#but by the end are all reduced to very similar and plain looking garments

[supercantaloupe]

i do think it’s quite funny when costumers put don giovanni in All Bright Red and everyone else is in just like normal outfits with more normal muted colors. it’s like we get it guys don’t worry lol

#sasha speaks #not to always simp for the 2017 Festival international d'Art lyrique prod but #i like what they do with the costumes. esp the way all the women start out in very distinct personalized costumes #but by the end are all reduced to very similar and plain looking garments #as to visually demonstrate how the don's behavior reduces women of all kinds to the same sorry state #storytelling through costume design!!!

[bowtiepastabitch]

Let's Talk Costuming: Come on, Hamlet! Buck up!

Welcome, my friends, to the Renaissance, or to be more specific in geography and time, the Elizabethan period! Shakespeare! Protestantism! Great fun! For context, this scene likely takes place sometime around 1599-1601, towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign.

What I find most interesting about clothing of this period (aside from how silly looking some of it is) is that this is the era of ~*sumptuary laws*~ so every piece of clothing you see tells you a story about the person wearing it! Of course, I can't imagine Crowley or Aziraphale are all that concerned with being mistaken for a duke or somesuch, but it's fun to image what an onlooker may have thought of them.

Note: The focus of this analysis will be on Aziraphale's costume and on Elizabethan sumptuary laws. Crowley is up next, and his costume analysis will focus more on composition.

[text of a Royal Proclamation dated 15 June 1574, British Library]

Sumptuary laws have been around for a while, and they served a dual purpose during the Elizabethan period. First and foremost, they set to reinforce class boundaries by forbidding one to dress above ones station, but they also sought to reduce foreign imports of excess frippery that drained English pocketbooks. The proclamation even warns that young men of the realm, having spent their fortunes on fine clothing, will turn to lives of crime to satisfy their appetites.

These laws regulated all kinds of things: the textiles one could wear, in what colors, how much a guy could pad his calves out for ultimate sex appeal, really anything you can think of. That's not a joke, in fact a man in 1565 was detained for wearing "a very monsterous and outraygous greate payre of hose," which likely refers to a 1562 regulation on hose, ruffs, and swords. Hose could not be "containing in the netherstocks and upperstocks more than one yard and a half, or above one yard and three-quarters at the most, of the broadest kersey, or with any other stuff beyond that proportion," nor could they be lined excessively or constructed with too much fabric.

This same law regulated ruffs, like the ones we see at Aziraphale's neck and sleeve cuffs, to only a single width of ruffle, which dear Azi is following:

Where he might find himself in a spot of trouble, though, would be in the colors he's wearing. The color combination is rather divine on him, but the use of gold embroidery on clothing is forbidden unless one ranks as a Viscount or above. Now, could it be argued that Aziraphale, as an angel and a principality, has a privileged rank of his own? Yes, it could, but that takes some of the fun out of this.

His doublet (cute little jacket) appears to be a silk damask dyed in a lighter shade of blue, so likely woad. He would be safe in all these regards. Were the blue indigo, he could get in trouble for that, however, as that rich shade of blue was reserved for the upper echelons of the gentry as well.

Swords notwithstanding, the cut of Aziraphale's garments is reminiscent of several of the gentlemen in the foreground here:

[Royal procession of Queen Elizabeth. Printed by and for J. Nichols and Son, London, 1823. Folger Shakespeare Library]

As usual, we see Aziraphale in a tasteful iteration of the era's clothing that incorporates his character's color scheme. The incredibly dramatic silhouettes of the era definitely leave their mark, but he ends up looking rather refined rather than ridiculous.

[The Tailor, Giovanni Battista Moroni, 1565-1570]

This portrait gives a great view of these outrageous pants up close, as well as a jacket very similar in design to the one Aziraphale wears in this scene. The primary difference between the two is that the tailor is dressed appropriately for a craftsman, plain colors and not much extraneous ornamentation. Against this, Aziraphale certainly stands out, with his fancy trims and such, and would thus necessarily be identified as a member of the gentry by anyone in his vicinity.

This is important, because his positionality in this world is very clear. As in many of our historical moments, Aziraphale's wish to blend in only extends to a certain degree. He complies with the style of the era, and I suspect even enjoys his little games of dress-up, but as time goes on he creates more distance between himself and the garb of the peasantry. In some of the biblical era flashbacks, he's dressed rather plainly, but in later periods we seem him as a knight, a rather foppish Victorian gentleman, and finally in his well loved 20th century gentleman outfit that he keeps well past the point of anachronism.

He leans into these little luxurious identities in part because he is an angel, yes, but he is also slowly falling in love with all the beautiful little things that humanity has to offer. And what does the renaissance give him? Great works of theatre, luxurious gold embroidered silk jackets, and slutty little pumpkin shorts.

He's adorable, you have to admit. My sources, for your further reading pleasure or to prove I did my research:

-https://blogs.loc.gov/law/2014/02/sumptuary-laws/

-https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/proclamation-against-excess-of-apparel-by-queen-elizabeth-i#:~:text=During%20the%20reign%20of%20Queen,on%20luxuries%20such%20as%20clothing.

-https://www.folger.edu/blogs/shakespeare-and-beyond/sumptuary-laws-rules-dressing-shakespeare-england/

Ta ta, have a wonderful day, and I hope you enjoyed our little history lesson.

#good omens analysis #costume design #history #clothing history #good omens #good omens costumes #historical clothing #aziraphale #aziraphale good omens #michael sheen #neil gaiman #I spent eight hours in the library today writing a paper why did I come home and spend another two hours researching this

[dresshistorynerd]

Victorian Dress For Every Occasion - 1890s Edition

The Victorian period was much about appearances and very specific etiquette, especially when it came to clothing. They had dressing etiquette for literally every activity during the day and people changed their outfit many times a day, especially in upper class circles. It honestly gets very convoluted so I decided to look into it more deeply. Not understanding the dress etiquette of the times creates a lot of weird costumes in period drama for example, where a dress might have elements of real extent garments, but they are combined in ways that would make no sense to Victorians.

To limit this post and my research I’m looking into 1890s. I also think it gives better idea about the differences between the outfits if they are all from the same decade. I’ll also limit myself to upper class and women’s clothing. I think it would be interesting to look at men’s dress etiquette and etiquette of the lower classes, but alas it has to be another post.

The broad strokes are that from the turn of the 19th century to WW1 during the day you would wear long sleeves and little to no cleavage and in the evening you could show more skin, except when dining. The specifics shifted from time and place.

Nightgown

Nightgown, as you might guess, was worn for sleeping. They started as basically shifts, the very basic under dress worn next to skin, but during the Victorian Era they became increasingly elaborate and when 1890s was reached they were profoundly extra. You would never show yourself in your nightgown alone. For them it was probably pretty much the same as wearing only your underwear. Even in your bedroom or dressing room you would cover it up, which leads us to...

Dressing Gown

Dressing gown was exactly what was used to cover nightgown. In some sources I’ve seen this called wrapper. But basically it was a glorified bathrobe. It was not used outside your own private chambers, but inside them while you got ready for the day. It was usually long and loose comfortable robe, often tied by waist with a cord. During summer they were light and in winter they might have been woolen or from quilted fabric for warmth. They were heavily inspired from especially Japanese kimono as Orientalism was very in in Europe during 19th century. Under it a ribbon corset or morning corset could be used, but that was not necessary. Ribbon corset was made entirely of thick ribbons and ended under the bust, with only couple of bones to keep it in shape, and morning corset doesn’t have cording and instead is just wrapped around the torso. They were made for comfort and bust support and didn’t shape heavily or reduce waist.

Wrapper

Wrapper or morning dress was used during the morning in the comfort of home. The terminology around this type of clothing is murky and they had a lot of overlap with tea gown and dressing gown. Some primary sources described wrapper as something you can wear on top of a dress to keep the dress clean and others as plainer and looser version of the day dress. Most extent garments, I found from 1890s, were the latter type. The former sounds something that could be used as a dressing gown too, which would explain, why the dressing gown was called wrapper in some sources. What I have gathered, is that earlier in Victorian era wrapper meant something similar to dressing gown, but maybe more presentable or dress-like, worn over a morning dress of just the undergarments. I think by the 1890s the whole outfit worn in morning had begun to be referred as wrapper, since I had a hard time finding morning dresses dated to 1890s. Regardless of the terminology, in 1890s wrapper was used in home outside personal chambers. It was acceptable to receive early visitors in it, but it was very informal and mostly reserved for very close people. It was plain and practical, but when it comes to rich people it became increasingly elaborate during Victorian era. It’s a theme here. It was often loose, but it could be more or less structured (often less). Under it you would usually wear all the typical undergarment layers (combinations or shift with drawers, corset, corset cover and petticoat), though morning or ribbon corset could be worn instead of the normal one.

Tea gown

Tea gowns started as house dress, basically an open presentable wrapper worn over a fancier petticoat or morning dress, but by the 1890s it became somewhat of a statement piece. At first it was seen as tacky to be too dressed up in your own home, even when receiving guests, but I think we have established that 1890s Victorians were very, very extra. Tea gowns were worn for receiving house guests during the day and in the late Victorian era, as tea gowns had become so extravagant, they were also used in the evening for receiving casual gatherings of close friends or family. Similar to wrappers, they were looser than clothing worn outside, but could be structured or lack any structuring at all. Except they were made from more expensive materials and had much more detailing. They also often had drains and a real or fake open robe-like thing, which I assume was a nod to house dresses. All the undergarments were worn under it, but morning or ribbon corset could be used under it, if very close friends were visiting. Very loose tea gowns (like the pink one on the right) show well the roots of the tea gown which are in the Victorian counter culture fashion movement, Aesthetic movement, which rejected the rigid Victorian silhouette.

Day dress

Day dress or afternoon dress was formal and elaborate, as it was used outside of home and meant to be seen. Unlike the gowns reserved for home usage, it was generally made from two pieces, bodice and skirt. But of course, you would always wear matching pieces. It had long sleeves and high neckline. As the name reveals, it was worn during daytime. It could be worn for visiting and then, especially when visiting close friends or relatives, it could have slightly shorter sleeves or lower neckline, but not as low as with evening wear. It was also worn for promenading outside. When used for carriage rides train was acceptable, when for walks, shorter one was seen as preferable, but as we know Victorians were extra and sometimes still wore a train. Since weddings were (and are) held during the day, a day dress was used for that too. The finest day dress was used of course and after queen Victoria’s wedding white became the most popular color. People who weren’t rich, might have still opted out from it, as pure white dress was very expensive.

Walking dress

Walking dress was, you guessed, used for walking. Victorians were really into city walks and would use a walking dress for looking around in cities. It was a type of day dress but much more practical and less elaborate. It was usually made from sturdier materials and the skirt was short enough to reveal shoes. It often had a skirt, blouse and a coat, sometimes a waistcoat too. Because of it’s practicality, it was often used for travelling too.

Dinner dress

Dinner dress was used in evening, but unlike other evening dresses, more skin coverage was appropriate. Sleeves could be as short as elbow length and neckline could be more open than with day dress. As the name suggests, it was used for dining and dinner parties.

Evening dress

Evening dress was the fanciest of them all and the most official. It had short sleeves or only straps (in the middle of the decade huge sleeves very very fashionable) and low and wide neckline. It was used in fancy evening occasions when presenting yourself for the high society. Balls were of course the main events of high society, there every one would put on the best they had, there was no holding back. For opera people also dressed to be seen and would dress up, but for theater a little toned down look was more appropriate.

It was very common to have bodices for different occasions (day/evening/dinner) made for the same skirt, so same material and style, but different sleeve lengths and necklines. Clothing were very expensive and the skirt had the biggest amount of fabric making it the most expensive part, so it was very economical to use the same skirt for different occasions.

