"Nasir Mansoor has spent 40 years fighting for Pakistan’s workers. Whether demanding compensation on behalf of the hundreds of people who died in a devastating 2012 factory fire in Karachi or demonstrating against Pakistani suppliers to global fashion brands violating minimum wage rules, he’s battled many of the country’s widespread labor injustices.
Yet so far, little has improved, said Mansoor, who heads Pakistan’s National Trade Union Federation in Karachi... Regulations and trade protocols look good on paper, but they rarely trickle down to the factory level. “Nobody cares,” Mansoor said. “Not the government who makes commitments, not the brands, and not the suppliers. The workers are suffering.”
Change on the Horizon
But change might finally be on the horizon after Germany’s new Supply Chain Act came into force last year. As Europe’s largest economy and importer of clothing, Germany now requires certain companies to put risk-management systems in place to prevent, minimize, and eliminate human rights violations for workers across their entire global value chains. Signed into law by German Chancellor Olaf Scholz in January 2023, the law covers issues such as forced labor, union-busting, and inadequate wages, for the first time giving legal power to protections that were previously based on voluntary commitments. Companies that violate the rules face fines of up to 8 million euros ($8.7 million)...
...As governments come to realize that a purely voluntary regimen produces limited results, there is now a growing global movement to ensure that companies are legally required to protect the people working at all stages of their supply chains.
The German law is just the latest example of these new due diligence rules—and it’s the one with the highest impact, given the size of the country’s market. A number of other Western countries have also adopted similar legislation in recent years, including France and Norway. A landmark European Union law that would mandate all member states to implement similar regulation is in the final stages of being greenlighted.
Although the United States has legislation to prevent forced labor in its global supply chains, such as the 2021 Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, there are no federal laws that protect workers in other countries from abuses that fall short of forced labor. That said, a proposed New York state bill, the Fashion Act, would legally require most major U.S. and international brands to identify, prevent, and remediate human rights violations in their supply chain if passed, with noncompliance subject to fines. Since major fashion brands could hardly avoid selling their products in New York, the law would effectively put the United States on a similar legal level as Germany and France...
The Results So Far
As of January, Germany’s new law applies to any company with at least 1,000 employees in the country, which covers many of the world’s best-known fast fashion retailers, such as Zara and Primark. Since last January [Jan 2023], German authorities say they have received 71 complaints or notices of violations and conducted 650 of their own assessments, including evaluating companies’ risk management.
In Pakistan, the very existence of the German law was enough to spark action. Last year, Mansoor and other union representatives reached out to fashion brands that sourced some of their clothing in Pakistan to raise concerns about severe labor violations in garment factories. Just four months later, he and his colleagues found themselves in face-to-face meetings with several of those brands—a first in his 40-year career. “This is a big achievement,” he said. “Otherwise, [the brands] never sit with us. Even when the workers died in the factory fire, the brand never sat with us.” ...
-via The Fuller Project, April 2, 2024. Article headers added by me.
Article continues below, with more action-based results, including one factory that "complied, agreeing to respect minimum wages and provide contract letters, training on labor laws, and—for the first time—worker bonuses"
With the help of Mansoor and Zehra Khan, the general secretary of the Home-Based Women Workers Federation, interviews with more than 350 garment workers revealed the severity of long-known issues.
Nearly all workers interviewed were paid less than a living wage, which was 67,200 Pakistan rupees (roughly $243) per month in 2022, according to the Asia Floor Wage Alliance. Nearly 30 percent were even paid below the legal minimum wage of 25,000 Pakistani rupees per month (roughly $90) for unskilled workers. Almost 100 percent had not been given a written employment contract, while more than three-quarters were either not registered with the social security system—a legal requirement—or didn’t know if they were.
When Mansoor, Khan, and some of the organizations raised the violations with seven global fashion brands implicated, they were pleasantly surprised. One German retailer reacted swiftly, asking its supplier where the violations had occurred to sign a 14-point memorandum of understanding to address the issues. (We’re unable to name the companies involved because negotiations are ongoing.) The factory complied, agreeing to respect minimum wages and provide contract letters, training on labor laws, and—for the first time—worker bonuses.
In February [2024], the factory registered an additional 400 workers with the social security system (up from roughly 100) and will continue to enroll more, according to Khan. “That is a huge number for us,” she said.
It’s had a knock-on effect, too. Four of the German brand’s other Pakistani suppliers are also willing to sign the memorandum, Khan noted, which could impact another 2,000 workers or so. “The law is opening up space for [the unions] to negotiate, to be heard, and to be taken seriously,” said Miriam Saage-Maass, the legal director at ECCHR.
