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#before strolling over to the rodin museum
seasia2k18 · 2 years
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Paris - Day 3
June 5, 2022
By complete chance we happened to be in Paris during the first Sunday of the month, which means free admission to many of their museums! Normally this would also bring additional crowds, but with COVID precautions there was still limited capacity at most museums, leading to a fantastic free and minimally crowded experience!
We started off at musee de l’orangerie, home of monet’s water lilies.
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We then walked over to Angelina, which is famous for their pastries and hot chocolate. The hot chocolate is so thick it’s pretty much just melted chocolate, and they give you whipped cream to cut to the intensity. We also had paris brest, which was great, but not as good as Frenchway’s in Winnipeg
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After that we had reserved time slots at the Pompidou, which we had never been to before!
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We then strolled through the Jewish quarter, with plans to go to L’as du falafel.  Unfortunately they had a surprise closure on that day, so we went across the street to their rival falafel maker mi-va-mi which we both agreed was no where near as good.
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We had some extra time in the afternoon, and although we hadn’t booked tickets we tried to go to musee rodin to see their sculpture garden. Once we got there we discovered that they were one of the few museums that doesn’t provide free entry on the first sunday of the month, so we turned around and walked to galeries lafayette haussmann instead. There we saw their famed glass roof, and made our way up to the top floor for a beautiful view of Paris!
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blueiskewl · 3 years
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Very Rare Van Gogh Painting 'Street Scene in Montmartre' Sells for $15.4 Million
One of the few paintings by Vincent Van Gogh still in private hands, "Street Scene in Montmartre", was sold for over 13 million euros Thursday at auction after going on public display for the first time this week, Sotheby's said.
The painting -- which emerged after a century spent in the same collection and has not been exhibited in public since it was painted in 1887 -- fetched 13.091 million euros ($15.414 million), Sotheby's said.
Reaching well above the estimate of 5-8 million euros, Sotheby's said the sale price was a record for the artist in France.
The sale of the painting was the highlight of an auction of 33 works from masters including Degas, Magritte, Modigliani, Klee, Rodin and his muse Camille Claudel sold in an auction live-streamed by Sotheby's in Paris.
The painting was reoffered at the end of the sale in Paris after the auction house scrapped its initial sale earlier in the afternoon -- where it fetched a slightly higher sale price -- due to problems with online bidding.
Other highlights included the sale of a recently restituted work by Camille Pissarro, "La Recolte des pois", which fetched 3.382 million euros. It had been originally commissioned by Van Gogh's brother, Theo.
Francis Picabia's "La Corrida" meanwhile fetched 3.152 million euros.
The 1887 work by the Dutch post-Impressionist master, one of more than 200 paintings he produced during two years spent in Paris, portrays one of the windmills that dotted Montmartre when it was still just a village on the northern outskirts of the capital.
A couple stroll and two children play in front of a wooden fence and leafless trees depicted in the characteristic tan and brown tones of his "Dutch palette", punctuated by a bright red flag blowing above the mill.
The period marked a turning point in Van Gogh's career as he began exploring expressionist techniques and new uses of colour in the final years of his life, before his suicide in 1890 at the age of 37.
It is not considered one of his best works.
The last Van Gogh sold at a public auction, "Labourer in a Field" from 1889, went for $81 million at a New York sale in 2017.
Specialists knew of the work but it was only catalogued as a black-and-white photograph and was acquired by a French family around 1920.
It had been placed on public display for the very first time this week since it was painted 135 years ago.
"Paintings from the Montmartre series are rare: It's very likely to garner a lot of interest from private buyers, the major Van Gogh collectors all around the world, and probably from institutions as well," Aurelie Vandevoorde, Sotheby's head of Impressionist and modern art in Paris, told AFP ahead of the sale.
The identity of the buyer has not been divulged.
Claudia Mercier, an auctioneer at the Mirabaud Mercier auction house that was hired by the painting's owners, said it had been examined by the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam, "which has shown serious interest in the work".
By Agence France-Presse.
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bumblingtravels · 6 years
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3. Paris
There and Back Again… an Interrailing Story
8 cities, 6 countries, 4 weeks, 2 rainbows, 1 camera
PART ONE — Paris
May 29th, 2018
Well… what a day. The summary of said day is definitely: rain, bombs, thinking, rain. Really that about sums it up, don’t know if I even have to write this entry, but I suppose it gives me something to do while I wait for the pasta to boil. So here we go… section one: rain.
After waking up to our alarms and promptly deciding ‘fuck it Morpheus take me’, we managed to leave the apartment at a reasonable time, definitely compared with the 16:00s of Edinburgh, though thats another story for another time. In juxtaposed dresses and corresponding white cardigans we left the apartment and immediately opened our umbrellas - seems last nights thunderstorm wasn’t done with us yet. Managing to buy the right RER train ticket this time, we made our way to Saint Michel’s Notre Dame.
We emerged from the underground towards the surface of Paris for our first day in the City of Love, and of course… because life hates me like that, it was pissing it down. We managed to snap a few snaps of Notre Dame and the Seine River before, belly rumblings reminded us that humans tend to need to eat. Our noble quest for sustenance took us down quaint little market streets, boasting a never ending supply of restaurants; a surprise number of which were Greek but none a simply good old-fashioned french bakery.
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Continuing on our quest (I’m warning you it’s about the length of the second Lord of the Rings movie… extended edition), we were quickly put on alert by thresher amount of police riot vans and general police presence. Shrugging it off as a potential quirk - you know, Paris: bakeries, Mona Lisa, frog legs, Eiffel Tower and police vans - we continued in the direction of ‘that-a-way’. As with Egg Man yesterday, a spotting of a Deliveroo driver kicked our student instincts into gear; and after a quick search (on the ready installed app) we headed in the direction of Smith’s bakery, but not before a quick stroll through a park with bicycles strategically placed to create the best aesthetic.
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Smith’s bakery itself was an adorable slice of flour heaven and we came out bearing one cheese and ham toastie, one baguette sandwich and two eclairs (chocolate and caramel for precise recollection). Deciding it best to find a nice park somewhere and eat our breakfast-cum-lunch, we headed in the direction of Luxembourg gardens.
Now, here’s the thing. Macron? Apparently not a nice guy. Remember that police presence I was talking about? Yeah, apparently ‘bad president + police riot vans = protest’. Our first view of Luxembourg was through the clouded view of tear gas and smoke bombs interspersed with hi-vis vests of police and to the cadence of protest. Not exactly a situation ripe for two young girls from Cheshire. we aimed to skirt around the protest - our travel insurance doesn’t cover political uprising I don’t think, although I always did fancy myself an Enjolras. As we got closer the smoke bomb warning *bangs* caused us to back track and head away. No harm, no foul as we found a cute little bench to eat our Smith’s bakery delicacies.
Side-note: those eclairs where amazing and Tescos seriously needs to step up its eclair game.
We plotted a route to the Museum D’Orsay and detoured quickly though a cute photography market and exhibition. Along the way, we purchased our snow globe and shot glass collectibles before continuing ‘on to Art’. This particular museum’s lines were ridiculously long and so, deciding that life is too short we instead plotted a course for one of my main picks: Rodin’s Museum.
Rodin’s museum ended up being a sculpture garden and all it took was a trip to the toilet to bring the sun back in full force (rip Meg’s shoulders). Getting in for free (all EU students) was a lovely bonus that you Brits will regret after Brexit. First stopping the aptly named sculptor garden: The Thinker.