#fashion history #historical clothing #fashion #Victorian fashion #history #historical fashion #dress history #1890s #1890s fashion #victorian dress #ball gown #tea gown #western fashion #western fashion history #victorian

[ddarker-dreams]

Buds of Marigold. Yan Childe x Reader x Yan Scaramouche

Warnings: Implied forced marriage, unhealthy relationships, depictions of anxiety, darling threatening violence against someone, mild not SFW implications.  Word count: 2.5k.

“I never thought the day would come where I’d be so stumped,” Ying’er runs her fingers over glass bottles of essential oils and varying plant nectars. “For such an important customer too… everything needs to be perfect.”

You don’t lift your eyes from the task in your hands, scrubbing valiantly at a stain blemishing an incense pot. To affirm you have been listening, even if you won’t spare her a glance until you’ve finished cleaning, you hum with a rising intonation. Ying’er sinks to the ground with all the grace of a drunken sailor, sniffling in a final attempt to pry out your sympathy.

She hobbles over to where you’re sitting and places her head on your lap. Your body tenses at the sudden touch, but you steady your breathing before it can get noticeable.

“Oh, almighty Yun, the lost Archon of fragrances, have thee no pity for thy devout follower,” Ying’er lifts the back of her hand and presses it against her forehead in a show of unparalleled theatrics. The sight does as she intended, a light giggle leaving your lips at the impromptu melodrama. Her timing lines up well as the stubborn grime you were fighting finally concedes.

You place the incense pot aside and sheepishly pat her head. “Ying’er, how are you going to learn if I give you the answers every time?”

“By your ingenious example!” She exclaims, jutting out her lower lip into a pout. “I’ve already picked out the base, I just need a little nudging in the right direction for the top and mid notes.”

Your eyes soften and your heart is strum with conviction. You soothe your grumbling friend by stroking her hair, humming a soft tune, all the while feeling somewhat baffled by your growth thus far. A few moons ago, you couldn’t have pictured allowing yourself to be touched like this by anyone. It wouldn’t matter how innocent the contact was. The moment someone got too close for comfort, you were willing to reduce them to nothing but a pile of cinders.

You pause your ministrations and sigh. “Fine, fine. I’ll help you compose your perfume. This is the last time though, okay?”

Ying’er ailments seemingly vaporize into the air at your begrudging assistance. She shoots up from her kneeling position like her feet were coiled springs, an overflow of gratitude fumbling past her lips.

“You’re the best, Yun,” she praises and pinches your cheek, much to your chagrin. “Now that I’ve won you over with my charms, how about—”

The front door’s chimes ring, alerting you both of someone entering. You two exchange a look of confusion, as Scent of Spring is closed for the day, the oil lanterns extinguished and doors locked. Your finger twitches by your side in anticipation. Ying’er is blissfully ignorant to your Vision and subsequent ability to command forward a blade, a façade you wish to sustain.

“I’ll handle it,” Ying’er says before you can contemplate your options another second. You nod, an unspoken appreciation etched onto your countenance. The details of your circumstances were purposefully murky and she never presses. Whatever conclusions Ying’er has come to, you prefer it stays that way, not wanting to upset the delicate balance that is your current life.

You straighten out her collar which had wrinkled. “Call me if anything’s wrong.”

Ying’er winks reassuringly and presses her hands over yours, the touch featherlight. “I’m a fearsome opponent, no one would dare cross me.”

Let’s hope that’s true, you think. Frowning, you observe her retreating figure, taking caution to remain out of sight. Ying’er steps out of the backroom, the thick wooden door closing loudly behind her. You keen your ears to listen, cursing internally over how the thick walls muffle their voices. Her voice is one you instantly recognize, but the other belongs to someone with a deeper timbre. Your boss is an elderly woman, so that rules her out. A Millieth, perhaps?

You’re not left waiting for long, much to your relief. Ying’er pops her head back in a few minutes later.

“It was just a returning customer who was pleased with his latest commission, the one you helped me with no less. He had nothing but high praises for it!”

Waves of relief crash over you, but your senses remain on high alert.

“I’m happy to hear that. Still, how did he manage to get in? Didn’t you lock up for the night?” You inquire, hoping you don’t sound overly paranoid. In the back of your mind, you can’t fully discount the idea that it’s him, the thought alone enough to have you shaking in place.

“Must’ve forgotten or something,” she shrugs. You let out a breath you were holding in at her nonchalance, it seems plausible given her airheaded nature. “By the way, Yun, can we work on the perfume in the morning? I just realized how tired I am.”

“Of course. It has been a long day... I’ll finish things up here, go home and get some rest.”

Ying’er waves and wishes you a good night.

It’s now your turn to slump onto the ground, grasping your chest when your knees hit the floor. Deep breaths, deep breaths, you tell yourself. Everything is going to be okay.

This peaceful existence that you’ve fought tooth and nail to build for yourself… the only way it could ever get be stolen from your hands is if air no longer filled your lungs. Your fingers travel underneath the foreign fabric of your Liyue garments, the warmth of your pulsating Vision giving you solace. Tending to the last few chores, your subconscious drifts elsewhere, to an island beyond the sea. What is it you would be doing this time of day again? Ironically enough, you realize you’d be working with incense as you are now, but for different reasons. The reason you excel with curating incense to produce the best aroma is because you were trained to do so.

Your work now is your lifeblood, giving you enough to scrape by undetected. Those days, however, were a different story. It constituted survival like now, but to a far more humiliating degree. It was expected of you to perform your duties with grace and discipline. You would retire early to your shared chambers, prepare and burn your husband’s favorite incense, and fuss over your appearance in the vanity. Then you would loosen the sash of your obi, just enough so that if it had been a frustrating day, he could lose himself in your body for a momentary escape. Those customs had been ingrained into your mind. Had you needed to, you’re certain you could’ve done everything with your eyes closed from memory.

You head for the back exit. Surely, your past self would be thrilled to know your meticulous plans had come to fruition. All those smiles through gritted teeth, submissive language, and patience that could rival that of a god… everything was worth it.

Now you’re no longer the number Six of the Fatui's Eleven Harbingers’ spouse. You’ve taken the identity of Yun, a Visionless worker for a perfume shop in Liyue, everyday defined by freedom. To do as you please, go where you please, speak to who you please. The little details that were stolen from you by his hands return like tentative buds in spring.

You’ve yet to fully assimilate with Liyue’s cuisine, but it’s steadily growing on you. Maybe you’ll make an Inazuma-inspired dish tonight? In the months that have passed, you’ve found a taste for your nation’s food coming back. So as not to repeat Ying’er’s mistake, you double-check the backdoor’s locks, finding it is as it should be. Behind the humble shop is an alley which you use to creep back home. It’s best not to risk traveling out in the open if you can avoid it, you never know what eyes might be hiding in plain sight.

“Liyue apparel compliments you very well.”

With the speed of a descending phoenix, you pivot on your heel, summoning your weapon and pressing it to the jugular of whoever spoke just now. Squinting, your eyes take a few long seconds to adjust. Once they do, your body feels like it’s being drug into the underworld, the air in your lungs forced out. This man… you’ve seen him before. He gives you an all teeth grin, azure eyes swirling with delight and face contorting in amusement.

You remain steadfast through your bewilderment. “Try and scream and I’ll slit your throat.”

“I’m not much of a screamer,” Childe replies, laughing as if the situation was comical. “It’s good to see you too, [First]. Never thought I’d happen upon an old face in Liyue. I knew I recognized that unique combination of perfume, looks like I was right.”

It hits you that this is the first time you’ve heard your actual name in months. How Childe says it doesn’t feel right, he utters it with familiarity. Though, from what you remember, he’s never been known for having boundaries. Scaramouche would complain about his conduct for hours if given the opportunity. This would be the first time you’ve spoken with him, not from a lack of trying on his behalf. When Childe paid a visit to your husband’s estate, you were expected to be present at the start of their meetings. They would discuss business together while you stood there and looked easy on the eyes. Occasionally, you would refill their tea, but that was all you were permitted to do.

The look Scaramouche shot Childe when the latter tried speaking with you was enough to give you nightmares for days.

“What… what are you going to do now?” You murmur, anticipating the worst. This isn’t going to end well no matter what. If Fatui are in Liyue, that means Childe’s likely told someone where he was going; meaning that him going missing would be suspicious and warrant an investigation. On the other hand, who is to say he won’t just return you to Scaramouche if you let him live? You doubt your tears and pleading would have any effect on the youngest Harbinger. He’s similar to your husband — acting altruistic and kind — only to show their true colors when it suits them best.

“Right now? I’m trying not to get my throat slit,” he raises an eyebrow like that was the most obvious answer.

You bite your lower lip. “We both know you could get out of this hold if you wanted to.”

“Emphasis on the ‘if I wanted to’ part. As of right now, I don’t believe I do, being held by you is rather enjoyable,” Childe tests the waters by moving forward, humming in contentment when you lessen your grip as not to slice through his skin. “See? You’ve never even killed someone before. Call it intuition, but I don’t think you could.”

He reconsiders the proposition for a second. “Well, maybe if it was him...”

“You’re as insufferable as I remember,” you hiss, imbuing heat into your blade. Childe barely backs off and the unspoken threat. “Everyone who refuses to take me seriously comes to regret it.”

“Don’t worry, I fully agree with that. The Balladeer reduced you to nothing but a pretty little ornament. He underestimated you and this is the consequence.” Childe has an easier time maintaining eye contact than you do. It’s another minute detail that expresses the gap in your experience. You may be adequately trained in combat, but that pales in comparison when faced with a trained killer. This sorry charade will end the moment he wants it to.

Hate floods through your veins like venom. He’s looking down on you, just in a different way than how your husband would. Where Scaramouche was condescending and sadistic, Childe is brutally honest and teasing. It’s a split-second decision on your behalf, one motivated by the desire to prove this smug bastard wrong more than self-preservation. You loosen your grip on him and jump back. It’s not a lot of space, however, it should be enough to allow you room to react when he strikes.

He goes silent. It’s painfully obvious that he’s trying to get a read on you, now that you’re veering into unexpected territory.

“You were waiting for an opening, weren’t you?” Your words come out with more strength than you thought possible, deep from the chest and guttural. “Well, here you go. It’s the best you’re going to get.”

Childe blinks. Once, twice. His shoulders start to tremble, his chest following soon after, and he lifts his gloved hand to cover his mouth. Hearty laughter leaves his lips and pierces your self-esteem. You don’t understand what’s so humorous to him — though you’re well aware these Harbingers hold no humanity — repulsion flooding your system. This feels nostalgic in the worst ways possible. Early on in your marriage, Scaramouche would regard your resistance with a similar air of blatant dismissal, like your protests were nothing but a tantrum.

“You were wasted with him,” Childe’s loathsome cackling dies down, a maniacal grin splitting his face ear to ear. “Now I understand… the way you’re looking at me now is chilling. Exciting. In what ways have you evolved to survive? I love the fight in you, unlike him. Your adaptability is remarkable, like that of the most cunning prey. ” 

Prey. The dehumanizing word makes you frown, yet you remain firm in your stance. This is the best chance, you think, now that you’ve managed to surprise him once. There’s plenty more where that came from. Tendrils of molten flames, like they were stolen from the sun itself, would make for a considerable challenge. Harbinger or not, he should know better than to charge in without thinking twice when you hold a Pyro Vision.

His face returns to a more casual visage and he waves his hand. “I never had any intention of bringing you back to Inazuma. You think a Mora reward would be a good enough motivator for me to do that?”

“T-then why are you here?” You challenge, ever the skeptic. Childe can weave a tale of lies as much as he wants. That doesn’t mean you’ll allow yourself to be ensnared in it.

“I wanted to see how you’d react,” his nonchalant admission leaves you speechless. “Needless to say, you didn’t disappoint. A pretty face with the feist to match. I’m looking forward to getting to know you better.”

“Oh, fuck off with that,” you snarl, your vision almost going red from the fury holding you hostage. Now that you no longer need to play the subservient partner, vulgarities come to you with ease, and you have no shortage of them for this blight in the flesh.

