay, it's just games" and as a result Stede comes across as the killjoy.

It’s for these kinds of reasons that at times the fandom gives me mixed vibes when it comes to Stede. I feel like there’s always this need to take him down one way or another. "That he never does anything right", "that he is always the one in the wrong" and that he will never win in the fandom...

(But hey, that’s more of a personal feeling than anything else, I have the unfortunate tendency to overinterpret so if this little gibberish makes no sense you can ignore it 😅)

In short nothing else to add, I love your blog and your metas on the serie in general ! ❤

I don't think Stede is jealous. He's seeing things slipping away from him and it's challenging his masculinity and his friendships. He's building something meaningful and he sees Jack coming in and trying to destroy it, bit by bit, in the way that Nigel and other bullies destroyed his peace in picking flowers.

Jack is insidious and he's designed to be. Izzy's hatred of Stede is very open and it's easy to see clearly. Jack hides behind that frat boy image; he's this apparently charming buffoon who knows exactly how to hurt people where it will do the most damage. And I do think Stede himself recognizes that, in a way that Ed can't because Ed has been accustomed to play along rather than resist. Ed's never been at the receiving end of bullies like Jack because he protects himself by playing with them instead of resisting them. The cracks in that show really early on because he's suddenly seeing that bullying directed at someone he loves, and it comes home to him increasingly that what is happening is not OK and not really justifiable, as hard as he tries to justify it. He tries to resist ("I've mellowed a bit"), but Jack won't let him. I think by the end, Ed sees Jack for what he is and also believes that's all he deserves, because he's brought pain and violence to Stede and Stede's ship. Ed is not having fun.

And Stede does stand up to Jack, quite unequivocally, nor does he walk it back when Ed decides to leave as well.

But I am also really bothered by how blame keeps being shifted onto Stede, like the kid who gets pushed down should have done something to avoid being pushed down. Or should just laugh it off.

#ofmd #stede bonnet #calico jack #edward teach #ofmd meta

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yanderepuck · 1 year

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I'm going to tell you how I made Michelangelo's cape!

In case you don't know Michelangelo is @weird-profiterole's oc. And we decided to send each other goodies from our country. Well I decided that as a surprise I'm making her Michelangelo's cape!

This is what I have to go off of. I would add a pic directly but I respect wifey and won't repost her art. But that post gives details about her oc and details of the cape.

At the time of starting it she didn't have the back designed at all. Just constellations that Michelangelo embroidered himself onto the cape.

SO WHAT DID I DECIDE TO DO?

The whole arctic circle

I divided all the constellations into 10 manageable sections. Anything in the most inner circle wouldn't fit however. I did move the Big Dipper down to be able to add it however.

Side note: Michelangelo's cape is NOT A CIRCLE CAPE. But since there wasn't a back to the cape, I had to make a creative decision, and since I didn't want Marine to know about it, I couldn't ask questions. But I figured it wouldn't be too much of an issue. He has more than one cape after all.

So I make all 10 sections into embroidery files. I draw them out myself with the template above to get all the placement correct. I even pulled out my astronomy notes from 11th grade to look at my star chart and relearned how to read it and everything.

Then I got the fabric. Just a white polyester satin. Something light with a nice drape. But here came the fun and time consuming part. DYING IT.

Now I love to dye fabric. LOVE. But a dark blue to a bright yellow with a minimal amount of green? I knew it wasn't going to be easy. So I cut out my circle like you would a circle skirt. The diameter being about 50 inches. Then I start with the the yellow.

Great, looks good. Then I wash it to get the excess dye it and it becomes a pale yellow. I need something vibrant. So I do it again. And again. And again. And again. And again eight more times. Finally I get it tot he point where I'm good with so I flip it around to do the blue. Well guess what I discovered. Blue dye is really purple. I knew black dye was purple, but I didn't know blue dye was.

Keep in mind I'm using Rite Dye Synthetic. I've never had luck with this dye but I gave it the benefit of the doubt. I shouldn't have. I have All Purpose Rite Dye in a few shades of blue and I do a small test. Those are all purple as well. Now I've already dyed the "blue" part about 4 times at this point and I'm wondering if it just won't take any more dye. But I know that's not the case. I've dyed enough fabric to know that's not the case.