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Created by Rodin, The Thinker is a mighty big old geezer sitting on a rock in his birthday suit having a good old think in a pose recreated by me every time I have a shit. This work of art was the first test to the previously mocked selfie stick to varying degrees of success. Regardless of our white-girl selfie skills, the sculpture itself is breathtaking and the first thing on this trip to be ticked off the bucket list. After a quick snap of our rainbows, and several ‘thinking’ puns later, we continued on our way. 
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The whole gardens are beautiful: sculptures scattered around, a beautiful fountain and capped by the Thinker and the Gates of Hell on either side. The Gates of Hell being another highlight for me and a breathtaking piece of art.
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Leaving the sculptures, Hades’ world and thinking puns behind, we spotted the Eiffel Tower and decided ‘yep’. A quick detour saw us walking past the Grand Plais and the snazziest bride you have ever seen.
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 We also undertook a pilgrimage of sorts for Meg as we visited The Flame of Liberty, erected in honour of Princess Diana above the tunnel where she died.
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Tourist worthy pictures were taken on the bridge opposite the Eiffel Tower (complete with our bee rainbows pictures of course), before we ventured over to Paris’ crowning jewel. Countless lyrics have been waxed poetical and thousands of yarns spun about this iconic sight so I’ll keep my descriptors short and silly say my first thought: ‘didn’t realise it was brown’.
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A quick bench stop outside the tower saw us realising it was 7pm and we should probably start hustling. After waiting for 30minutes at a public restroom, that cleaned itself after every use - a good idea but not exactly economical or environmental - we went to one train station to find it closed so ventured to the next. After a quick stop to get some postcards - 10 for €2 don’t mind if I do - we got on our double decker metro and headed home. A shower each and two heaped bowls of pesto pasta saw us flopped down like beached seals. So here we are 22,604 steps and 14.4km later, bone-tried and in need of a nap. I’ve rambled on and on and it’s time to embrace Morpheus so I shall wish you goodnight.
— Mira Sophia
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emilysn2019-blog · 5 years
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Our 2-day Paris, France itinerary takes you to the most popular things to do in the City of Light, and provides an enjoyable and efficient walking tour through most of the iconic districts. Included are the best art museums, historical monuments, and a few places with great views of Paris.
Note that it’s physically impossible to see all of Paris’ highlights in two days. Even if you literally walk into each of the museums on this list and immediately walk out to “check them off” (not a recommended strategy, for what it’s worth). However, we really try–and these are two morning until nighttime days in Paris that should leave you exhausted but satisfied, having spent the perfect two days in Paris.
If you’re still planning your vacation to France, we’d recommend allocating more time in Paris. For first-time visitors, we would recommend at least 4 days in the city, and ideally 5 days. Even with two full days, this perfect 2-day Paris itinerary is confined to a relatively condensed area of Paris, and doesn’t venture much outside of that, save for Montmartre.
More time is definitely necessary if you also want to visit Versailles, Disneyland Paris, or make a day-trip farther outside the city. We will have 3-day to week-long itineraries very soon, we’re just starting with a shorter itinerary because it’s easy to build these out.
We’d also highly recommend purchasing the 2-day Paris Museum Pass, as you will more than break even using it for this itinerary. You can read our Paris Museum Pass: Is It Worth It? post for more info, but the answer to that question is yes if you’re following our 2-day Paris touring plan here–and that’s true even if you have to skip a couple steps.
The order of these two days can be switched as necessary; we’ve ordered them this way simply because there’s more walking on the first day that will familiarize you with the city, and because it’s the more ‘intense’ day that’ll require fresh legs.
Day 1
Sainte-Chapelle – With Notre-Dame Cathedral likely closed for between 3 and 5 years (our bet is that it reopens in time for the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics), that won’t be an option for any near-term trips to France. The good news is that the lesser-known Sainte-Chapelle is arguably the more awe-inspiring experience, and is located mere steps from Notre Dame.
We suspect this is going to be a pretty common itinerary pivot going forward, and the smaller Sainte-Chapelle is simply not equipped for an influx of crowds. Even previously, we recommended arriving at Sainte-Chapelle right when it opened or shortly before closing, and we’ll double-down on that recommendation now.
Other Museum Pass Options – During your half-hour walk from Sainte-Chapelle to the Rodin Museum (you could take the RER or Metro to cut some time off that, but it’s a lovely walk), there are a few Museum Pass eligible spots you might consider visiting quickly.
Chief among these are Conciergerie and Musée Delacroix, both of which can be pretty quick visits. Of the two, we’d more highly recommend Conciergerie, which was formerly a prison, presently a law court, and is also part of the former royal palace. It’s a pretty and unique space, with fascinating history that can be experienced in relatively short order (if you want).
On the other hand, Musée Delacroix is interesting because it’s the artist’s former apartment and studio, but the exhibit area is very small. It’s not something we’d seek out, but you’ll walk literally right past it, and it’s an easy and interesting way to spend 30 minutes.
Rodin Museum – While we wouldn’t rank Musée Rodin among our top 5 museums in Paris, that’s largely a matter of personal preference; the sculptures are beautiful, but they’re not so much our cup of tea. Nevertheless, the Rodin Museum is highly regarded and beloved by visitors…and also, it’s included in the Paris Museum Pass and you’ll walk right past it.
Our full post about the Rodin Museum offers a variety of info and tips, but the big recommendation is to do the outdoor areas first. This is especially true on a nice autumn or spring day, when the weather makes it more enjoyable to be outdoors. We far preferred these green spaces, and as noted above, there are a number of exquisite works on display outside.
Army Museum – This name may not exactly rouse enthusiasm or curiosity, but this is one of the best museums in Paris. Le Musée de l’Armée offers a fascinating collection of all things war related, and recounts the tumultuous military history of France.
With over 500,000 military artifacts and basically the framework for an entire French History 101 course laid out on placards in the galleries, you could easily spend an entire day here. Our first visit, we ended up spending over 4 hours here and still barely scratching the surface.
Even if have even a passing curiosity about Napoleon, the French Revolution, France’s involvement in the World Wars, or literally any historical events that have shaped contemporary France, the Army Museum is a must-visit. Budget 2 hours here, focus on a specific area or topic, and try not to overshoot.
Petit Palais – Located directly across the street from Grand Palais, we recommend Petit Palais since admission to the permanent collections is free, and getting inside the building is the main goal here. Both were built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition and are fascinating as much for their art as their architecture.
There are some nice pieces in the permanent collections, but what we love about the Petit Palais is its Beaux-Arts architecture, triple arcade, and domed roof. It has a light and airy environment that’s a departure from other art museums in Paris. (It’s an especially nice change of pace after the decidedly dark Army Museum.)
Tuileries Garden – This public garden between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde is popular with tourists and locals alike, probably skewing a bit more towards the latter.
We don’t consider Jardin des Tuileries a “destination” point of interest, but there’s lovely horticulture, views of the adjacent icons, and places to sit. Plus, you’ll stroll right through it en route to your next stop on the itinerary.
Palais Garnier – The opulent Paris Opera House is one of our favorite places in the city. Featuring a medley of architectural styles, the overarching theme of Palais Garnier is lavishness. It’s an architectural gem, and arguably the most extravagant building in a city renowned for its grandiosity.
It’s an odd comparison, but we also view Palais Garnier as a way to experience a slice of Versailles if you’re not making the half-day trip out there. They’re two totally different things, but the impression on visitors is very similar. Note that the Palais Garnier does not accept the Paris Museum Pass and sometimes has inexplicable closures, so check the online schedule day-of before you visit.