Childe’s smile widens. “No can do, I’m afraid. My curiosity has gotten the better of me this time. Could I tame you? Break your spirit better than he did? So show me your resolve to be free, sweet [First].”

He readies himself and you do as well. It’s in the dull illumination of the overhead lanterns that you realize there is no light in his eyes. How fitting, you think. That even his body has come to accept his lack of humanity.

“Go on. I’ll give you a ten second head start. After that... well, you’ll just have to find out, won’t you?” 

#childe #childe x reader #yandere childe x reader #tartaglia x reader #scaramouche x reader #tartaglia #scaramouche genshin impact #yandere scaramouche x reader #genshin impact #genshin impact x reader #yandere genshin impact #genshin impact imagine #my stuff

[1000scrubs]

Round 1: Corporeal Dread

Writer Corporeal Dread’s entry for the initial prompts from 2 years ago

Nyfah scowled at the blinking light on her instrument cluster. She knew her calculations had been correct, but something was wrong. Her fuel was running out much faster than predicted, something had to be done to fix it, and it had to be done now. Sighing heavily she stood and made her way to the storage bay and began dragging her remaining provisions and weapons onto the bridge. 

After shoving as many crates as possible into the much smaller room she sealed the doors between the two areas, then, cursing quietly to herself, punched a button on the wall. She flinched as a loud siren began sounding, and the ship began to tremble violently. As the storage bay sheared away from the ship the screeching of metal grinding against metal melded into the cacophony of the blaring siren. Ears ringing, she desperately tried to shut it off. Pressing button after button, and typing commands into the ship’s interface yielded no results, until finally she ripped open a panel in the wall and sliced the cable providing power to the siren. 

Tensely Nyfah returned to her captain’s chair, as she sat, she turned her full attention to the radar and infrared sensor. It showed nothing but a dull blinking light of the storage bay falling away as the ship sped on. She watched as the light slowly disappeared, the abandoned piece of hull no longer in range. She waited another hour, monitoring the fuel gauge to determine if the reduced weight had worked. It seemed she was safe for now, and without the storage bay she would make it to Portunus.

——-

“LHY-825 requesting clearance to dock”. Nyfah’s voice sounded cracked and hoarse after hours of silence. 

The responding voice was cold and bureaucratic,“Noted LHY-825, please wait for confirmation.” 

Portunus was a small planet in one of the spiral “arms” of its galaxy located in the Virgo Supercluster, it was mainly used as a tourist destination and metropolitan hub. The entire outer surface had been converted into docking bays and landing ports, but beneath that, there was an entire multi-level subterranean city that held markets run by all sorts, from every corner of the known universe.The planet was usually visited by billions daily; however that number had dipped recently due to rumours of attacks and violence emerging from the lower levels of the planet. As a result there had been an increase in galactic enforcers and their patrol routes both on and around the planet, to ensure safety for the vendors and tourists. Nyfah knew she would have to be discreet so as to not get caught.

“LHY-825 you are cleared for landing, please proceed to bay 2593.” 

“LHY-825, proceeding to bay 2593.” She put down her transmitter and coasted the ship to her assigned landing bay. As the traction beam began pulling the ship in, she shut off its engines. 

Once her ship had come to a stop she changed into a delivery service uniform. She stretched as she disembarked stiff from sitting for so long then assessed the damage to the ship’s exterior. She breathed a sigh of relief, counting herself lucky that there was only minor external damage where the storage bay had been removed, and that she wouldn’t need to repair it right away. 

Nyfah inspected the fuel tank for external damage, and was annoyed to find an intermittent stream of liquid dripping out of a small bullet hole. She thought she had managed to bypass the galactic enforcer’s checkpoint without incurring damage by doing it in hyperspace, but it would appear otherwise. Knowing it would draw suspicion she glanced around casually, stepped in front of it, jabbed her knife into the hole and wiggled it back and forth.

Once the damage had been sufficiently disguised Nyfah ordered a quick-patch and a fuel refill, then picked up a small crate she had brought from the ship and stepped onto an elevator to the markets. 

——-

After a few moments in the dim elevator, playing quiet relaxing music, the doors slid open and a disorienting wave of noise, colour, and bright lights washed over Nyfah. In every direction neon signs flashed obnoxiously, many of the shop exteriors were overly adorned, trying to attract the highest number of customers possible. 

In all directions vendors shouted; advertising their wares, each trying to outsell the other. In addition to the ambient noise of the tourists shouting to each other to be heard over the vendors, Nyfah could barely hear herself think.

Groups in bizarre outfits bustled around the large open area excitedly motioning to each other. Most of them wore rich, vibrant, expensive fabrics and extravagant jewelry, likely rich tourists ready to spend their wealth. They contrasted harshly with who Nyfah figured were the planet’s inhabitants, visiting from the lower levels. The inhabitants were sparse compared to the densely packed tourists, and wore cheap plain materials in earthy tones.

The Portunians worked mainly to ensure the higher levels were functioning at their best for the tourists, and it was very rare for them to own any of the shops. The people were paid little and taxed by the number of inhabitants per level, causing them to live in perpetual poverty. 

Most of the shop owners had come to Portunus already very wealthy as the shops were also heavily taxed by the planetary government,in addition to the exorbitant annual lease fees. 

It was unlike any environment she had ever experienced before. She hated it, but she knew she was practically invisible here, she sighed feeling conflicted.

The areas around the elevators were large and cavernous. The walls looked like rough stone and dirt at first, but they were coated in a semi-shiny substance, most likely to strengthen them. The coating didn’t help with the awful lights. Tunnels lead off in other directions creating a honeycomb like shape, they were tall and wide and they all led to areas similar to the one side was in, making the markets very hard to navigate. 

Nyfah stepped out of the lift and shook off her stupor. She pulled up directions on her augmented retinal display (ARD) and began making her way through the crowds and kiosks.

Finally she found the shop she was looking for, it had a larger storefront than most of the other permanent shops and had a giant pink neon sign presenting its name, through the window she saw an array of garments, and all manner of showcases with figurines and other decorative artifacts. She stepped under the awning and made her way to the back of the store to the service counter.

She placed the crate on the desk, and said hesitantly “Hello, I’m looking for...Halsir.”

The tall, pink woman behind the counter turned around defensively. “Who’s asking?” 

“I have a rush delivery, the name on the order is Halsir”

Before Nyfah had even finished her sentence the woman was beaming and bouncing on her feet.

“Oh, you’re early! My sweet boy, he’s finally here! I’ve been beside myself” She squealed.

Nyfah, carefully pried the lid off the crate and stepped back.

Halsir gingerly lowered her hands into the box and lifted out a furry creature, it had a long slim neck and limbs, with bird-like feet, and a feline face.

“Hello sweetheart, how was the ride?” 

The creature chittered at the woman, and she turned a concerned gaze on Nyfah.

“He said there was a loud noise that scared him, I hope that you didn’t run into any trouble on the way here!”

Nyfah frowned at the tattletale pet “No ma’am. I had a minor mechanical issue and there was an alarm, it didn’t ring for long.”

The woman’s jovial smile returned to her face and she placed the creature onto the counter. “Wonderful dear, here you are.”

She tossed a small flat square into Nyfah’s outstretched hand and began retreating to the back room.

Nyfah stared at it, her arm still extended. “What am I supposed to do with this?” She asked incredulously “I require the second half of my payment! We agreed half up front and half upon delivery, I’ve kept my end of the deal!”

Halsir turned and smiled at her “Believe me dear, what you’ll find on that is worth much more than I could pay you”

Nyfah rolled her eyes “If it’s worth that much why are you giving it to me instead of what we agreed on?”

“Because!” Halsir walked back over, “I’m far too old and delicate to go treasure hunting. I was given good intel that this treasure is a grail, but none of my customers will buy the map! Anyone who is able to recover the goods will go down in history as the all-time best treasure hunter to ever live, the greatest honour and glory. Also to be honest with you I thought you were just a small-time smuggler, but I saw a poster just the other day and your bounty is quite high. I figured if you were able to find the treasure you could pay off the right people. I needed to get my sweet baby angel…”

Honour and glory? Nyfah’s eyes widened, she had been trying to make a name for herself for years. She was one of the best smugglers in the business; but being a smuggler meant staying under the radar. She wanted to be somebody. Rich, envied, maybe even mystic in reputation. This was an opportunity that could lead to all of that! If it was real…

“Wait, wait, wait,” Nyfah interrupted, “what is this so-called treasure, and how can you guarantee that it is what you say it is and that it will be there?”

“I got the intel from my supplier. He has never lied to me; I know I can trust him. As for what it is, it is an ancient relic said to depict a god so old no-one alive knows the religion it belonged to. Depictions of it were found in some ancient writings though” Halsir paused, trying to remember something.

Nyfah frowned, this whole thing could be some kind of trick.

“I’m going to need collateral” she finally responded, not realizing that Halsir had resumed talking. 

“I understand dear, you mysterious types aren’t very trusting. I’ll just pay you the second half of your fee” 

‘Mysterious types’ Nyfah thought smiling slightly, she paused, “all right, if I do find this treasure, I’ll come back and pay you a finders fee. If it isn’t, you’ll know your supplier is full of it.” 

“Deal.” Halsir handed the outstanding balance to Nyfah. “Good luck my dear.”

“Thanks, maybe I’ll see you later.” Nyfah called back, grinning, as she exited the shop.

——-

Nyfah held the square up to the light as she began the walk back to her ship. The tech was old, almost outdated, but her ship’s interface would be able to read it. As she slipped it into her pocket mulling over where it would lead, she bumped into someone, almost losing her balance.

“Oh, I’m so sorry!” She glanced up and felt her heart drop when she saw the enforcers patch.

“Stop right there. Show me your identification.” The enforcer’s voice was harsh.

Nyfah pulled out a fake ID and handed it over.

The two enforcers scanned it and one of them handed it back.

“Watch where you’re going. Don’t move.”

“Thank you” Nyfah took her ID and shoved it into her clothes.

She stood motionless, watching the enforcers as they discussed her retrieved data for any indication of suspicion. She noticed a group of tourists walking towards her; as they got close she stealthily swapped hats with one of them and flipped her jacket inside out. What had looked like a delivery uniform on one side became a dusty brown cape reaching almost to her knees, with a large hood. She slid the hood over her head and joined with the tourists, matching their pace and behaviour. She heard the enforcers start to shout to each other and the people around them. They were attempting to stop people in clothing similar to her delivery uniform — luckily they hadn’t seen where she had gone. As the group around her started to stop and turn around, her heart racing, Nyfah began speed walking, following her ARD back to her ship.

She broke out into a run as she turned a corner and got halfway to her ship when she came upon another group of enforcers. As she ran past she heard them say something about a suspicious delivery person. 

Good, she thought. Her disguise was holding. 

“You there!Slow down!” One of the enforcers yelled after her.

Nyfah slipped her hand over the handle of a baton she had hidden in her cloak.

“Yes sir!” She shouted back, and shifted back to a fast walking pace.

She glanced back to see they had returned to their conversation.

She managed to get back to the elevator without getting in any more trouble and breathed a sigh of relief as the doors closed and the lift began ascending.

——-

Nyfah felt the dread creep back up her spine as she stepped out of the elevator. An enforcer was inspecting her ship as another stood guard. They must have matched her uniform and description with the security feed to find her ship. She had to find a way to sneak on board.

Calmly walking past her ship, Nyfah set her sights on another craft in the same bay. It was small, barely held together by assembled bits of scrap, and after easily circumventing the door lock she crept quietly inside. She furrowed her brow in disappointment upon finding that the interface was extremely simple and limited; it would not be able to read the chip from Halsir. It was what she had expected from the dilapidated exterior of the ship, but it could still be useful. 

She connected a remote control device to the interface and exited the ship, ensuring to re-secure the door lock. She once again walked past her ship, this time heading back to the elevator, but ducked behind a wall before reaching it. Using her ARD Nyfah powered up the engines of the run-down ship. Once she heard the sound of the door being rammed by the enforcers she made a break for her ship. Once onboard she plopped into her captain's chair and fired her engines at full burn. 