My process is that I dye it for around an hour or two, moving it in the pot about every 15-20 minutes to make sure to get an even gradient. Then I hang it up to dry it, next day I wash it by hand in cool soapy water to get the extra dye out, and then it comes out too pale.

I made a few oopsies along the way, like forgetting to wet all the fabric , meaning the blue went too far into the yellow, ruining the yellow, so I then had to redye the yellow. I once washed the blue three times and then on the fourth washed the whole thing at once (I only wash by hand) and the yellow got a green ting to it.

A month and a half go by and I'm repeating the dye-dry-wash-dry pattern everyday. Then I finally realize I'm going to have to use IDye Poly. Which I knew I should have used to begin with.

Side note: the lines are a lot harder on camera than irl.

IDye Poly is what I recommend using when dying anything. The color is EXACTLY what it is on package, but its a powder, so you have to use all of it, and it SMELLS. Oh fuck it smells. They say to use the stove top method but I just put boiling hot water in a metal pot then put the fabric in. I dyed the yellow twice and it was the perfect shade.

Now for the blue. I knew the blue was really a blue and not a purple. I used that blue before. But to make sure it was as dark as I wanted it to be, I put half the amount of water in and the whole packet of dye and stirred it up. The lines were harsh at first but while dying I also run water over it to clean up the lines. The blue took about four dye rounds and it was finally at the point where I could be happy with it. I wish it was a little darker, but the transition is just how I want it. Because even thought its an ombre, I need a minimal amount of green.

TWO MONTHS LATER and I finally get this

There was some messy party once I unfolded it all but I told myself ITS FINE. REMEMBER ITS THE FUCKING RENAISSANCE. The blue is darker irl than int he picture.

So then I cover it in interfacing to draw out placement lines. This is when I remembered that I haven't even tested my embroidery files yet. I could have been doing that while I was dying the fabric. But I think part of me was scared that this was going to fail and I didn't want to get too deep, even though two months of dying a single piece of fabric is a little deep.

So I got out a Pfaff Creative Icon 2 and uploaded my files and started embroidering.

I then cut them out, laid out the cape and started placing them. I knew I was going to have to make some of the files bigger because I wasn't quite sure what I was doing when making them, but I knew I was going to test them so it was okay.

There are only four that really need to be enlarged, but I did make all of them bigger to fill in some gaps. The harsh line in the front is where the opening is going to be.

So after fixing the files and a seven hour day at work it is all embroidered!

Each dot takes about a minute each, plus then the lines connecting all of them. There are some awkward empty spots and I was going to fill them in with stand alone dots/stars, but I decided not to since they weren't on the star chart.

Now I had to rip all the stabilizer off and trim all the threads. Kiki decided she wanted to help

I decided to line it with a pale yellow broadcloth to encase the edges, stitched along the edges to keep it from turning over and then I had the white strips in the front to add. I just used the same fabric since I had extra and since it was white.

You can't tell on camera but after ironing the fabric the color in some areas got darker. It's fairly subtle but I tried to iron the whole thing lightly to even out the color, luckily it darkened the color rather than lightening it.

Now all I had was the tassels and rope. I got it laid out how I wanted it but then didn't have a clue how to attach it, plus the ends of the rope kept fraying and burning the edges gave it a burnt look, plus it was untwisting. So I wrapped a gold embroidery thread about it, and then coated that in a fabric glue so there wasn't much of a chance of it coming undone. I put a button on the back of the cape so that it wouldn't pull at the fabric when I attached it.

AND THEN ITS DONE!

I think the file is too big, but I have a video of it that I will link to show you a 360 look of it.

AND IF YOU READ THIS FAR THANK YOU.

(at the time of writing this I'm praying the package get's to Marine safely)

Shoutout to @lulu-the-smol-floof @legalize-arson @ivoryclive for dealing with all the picture spams and ranting about how worried I was through this whole project

#ikevamp #ikemen vampire #ikevamp oc #ikevamp michelangelo #astrology #fashion #costume design #fashion design #long post #sorry its so long #i really didn't think it would end up being so long #but there's also a lot of pictures

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20dollarlolita · 2 years

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What's the cheapest machine that could be used to make iron on patches with more than one color? Is there anything specific needed for that or would most machines be able to?