Galeries Lafayette Paris – At Christmas, this luxury shopping mall is a must-visit. During the holidays, the beautiful rotunda is adorned with a giant Swarovski Christmas tree that’s suspended in mid-air. The design of the tree changes yearly, with it looking like the above photo a couple of years ago. All other times of year, it’s a lovely mall, but you may feel uncomfortable there.
After Galeries Lafayette, you might consider walking to the Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette Metro Station and taking that to the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre stop. It’s about a 5 minute ride versus a 20 minute walk.
Louvre – In an ideal world, you’re doing this day of the itinerary on an evening when the Louvre is open late. At present, this is Wednesday and Friday, when it’s open until 10 p.m. (Shuffle these two days to achieve that, if necessary.) If not, you’ll very likely have to cut out a stop or two to arrive at the Louvre with enough time to experience a few of its exhibits before it closes at 6 p.m. (on other nights).
Don’t budget more than 3 hours on the Louvre, and don’t go in with any agenda whatsoever. The Mona Lisa is just as disappointing in person as everyone says, and I can’t think of a single exhibit in the museum–even the famed ones–that are actual must-sees. Rather, the highlight of the Louvre is the museum itself, and simply being there. The presentation is phenomenal, so soak that and the museum’s decadent design and architecture up, rather than racing from forgettable exhibit to forgettable exhibit.
Arc de Triomphe – Even if you finish up at the Louvre close to 10 p.m., there’s still time to hop aboard the Metro at Palais Royal Musée du Louvre Station and take the Line 1 to Charles de Gaulle – Étoile and walk to the Arc de Triomphe, which is open until 11 p.m. nightly.
Paris is aglow with color and lights during the evenings, and the best way to see this is from the Arc de Triomphe. This is actually our favorite view of the Paris skyline, as it offers the ideal elevation and the view includes the Eiffel Tower, which, for obvious reasons, cannot be attained when you’re in the Eiffel Tower.
Day 2
Morning in Montmartre – Our second day of the itinerary bears striking resemblance to our 1-Day Paris Highlights Itinerary, albeit with a couple stops from that moved to Day 1 here, and other options added.
As with that, we highly recommend getting to Montmartre early to beat the crowds. This won’t save you any times in any lines, but this quaint, art village feels intimate and pleasant early in the morning, and that atmosphere gives way to touristy madness later in the day.
Ideally, you’ll want to take a relaxed stroll up the hill of Montmartre coming from one of the western Metro stations (we recommend Lamarck-Caulaincourt), which is the village’s more charming side. Spend some time wandering side streets, perusing art shops, and perhaps stopping for café au lait and breakfast.
End your morning in Montmartre by visiting the stunning Sacré-Cœur Basilica, which we think is another more than ample substitute for Notre-Dame. After that, you’ll leave for the Latin Quarter via one of the stations to the east. No need to linger on that side of Montmartre.
Pantheon – Rather than returning to Lamarck – Caulaincourt, we’d now recommend seeing a different side of Montmartre by walking to Gare du Nord and taking the RER B to Luxembourg. From there, you’ll walk to the Pantheon.
This is yet another stop that’s included with the Paris Museum Pass, and is a relatively quick visit (if you want it to be). Admittedly, the Pantheon is not among our favorite spots in Paris, but others absolutely love it and it’s worth at least a quick visit.
Latin Quarter & Luxembourg Gardens – As with Montmartre, the Latin Quarter will be overrun with tourists later in the day, so after a quick visit to the Pantheon, make this area your next stop. There are intimate alleyways full of antiques shops, independent booksellers, charming cafes, and it’s all a lot of fun to explore…so long as it’s not wall to wall tourists.
By the time late morning hits and the area starts getting more crowded, escape to Jardin du Luxeumbourg. This formal park and garden rounds out our “Versailles Consolation Duo” for those who don’t make that trip. The Luxembourg Gardens feature detailed statues, vibrant flowers, plenty of water features, and–most importantly–shade and seating. This makes it perfect for a picnic, so stop into a boulangerie for sandwiches and sweets before heading to Jardin du Luxeumbourg.
Musee d’Orsay – This is the top museum in Paris, and arguably the best art museum in the world. Our full Musée d’Orsay post discusses the “why” of this in detail, but suffice to say, this is not to be missed. Even with 2 days in Paris, you’ll want to limit your time here to under 3 hours.
The bulk of that time being spent in the upper Impressionist gallery, which is home to several masterworks by Monet, Renoir, Seurat, Degas, and other key members from the movement, including pieces on display at the Impressionist Exhibitions in Paris. However, be sure to also see the lower level exhibits, which also contain stunning pieces and great variety.
Musée de l’Orangerie – A short walk across the Seine, is the Orangerie Museum. This has a number of works by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Henri Rousseau, but is most famous for being chosen by the impressionist painter Claude Monet as the permanent home for his Water Lilies (Nymphéas) paintings, which are displayed in two large oval rooms.
We love Musee de l’Orangerie, which is small but packs a powerful punch thanks to Water Lilies and a heavy concentration of masterworks in its lower levels. From here, you’ll have a long walk on the banks of the Seine to the Eiffel Tower. Taking the RER between the two is a time-saving option, but we love this scenic Seine stroll, so we’d highly recommend taking the leisurely walk instead of the train.
Eiffel Tower – We disagree with the consensus that recommends doing Eiffel Tower first thing in the morning to beat the crowds. Instead, go shortly before sunset and get a ‘2 for 1’ by experiencing the view during the day and at night. Seeing the City of Light transition from daytime to sunset to dusk to night is an incredible experience that’s worth the elevated crowds.
Our Eiffel Tower: Tips & Mistakes post covers what to do and not do for more thorough planning. Visiting the Eiffel Tower can be frustrating and time-consuming, so you’ll definitely want to avoid common pitfalls and time things so you’re up there for the window between sunset and dusk. After this, we’d recommend culminating your 2 perfect days in Paris with a late night dinner in the area; there are countless options within a few blocks of the Eiffel Tower!
If you’re planning, we recommend starting by consulting our Ultimate Guide to Paris, France to plan all aspects of our vacation. You should also check out our other posts about France for ideas on other places to visit! 
Your Thoughts
What do you think of our 2-Day Perfect Paris Itinerary? What are your must-dos for a single day in the City of Light? Anything on here you’d skip? What about snubs you think are essential? Any thoughts or tips of your own to add? Questions about the itinerary? Hearing your feedback—even when you disagree with us—is both interesting and helpful to other readers, so please share your thoughts or questions below in the comments!
The post 2-Day Best of Paris, France Itinerary appeared first on Travel Caffeine.
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punk-in-docs · 7 years
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You Were Always Mine, Chapter 15
AU Tom Hiddleston - Romantic, Historical Romance, Victorian Fic. 
Based off the imagine; ‘Thomas spying on you after your divorce and doing anything to get you back. Including threatening your new beau.’ credits go to the lovely ladies at Tom-Hiddleston-Imagine.Tumblr.com. Link to the imagine here…. http://tom-hiddleston-imagines.tumblr.com/post/158156795440/gif-lokihiddleston-imagine-thomas-spying-on-you
 Chapter number: Chapter 15 Author: Punk-in-doc Triggers/warnings: Angst. Wounds, graphic mentions of past abuse. poor Vianne, she’s really having a rough time of it. Thomas, as ever, is lovely. And Dr. Erik Harriden proves himself a worthy ally.