She increased the thrusters and felt the ship lurch and pitch as it tried to get airborne, then it began pulling away from the landing bay. 

“LHY-825 you are not cleared for takeoff! I repeat you are not cleared for takeoff! Land your ship immediately!” The ship’s speakers crackled as though they were trying to properly relay the anger she could hear in the orders.

She smirked and cut communication, there was no way she was following that command.

Narrowly dodging the carefully organized chaos of incoming and outgoing vessels, Nyfah heard Portunus’ emergency response siren start and saw enforcer cruisers closing in on her. Far ahead she saw the Planetary Defense Shields starting to close. Seeing the other ships trying to get out of the way, Nyfah slammed her thrusters to full. Her ship heaved violently and she felt an intense pressure pinning her into her seat. 

The pressure worsened as she careened toward the atmosphere, and as she approached the Defense shield she felt the pressure blossom into pain. It felt as though she may explode, fighting with all her might she lifted her arm to the thruster and pulled it back. As her ship slowed the pressure lightened, and what had been immense pain reduced to a dull ache. She had cleared the shield and was leaving the atmosphere, there was hope yet.

——-

Nyfah had managed to escape into open space, however several of the galactic enforcer cruisers pursuing had managed to get through as well. Luckily they were far behind her as they had not used her aggressive flying tactics. Now that she was free of the atmosphere she redeployed the thrusters to full. 

She took the opportunity to plug the treasure map chip into her ship, then linked up her ARD. A holo map popped up, showing her current location and that of the treasure. She studied the map closely. The ‘god relic’ was in the same galaxy, on a planet close to the centre. It was going to take a while to get there, even travelling through hyperspace. A flashing light accompanied by a steady beeping pulled Nyfah out of her thoughts; someone was trying to hail her on the open communication channel.

She pushed a button to receive the transmission and was greeted by a stern voice “-no authorization for take-off, stop your ship immediately for boarding.”

Nyfah weighed her options before deciding that her best course of action was to enter hyperspace. The galactic enforcers would not be able to follow her without coordinates, they could try to follow her trajectory, but they would have no idea of where she was going or why so none of their estimations would be helpful.

Nyfah smirked as she prepped and engaged the hyperdrive. Once she entered hyperspace, she decided to pull up any relevant information on her destination planet. It was nearly 25,000 light years away from Portunus, and had once been inhabited by a small population of the human species who had tried to prepare it for permanent habitation; however they had withdrawn for an unknown reason. It had been devoid of life ever since. She would not be able to breathe it’s atmosphere, so she made sure she had an exploration suit ready.

The planet was named QRNS-3858, but had been affectionately nicknamed Quirinus by the humans. It had mostly a rocky surface with some large areas of liquid water. It looked like she would be landing at one of the abandoned human colonies.

It had been a millennia since there had been reports of human contact, as they had taken to disguising themselves as other species when on their own and there were rumours that they had hidden civilizations across the universe, but did not like interacting with others. Either way it was unlikely she would run into one.

Nyfah settled in for the long journey ahead.

——-

As she came out of hyperspace she was alarmed to see everything around her ship slowly moving away from her. After a few moments it seemed to have stopped, but she realized that it was because her ship was now a part of whatever was happening. She was slowly being pulled into the direction of Quirinus. As she cautiously increased her speed, Nyfah felt her skin tingling with apprehension.

Suddenly she noticed a thin golden bloom in the distance that was rapidly expanding into a plume. Confused, Nyfah turned on all of her scanners. She felt her blood run cold as she realized that beyond Quirinus at the centre of the galaxy was a supermassive black hole. What had become a glittering cloud in the light of the nearby stars could only be a quasar, a large amount of space dust escaping the huge black hole.

It had now become a race; Nyfah had to get to Quirinus before what had quickly become a massive wave of space dust got to her. To make matters worse, the strange pull she had observed earlier was now seemingly trying to push her away. Gritting her teeth Nyfah diverted all of her power to her engines and maxed her throttle to get her to top speed.

Her ship began to rattle and shake as she approached the huge wave. She was only a few minutes away from reaching Quirinus’ atmosphere, but she wasn’t sure she was going to make it. The wave had spread so that she could no longer see the inky blackness of space. As the dust enveloped the planet, she began to doubt if landing would be any safer than being where she was now. Soon the dust began hitting her ship and, cursing, Nyfah quickly diverted some power to her shields. Silent warnings and flashing lights began popping up, and she knew her ship wouldn’t be able to last much more of the beating it was receiving. Her shields were failing when she made it to the atmosphere, but she had made it. She greatly reduced her speed as she approached the planet’s surface.

Nyfah pulled up the map again, and followed the location tag to colony 4. She landed her ship and pulled on her exploration suit. She began disembarking and grunting with effort,  heaved the exterior door open. Little bits of debris that had been trapped in the seams of the door clattered to the ground, bouncing off her helmet and shoulders as she stepped out. Checking the damage; she found all of the paint was stripped clean off, and there were gouges where larger rocks had cleaved into the ship. She shivered considering what would have happened if she had been in the storm a few minutes longer. There were scorch marks covering most of the surface, and the damage was especially bad around the area where she had removed the storage bay. She would probably be able to leave Quirinus without any major issues, but it was going to take some work.

She looked up to see the dust storm had created a fiery rain as everything entering the atmosphere burned up. Luckily most of it was completely incinerated before reaching the ground, but every now and then a palm sized rock would smack into the ground. Nyfah began her search wary of the celestial menacing.

——-

Several dwellings later, to her excitement, Nyfah came across a large locked box that matched the image on the holo-map. She broke the lock and pried open the box.

She felt adrenaline surge through her like electricity as she reached in and pulled out the relic. It was beautiful, intricate and delicate looking. She was surprised it had lasted this long. It appeared to be a small statuette depicting a red haired warrior holding a jewelled sword, resting in its sheath, at his right hip. His short hair, blue headscarf and tattered red lined cape billowed in an invisible wind. Glittering blue armour rested on top of a blue and white tunic with gold adornments. He stood atop what looked like a golden coin in red and brown boots, blue knee armour adorning wide, flared white boot coverings. A small clear cube encased the relic attached to a stiff paper backing with an enlarged picture of the little god on a background of green.

In the top right was an intricate symbol, one of the characters matching the symbol on the coin the god was standing on except it was on fire. The bottom right hand corner had a friendly looking symbol with three brightly coloured squares on each side. In a darker green than the background beneath the picture of the warrior there were three large characters, most likely depicting his name, R O Y.

Nyfah wasn’t sure what it said, but she would be able to cross reference it with the writings Halsir had mentioned. She made her way back to her ship in a state of bliss, she had found the treasure.

——-

Who: An alien being pursued by the government What: looking for a Roy amiibo waiting to be opened When: in an impending tsunami zone/area Where: in the first inhabitable planet outside this solar system Why: for the fame and glory

#5w story #short story #round 1 #placeholder tag 4 #placeholder tag 5 #corporeal dread #sci fi #space adventure

[aliandrasrhoyne]

The Women Who Walked The Desert

Whenever we think about GoT the first thing that comes to mind is dragons, ice zombies and the disaster that was the final season. But only readers know that it has been inaccurate since they decided to write a storyline without its main pov. And yes, I’m talking about Dorne and Arianne Martell.

But despite its many failures, there was only one thing pretty accurate, the location. They chose the Real Alcázar in Seville, one of the many monuments erected during the 800-year period in which arabs dominated the peninsula and multiculturalism was appreciated in the bib-ramblas as 3 different cultures coexisted in the same caliphate.

Today we’re going to take a look at The Queenmaker and analyze her caricature as that of her family relationship and love affairs with that of other relevant figure in the culture of Al-Andalus for being the most important poetess.

Wallada bint al-Mustakfi

Her father rose from his chair to kiss her on both cheeks. "The fate of Dorne goes with you, daughter," he said. [...] She did not shed a tear. Arianne Martell was a princess of Dorne, and Dornishmen did not waste water lightly.

Like Arianne, Wallada was a princess and the daughter of Muhammad III of Córdoba, one of the last Umayyad Cordoban caliphs.

"You know me, captain," Arianne had said, as the leagues rolled past. "You have known me since I was little. You always kept me safe, as you kept my lady mother safe when you came with her from Great Norvos to be her shield in a strange land.”

Wallada’s mother, Amin'am, was brought from the distant lands of Hungary. But if we look closely, Norvos has a lot of similarities with Budapest;

Situated among the hills of Norvos, on a tributary of the Rhoyne, a major river on the continent of Essos. / Budapest sits on the eastern edge of Transdanubia (a hilly region extending from the Danube to the Alps).

Gateway for caravans travelling on the ancient Valyrian roads. / Budapest being situated at the crossroads of international trade routes from Eurasia.

Norvos is a city is split in two, the High City which is on a hill and the Low City on the river. / Budapest is split in two. Buda sits on the hills on the western size of the river while Pest sits on the plain to the east of the river.

Norvos is surrounded by small walled villages supporting the main city. /  King Bela IV ordered the construction of stone walls around villages after the Mongol invasion.

Home of the bearded priests. / Order of the Dragon & Order of Saint George

There were Myrish carpets on the floor, red wine to drink, books to read. In one corner stood an ornate cyvasse table with pieces carved of ivory and onyx, though she had no one to play with even if she had been so inclined. She had a featherbed to sleep in, and a privy with a marble seat, sweetened by a basketful of herbs. [...]  She found a cedar chest full of her clothes at the foot of her bed, so she stripped out of the travel-stained garb she had slept in and donned the most revealing garments she could find, wisps of silk.

Dorne's economy was able to keep them independent from House Targaryen for so long, but how is that possible when they don't have gold mines like the Lannisters or agriculture like the Tyrells? Very simple, the use of water to plant unique fruits that need a warm climate like citrus or olives and the trade relations they have with Essos. Being descendants of the Rhoynar, they have a closer contact with the Archon of Tyrosh or the merchants of Qarth. That’s how Doran met Mellario in the first place.

In Al-Andalus, an irrigation system was also created that went through the subsoil of the Caliphate and thanks to arranged marriages, they won ivory and silk brought from distant China. This is the case of Wallada's mother, being the daughter of a merchant who offered his services in exchange for his daughter rising to a better social position by marrying the caliph.

The decline of the caliphate would begin with the Ottoman-Hungarian wars (1366) that blocked many trade routes and the caliphate soon began to weaken as it was surrounded by enemies (Christian kingdoms in the north and Berbers in the south), which would later generate a disintegration until they were reduced in the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada (1230-1492).

However, Prince Doran did not mean for her to wed a Dornishman. [...]  When Arianne reached the age of marriage, Doran presented her with several suitors, all of whom were elderly lords (including Ben Beesbury, Walder Frey, Gyles Rosby, Eldon Estermont, and Hugh Grandison), while rejecting an offer from Lord Hoster Tully, who had invited Arianne to travel to Riverrun and meet his heir Edmure. Arianne refused all of the elderly suitors.

Wallada’s father, Muhámmad III, came to power on January 11, 1024 by assassinating the previous caliph Abderramán V. This generated a turbulent reign, since many didn’t agree that he governed without having been elected before. 

That is why, just having a daughter as an heir, he thought, like Doran, to betroth her to eldery Christian dukes and counts of the north to preserve his lineage and annex certain lands, but this only generated more tension and ended up being murdered with poison in Uclés.

Days came and went, one after the other, so many that Arianne lost count of how long she had been imprisoned. She found herself spending more and more time abed, until she reached the point where she did not rise at all except to use her privy. The meals the servants brought grew cold, untouched. Arianne slept and woke and slept again, and still felt too weary to rise. Fresh meals replaced the old ones, but she did not eat them either. Once, when she felt especially strong, she carried all the food to the window and flung it out into the yard, so it would not tempt her. The effort exhausted her, so afterward she crawled back into bed and slept for half a day.