Some machines are going to be better than others for this. My store is kind of interesting in that we just flat out do not sell any budget embroidery machines. Our cheapest one is that $1500 one. While I have approximate knowledge of many sewing machines, the only ones I have serious knowledge of are the ones in my line.

So I can't say models specifically, but I can tell you what I suggest when people say that they're making patches.

The first thing isn't actually punch power, though that is what most people assume would be the first concern. The first concern is how well the machine can adapt between thick and thing embroidery materials in the same project.

I'm not going to use model names because I don't want this blog coming up in google results for these machines, so we'll call them the 35, 40, and 50 since those are the numbers in their names and that should let you find them without me pinging google. For reference, I have the 50 but would definitely own a much cheaper machine if I didn't get it through a heavy discount applied for being part of the team. The next up from the 50, which is the 85, is eleven thousand dollars, so we're going to call that out of the price range for reasons that should be obvious to any 5-year-old who just got their first copy of Monopoly Jr.

Anyway, the 40 and the 50 come default with a floating embroidery foot, which is good for most applications. The machine has a sensor in the foot that tells them machine how thick the fabric is, and it uses that to hold the foot just a few mm above the work. I use my floating foot for things when I need to switch back and forth between embroidery and sewing a lot, because the floating foot just goes onto the ankle like a regular foot, and the other embroidery foot that we'll discuss later involves taking the ankle all the way off.

But, there's a price. When the machine detects that the fabric is too thick, it will raise the foot up to accommodate that. This is a good feature and I like it. The problem is that it won't put the foot back down, because it can't sense the fabric getting thinner. It has to touch the fabric to know that it's too thick and if it's gone up to accommodate that it can't touch the fabric because it went up to not touch the fabric. The cross hatch fill that I did on those lace collars on t-shirts were annoying with the floating foot, because every time it went over the shoulder seam, it would raise the foot. The foot needs to be on or very near the fabric to make a good stitch, so I kept having to stop and restart the machine to tell it to put its damn foot back down.

Patches are thick, and if you're making them standalone and not embroidering them directly onto the fabric, they have a big gap in thickness between the edge of the patch and the edge of the stabilizer in the hoop, so the machine really needs to have a setting where the foot touches the fabric every time the needle it down.

Conveniently, while "the foot must touch the fabric when the needle is down" is an old problem that has been solved long before the computerization of machines, and that's the spring-action foot. This is a $45 addition to the 40 and 50, which is really quite cheap by my store's standards, and it really helps. This specific spring action foot also works with the same sensors in the machine ankle to make much more accurate adjustments for fabric depth.

The 35 doesn't have that sensor system, so it can't use the floating foot. Its spring action embroidery foot also doesn't sense fabric thickness, but it is a spring action embroidery foot, which is the basics of what we need here.

So, spring action embroidery foot that can easily move between thick and thin materials is thing #1 I'd look for in making patches.

The second thing also relates to making patches, and that's punch power. You can basically assume that any patch you make has to have most of the following layers: stabilizer to hoop the design, iron-on web to stick it onto something, fabric for the backing of the patch, pattern fill stitches for the colors, satin stitching for the outlines, and the large satin stitch around the outside. That's some layers. The difficulty your machine might have for sewing through this can depend on what you're making these layers out of. Heat n Bond ultra is WAY thicker than anyone expects it to be. That's why they say it's a no-sew bond. If your patches are backed in vinyl, that's going to be harder to go through than felt. If your design has a very dense pattern fill, that will add to the sandwich.

So yes, you will need a machine that has a motor to allow it to continuously go through this big bundle for several minutes. You'll find some home sewing machines that will say they go through 9 layers of denim, but when you sew the 9 layers, you hear a knocking sound. This is usually okay for sewing, because the amount of time you are sewing through that thickness is generally pretty small, and you're not sewing it continuously. Your embroidery machine doesn't take breaks like that. It's not sewing thick materials in small spurts. It's going to have to punch through that sandwich repeatedly for the entire duration that the patch is being assembled. As such, it does need a stronger motor than you'd need to sew a similar amount of fabric on a standard machine.