Dr. Harriden stalked, in long strides, along the hotel corridors. His mood was somber, and his temper was shadowed with both concern and rage in equal measure. His arm was braced tightly downwards with the heavy weight of his medical bag. His rude awakening he had considered slightly less so, when the messenger told him that Sir Thomas Sharpe had sent the missive. The frown was wiped off his face completely when they mentioned it said Vianne was in dire trouble. Suddenly, he didn’t care that it was quarter past two in the morning. He was awake now. Riddled with a dark, sickening black worry for his work colleague.
When he comes to the prince of wales suite, he stands, rigid, and knocks sharply on the door. Even the unmusical, impatient tones of his knock sounded rich with strife.
Almost instantly, the door is wrenched open from the other side, and the dire face of the man who summoned him appears. It was a handsome face, he thought. Ravens hair, stark white skin, and the garish vermillion of a tear stain of a scar. Made all the more careworn by the black bags of anguish sitting heavily under his eyes.
“Doctor…” Comes the dulcet, somber tone from between the mans thin lips. This man looks as if death it’s very frightening self, was looking over his shoulder. Harriden can see, plain as day, the mans suffering was all due to the incertitude of Viannes current condition.
He widens the door, and the doctor sweeps silently inside. In the wake of the shutting door, Harriden turns as they are enclosed in the half dark, half candlelit extravagance of a formal sitting room. Decorated flawlessly. Huge, arched windows, framed with honey gold light from candelabras. This was the room of not only a man whose pockets were plentiful and deep. But a man who oozed wealth from every pore of his being. Comforts to make up for the fact his life before had been ripe with penury, scrounging about for capital, and debt wherever he could struggle for it.
Harriden could see this man, only in breeches, boots and a white shirt. His dark waistcoat hung at his sides. Smeared with blood. Smudges of it on his pale upper arms, exposed by the rolled sleeves. He stood wearily. Near exhausted by worry.
“I’m sorry to have called you out at such an ungodly, unsocial hour Doctor. But you are the only one I’ll trust to.. Tend to her.” He speaks lowly. Harriden nods in complete understanding. In this dark, odd mixture of half light and murky darkness that crept in at the edges of the room. Harriden can also sense a strange aura of guilt radiating from the man before him.
“How was she harmed? Mr. Sharpe? Who by? Who would wish her harm?” Harriden asks her gravely.
“I don’t know… And that terrifies me.” Sharpe answered in a angered growl. Clearly shaken. Harriden could see his pale hands trembling.
“This way…” He explains, leading the good doctor quickly through the large suite. Pressing open the bedchamber door. Harridens eyes go instantly to the figure prostrate on the large bed. Bundled under the bedcovers. One oil light casts honeyed light from the corner. But save for that, the room was unlit.
Thomas had covered her up so she wouldn’t get cold. And placed a moistened cloth on her arm, he had been burned numerous times before from his many inventions. He knew what the stinging burn could feel like, but hers looked a thousand times worse than any wound he’d suffered. The raw, weeping wound nearly covered the entire lower half along her left arm. Just below the elbow, and ending at the wrist. She was barely conscious, ebbing in and out. And when she did wake, she only made whimpering sounds of pain.
Harriden got to work immediately. Shedding his jacket, he sat on the side of the bed, and gave her a preliminary examination. She was very clammy, and he was worried about the state of the wound. Whatever caused it hasn’t been sterilised and he would have to bathe, and disinfect it. With regular injections to keep infection at bay.
“Fetch a cool cloth for her head. She’s very warm. If this wound is infected, I don’t want her to start presenting a fever.” He instructed Thomas. “Give her as much fluid as she can manage. Keep her cooled, she needs as much medicine as she can take for the pain and that nasty burn.” He tells. Thomas nods, scattering for the en-suite. He wrings a wet cloth under the ice cold tap. It was then he noticed how hard his hands were shaking. Fumbling all the more in the cold. And his reflection awaiting him in the mirror is a frightful one. His face was stark, sallow, pitted and he recognised that feral look of deep rooted sorrow, and fear in his eyes. Lingering, simmering in his chest ready to pounce and choke him if he was weak enough to let it.
He wrings out the ice cool cloth, and paced back through. Harriden was leaning over Vianne, her slim arm in his hand as he bathed the wound in something, getting the foreign dirt out of it so it could heal safely. He watched the water drop and twist down off her arm, into the excess bowl below. All the while she just lay there. Her breathing shallow and uneven. That’s what pains him most. The mere fact she was only just conscious, dipping in and out, able to just feel the pain. Not unconscious enough to allow her to feel nothing. It was torturing him.
He walks back across, and puts the cloth on her forehead. Watching her frown, clearly wincing in her drugged daze at the wound being cleaned. Thomas twines his fingers in her hair. Stroking it as he cups her clammy cheek in his hand and crouched by the head of the bed. His free hand clutching her right arm. Linking through her pale fingers. He can do nothing. Nothing, but paltry pastimes to try and ease her agony. And that hits him the hardest of all. Worst if all was that it makes him feel so horribly inadequate.
“Hold her tight. Mr. Sharpe. She may squirm.“ He forewarned him.
She thrashed all the more when Harriden applied said salve to the wound. She cried out.
“Don’t take them. Don’t let them take them away from me. Don’t…I love them. They’re mine! They should be with me! Please!” She cries. Thomas frowns over at Harriden in confusion. Begging for an explanation.
“She’s been drugged. She could be hallucinating…” Harriden explained.
Her body writhing around under the sheets. She fought, struggling against the source of the pain. Thomas clutched her close. Soothing her with gentle, calming words. Stroking her hair and holding her near. Clutching her close to his chest. Looking across anxiously to Harriden. Who gave him, in return, an empathetic look.
Harriden angrily grit his teeth. Dabbing still at her arm. Thomas saw the angered profile of his incensed expression. His dark eyes somber.
“Who could do this? She’ll be scarred with this injury for the rest of her life… The pain will have been… Unimaginable. Unbearable. What kind of man could do this? cause this amount of harm to someone as kind and sweet as her?” He asked Thomas.
He looked down at her, tenderly stroking her face before he answered the man.
“They were Monsters. Not men.” Thomas tells him.
He then gently lifted her good hand to his lips and kissed it. He watched her face all the while, before reaching back for the cloth and dabbing at her head once more. Her head lolled back into the pillows. That pale throat, stretched back, beaded in sweat. As was her forehead. Catching in the sparse gaslight there was to be had in the room.
“She spoke of you, you know…” Harriden spoke up. After Thomas finished watching him bathe, dress and pin the white bandage securely around her wrist. The immaculate dressing reached from elbow to palm. He was carefully laying her arm down straight when he spoke up.
Thomas blinked, startled, across at him. The revelation slowly dawning on him. Harriden saw it was the look of a man caught unawares. As if he didn’t deserve such a nice thing. Which the Doctor couldn’t believe for a second. Most married couples he attended on home calls, the husband waited outside the room, with cold indifference. And didn’t want to hear any singular intimate detail of his spouses condition. And the women were very uneasy, mortified, over having their anatomy discussed with a man who was not their husband. But this man, he hadn’t left her side. He mopped her brow, he calmed her down. He held her close, loved her. Kissed her hand. Looked as if he was being driven out of his sane mind with worry for her.
“She did?” He asks quietly. Still unbelieving. Harriden nodded a kind smile. His warm brown eyes melted, crinkling at the corners.