After her father’s death, Wallada was taken away from the capital to a summer residence used by the royal family called "Medina Azahara" and left isolated for a month. During that time they were debating what to do with her as she was the last of the Umayyad dynasty, one of the 4 lineages that dated back to the time of Muhammad.

Unlike Arianne who was confined in a tower, Wallada could go out to the gardens as long as she did not go outside the permitted perimeter. During that time she wrote poetry that resemble Arianne's charisma and way of being;

I am fit for high positions by Allah and am going my way with pride. I allow my lover to touch my cheek and bestow my kiss on him who craves it.

Wallada was lucky that her father's death coincided with the splendor of the political career of Abu ‘l Hazm of the Banu Jawahr. He established a republic with a council of ministers (called wazirs) to advise him. It was for this reason that after being confined, they gave Wallada her father's fortune in exchange for distancing herself from royalty.

Abu al-Waleed Ahmad Ibn Zaydun was, like Wallada, a member of the noble classes. Like Gerold Dayne being famously known as “The Sword of The Night”, he was called “The Scribe of The Night” for being the stage of the day where he had more inspiration to write his poems.

The two wrote poems back and forth, and the entire court was soon buzzing with gossip about the affair between the dashing young wazir and the beautiful princess. And then, it all began to go sour. Wallada caught him with another man and betrayed her trust, like Gerold did with Arianne after trying to kill Myrcella.

You were for me nothing but a sweetmeat that I took a bite of and then tossed away the crust, leaving it to be gnawed on by a rat.

Poison, thought Arianne. Yes. Pretty poison, though. That was how he'd fooled her. [...] Pretty boys had ever been her weakness, particularly the ones who were dark and dangerous as well.

Anyway, thanks for reading! I had a lot of fun looking into this and pulling some comparisons out. Arab culture is so underrated so I hope curiosity has awakened them some of the people that crossed with this post. Keep calm waiting for twow and Unbow, Unbent, Unbroken!

#asoiaf #asoiafmeta #arianne martell #house martell #al-andalus #princess #dorne #freecities #sunspear #watergardens #doran martell #darkstar

[sartorialonce]

Emma Swan’s wedding gown: an astonishing failure by any metric

(Many, many pictures in this post.)

I hope that, as readers of this blog, you know that I have a great deal of respect for the work of Eduardo Castro on this show. It was with dismay that I began analyzing this dress last season, when friends began asking me to talk about it. I like talking about the successes—negative analysis can be fun and cathartic and all, but analyzing something that works, in order to understand why it’s really that good, is at least as valuable, if not more so. But sometimes, a thing is really that bad, and that’s where we are today. I hope everyone understands that this is a critique of this garment, not an analysis of the character.

But let me be very clear: this dress was poorly made, poorly fitted, and poorly suited to the medium.

Arguably the most famous wedding gown ever made is that of Grace Kelly, worn for the Catholic ceremony of her wedding to Prince Rainier of Monaco (the pair had been married in a civil ceremony the day before). Kelly’s gown was designed by a costume designer from MGM Studios, Helen Rose. Rose was a two-time Oscar-winning designer and ten-time nominee. She had designed costumes for Kelly several times, and she was also a well-regarded wedding gown designer.

This gown is without question her most famous work, and its influence has been far-reaching. Fifty-five years later, a dress inspired by Kelly’s was worn by Kate Middleton for her wedding to Prince William. Several European princesses of the same generation have also drawn inspiration from this gown.

Emma Swan’s wedding gown, however, does not draw inspiration from Kelly’s. It is a copy, and not even a good one.

Let’s start from the top.

The Juliet cap

It’s easy to underestimate just how ubiquitous hats were in American fashion at one time. Hats were a standard accessory both for men and women. In the 1950s, many women’s hats were far more decorative than functional, like the Juliet cap.

The Juliet cap has its roots in Renaissance Europe, when earlier traditions of women completely covering their hair had evolved into pieces that partially covered the head and accentuated hairstyling. This was true of the 50s version as well. The chignon was a popular hairstyle to pair with a Juliet cap. The Renaissance versions were often a net (beaded or plain) that held hair in place; by the 50s it was most likely to be a solid hat. Today the Juliet cap is strictly bridal, usually more like the earliest versions than the 20th-century ones.

Arguably it was the cap which doomed this costume. This piece, more than any other part, pegs this as a vintage design. The dress itself has had innumerable imitators over the last sixty years. The Juliet cap has not achieved that staying power. In Emma’s case, the cap goes awry on a few counts. First, the lace itself lacks the delicacy of the original. It’s coarser and lacks most of the tiny beads. Second, it’s way too big for her head. It touches her ear, while the original was about half an inch above. Third, the placement of the flower band makes it look like it’s sliding off the back of her head.

The final nail in the coffin is the actual outline of the piece. It’s hard to tell if they actually failed to copy the original accurately or if that original shape just doesn’t work well with JMo’s hairline. Either is possible.

If they had just given her a tiara, or braided her hair into a crown with flowers—well, I’d still be talking about how bad this dress is, but I bet a lot of other people wouldn’t have fixated on it and I’d just be stewing about it privately instead of writing a 3,000-word post about it.

Styling

I’m no hair-and-makeup expert, but to my eye this is all too severe. A softer lip color would have gone a long way toward helping this. The hairstyle may look really pretty in the back but we’ll never know because it’s covered up with a veil. I’m honestly a little surprised they stuck a veil on her at all, but we’ll get to that later. Anyway, what we can see of the hair is all repressed-librarian-chic and that is so not the intent of this look. At least I’m pretty sure. It’s also worth noting that while Kelly wore her hair up, she still had more volume to her hair than Emma does here.

Quality

There are some weird and frankly unprofessional quality problems with this costume.

The first and most noticeable problem is the seams of the lace jacket. I’ll be blunt: lace can be hard to work with. We’ve seen lace on costumes on Once before, but it’s often been handled using a technique called underlining. With underlining you layer two pieces of fabric together and treat them as though they’re one piece. For example, Snow’s white dress from 1.11 has lace on the bodice that was constructed this way. A major reason for underlining when you can is that it hides all the raw edges inside the garment.

However, when a garment is just lace, like this jacket, the preferred method is to hide the seams with the lace itself. This is done by cutting pieces larger than needed, following the motifs of the lace pattern. Then the irregular edge is appliquéd over the seam line, effectively hiding it. Kelly’s jacket is so well constructed that seams are virtually invisible.

I have to give some credit to the wardrobe folks, because they did actually use this appliqué technique on this jacket (which, when I first saw low-resolution images, I thought they did not). However, the motifs on this lace are so sparse that it doesn’t do a very good job of hiding the seams. And then, for reasons I suspect I will never understand, they decided to bind the seams. They took a white fabric and covered up the raw edges of the lace, so instead of masking the seams, they made them more obvious.

The thing is, those princess seams on the front are very unusual. Most princess seams are perpendicular to the waist and either run to the armhole or the shoulder seam, rather than creating that odd diamond shape. So the shape is odd and the seams are super-visible, and it starts calling attention to how it’s made. Those seams were in fact the first thing I noticed when I saw this dress, and I stand by what I said at the time: those seams are visible from space.

The seams on the sleeves are even more perplexing. At least the rest of the seams were all trimmed down, but the seam allowances on these are so wide. It’s like somebody forgot to trim and bind those seams or ran out of time. In some shots it appears that the side seams were treated similarly. This is just not standard practice, even if you discount the admittedly time-consuming process of hiding seams in lace. Standard practice is that whatever method you use to finish seam allowances—serging, French seams, flat-felled seams, Hong Kong finish, no finish at all—you use it for all seams in the garment. Especially when the seam allowances are visible from the right side.

Then there’s the buttoned opening of the jacket. Someone tried really hard to mirror the lace across the opening. They didn’t quite make it, which makes it more jarring than not trying to mirror the lace at all would have been.

On the back, the armhole has been cut in the strangest shape I’ve seen in a long time. Because this is lace, you can actually see where her underarm is and how far away the curve of the armhole sits. It looks like someone cut the front and back of the armhole symmetrically. The front is usually cut with a deeper curve than the back because the arm actually sits forward on the body and you need more room for forward movement than backward. This is just a weird choice and feels very much like a mistake.

Lastly, there’s the collar. Well, there’s not a separate collar here, technically, because there is no seam attaching a collar piece to the body. So this is actually a neckline. The salient point is, it’s badly off-center and there’s no good excuse for that. If I had to guess, I’d say someone failed to account for the placket while cutting the fabric. Or possibly that on one front piece, they measured from the edge and on the other front piece they measured from the center front (which in this case would be the line of buttons).

It’s just shoddy workmanship. Inexplicably shoddy workmanship.

Fit, or lack thereof

The bodice is too tight. This is a common problem in JMo’s custom-made costume pieces. There is stress and strain absolutely everywhere at even modest movement. Lace also doesn’t recover from stretching as well as some other fabrics, so the wrinkles caused by that strain tend to remain after the strain is reduced.

Even the bodice of the gown itself is too tight, as evidenced in this BTS picture. I have a very strong suspicion that this is the reason the pleats are off-center in other BTS pictures. Sometimes a garment being too tight will cause it to creep either up or around (or both).

The cummerbund is also too tight, but there are some other issues with that piece which we’ll get to shortly.

Straight lines vs. curves

Straight horizontal elements are rarely a good idea in clothing design. Most of the time, even if you appear to have a horizontal line, it’s actually a gentle curve. Waistlines, for example, are usually drafted a little higher in back and lower in front. It’s more aesthetically pleasing because straight lines on the body are pretty unnatural for most people, and a curve also tends to fit better than a straight horizontal seam.

Why use straight lines when gentle curves are more flattering? Straight lines are easier and faster. We’ll talk about that toward the end.

In this case, straight lines have been substituted in place of the original curves at the neckline of the gown (not the jacket) and the cummerbund. The original has an elegant sweetheart neckline that dips in the middle. The curve suggests the contour of the body without revealing anything. The curve of the cummerbund serves a similar purpose. It’s all about framing her figure in a flattering manner.

What went wrong with Emma’s? The neckline is kind of dipped—maybe a little—but not enough to be noticeable. The cummerbund is straight too, meaning instead of showing off her figure, it flattens everything.

Proportions

The most baffling choice to me in this garment is the changes in proportions of the bodice. The bodice of Helen Rose’s original design is all about the rule of threes. There are three sections—cummerbund, lace over gown, and lace alone—and each is roughly the same size. In particular, the high cummerbund gives visual lift to the bust. It’s all in service of the silhouette. The swan neck and the narrow, extra-long sleeves emphasize the vertical element of the design. The waist is also slightly high, which brings the eye upward to the more interesting parts of the dress.

As you can probably tell, the cummerbund of the costume has been significantly altered from the original. It’s much, much narrower, with a straight top edge instead of a curve. Kelly’s had a few well-defined pleats; this one is a mess. The edge that’s flipped up is also a sign that it’s too tight.

But more important is how the change to proportion and shape affects the whole. Instead of framing the bust, this flat neckline and narrow cummerbund make her torso look flatter. It’s the most baffling change they made in my opinion.

Less baffling is why they changed the train. You can’t really dance in a dress with six feet of fabric trailing behind you. But in that case, why have a train at all? Why have one this anemic? This looks like a mistake, and if they hadn’t done this, I wouldn’t now be complaining about how crappy that hem is. And yeah, the section on quality problems was a while ago, but the wild thing about this dress is that it’s nearly impossible to separate all its problems into single categories, and now you know why it’s taken me nearly a year to get around to writing this post despite the absurd amount of time I’ve been thinking about it.

The length of the veil was likely altered for the same reason (Kelly’s was floor-length), but could they have picked a more awkward length?