Looking Forward with the EU
...Last month [in March 2024], EU member states finally approved a due diligence directive after long delays, during which the original draft was watered down. As it moves to the next stage—a vote in the European Parliament—before taking effect, critics argue that the rules are now too diluted and cover too few companies to be truly effective. Still, the fact that the EU is acting at all has been described as an important moment, and unionists such as Mansoor and Khan wait thousands of miles away with bated breath for the final outcome.
Solidarity from Europe is important, Khan said, and could change the lives of Pakistan’s workers. “The eyes and the ears of the people are looking to [the brands],” Mansoor said. “And they are being made accountable for their mistakes.”"
-via The Fuller Project, April 2, 2024. Article headers added by me.
186 notes
·
View notes
Anyone who thinks you can automate sewing has never sewed. It's so physical in such a bespoke and microadjusting way. Try to get a machine to pin two pant legs together that are slightly different lengths intentionally and one needs to stretch but there's also slightly different curves and also one piece has a wrinkle putting it together because you've sewed edges of two pieces together that aren't the same width.
And you have to go between sewing and pinning to get everything as flat as possible. And also the fabric has to stay perfectly lined up even though it wants to drift apart and you're constantly adjusting them by millimeters as you feed it.
Machines cannot do all this. They can't make all those decisions on the fly with such inherently physical and inconsistent pieces.
I'm sick of tech bros acting like the solution to poor labor conditions, unfair wages, and devaluing of very skilled labor is to get machines to do a piss poor job.
It's also traditionally women's work and there's so much misogyny in devaluing the skill. Of course it's mostly men who don't even know how to examine the stitching on their clothes let alone actually do the work.
Fuck them all.
And remember that ALL clothing is handmade.
49 notes
·
View notes
Got absolute fucking whiplash today, to illustrate some systems in a work training today we were watching informational videos that were mostly essentially adverts for particular factories or services. Anyway.
One is about The Circular Economy and it opens with like 'nature is self sustaining but our economic system is not' nodnod
'we buy new things and the old things get thrown away, wasted' nodnod
'in a circular economy these thrown away items would be reclaimed and the parts used in the construction of the new things' yep
'but to do this we may need to rethink our entire economy' wait is this flashy ad about to actually advocate against excessive consumption?
'To achieve this we must envision a world where we do not own things, but loan them from manufacturers, who can then recycle them'
Oh so like, nightmare world in the name of profit. Cool. Death.
7 notes
·
View notes
The New York Shirtwaist Strike -- a nearly three-month-long strike by New York City garment workers and the first major successful strike by female workers in American history -- began on this day in 1909. The workers, who were nearly all young, Jewish, immigrant women, organized the strike to protest the dangerous working conditions, low pay, and grueling hours which were common at the factory sweatshops of the day.
One of the strike's leaders Clara Lemlich, who had immigrated to the U.S. from Ukraine, was known for challenging the mostly male leadership of the women's garment workers union. At an organizing meeting on November 22, after listening to the male leaders cautioning against a strike for over four hours, she demanded the right to speak and declared: "I have listened to all the speakers, and I have no further patience for talk. I am a working girl, one of those striking against intolerable conditions. I am tired of listening to speakers who talk in generalities. What we are here for is to decide whether or not to strike. I make a motion that we go out in a general strike."
In what came to be known as the "Uprising of the 20,000," approximately 20,000 out of the 32,000 workers in the shirtwaist trade walked out in the next two days. The strike lasted until February 10, 1910 and resulted in union contracts with better pay, hours, and working conditions at nearly every garment shop except the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory.
The following year, on March 25, 1911, 146 garment workers -- nearly all young women between the ages of 16 and 23 -- perished in a horrific fire at the Triangle Shirtwaist factory. Due to poor conditions at the factory, doors to hallways and stairwells were locked during the work day, trapping the women inside the building when the fire broke out. The fire was the deadliest industrial disaster to have ever occurred in New York, and spurred the passage of 60 new safety and labor regulations in the two years following the tragedy.
The future U.S. Secretary of Labor, Frances Perkins, who was among the shocked bystanders of the tragedy, went on to advocate for reform of working conditions as a result of what she witnessed that day. The disaster also further energized the efforts of the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union to fight for better working conditions for sweatshop workers.
A Mighty Girl
51 notes
·
View notes