“More than St. Clair. Often. She told me about, your inventions, how you liked Bach, William Blake poetry, Rodin’s sculptures. How she met you at a Ball like it was any other night… But how she felt, so enraptured. How she joined you, on a picnic, when it rained afterward. To museums. To Guy Fawkes night, just for a stroll in regents park. She told me once that the scent of roast chestnuts, and bonfire smoke on cold, November air, would always remind her of you.” He told. Smiling as he sorted his various medical vials and bottles back into his monogrammed, cracked, leather case.
Thomas looked down at her, squeezing her hands.
“… Of course. When she spoke of Henry St. Clair, there was, some, affection. But it was… Colder. Words and memories of you fell freely, and fondly. I could see it, Mr. Sharpe, she had to force herself to smile when she thought of him.” He explained profoundly.
“… And then that night.” He paused. Angrily exhaling, shaking his head. Sharply rolling down his sleeves after having scrubbed his hands harshly, with a nail brush, in the enamel bowl of clean, warm water on the other bedside. The severe, hiss and scratch of tough bristles against skin made Thomas's teeth set on edge and his skin crawl.
“The night?” Thomas asks.
“Do you, know about… How he used to…treat her?” He asked carefully. Treading on eggshells.
Thomas’s heart was in his mouth. So he nods. An odd mixture of rage, guilt and sadness churning around in his stomach.
“I was the one who stitch her up. That night. Tell me, Mr. Sharpe, have you ever dislocated your shoulder?” He asks kindly.
“I have been blessed never to have gone through such a pain.” Thomas told.
“There’s no pain like it. It’s the most intense agony of any injury there is. He threw her down those stairs. And even with a separated shoulder, she caught a hackney cab halfway across London, to the royal. All the while she was loosing blood fast from the cuts in her back. I can’t pretend to know how excruciating those injuries were. She climbed five flights of stairs with a sprained ankle, to get to my office. Lord help me, I’ll never forget the sight that greeted me that night…” He told truthfully. Because he never would.
The lecture theatre doors had burst open, whining, shrieking, and Vianne tore through them. Limping, making her hobbling way through the seats. Sobbing Harriden’s name. But not his surname. His doctors title. No. She cried out his first name. Erik. He had burst out his office to get to her, and she collapsed in his arms. Weeping. Her eyes tear stained, makeup seeping down in dark trails over her cheeks. Her eyes red raw, and he could see blood dripping down her shoulder. Blossoming through the back of her dress. Her hands cut to ribbons, and a bruise flowering over her eye. She scrambled for his arms. Pleading, crying through the agony, meeting his eyes. Making him swear, on his life, that he wouldn’t let anyone know she was here because a man had beaten her. He agrees. And then he can tend to her wounds. Biting his tongue. Not able to say what he truly wanted too.
Thomas sat, enraptured, eyes glistening tears as he listened through his story. Clutching her hand.
“Mr. Sharpe. I’ve stitched her up, over six times. I can recall every injury. Every black eye. Bruises on her neck, her back and shoulders that she didn’t let out a word about. I will not stay silent and let another man torture her. She has been through hell because of that, savage. If I can avoid any more harm coming to her, I will do it with all the might, fury, and every fibre of my being.” He promises the man.
“I assure you, Dr. If any harm comes to her, it most certainly shall not originate from me. I would give my life in defence of her well-being. I adore her. I love her. Love is my religion and I could die for that.” He speaks clearly.
Harriden crooked a smile. “Keats. Very noble.” He smiles.
“But… Your gallantry is wasted. Sharpe. No man gets a wound like the ones slashed across your stomach, and bashed across your knuckles, if not in defence of someone else’s life and safety.” He told him, with easy, well learned, medical confidence.
Thomas looked down his front, dismayed to see his wound from the alley altercation was seeping through the bandages he’d wound across his torso that very morning before getting dressed. His shredded, black and blue, sore, swollen knuckles grated with white pain when he moved his hand to pluck at his shirt front. He smiled wryly.
“I wasn’t trying to insinuate you are under any sort of blame… But, you find out who did this, to her. You find them, and make them pay for the both of us. For doing this to someone whom we clearly both care a great deal about…” Harriden pressed. Thomas could see the affection he had for his colleague. On the serious gleam in his eyes, that had previously been so soft, and welcoming. The hard, unamused lines on his face that belied his bone deep anger, rage, at seeing her in such a state of agony once again.
Thomas smiled. Safe in the knowledge that apart from the ugliness of their separation, and Henry abusing her, she had found some good people to align herself with in this world. People to keep her smiling, to keep the pain, and darkness at bay.
“She told me how when she started at the Royal, you took her under your wing from her first day. She was terrified of making a mistake, or hurting someone. And she said you came in, all smiles, jokes and put everyone at ease. She wasn’t so scared after that. She deserves that… She deserved someone good, like you.” He complimented.
Harriden smiled at the jerking of that memory. He remembers her first day too. Her eyes full of wonder, her longing thirst for knowledge. "You know she pointed out early signs of gangrene in a patients foot ulcer. Not even matron, or the other surgeons had picked up on that. Her observations were remarkable… She is a nurse down in the very marrow of her bones.“ Harriden told him. Thomas smiled warmly. It was the first time all evening the Doctor had seen Sharpe’s frosty blue eyes thaw. In fond recalled memories of his Vianne.
"That sounds like her… She told me as a girl and was always the one taking in wounded birds and healing them, setting them free again. She has a nurturing touch… Everyone who knows her, knows how caring she is.” Thomas told him. Harriden beamed, nodding in agreement. That was Vianne all over.
“Anyway. I’d best be going… It’s late and the both of you need your rest. She must keep the dressing clean, and dry. And apply salve before any sterile bandages to stop the wound sticking. She’ll know the rest when she wakes… But she should be alright for now. She’ll sleep. And she may take whatever she needs for pain relief when she wakes…” He tells the man. Moving to the end of the bed. Shirt righted once more. Neat as a pin. Standing proud, imposing, with his arm taut holding his heavy medical bag. The professional, smart doctor once again.
“Thankyou. Again, Doctor. So much, for attending her.” Thomas speaks warmly. Reaching across to shake his hand. Thomas fingers were cold, and rigid. And Harriden felt his hands jolt, too swollen to properly grip back.
“Did I need to see to those hands?” Harriden asks. “You must be in pain. Sir..” He asks. Eyeing him, scrutinising for the obvious symptoms.
“I’ll heal fine. I just wish the same could be said for her arm…” Thomas spoke in perceptible distress. Going back to Vianme, holding her pale hand in his again. Re-wringing out the cloth to make it cooler. Placing it back on her heated forehead.
“Give it time.” Harriden said. “I know it's…horrible. But it will fade. Eventually.” He sighs. Thomas nods. And in that nod, Harriden could see his determination. If he needed too. He’d sit up all night, by her bed. Attending her every need. Easing her pain.
“I’ll see myself out. And you write me personally, again, if you need any shred of help. I am a friend to her, and to you. If you need one.” He explained nicely. Disappearing around the doorframe. Out of sight.
Thomas nodded. Retaking his seat. Listening as the Doctors footfalls grow hushed, then quiet. The noise of the door shutting in his wake echoes through the dead silence of the hotel room. All he could hear now, was the spit and crackle of the fire, the the noises of gaiety outside on the pavements, feet clacking, carriage wheels and hooves rattling, drifting up to the window.
He looks down over her. Watching her chest rise and fall. He toys with a lock of curled red hair. Winding it round his finger. Looking with anger on the bruise that had been bashed on her temple. Now turning a violent purple. A crescent shaped dent in the centre a stark shade of vermillion where it had broken the skin. He pulled the covers up to her chest, making sure she kept warm. His cool, swelling fingers reached around the back of her neck, cupping her slender nape, feeling her temperature that was just above normal. Her hot skin branded his icy fingers.