Updating period garments

In the post on Emma’s pink date dress, I talked some about recreating period garments. Helen Rose’s design would have been made to wear with a 50s-style bra, obviously, but also a girdle to shape the waist and a crinoline to shape the skirt. Not wearing appropriate undergarments for the design has a huge effect on how the garment looks. If you’re going to make this literal a copy of a garment, then you really need to go all in with the whole look. On the set of various Star Trek series, Robert Blackman famously had custom underwear made for everyone who wore a Starfleet uniform. Undergarments are that important.

If they weren’t going to have JMo in a girdle (which for the record I do not blame anyone for choosing not to do), then the crinoline needed to be larger. A critical part of the silhouette of the original dress is the waist-to-hip ratio. Emma’s version puffs out a little but not nearly as dramatically. The crinoline seems to be the one place where they attempted to modernize the dress at all. But instead of really updating it and using an A-line silhouette, they kept the bell shape and just made it less bell-shaped. Attempting to adhere to the original silhouette but not doing it at all faithfully is a large part of why this copy is so lackluster and unpolished.

Context

The original garment was designed for a royal wedding in a Catholic country, pre-Vatican II. Its modesty is in deference to those factors. This was a gown meant to look regal, even statuesque in photographs.

Emma Swan’s wedding is a musical number. She needed a dress for dancing. What she got is incredibly awkward. The skirt doesn’t swish nicely when she moves. It is, in fact, so heavy that whenever she spins around, she looks like she’s in danger of being knocked down by the skirt’s momentum. The tightness of the jacket is really exacerbated whenever she lifts her arms, which is a thing that happens pretty often while dancing. And the veil—the veil. That thing swings around so wildly that I’m amazed no one on set stepped in and had her take it off. There are shots where it looks like it’s going to whack her in the face.

It just looks like she’s being attacked and swallowed up by this monstrosity of a gown, and it’s shocking to me that anyone with any notion of how clothing behaves would look at the original gown and say “yes, this will be great for a dance number.”

I don’t want to get much into questions of “would Emma Swan wear this,” but... would she? Is she a big fan of Grace Kelly? Hugely fond of 50s style? Where did this dress even come from in the universe of the show? It wasn’t there at the beginning of the episode when she was looking at dresses. Was it custom made by some seamstress in town? Are we supposed to believe it was conjured up with magic? And if that’s the case why didn’t they show us that? It’s a show about fairy tales and they’re not going to take the opportunity to do a Cinderella-style magical dress?

This doesn’t feel like a decision made in the universe of the show. It feels like someone fixated on this dress and to hell with making any logical sense within the story.

Feasibility

Grace Kelly’s gown was made in the MGM costume workshop. Helen Rose had a team of 36 seamstresses to construct it, and it took them six weeks to complete. That’s thousands of hours of labor from some of the most skilled dressmakers in the country.

I don’t know how many people Eduardo Castro had working on this, but I doubt he had a staff of 36. I know they didn’t have six weeks—Castro has said that they only had two weeks to make it. (They also only had one fitting, which... explains a lot.) With those constraints, and a TV budget, making a good copy of this dress simply was not possible.

But Castro and his team have made beautiful gowns under the same restrictions before, so what’s the difference here? Castro’s most successful designs have been ones where the design itself is relatively simple. Most of the garments worn in the show are of relatively basic construction. The richness comes from the textiles used, like sarees or quilted fabrics. Patterns were also reused. Snow’s gown in 1.11 is the same pattern as Belle’s in 1.12. These are smart shortcuts for a workshop that doesn’t have unlimited time or budget. The latter in particular had a twofold benefit: it established a consistent style for the universe of the show, and it streamlined the work for Castro’s team.

The worst costumes produced for this show have been the ones that step outside of the design language Castro established early on, notably Elsa and Ingrid’s gowns. This one suffers from the same problem. Instead of starting from a known pattern, they had to start from scratch. Pattern drafting requires time, and as I noted in an earlier section, the jacket in particular has some unusual and challenging features that would need a lot of precision to get right. By picking a design where they couldn’t rely on the time-saving methods they had developed over the years, their ability to produce a high-quality garment was immediately hampered. This is probably part of the reason they used straight lines instead of curves to the detriment of the garment, why the seam finishes on the lace are so inconsistent and bad, and why something as simple as the pleats on the skirt look so sloppy.

And that’s not even getting into the budget. The materials alone for Kelly’s dress cost more than $70,000 in today’s money. The lace jacket was made from Brussels lace made in the 1830s. This was quite simply not something that could be replicated well on the budget of a network television series.

There is to my mind an ethical issue as well. Days of publicity went by before anyone mentioned that this dress was a copy of Helen Rose’s work. Almost immediately a narrative sprang up that Morrison had “helped design” Emma’s wedding gown, but this notion is patently false. No design went into this, only minor tweaks of another artist’s seminal work.

Helen Rose was highly acclaimed in her day, but her lasting legacy is Grace Kelly’s wedding gown. Her work deserves better homage than this poorly conceived and poorly executed disaster.

#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #emma swan #ouat costume details #ouat costume historical reference

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Embroidery The Changing Face Of Fleece When Not Using CUSTOMIZED PATCHES<br> Abide by these tips for far better needlework on a new generation of fleecewear.<br> You've probably heard it previously, but the adhering to old proverb frequently proves out: Change is the only constant you can rely on. The technological improvement has not only made details offered, nevertheless it also has actually basically modified the method we live. If you use CUSTOM PATCHES, you can do an easy task.<br> We do not acquire "general delivery," watch tv or most likely to bricks-and-mortar stores as a lot any type of longer. Rather, we send out sms message, stream flicks as well as likewise shop online. If you do not change, it's harder to operate in modern society. I recently needed to send by mail a billing to somebody and was attempting to keep in mind the last time I had in fact done that. The concept and also actual method appear so international currently.<br> In business, if your consumers find you behind the minutes, they might not be as likely to do company with you. This goes beyond merely payment systems or an internet existence; it additionally can define your product offerings. Remaining updated by providing existing designs is essential in our service. We additionally need to rely on date on garment-decorating approaches as well as also fads.<br> A number of the line of product that we previously never ever believed would absolutely change have been customized with new products along with color procedures. One example of this is fleecewear. The sweat tee t shirts of the past enabled and also thick. Hoodies were only put on when training or working out (believe Rocky Balboa), and also they can be located in a handful of tones, most significantly grey. To improve them, embroiderers would merely slap a product of heavy took off sight behind them as well as also stitch.<br> Currently, we are seeing fleece enter into a larger fashion statement. It is offered in every style in addition to color under the rainbow, and additionally has actually acquired thinner, also.<br> As designs have modified, fleece has come to be a lot less worrying heat. Performance weaved products are made use of in a number of fleecewear alternatives, which presently include the garment-dyed along with burnout arrays. Weights likewise have transformed; they have really gone from being constructed from large cotton in the 7.5- to 9-ounce, selection, to being created of slim and also light products. Many remain in the T-shirt weight collection of 6-6.5 ounces.<br> The building nowadays's fleecewear has a bearing on precisely how we come close to sewing it. The common hefty blew up view stabilizer often is likewise thick in addition to will certainly reveal with the slim product. However, fleece is stretchier than ever, so it requires the added stablizing.<br> Luckily, much of the problems embroiderers face when collaborating with fleece coincide as the now-established line of efficiency knit golf shirts as well as also tees. The difference is that styles commonly tend to be larger on fleecewear, as opposed to being limted to left-chest as well as sleeve positionings.<br> <br> 1. Get the Right Backing<br> Just like any type of type of garment, selecting the very best backing to preserve it is very important. More recent fleece designs have even more stretch than ever before as well as are thinner. This suggests they need stablizing. Nonetheless, a thick exploded view assistance may create an impact with the material. For situations similar to this, it is best to use two or three pieces of tearaway assistance.<br> Even better, use a no-show mesh exploded view support. Its big nature preserves it from revealing through the front, yet it has the security of a cutaway stabilizer. For denser layouts, a mix of tearaway along with no-show mesh is favored. The tearaway includes security. Just ensure to put it under to make removal less complex.<br> 2. Don't Pull It<br> As a result of the raised stretch in addition to slim nature of some much more recent fleece garments, even more treatment is called for during hooping. The wonderful guideline when it relates to elastic weaved products certainly applies: Don't pull on the garment after it is hooped. Knits prolong easily as well as extra level than vertically. This stretch will batter your design once it is released from the hoop and likewise goes back to its loosened up condition.<br> It is better to keep the hoop a little looser while the garment is being hooped, and also later on tighten it once it is in the hoop. By doing this, it can be thoroughly attracted to do away with creases without expanding the product.<br> 3. Heel to Toe<br> An added method to stay clear of extending the garment while hooping it is to push the bottom of the hoop into the outer ring first, then line up as well as draw to acquire whatever straight and smooth before pushing the top of the hoop right into area.<br> This is an excellent general method. It is more vital when hooping flexible products to make certain the fabric is smooth, nevertheless not also limited, when hooping.<br> 4. Top it Off<br> As a result of fleece's appearance, it's an exceptional concept to use some kind of topping product. This product aids the design's rug in quiting the stitches from sinking into the product. Fleece garments often tend to have blurred area. Covering assists keep this managed by holding the surface area down till the padding as well as leading stitches make it degree.<br> 5. Don't Wander Too Far<br> Whenever you are developing big styles, such as those that would generally happen sweat t shirts, it is best to run in sections instead of stitching the entire design simultaneously. This could suggest setting out a location or letter initially. This approach is especially valuable on stretchy products. Over a huge area, a mild change or stretch will recommend your outline may not be lined up in specific areas.<br> This in addition holds true for appliqués. For instance, you require to sew appliquéd words one letter at once as opposed to trying to place the positioning line down for all the letters at the same time. Making use of the last approach, the chances of the registration being off by the end of words would be a lot greater because of the fact that you would certainly be attempting to cover a huge location.<br> 6. Make it Match<br> With all the focus on newer fleecewear layouts, it makes sense to match the embroidery style with the garment.<br> Today's fleecewear usually has a tendency to have a weather-beaten look. Putting a crisp, high-tech-looking design on a garment might provide a plain contrast along with out-of-place look.<br> Using tone-on-tone thread shades, or even generating a retro-looking design, would certainly be a far better option. On bigger points, think about raw-edge appliqué, which requires much less accuracy than regular appliqué, as well as additionally you can use a current style.<br> To do raw-edge appliqué, just stitch the placement line as you would absolutely with a typical appliqué. The difference is that you after that reduced the item a little larger than the placement line. Sometimes, you do not call for to do a complete satin-stitch border on the appliqué item, just a running-stitch tack down. The exposed side of the material will absolutely battle royal gradually (you can assist at the same time if you would certainly like), creating the weather-beaten look that matches the garment.<br> Time development therefore do styles. Our task as clothes decorators is to maintain as well as additionally adapt with what we give. Surpassing that to improve the garments can establish a lot more positive outcome for our customers, which's what keeps them returning. learn more

[curryleonars93]

Bacterial Vaginosis After Sex Staggering Ideas

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Bacterial Vaginosis And Cervicitis Symptoms

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Bacterial Vaginosis Gel Treatment

Bacterial Vaginosis Gone Forever Review was made to educate and inform women on the list for consideration.The reason antibiotics are one of the many women often turn out to be less effective and less stressed, and when you go back to acidicAfter that, eating yogurt every single bacterium, the bad bacteria in the vagina is antibiotics and within a few dollars you can try is douching with green tea.The vagina harbors millions of women who use conventional medication you may already have an intimate moment with your partner refuses, tell them what Bacterial Vaginosis thrive on that sugar well after you've had recurrent bacterial vaginosis natural cures to be a cause.These medications typically DO work when women wear tight clothes made of Margosa leaves powder

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[theaxtorres]

Ethnic Faux Paus

With the Philippines being home to various minorities, it can be easy to unconsciously disrespect the rich culture behind traditional creations.

Beyond the visuals of art and design is the culture that was able to create it. From the knowledge and history of a local heritage, minorities and their people continue to uphold a commemoration of systems, traditions, and beliefs by turning them into distinct designs and styles passed from generation to generation. Yet, without context about these creations, the act of disrespecting their culture can easily end up as one’s cross to bear.