You can adapt to this to accommodate a mildly weaker motor. You can add the fusible glue as the last thing, make a point to decrease the density on your pattern fills, and so on, but if you're just doing patches then having a machine that won't let you design patches without filling very specific limitations doesn't seem like a wise choice.

So, does it have the horsepower to continuously go through thick layers of fabric for the length of time that it takes to stitch out a patch is going to be #2.

Then we get into some other things that are sort of optional but really matter when you are doing this.

How many patches can you fit in a hoop? If you're making patches to sell, it's really going to come out cheaper to get a machine that can fit 8-10 patches in a hoop instead of just one. You will spend less money on stabilizer, less money on thread, and a whole lot less labor to be able to stick eight patches in a hoop instead of doing eight separate hoopings.

On the other hand, some machines won't accept any hoop but their default. Some machines with a 5x7 hoop will not take a 4x4. If you're only doing one patch at a time, having to use enough stabilizer for a 7x14 hoop is just not a good deal for you. What kinds of accessories it's compatible with should be a consideration.

Is it a sewing/embroidery combo, and if it is, do you want/will you use it as a sewing machine? I use my embroidery machine as an embroidery machine and for fancy decorative stitching, and use a Singer from 1988 as my main sewing machine. Even if your embroidery machine will do straight stitching, you can't use it for sewing while it's embroidering a project. How much multitasking do you want to do? If the answer is "not a lot", then you can look at machines that don't do sewing. When you're at the very cheap end of the spectrum, an embroidery machine that doesn't sew usually works better than an embroidery and sewing combo. Once you get to the $1000 price point, however, an embroidery only and a embroidery combo generally have the same-ish quality level.

And on the flip side, how much storage do you have? If you only have enough space for one machine, you absolutely should have a sewing/embroidery combo, so that you don't need to keep track of and store two different machines. If you're looking for a combo machine, you should definitely take into account everything that the sewing machine does. Look into it and see if you'd buy it as a standalone sewing machine, or if it's missing features that you'd normally find critical.

Now, another thing to look at. There's sort of two kinds of embroidery machine people, who we're going to call Sil and Pla since that's a shortening of the two softwares that we sell. Which kind of embroidery you're interested in will impact what machine you want. Sil users usually take premade designs and combine them, often with text and frames and similar things, to create designs. Example:

Please not that I'm making these examples in like 45 seconds.

You can then stitch this out on a shirt, give it to your sister who loves dogs, and she can pretend that she likes it and wear it once for pictures that she takes in her own house and then puts it in a drawer and occasionally laughs about how weird it is to her friends.

I mean. Cherish it and appreciate it.

There's a lot of validity in this style of embroidery. For example, my friend borrowed my machine to make a butterfly montage with the lyrics to Born A Worm on it. She didn't digitize the butterflies or the font, but she made her friend something unique that definitely cannot be bought in a store.

If you're making stuff like this, you really want to look into what kind of designs are available and how much they cost. You would also need to look into what kind of licensing you need, since it's definitely fine to send a friend a pillow with profane song lyrics on it but it's probably not advised to sell that premade butterfly montage*.

_____ *I believe embroidery designs do NOT fall under the intended usage loophole. Intended uses allows you to sell a skirt made with a copyrighted fabric or made from a commercially made pattern, but doesn't allow you to reproduce and sell a design that you didn't have rights to reproduce for sale. I haven't fact checked this but I believe this is how it works based on the last time I fact checked this stuff.

Pla embroiders usually want tools that will allow them to make their own stuff from scratch, or to heavily modify existing designs. Usually, if you want to make patches, this is where you're looking at going.

Sil software gives you much less in terms of tools than what Pla does, and this is going to impact your sewing.

For example, if you already have a patch blank, a file of the Michigan state flag, and a file of Snom, and you want to put them together, you might really need a machine that will allow you to combine three designs on the machine itself, without opening the software. You will want a machine where things like color blocks are very clear and input and navigation are easy to understand.

You will also need a machine that's more powerful, because you cannot optimize your design. Your machine will stitch the patch blank, then the Michigan flag, then Snom, without concern for how the individual pieces overlap and lie. By the end you'll need a machine that can go through all the patch fabric and several layers of stitching.