In the silence, his tiredness suddenly creeps in. Now he can feel the grating bones of his hands, swelling painfully. The strain of his hunched shoulders, aching cheeks from blows in the fight. And the wound on his torso was starting to sting. His eyes feel incredibly heavy, and he is fighting just to keep them focused and alert.
He stifles a yawn. And after reaching for the heavy eiderdown pushed to the foot of the bed, he ensures she is covered, content, and happy. Before pouring himself a small, stiff drink from the crystal cut decanter in the parlour area, crossing back to the bedchamber, he chucks the drink back. Crosses to the short settee, and reclines his legs on it. Stretching out. His long limbs uncurling out, finally able to relax. The door he’d bolted. The windows were all locked. For tonight, they were safe.
He watched her, feeling the firelight taint the side of his face. Warming him. His eyes go fuzzy, the rooms blurs. And he falls asleep by the time the whiskey hits his stomach.
~
It’s the coolness that wakes her, she shuffled, moving her head. Her eyes stir. And when she peeks them open, she feels that it actually wasn’t her moving her head, but a calloused palm pressing down a cool, wet cloth to her head is what rouses her in the end.
“Thomas?” She asks, letting her eyes adjust to the cold blue light of the ceiling up ahead. She didn’t recognise the room before her. The unfamiliar bed, window and decor. She whimpers his name.
When her hooded eyes slither open, she squints, before the blurry focus of him comes into view. Those piercing eyes the same shade as the midnight blue room about them, that dark hair swinging in his face. He soothes her, smiling down at her, stroking her soft, cold forehead.
“I’m here. Vianne. My love. I’m here…” He tells her.
“Have they gone?” She rasps. His heart breaks for her. He nods.
“They’ve gone. They won’t come back. They won’t get to you, or us, anymore. I promise.” He assures her.
She shifts over in bed, trying sitting up, hissing at the splintering pain shooting through her eye sockets. She feels him startle as she moves so vigorously. He places a hand over her good one.
“Easy. Slowly, darling…” He tells her. “You’ve been through a lot tonight.” He adds. She was caring, but she was headstrong.
“Where are we?” She asks, hoarsely. Frowning bewilderedly at the unfamiliar place. He scatters from his chair. Making a beeline for the side table. He pours her a cup of slightly cooled tea, stirs in milk. And walked it back over to her. He held it close, helping her with her good hand to drink it. She’d been asleep for hours, she was bound to feel parched.
“The Ritz. My suite. I didn’t want to take you back home. Just in case it wasn’t safe. They knew where you worked. I didn’t wish to take the risk.” He explains.
She nods, sipping the tea. The wet heat of it was bliss. It may have been the worlds best cup of tea. It certainly tasted like it. It stung her teeth, and branded her throat. But it was heaven to the sticky, dry chasm of her parched lips. She moans gratefully. Draining the cup dry in one quick gulp.
He smiles at her ravenous appetite. Glad to see she was getting better already. It had scared him earlier. Her writhing and twisting in agony and in a drugged haze.
“Harriden said you should drink as much as possible. And, get to your feet again slowly. When you want too. Not to overwhelm you with strain.” He tells. After getting her another cup of tea, handing it to her good hand. She took it gratefully.
“You must be getting tired of saving my skin.” She tells him. Her eyes having swept over the swelling in his hands. The new bruises by his eye, and on his knuckles.
He smiles. Patting her knee softly under the covers.
“The lovely skin is more than worth saving.” He awards her. She is sure she blushes. Then she asks the question that had been echoing in her head all night. Rattling back and forth like ball bearings in a tin can.
“How did you know where to find me? How did you… Get there before they managed to do something worse than this…?” She asks. Lifting her poorly arm to show him what she meant.
His face fell. And she watches his jaw grit together. He averts his eyes. Wets his lips. And then he meets her eyeline once again. Looking apprehensive.
“Your not going to like it…” He tells her in a quiet hush.
“Thomas, who was it? Who told you?” She asks keenly.
He didn’t want to tell her. But he had too. He owes her that much. However strange and frightening her evening had been. It was all the more terrifying hearing the following name sail out of his lovely lips.
“Rosamund Price.” He says stiffly.
 ~
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mastcomm · 4 years
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If Women Ruled the World, What Would They Wear?
PARIS — A few decades ago, around the time she unveiled her breakthrough work “The Dinner Party” and formulated her animating question “What if Women Ruled the World?,” the artist Judy Chicago made a maquette of an enormous sculpture she wanted to build.
Entitled “The Female Divine,” it would be a reclining corpulent nude, reveling in her own fleshy abundance. At the time, Ms. Chicago couldn’t get anyone to fund the piece. “Who would want to see that?” was the general drift.
Approximately 40 years later, enter Dior. On Monday, the brand made Ms. Chicago’s dream a reality. The fashion version of it, anyway,
Instead of a sculpture, the brand built a show space in the shape of Ms. Chicago’s goddess: a 250-foot long, more than 80-foot wide and 50-foot high tent splayed in the gardens of the Rodin Museum, dwarfing the French sculptor’s heroic marbles. Guests entered via a doorway cut into the tent’s curving bottom, like the entry to the birth canal, and strolled inside to sit down in the belly of the woman.
“I have learned,” said Ms. Chicago, who is 80, in an interview the day before the Dior show, “that you never know what will happen if you live long enough and put art out into the world.” Ideas, too.
That women could rule the world — or at least legislate much of it — no longer seems such a pipe dream in the era of Nancy Pelosi as speaker of the house; of Sanna Marin as Finland’s prime minister; and Ursula von der Leyen as president of the European Commission. Of the fourth Women’s March, which took place two days before the Dior show. And of Dior itself, its women’s wear now designed by an actual woman, Maria Grazia Chiuri.
(That sentence may sound ridiculous, but it is correct.)
Since 2016, when she became the first female artistic director of the house, Ms. Chiuri has made it her mission to champion the feminist cause, creating logo tees based on the equality-challenging words of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and the poet Robin Morgan, and backdrops with the artist and poet Tomaso Binga. Ms. Chicago (whom Ms. Chiuri called one of the women who most influenced her), is now part of the gang.
In addition to the structure itself, the interior was hung with 21 heraldic banners designed by the artist and woven by a school of female embroiderers in India (where embroidery has traditionally been a male profession) that is supported by Dior. The banners were emblazoned with more questions: “Would There Be Violence?” “Would There Be Equal Parenting?” “Would God Be Female?”
Maybe a more apropos query, however, would be: If women ruled the world, what would they wear?
This is, after all, the question that fashion, in its constantly changing iterations, purports to answer. It is certainly the question at the heart of couture, designed, as it is, to the specifications of each individual.
Ms. Chiuri’s answer? Flat shoes.
Clothes with all the stuffing taken out. Roman gowns in gold lamé and silken fringe, with jacquard shorts beneath instead of a slip. T-shirts of sheer tulle scrimmed by elaborate scrollwork atop tiers of pewter silk in a Greek key motif. Chiffon slips hanging from twists of rope at one shoulder. Waltzing dresses embroidered with sheaves of wheat. Bracelets that snaked, literally, up the arm. A finale look featuring a burnished moon rising over a sea of midnight blue beads.
Also metallic jacquard pantsuits that gave the Bar some boardroom chic. Imagine Minerva in Davos, and you will get the idea.