According to Cambridge Dictionary, cultural appropriation is the adoption of the elements of a culture that is not one’s own. Meanwhile, in a 2017 interview with CNN Philippines, Marlon Martin, chief of the Save the Ifugao Terraces Movement and founder of the Ifugao Heritage School, further expounded on it by simply defining it as claiming and disrespecting a culture different from one’s own, while being unaware of its it ethnic and historical context.

The Philippines is composed of numerous tribes and different religions, such as the Ifugao tribes, who boost their economy by making clothes, blankets, and other textile products using the patterns they create from weaving. For practicing muslims, hijabs are essential to Islam while Kalinga tattoos are badges of honor given to those who have fought and protected their people. With these items being out in plain sight, the mistake of using them for personal use is just around the corner; one could be casually wearing clothing from the Mt. Province meant for the dead, textiles which Cordillerans use for rituals and festivities could accidentally be regarded as table covers by consumers, while some teenagers could be sporting an ethnic tattoo with symbols they don’t even understand. Unfortunately, these trademarks of a minority culture are also victims of cultural appropriation.

Fashion in the wrong

From outfits to hairstyles, fashion and merchandising always craves something unique; the usual denim jacket looks better with a few ethnic patterns, a hairstyle seems more stylish with a makeshift hijab, and a tattoo with an ethnic design certainly adds a ‘cool’ factor.

Despite the cultural background of the minorities’ traditional pieces, there has been a recurrence of these items being used for commercial gain. During their 2012 fashion show, women’s lifestyle company Victoria’s Secret received backlash for having their models take the runway while sporting Native American props with lingerie, while Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection was called out for designing models’ hair with dreadlocks, a trademark of African-American culture that was used as a symbol for the Rastafari religion.

What one chooses to wear is an expression of their identity; be it through smart casual attires or maximalist outfits, fashion shows a meaningful trademark of one’s personality. The same goes for minorities who have their own garments that express a significant meaning to their cultural identity. The glaring difference is that these minorities have a history of being victims of social injustices, poverty, or microaggression, and have used their clothes and accessories to emphasize their unity and strength in the face of the hardships they have gone through.

The controversy of cultural appropriation was recently magnified in April 2018 when an article published by print and digital newspaper Philippine Star on local fashion brand Filip+Inna’s summer collection featured a model wearing a bikini partnered with a traditional blouse from the Tagakaolo tribe of the Municipality of Malungon in Sarangani. This received negative reactions from the locals who regard the tribe as one of the municipality’s founders and as a result, Mayor Tessa Constantino posted her sentiments about the matter on Facebook.

“We are very proud of our ethnic origins as a people and we value our cultural heritage that in all the undertakings of our local government, we see to it that our tribes are not offended and neglected,” Constantino stated. The blouse was from the Tagakaolo Tribal Museum and was used by the fashion brand without consulting the locals. It was merely marketed as a fashion statement, disregarding its ethnic significance to the Tagakaolo tribe and locals of Malungon.

Wearing indigenous attires as a fashion statement or a mere decoration is the same as pretending to be part of a race or culture completely unaffiliated with one’s own. One should not simply sport ethnic tattoos and already act like they themselves have gone to the wars the natives have gone through. It’s similar to stealing from their beliefs and traditions, and disregarding their given purposes. By using a people’s culture without succinct knowledge beforehand, it creates a pseudo-understanding a person has about the said culture, which forges an idea that these items can be used for one’s own personal gain while also belittling the history and ethnic identity of the minority groups.

With all these common ethnic faux paus, is the current fashion scene suggesting that culture can be sacrificed for its sake? Short answer is no; and it’s time to do something about it.

Change by learning

Some may say cultural appropriation can easily be excused as drawing inspiration from these Filipino artefacts. However, there’s a fine line between the two, separated by upholding traditional heritage. When the usage of these artefacts is to preserve art and history, the culture is promoted and the minority’s legacy lives on. Through educational purposes, like school festivities or dedicated museums, Filipinos can learn to respect the traditional customs and, consequently, act on supporting it.

Buying their products for the culture’s promotion, and not for aesthetic purposes, helps their people thrive by having their products appreciated by the public with its intended function. By collaborating with the locals through development projects,  this can further enhance and spread awareness to their craft.

What seems to be mere prints on a carpet or abstract shapes on a bag are threaded by a rigorous and meticulous process made specifically by that culture. From the blood, sweat, and tears that originated these culture’s products, there’s no doubt how the simple act of respect and caution is well-deserved. Studying about the various cultures and understanding the hard work behind each cultural piece is one easy step to avoid cultural appropriation that leads to a more well-informed and just society.

Filipinos, as an international minority, still have the tendency to disrespect their own national minorities, groups, and tribes who exemplify and contribute to the Filipino legacy, by reducing their artefacts to commercial trends. However, once properly researched, anyone can be the bridge between the traditional and the modern, and reinvigorate the art of indigenous cultures for what they are truly meant to be—a symbol of the people’s identity.

This article was originally published in The Benildean Issue 13.

#think piece

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Find out all about magnificence to operate with the valuable world of manner

A simple black blazer is often a excellent addition to any wardrobe. You can use it to dress up nearly any outfit. Then, you are able to take out it for those who modification to the extra informal venue. The colour will also match pretty much everything as part of your closet, from jeans to small business relaxed blouses and slacks.

Dedicate almost all your style finances over the essentials. Put money into parts that function perfectly jointly and will rarely head out of fashion. A elementary black pencil skirt can be worn for a lot of ages and be up to date each calendar year having a leading or jacket that goes combined with the style belonging to the working day.

If you've got pretty dry pores and skin, chances are you'll would like to use moisturizer before utilising your preferred scented merchandise. Doing this can help the cologne or fragrance continue to be lengthier on your overall body. It would do the job greatest if you happen to use an unscented moisturizer, and so the smells never compete or create a whole new, sudden scent.

Copy the locate a lot less. If you happen to see a look you're keen on in a high-end manner journal or location your preferred superstar sporting a look to die for, really don't immediately suppose that it's out of your funds. You'll be able to often design a truly similar find an entire ton much less if you're prepared to shop about. 

When you are made use of to dressing down however you wish to spruce up your type, try out buying some sparkly add-ons. These is likely to make your outfit look brighter and you simply is not going to really need to alter your complete fashion. You may make a plain outfit healthy for almost any situation by switching the type of extras.

Decide upon goods to add to your wardrobe that make perception for ones life-style. In the event you expend almost all of your time in jeans, then purchase the ideal trying and best-fitting  jeans that you simply can manage. The cash you commit on an product for your wardrobe that you simply wear on a regular basis is often a very good investment decision.

When picking a gown, decide on an individual that features a vertical (quite than horizontal) pattern. This can make you seem a bit longer somewhat than broader, providing the illusion that you'll be slimmer than you actually are. Also, search out a bit that has an empire midsection, as it may make it seem like you've got a smaller sized waistline.

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Learn manner publications no less than as soon as per month.  If you'd like to remain as much as date on what on earth is scorching and what is not you'll want to do your investigate.  Vogue publications will keep you knowledgeable by means of each and every time and as developments build.  In case you think that you ate still lacking around are television exhibits dedicated to vogue in the process.

Should you be starting to go grey, test employing a vegetable dye. Given that it will be only a few strands which can be causing anxiousness, this merchandise will need to do the trick. It turns the gray a shade that may be a tad lighter compared to the relaxation of your respective hair. Working with vegetable dye will make it appear as though you may have nice, new highlights and can then fade out about about a few months.

In the present business earth, it is actually crucial that fellas be perfectly dressed. For this reason, it is important to store for top notch drawer apparel when choosing garments to your next interview. To start your quest, leaf through present day business enterprise magazines to ensure your wardrobe matches the best executives. Seek out no matter whether men are sporting cuffed pants or hemmed pants, ties with styles or good ties as well as what sort of shoe is currently in fashion.

A good trend suggestion would be to decide on your outfits for your day influenced by color.  You do not need to step outside using your shirt and shorts clashing given that they're complimentary colours.  Experiment with unique color mixtures and find out which colors you prefer and which shade mixtures you don't like so much.

Usually do not use sponges to apply your liquid and product based mostly foundations and blushes. You certainly will reduce products within the sponge anytime you need to do. In addition, the sponge will become a breeding floor for germs. In its place, use thoroughly clean fingertips for application, switching fingers or cleaning them amongst completely different goods or colors.

You can actually gown up jeans by pairing them which has a shirt that is much more dressy together with a pair of heels, but this can be only acceptable if you should strategy on wearing black denims. Coloured denims are merely a very good thought if you're likely to get a appearance that is additional casual. 

Clumps of make-up aren't a lovely find female. Believe it or not, new polls taken by gentlemen realize that the much less makeups, the higher. This does not suggest that you've got to prevent make-up altogether; aim to use heat tones and put on only one layer of mascara and eyeliner.

Skinny denims are what's in style now. These types of jeans are comfortable roughly all zones within your physique, from you waist and rear conclude, many of the way right down to your ankles. The most effective section of these jeans is always that they look fantastic with really a great deal any pair of shoes!

A great fashion idea could be to learn about ways to produce your own feeling of style.  You don't need to only mimic someone else and copy their type.  Believe of what's critical to you these as ease and comfort or aptitude, and then little by little put together on that so that your vogue feeling is exclusive to you.

When you discover your nail polish is now also thick, really do not despair. Look at adding just a few drops of acetone dependent polish remover in to the bottle. Shake, and test the consistency. Proceed to do this until such time as it can be useable again. You might prolong the usage of your polish, and preserve hard earned cash while in the process.

Build up your wardrobe close to important staples which you can mix and match very easily. Some key items contain slightly black dress, a fitted jacket and matching skirt, a tailor-made pair of slacks in the neutral color and a pair of dark, fitted trouser denims. These things normally takes your essentially any where paired with all the perfect very best and/or components.

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New Post has been published on Health Womens

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Useful Guidance For Successfully Winning The War Against Eczema

Eczema is a harrowing condition that affects many people. This condition causes the skin to be irritated, dryness and itchiness of the skin. You should start searching for relief as soon as possible if you have eczema.The following article has some good advice can assist you with your condition.

You may not link clothing and eczema when you think about the subject. This is rather important to your comfort, however. Choose clothing that is loose-fitting and is made of cotton. Keep away from clothing made of anything coarse. Before you wear any new garment, wash it using a mild detergent. Then rinse it twice to get out all the soap.

TIP! When thinking of eczema, most people don’t consider their clothing. However, your comfort will be determined by the clothing that you wear.

Don’t take a shower that’s too many hot when you have an eczema issue. Your daily showers should be short and short. Gently cleanse your skin with a moisturizing skin cleanser rather than soap.

You should put on clothes that fit loosely and which are made of cotton or something similar. Avoid coarse materials like wool. Wash your clothing in detergents that are mild, and rinse them well before wearing it.

Don’t scratch. Eczema can be extremely itchy, but you have to avoid scratching. The more you actually scratch, however, will cause you to want to scratch that much more. This can also damage your skin, and it may even trigger infection. Constant use of moisturizer and cold compresses will help when your symptoms flair up.

TIP! Try not to scratch if you can. Eczema frequently causes discomfort.

Avoid getting worked up with stress as much as possible. Stress tends to make eczema flare up occur. If you have a lot of stress going on in your life you should try to exercise, try to relieve some of that through meditation, such as exercise and meditation. This can help you keep your eczema outbreaks to a minimum.

This ingredient can cause issues for people suffering from eczema. You should always check the ingredient list even though the product is listed as PABA-free. You can also talk to a doctor about prescribed sunscreen.

Find a sunscreen that doesn’t include PABA. PABA is known for causing skins issues and eczema flare-ups. You should always take your time to look at the ingredients carefully to see if it’s PABA-free. You can also talk to a doctor about some prescription sunscreen if you have problems finding one.