Pla kind of digitizing needs a lot more control of things. I did the ship and the hands by placing a bunch of vector point and then choosing which fill stitches I wanted. The clock rim was a circle that I could pick a specific repeating motif on the outside. I didn't digitize the numbers, and I made the software assemble them into that perfect circle (shh i know its off center). Sometimes the software will make things really easy (those lace collars are just a basic shape and then some pre-done fills and motif lines). A lot of these motif lines and fills are not available in ink/sitch (yet, it's growing every day) so things that are really easy to look cool in paid software are a bitch to make in free software, in this case.

If you're a Pla kind of person, you will already want the tools to design your own stuff, which means you should have the tools to optimize a design. You can combine stuff in your software, manually remove cuts and overlap, optimize stitch length, and all that. How well it will stitch out will be impacted by things you control. This means that you will need less control within the machine, because you don't really need those automated elements. Basically, the more complex (and usually expensive) your software is, the more it will let you control, and the less you need the machine to do for you.

If you're interested in Sil embroidery, and there's machines that come with access to or a subscription to a library of premade assets, check if they're assets that you're interested in using. If you are interested in them, look into machines with a good selection of premade designes. Only some of my store's machines are able to use the library for "free" (you technically subscribe to it but we bundle it with software and shit; we're really good at making you spend money but sound like it's a free thing) so that should be worth thinking about.

But if you're into Pla embroidery, you don't need to give a shit about any stupid library or premade things. You can buy a machine based solely on spring action foot, punch power, and hoop size, and then know that everything else is your responsibility to deal with. Downside, your success is going to be determined by your own skill alone. Upside, your success is going to be determined by your skill alone.

Honestly, for the kind of embroidery I do, the software is so much more important than what the machine can do. I don't need the machine to do anything really automatically (a functional jump-cut option is really nice) because I can spend like 45 extra minutes in the software to make it stitch out right. In fact, I spend that extra time making sure that things stitch out right, despite having a fancy machine that will do it for me. I just want that level of control.

So, the short version of what I'm going to say is that, if you want to get into taking your own art and using an embroidery machine to turn it into patches, the first thing you should do is find a software that lets you make designs you want. Then, when you've got that squared away, get a machine with whatever was left in your budget. Don't get a machine that you can't talk to or that can't stitch out the things you want to make.

That was a ton of words and not really a good answer there, wasn't it?

#long post #machine embroidery

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killyourpoet · 3 years

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What to expect on 12th September? (NEET 2021)

Hey everybody, if you're appearing for the NEET 2021 exam this Sunday (12th September 2021), I've compiled a list of some important things you might want to keep in mind.

The National Entrance-cum-Eligibility Test (NEET) is the national medical entrance exam in India. It is the only gateway into all medical schools in the country. It is conducted annually around May, but due to the COVID-19 pandemic, it has been postponed to September in 2020 and 2021. This year, 1.6 million students will be appearing for the exam.

[This list is by no means exhaustive, I only speak from my experience and the advice of friends and teachers. Feel free to add anything I might have missed out!]

How to make the most of this last week before the exam?

Do not experiment with anything new. Doing so might disturb the delicate subconscious programming that your brain has undergone through all these months of studying and practicing. By experimentation, I mean anything other than the routine that you've built while solving question papers. If you're used to starting with Biology, then moving on to Chemistry and ending with Physics, do not attempt to spice up your 3 hours by indulging in adventure sports like staring with Physics first. This will end in disaster.

Look through all the important things at least once. I know, I know. That's 10 fat books in one week. But remember that this is not the first time you're reading it. Skim. When you catch on something you're not too familiar with, only then should you actually read.

NCERT = holy book. Idk if you've heard but actually reading the books prescribed by the examining body will most definitely give you an edge over someone who hasn't. I cannot stress this enough. They will LITERALLY take out things from the NCERT and slap that onto the paper and call it a day. Remember that the examiners have to cater to those who do not have access to / cannot afford any sort of study material other than the NCERT. While study guides can help you interpret the NCERT, they cannot substitute it.

Have a plan. It doesn't have to be grand or very detailed. Just clearly defining what you intend to do with your time will suffice.

Set your internal clock. Practice at least one exam a day from 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm IST because that's when the actual exam is held. You want to maximize concentration and attention at that time of the day.