Still, it was hard not to wonder: If women ruled the world, wouldn’t they deserve clothes that redefined them entirely, instead of making them look like slightly more modern versions of deities gone by? The point of learning from history is not to repeat it. Yet at the couture, perhaps because it is often seen as fashion’s umbilical cord to the past, designers can’t seem to stop.
Giambattista Valli’s presentation of more than 30 signature looks at the Jeu de Paume museum, for example — bubble dresses in silk taffeta covered in organza petals; sweeping ball gowns in 300 yards of daffodil tulle; a lime green silk faille caftan encrusted in crystals — spoke of Jackie Onassis and Truman Capote’s swans with cigarette holders. Daniel Roseberry’s sophomore Schiaparelli couture leaned a little too heavily into the traditional surreal tropes of the house, including winking eyes and trompe l’oeil candelabra, that were great in slouchy trouser suits and gowns that provided their own cloud cover, but off the mark entirely in fake tan lines and awning-striped bathing suit gowns emerging from seas of hot pink skirts.
And Virginie Viard’s Chanel simply carried on with the semiotics set by her mentor and predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, albeit in a more minimal, unforced kind of way.
On a set built to mimic the vegetable gardens of the abbey orphanage in Aubazine, France, where Coco Chanel spent her youth among nuns and (apparently) tomatoes, complete with vintage linens hanging on the line, Ms. Viard sent out a collection almost entirely in black and white, etching a progression of silhouettes from schoolgirl through governess, and attitudes both naïve and strict. Collars pie-crust and Peter Pan in lace and jewels framed bouclé uniform skirt suits and ballerina dresses; narrow, pleated shirtwaists swept the ankles; and evening gowns had shoulders swathed in sheer organza, glinting like stars.
They were light in step, timeless in message (we all grow up), yet old fashioned in effect. These were roles, after all, that once confined women. Chanel herself broke free. Ms. Viard hasn’t yet. At least she’s moving — baby steps! — in the right direction.
One currently occupied by Iris Van Herpen, a designer whose imagination is not bound by the expectations of forms past, but rather shaped by a search for forms and techniques future: 3-D printing, laser cutting, heat bonding. Her inspirations, this time around, bridged the work of the Spanish neuroanatomist Ramón y Cajal and the exploration of the taxonomic class hydrozoa: the deepest marine life.
The result was a nebula of organza, chiffon and cotton, oil-painted and glassine layers, cut into vines and extruded squiggles, swirling around the body in constant flux.
Instead of a silhouette, her clothes (because they are recognizably clothes, not concepts) embrace evolution. To update the existing status quo can be admirable. But to make your own rules is — well, divine.
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Nearly four Perfect Days for Your Paris Vacation
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Every time we think we have written or read it all about Paris, the Turner capital turns a slightly different profile, enchanting us all once again. One of the world’s most visited cities, it can be a challenge for high season to remember you’re on vacation.
 Of course, you want to note it all on your Paris vacation! The problem is, so do many of the various 16 million visitors Paris gets each year. The high year or so queues are long, and local tempers have been known to crack. If it is your first time in the City of Lights, consider at least one perfect Paris days to fill in your day at a free time. They’ve been designed to let you take in the city a bit at the moment, still ensuring you see as many of the highlights as possible. In the event that an attraction doesn’t pique your interest, skip it!
Outstanding Boulevards, Icons, and Shopping Streets
Arrive early along at the Eiffel Tower, with pre-booked elevator tickets in hand if you are looking up. Then jump aboard a Seine Cruise to take many of the city’s most famous landmarks from the river, a great way to become familiar the city in a short time, or inspire the rest of your sightseeing. Stroll on the Champs de Mars before paying your respects towards Napoleon at Les Invalides, the former army hospital spun museum of French army history. Right next door is normally Musee Rodin, where you can admire many of the master’s works. Significantly, don’t miss the sculpture garden, even in winter. A shorter walk over the Pont Alexandre III brings you to the impressive Grand Palais and Petit Palais. Take your time gawking around the architecture before reaching the famous Champs Elysees. Arguably the exact world’s most famous shopping street, strolling this grand blvd is a Paris must-do on your France vacation.
Genius in addition to Charm on the Left Bank
Start the day at Musee d’Orsay before things get too busy. Many come gone remembering it as their favorite museum on their Paris holiday escapes, packed with great – mostly French – modern artists, yet small enough to navigate in a single morning. In the future, stroll the banks of the Seine back to the Latina Quarter, keeping your eyes peeled for a not-too-touristy gargote for lunch. Alternatively, pick up some wine, cheese, plus bread from a local grocer and take your picnic so that you can Luxembourg Gardens. The Latin Quarter rewards aimless walking around, though it’s definitely worth swinging by the Pantheon. Be sure that you leave time for the Towers of Notre Dame. The inside of Paris’ grand dame cathedral is beautiful, still, it’s the history and view from the rooftop that moves it into legend. If you still have time, take in the very stained glass windows of Sainte Chapelle, a short walk away.
The main Glamour and Artistry of Paris
Arrive early around the Louvre and try to see its star attractions first, prior to a crowds swarm in. Nobody sees it all in one go, which means that don’t push yourself so hard you leave tired and even grumpy. One popular strategy is to follow a roundabout method that visits both the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, then leave. 
This may lose you the respect of down and dirty level art fanatics everywhere, but it will take you by hundreds together with hundreds of astonishing pieces, and give you an appreciation within the Louvre itself while ensuring you don’t miss her two biggest attractions on your Paris vacation. In the afternoon, head to the Palais Garnier, Paris’ exquisite opera family home. It’s found within a block of famed department store Galeries Lafayette if you feel like more shopping. Spend the balance within the afternoon exploring Bohemian Montmartre. A walking tour is for the best since this will reveal sides to the neighborhood you’re probably gonna miss as a visitor.
Offbeat and Creative Paris
Drop by The Catacombs of Paris this morning. With luck, you need straight in, if on a trip to Paris during the off-season. If not, take a timed entry ticket and fill in your company's wait exploring the attractive surrounding neighborhood. When you’re undertaken looking in on Paris’ 6 million subterranean deceased, hop the metro to Pere Lachaise Cemetery, for you to pay your respects to its biggest stars, either by birth or association – including Nancy Callas, Oscar Wilde, and Jim Morrison.Spend the mid-day in Le Marais, a trendy and popular district filled with several museums including the National Museum of Modern Art while in the mind-bending Pompidou Centre. Picasso fans will want to head to the main Picasso National Museum instead – or as well. For those who haven’t paid them a visit already, you’re a stone’s throw here from Notre Dame and Sainte Chappelle.
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easytravelpw-blog · 5 years
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The Top 30 Things to Do in Paris, France
01 of 30
Visit the Louvre Museum and Old Palace
Photo by Ivan Vukelic / Getty Images
To learn the Louvre inside and out, you might need half a lifetime. Still, one has to start somewhere. The site of the world's most extensive and most diverse collection of pre-20th-century painting, sculpture, and decorative objects, the Louvre is a global touristic drawcard. Not forgetting the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo, make sure to visit less crowded wings, to bask in the works of Vermeer, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, and countless others. The centuries-old palace itself is a testament to a rich history spanning from the medieval period to the present.
02 of 30
See the Notre Dame Cathedral, a Gothic Marvel
Filip Farag/Moment/Getty Images
No first trip to Paris is complete without a visit to this marvel of gothic architecture, dating to the 12th century. One of the most unique and beautiful cathedrals of Europe, Notre Dame Cathedral's dramatic towers, spire, stained glass and statuary are guaranteed to take your breath away. 