TIP! When you’re picking out a sunscreen you should get something that says it’s PABA-free. This ingredient is recognized as one that can create problems for people suffering from eczema.

Moisturize as often as possible. Moisturizers are of great help quite a bit when it comes to controlling eczema. The right time to use moisturizers is immediately after showering or bathing. You should use moisturizers that are chemical additives.These things can be irritating to the skin. Thicker ointments and creams are ideal.

Wear clothes that won’t irritate or scratch your skin. There are certain fabrics that if worn can actually cause eczema to breakout more regularly. Cotton is the best choice if you suffer from eczema. You should also wash any new clothes before wearing them.

Use moisturizer often. Moisturizers can help quite a bit when you’re dealing with something like eczema. The ideal time to apply a moisturizer is right after you take a bath. Be sure your moisturizer doesn’t have an chemicals or additives. This irritants can cause flare-ups. Thicker products such as ointments and creams are ideal.

TIP! If you have eczema, moisturize your skin frequently. Moisturizers can control eczema.

Make sure you keep the temperature in your room is not too hot or cold. Extreme temperatures may cause flare ups. The humidifier will keep your skin from becoming too dry.

Keep nails tidy and tidy. This can make your rash worse, especially if long nails break the skin. Make sure you clean underneath your nails.

Moisturize properly as often as possible if you are an eczema sufferer. Use this to really get control of those flare-ups. Moisturize frequently, particularly following a shower of bath. Try to use plain and unscented moisturizers rather than products that have additives and chemicals in them.

TIP! Moisturize your skin if you have eczema. This is a great way to manage your flare-ups.

Choose ointments the next time you are looking for a moisturizer.They are usually better than other products for treating eczema because they seal in plenty of moisture using a protective seal. Creams or lotions aren’t going to do this. This is why ointments are considerably better in ares that has open skin.

Learn what triggers for your eczema.It may be the detergent, detergent or perfume that causes an outbreak, or the touch of a certain fabric may be to blame. Stress and excessive perspiration can also cause flareups. Once you know what your triggers are, stay away from them the best you can.

Keep the temperature of your home as comfortable as possible if you have eczema. Extreme temperatures can really irritate your skin and cause your symptoms to flare up. Use your air condition when it’s warm, and use your humidifier when it is cold. The humidifier will allow your skin not to dry out too much.

TIP! You have to find a comfortable temperature for the home that doesn’t upset your skin. If it is too hot or too cold, then your eczema will flare-up.

Atopic dermatitis is known as a very common form of eczema that is the most common. Harvard Medical School’s research suggests that texts have helped patients that are 14 or older with their eczema. It helps sticking to a treatment and showed less eczema existed after six weeks. Most patients decided to continue receiving these helpful messages.

Be cognizant of what you’re wearing.The clothing on your skin can be a trigger for eczema. Try to stick to cotton or cotton blends. Other fabrics are known to irritate your skin. You also want to wash your clothes are cleaned. Avoid using things like fabric softeners and harsh laundry detergents.

Dry, itchy skin is one of the hallmarks of eczema. Moisturizers can help make dryness and itching less severe. Regardless of what you may have heard, moisturizers do not keep the skin hydrated. Actually, if you use moisturizers a lot, it will keep in the natural moisture and body oils you have. By doing this, moisturizers prevent the drying and cracking of skin.

TIP! Eczema typically results in itchy, dry skin. Moisturizers can help make dryness and itching less severe.

Keep your skin moisturized to prevent eczema flare-ups. Moisturized skin stays flexible and flexible is not as likely to crack. Use an unscented moisturizers or petroleum jelly. Chemicals and fragrances in some moisturizers have can make your eczema worse rather than soothing it.

While there isn’t a cure for eczema, effective treatments are out there. Dishpan hands is basically eczema on the hands that can make skin to be dry and cracked. You need to wear rubber gloves if you are washing dishes. When the dishes are done, use moisturizer.

When selecting a moisturizer look for ointments. They can help soothe eczema because they make a protective layer. Creams and lotions don’t do this. Ointments are much more helpful when dealing with cracked skin.

TIP! Use ointments when using moisturizers. They add a protecting layer to your skin, locking in moisture.

Consider placing a humidifier in your home to help manage your eczema. Dry air may cause dry skin which in turn causes eczema. A humidifier puts moisture in the air which makes it less likely for your skin won’t get too dry and it makes it to where eczema is not as likely to flare up.

Use moisturizer after a shower. It is important to lock moisture to penetrate the skin. Showering gets the pores and your skin is left damp. Your body will retain moisture for about three minutes after finishing your shower. This time is when moisturizer should be added to better moisturize your problem areas.

Some things trigger symptoms of eczema, so it’s helpful to pinpoint what those triggers are. It might be a particular type of soap, perfume or fabric that causes you to have a flare. Other possibilities are sweat and stress. Find out your triggers and take steps to avoid them.

TIP! Watch your body and figure out what triggers your eczema. It might be a certain fabric, soap, a laundry detergent, or something else entirely.

Don’t wear clothing that are uncomfortable or too tight. Tight clothing can irritate skin and even damage it. This can cause more eczema to flare up. So you want clothing that doesn’t rub your skin. This will reduce the sweat that your skin isn’t as sweaty.

Eczema appears on people of all different age groups, but it specifically is very common in children. If you or your child is affected by eczema, you need to learn how to get relief quickly. Put all of these tips to use as soon as you have the opportunity.

Research shows that using text reminders for eczema are helpful. Atopic dermatitis is the most common form of eczema. Harvard Medical School research has shown that in patients aged 14 and up had great success with text messaging. Not only did it help these patients stick to their treatment plan, at the end of 6 weeks they also had less eczema. Many wished the program could continue.

#eczema flare #Eczema

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The right Prom Dress

An ideal Prom Dress yoga pants Want the prom dress that's heading to turn our head when you walk in to the space? Want a prom dress that may be different through everyone else's prom costume? Well you can get the perfect prom dress. Just what colours are in type for prom dresses? Intended for the prom in 2007 you will see several new colors you have got not observed in fashion regarding a while like navy and burgundy gold, raspberry, purple orange, black and also white, and the entertaining prom colors just like turquoise, lime and fuchsia. Females always love crimson and also this year for the prom you will see the ideal purple gowns. Sup�rieur orange is making a termes conseill�s big time for 2007--a positive winner. Royal azure is a real hot color this kind of year. Silver and gold will end up being important and the brand new metallic lam� fabrics will show you off to the reduce. What sort of style should My spouse and i focus on if I desire to look sexy during my prom dress? Sexy prom dresses for 2007 are everywhere. Want to know what models are very hot? Glad anyone asked. I'll tell you. Ruffles (the french look), gently drapes, sections, high slits, wide lace top; hi-low hemlines and mermaid silhouettes are the sexy faves for this year. These people are moving back into the heart of a lot of teenagers for the prom. You'll see a lot of captivating ball gowns. Your in order to like a princess. women's faux fur coats Which prom dress should My partner and i hunt for if I'm not this tall? Many young ladies that normally are not so high (like me) are planning toward fitted silhouettes as well as flirty, little limited clothes. These prom garments arrive in an array regarding fun hues. Remember, an individual got to use what you got! Flaunt all your current materials! Helpful tips to finding the perfect prom dress: Now keep within mind, almost any dress could look great on the hanger but remember you have got to purchase a style in addition to look that goes using your height, body shape, hair as well as skin coloring. Don't buy into the belief which there are a confined amount of colors that job for you; rather, end up being your own best fashion designer as well as hold upward dresses to your encounter to see which ones bring out your skin hues, eyes and locks often the best. Warm colors like fire engine red in addition to coral look best upon brunettes with darker color; cool pastels work for blonde girls. But there are generally a myriad of shades -- metallic gold and silver incorporated -- in which work for all colorings. If you're not confident what type of prom dress style to get with for your prom lug a friend with a store and get a subsequent viewpoint while trying in a lot of colors to see which ones enhance your own look best. Learn to be able to accept your body, way too. If you tend to be not comfortable in curve-hugging garments due to the fact of too much jiggle, and then try a human body slimmer underneath for considerably more control. Everyone has no less than one great asset, even in the event it's something as very simple as thicker hair, whitened teeth or good hip and legs. You don't have to do anything also opulent to show off your current best feature, just create sure that your seem shows it off and enhances it. If your current best feature is excellent skin, the very last thing you'd wish to do is cover every inch of the item using clothing. Dressing intended for your greatest feature is definitely less about outfitting for size or grow older as well as more about making often the good what you possess to work with. One important thing to remember is if you are looking for you to buy a prom dress focus on a bling bling dress or bling bling accessories not both. Should you have both it would likely be to overwhelming to help the naked eye then one will take away by the other. The theory in this article is to make sometimes clothes or the accessories the focus, certainly not the two. For example, a solidit� strapless gown with not any adornment could carry a new big diamond bracelet as well as ring or a couple of chandelier earrings. Strong color dresses and neutrals are a great background to get colorful jewels. With the other hand, the harder ruffles, tiers and beading a dress has, the actual less complicated the accessories should be. It will not mean you have to go uncovered but you need to be able to use self-control and select smaller parts. The difficulty to dressing for exclusive occasions such as homecoming or perhaps the prom is that will young women appearance incorrect if they dress a comparative age: in froufrou dress, fresh women/girls look ready regarding prom. Look at magazines web sites and find out precisely in style. You avoid when you go looking like mom just run over by any reindeer! Different styles to bear in mind: Movie Star Style Would like to look like a movie legend? Show your sense of fashion with a designer-inspired gown: quite a few labels create their own own jazzed-up versions associated with celebrity-chic outfits. Dresses through Jovani, Rome, Clarisse, Mori Lee, as well as Niteline, are famous for making red-carpet looks at an reasonably priced price. Critical red carpeting looks this coming year include one-shoulder Grecian dress and disposition waist clothes. Elegance In the event the movie star prom dress isn't for a person and then tone down the actual look in addition to choose the cool cocktail gown appear. Whether you favour aristocratic circle skirts as well as luxurious, trimmer hems, this kind of attire will come in convenient with regard to other occasions Little princess Appearance Elegant trains bring serious punch. Go with regard to a small adorn (called a duster) or perhaps full-on train (called chapel) -- either way, your leave leaves a definite prolonged effect. Covering Dresses The movie celebrity favorite, addressing dresses are as relaxed as they are stunning. Keep in mind which with a simple costume like this, accessories are generally a should! From pearls to gemstones to any mix of pendants, anything goes. Bling bling all the way! The Wow Look Let the little Marilyn Monroe come out with a mega feminine, hip-hugging gown. Select dresses created using delicate fabrics, like satin or silk, that curtains well and creates turns. To keep with the actual retro sculpt, finish having a clutch wallet and also peep-toe pumps. Girly Girl Skirts Stemmed from summer's plain skirt rage, tiered skirts are having any serious termes conseill�s. This trend can go two incredibly unique routes: the delicate ballroom skirt or the breezy "plain dress". Black is definitely Back If you approach on wearing your prom dress once again, the little black dress can be a typical. Choose a sleek line dress, flirty shift, or maybe take your look by Audrey Hepburn with a new chic prom dress. Is actually high however Boy Is It Low. Final year's asymmetrical hem continues to be substituted by the "high-low" outfit. The hem, which is usually limited in the front and extended in often the back, is so special and adorable; you'll possess almost all eyes on you! It's a great choice because it's small sufficient to dance within yet long enough to search dressy. Strapless Baby Strapless prom dresses have become a prom staple to get great reason. These are similar parts sassy and stylish. They flatter any physique. Along with they don't require a new diamond necklace. Keep your eyes out for dresses with beautiful beading and exquisite embroidery around the bust-a big design this yr. Homecoming Queen The best Cinderella-at-the-ball dress and accessories. Any bouffant skirt and otherwise simple top combo is definitely for the homecoming a queen at style. These robes require minimal accessories simply because they're so show halting. But make sure you actually get home ahead of night. Yeah right!