Practice answering on OMR sheets. This year, because of COVID, all your mock tests were probably online. In that case, take a few hours to practice exams on the OMR. The time management on that is very different from online exams.

Eat well. Remember to drink plenty of water. Try to eat things that have come directly from the earth and onto your plate. I know it's hard and the anxiety is enough to make you under eat / overeat but messing up because of something as trivial as meal choices would kinda suck tbh. Please do not eat an entire large pizza all by yourself the day before the exam. Stay the hell away from carbonated drinks for at least this one week. I am begging you. You might not notice but they seriously mess with your head. Whole foods are the way 2 go babes

What to expect on the day of the examination?

The NTA will be releasing the admit cards 3 days before the exam. Your exam centre and time slot to show up will be mentioned on it. This is most probably done to (a) prevent unfair practices and (b) give students enough time to visit the centre.

Know your exam centre beforehand. If you're living with your parents who will be driving you to the centre, you could even ask them to visit the centre the day before just so you don't waste time searching for the centre on the day of the exam. Believe me, a lot of people have lost an entire year because of this.

The peeing. Listen. They'll allow you to go to the washroom in the middle of the exam, of course. But if you ask me, try to avoid getting up to pee. Try to time your water such that you wouldn't have to pee during the exam. Please make sure you pee right before the exam. Idk about you but the exam pee has always been a real problem for me and together with my anxiety, it has ruined a lot of exams. It also breaks your momentum and you'll have to re-orient yourself when you get back. NEET isn't like JEE - it's not about how smart you are, it's about how efficient and accurate you are, because that's what a doctor needs to be.

Eat a light, nutritious meal. Something that'll give you energy but isn't too hard to digest. You don't want to nod off during the exam. That would be highly inconvenient.

Be on time. If you don't turn up on time, no matter what, you will not be allowed inside. Again, a lot of people I know have messed up here.

Security check. You will be checked before entering the centre. Do not wear anything dark (black, dark blue, dark brown etc). Do not wear jeans or any tight clothes. All your clothes must fit loosely and they must be light. This is done to prevent people from sneaking in transmission devices. If you wear long sleeves, you will be asked to cut them then and there. Do not wear heavily embroidered clothes. Do not have any metal on you. Take off all jewelry at home. If you wear a bra, remember to wear a sports bra or one that doesn't have any metal hooks. You can't wear shoes - your feet must be visible. Wear flip-flops or thin sandals. People have been made to take off their shoes before and write the exam barefoot. They will provide a fresh mask at the centre and gloves. This time, due to COVID-19 restrictions, they will not be doing body pat frisking, they will not be checking your ears and mouth. There will be bluetooth jammers in the exam hall to prevent any transmissions and the entire exam will be videographed.

Stay calm. I know it looks like a high security airport check and you'll probably be scanned several times and subjected to several layers of screening but remember - this is done so that nobody has an unfair advantage over you. India has incredibly clever people, but sometimes for the wrong reasons.

While writing the exam:

Don't panic. If you see a question that looks hard do! not! panic! because we always know more than we think we do!! Wait a second, linger for a moment and the answer should come to you.

Know what to leave. If you aren't aiming to get a perfect 720/720 then you should leave time consuming questions and try to do as many questions you know as possible. If you are aiming for a perfect score, do the same but remember that you need to leave sufficient time at the end to come back to them.

Repeat. Remember - this is just another one of the hundreds of exams you've done. Follow the same strategy you're used to. Most definitely DO NOT experiment in the final exam.

Lastly, always remember that ur super cool and smart and amazing and one mistake won't define you. Your worth is inherent and not determined by an exam. Your timeline is very different from someone else's. This is not a race, it's about doing things right. Your physical and mental health are more important than anything else in life. Do your best today and try again tomorrow. And then the day after that.

If you have any questions, feel free to message me :))

Best of luck!!

— Svante

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nann-the-explorer · 2 years

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Arianna the druid Andrei could practically feel the amusement through her unwanted bond. Was he laughing at her or Ituith’ryiels intentions? "Captain. I-I'm bound. To lucan, I do not want to betray your confidence or your trust but I have no way of breaking his control over me. I'm so sorry." her head hung in a mixture of guilt and shame. Hot tears ran down her face, she couldn't bear to look at the captain. "Andrei. Andrei, look at me." a firm hand gripped her shoulder, giving it a gentle squeeze. Slowly, she raised her head revealing a red blotchy face and a ton of tears. Reluctantly her eyes turned to her superior. "I know you wouldn't willingly betray me or this crew. Right now we have a psychotic eldritch, two crewmates in serious trouble and an island full of infected villagers. I shall just add this to our list." He smiled at her very determinedly, Andrei didn't miss the look of tiredness he was attempting to hide. She felt just awful for adding more to his already full and dangerous schedule. "there will be a way to break his hold over you. Even if it means going to the elves' homeworld." in a rare moment of weakness Andrei stepped into Samuel's arms and cried into his shoulder. He put his arms around her and let her cry. Andrei was a strong woman but even she had the odd moment of vulnerability. After a minute Andrei straightened herself. "sir, I'd suggest we keep Nann unconscious until we have seen the sentinel, I am sure we can deal with Ituith’ryiel if we work together. but someone will have to tell Ras, it wouldn't be fair to keep it from him. Especially after all his hard work with the cure." Samuel pinched the bridge of his nose, of course his steward was right but he was concerned how the elf would take it. He already had the stress of making a cure and watching his beloved friend slowly succumbing to a deadly infection. With that in mind Samuel decided that he would let them try the cure first before sharing more news. "Here, take this and thank you Andrei, they are in your hands." the captain handed his steward a clean white handkerchief embroidered with the Captain’s initials in a royal blue thread.

"Yes sir!" Andrei smiled and left feeling a little better than when she had earlier. Of course the captain was right. They would find a way to break Lucans control. Maybe Arianna would have a solution once she awakens. Ituith’ryiel though, was another serious problem. Would lucan work with Ituith’ryiel? She couldn't answer, she didn't know anything about lucan or his past. Only the elves could answer that.

The smell in Arianna's cabin was getting worse by the hour. The infection had a sickly scent to it, a mix of wet dog, burnt hair and soil that one could almost taste as well as smell. Ras and Doctor Jo stood with their backs to the door talking in hushed voices. Ras heard her first and stepped aside, creating a space for her. "is that it?" Andrei asked in a quiet voice. Ras nodded while Jo was busily unbuttoning Tostain's shirt. "there isn't much. How is it used?" Ras let out a sigh "at first we thought they should drink it but seeing their condition… that option is out. So now we are going to try applying it directly to the primary infection site. For Tostain it's his chest. For Arianna it's her hand." Andrei looked at Tostain's bare chest. It was a good thing they were only going to put it on a small area. The infection had spread across Tostain's chest, up his neck and the left side of his face stopping on his cheek. Arianna's infection had snaked up her right arm, neck and shoulder and was also climbing up her face. "it's spread so much, I only left them for five minutes. It looks like it's trying to reach somewhere?"

"The brain." Jo said simply. "it'll probably destroy all the neurons and the brain won't be able to function, they'll die."

The tension in the air was thick as first Jo then Ras used a dropper to drip three single golden drops onto Tostain and Arianna's infection. The group peered closely waiting for a response but nothing happened. Their faces fell and the disappointment tasted bitter.

"look." Ras whispered. The infection on Tostain's face was moving. "what is that?" Jo asked, squinting at Tostain.

"They're- little tiny tentacles." Andrei breathed in horror. The tiny mass of writhing tentacles were turning a mossy green before swooning over and shrinking back towards his chest. Andrei and Ras stayed with both patients while the infection slowly died. It was taking a long time. Andrei refreshed the oil lamps and continued to dampen their foreheads with a flannel. The two vampires sat in silence for a long time. Ras broke the silence "Have you spoken to Nann today? I haven't had the chance to see her… it's too late to visit her now. I guess I'll try and catch her in the morning." He sounded tired and Andrei couldn't blame him. It had been a very long day and now it was late into the night. She looked out the porthole to avoid looking at Ras. "yes I saw her earlier. She seemed fine." Ras let out a sigh of relief at her lie. "that's good to know." the silence took over again. Occasionally broken by the sound of shrieking coming from the tentacles as they died. Oddly both of them got used to the sound quickly. They took turns napping throughout the night.

#Roleplay #OC Roleplay #Arianna the Druid #Nann the Explorer

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