Witness firsthand the spot that was once the heartbeat of medieval Paris, and that took over 100 years of hard labor to complete. Climbing the North tower to see Paris from the hunchback Quasimodo's vantage is essential, too. You'll soon understand why Notre Dame is one of Paris' top attractions.
03 of 30
Go to the Top of the Eiffel Tower
Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images News
More than any other landmark, the Eiffel Tower has come to represent an elegant and contemporary Paris—but this wasn't always so. The iron tower, which was built for the 1889 World Exposition by Gustave Eiffel, was wildly unpopular with Parisians when it was unveiled and was nearly torn down. 
It has since attracted over 220 million visitors, and it would be hard to imagine Paris now without it. The tower crowns the Paris night sky with its festive light and glitters up a storm every hour. It has also recently firmly entered the twenty-first century, retrofitted with solar panels and glass-floored observation platforms, to the delight of some and the vertigo of others. Cliché? Yes, maybe. But essential. 
04 of 30
See Breathtaking Impressionist Art at the Musée d’Orsay
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Walk over the bridge from the Louvre to the Musee d'Orsay and witness a literal and figurative bridge between classical and modern art. Housing the world's most important collection of impressionist and post-impressionist painting, the Musee d'Orsay's light, airy rooms whir you through three floors of modern wonders, from Degas' ethereal dancers to Monet's water lilies, all the way to Gaugin's verdant jungles. Significant works by Van Gogh, Delacroix, Manet, and others await you, too.
Continue to 5 of 30 below.
05 of 30
Walk Around the Sorbonne and the Latin Quarter
Glenn Beanland/Lonely Planet Images
The Sorbonne University is the historic soul of the Latin Quarter, where higher learning has flourished for centuries. Founded in 1257 for a small group of theology students, the Sorbonne is one of Europe's oldest universities. It has hosted countless great thinkers, including philosophers René Descartes, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir. Enjoy a drink on the café terrace in front of the college before exploring the winding little streets of the Quartier Latin behind it.
06 of 30
Marvel at the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysees
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The 164-foot Arc de Triomphe commissioned by Emperor Napoléon I ​does exactly what it was made to do: Evoke sheer military power and triumph. It was built in an age when leaders erected monuments in their own honor and scaled to their egos. The arch's beautiful sculptures and reliefs commemorate Napoléon's generals and soldiers. Visit the Arc de Triomphe to begin or culminate a walk down the equally grandiose Avenue des Champs-Elysées. You can't help but feel grand yourself.
07 of 30
Visit Centre Pompidou and the Beaubourg Neighborhood
Courtney Traub
Parisians consider the Centre Georges Pompidou to be the cultural pulse of the city. This modern art museum and cultural center, located in the neighborhood affectionately dubbed Beaubourg by locals, opened in 1977 to honor president Georges Pompidou.
The Center's signature skeletal design, which evokes bones and blood vessels, is either loved or reviled—no in-betweens. If wacky design isn't your cup of tea, the permanent collection at the National Museum of Modern Art is a must and features works by Modigliani and Matisse. Rooftop views of the city are also in order.
08 of 30
Explore the Sacré Coeur and Montmartre
Yulia Resnikov/Moment Open
With its unmistakable white dome that some compare to a meringue crowning the city, the Sacré Coeur sits at the highest point of Paris on the Montmartre knoll, or butte. This basilica, which was consecrated in 1909, is best-known for its garish gold mosaic interiors and for its dramatic terrace, from which you can expect sweeping views of Paris on a clear day.
Take the funicular up with a metro ticket and stop off at Sacré Coeur before exploring the winding, village-like streets of Montmartre. And after expending all your energy climbing Montmartre's formidable hills and stairs, consider spending an evening at a traditional Parisian cabaret such as the legendary Moulin Rouge or the ultra-folksy Au Lapin Agile.
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09 of 30
Take a Boat Tour of the Seine River
Jesus M Garcia/Moment/Getty Images
Seeing some of Paris' most beautiful sites glide past as you drift down the Seine river is an unforgettable and essential experience. Companies such as Bateaux-Mouches and Bateaux Parisiens offer one-hour tours of the Seine year-round for about 10 Euros. You can hop on near Notre Dame or the Eiffel Tower. Go at night to enjoy the shimmering play of light on the water, and dress warmly—the wind from off the Seine can be chilly. You can also take tours of some of Paris' canals and waterways, which will allow you to see a semi-hidden side of the city of light.
10 of 30
Stroll Through Père Lachaise Cemetery
Graham Monro/Gm photographics/Getty Images
Paris counts within its walls many of the world's most poetic cemeteries, but Père-Lachaise outdoes them all. Countless famous figures are buried here: the most popular being The Doors lead singer Jim Morrison, whose tomb is kept constant vigil by fans. The French playwright Molière, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, and Richard Wright are a few others. On a sunny day, climbing to the cemetery's summit and looking down on the lavishly designed crypts can be surprisingly joyful.
11 of 30
Admire Sculptures at the Musée Rodin
Yoann JEZEQUEL Photography / Getty Images
Tour a great sculptor's studio in a romantic setting at the Musée Rodin, completely renovated and re-opened to visitors in November 2015. Set in an 18th-century mansion, the museum is home to more than 6,000 works by Rodin, including “The Thinker“and “The Kiss“. There are also 15 sculptures in the permanent collection from the French sculptor Camille Claudel, another master. 
After seeing the sculptures, make sure to spend some time admiring the extensive collection of drawings and cast molds on display. The lush grounds are home to a rose garden, café and fountains. More iconic sculptures from Rodin grace the gardens, including “Orpheus” and bronze studies for “The Burghers of Calais”. 
12 of 30
See World-Class Contemporary Art at the Foundation Louis Vuitton
Eric Lafforgue/Art in All of Us / Getty Images
This stunning new foundation designed by Frank Gehry offers world-class contemporary arts shows and one of the most unique additions to the Parisian skyline in recent years. The collection houses work owned by Bernard Arnault, the chairman and CEO of LVMH. You'll see everything from giant Gerhard Richter paintings to interactive installations by Danish artist Olafur Eliasson. Afterward, have a picnic or a stroll at the sprawling park and wood known as the Bois de Boulogne. 
Continue to 13 of 30 below.
13 of 30
Shop (or Window-Shop) on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Thomon/Creative Commons 2.0 License/Some rights reserved
If you want to shop like a Parisian high-roller—or at least pretend to—head to Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and the surrounding district. Joining the 1st and 8th arrondissements (districts), the street is lined with the biggest names in fashion and luxury, ranging from old-school couture labels like Goyard, Hermès, Gucci and Prada, as well as contemporary, coveted houses and designers (Apostrophe Jun Ashida).  You can also find bespoke perfume, high-end jewelry, scrumptious pastries and even old-world, fine luggage. It's no wonder it's included in our guide to the best shopping districts in the French capital. 
14 of 30
Find a Vintage Treasure at the Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt/St Ouen
Lucas Schifres/Getty Images News
It's easy to get overwhelmed at this sprawling Parisian flea market. After all, the 150-year-old puces— literally, “fleas”– is among the world's largest. But with a bit of focus and perseverance, you can find a treasure within the labyrinth of stalls, regardless of if you're hunting for antique silver cutlery or vintage Chanel couture. The market is located on the edge of north Paris, where the 18th arrondissement meets the suburb of St. Ouen.
The easiest way to get there? Take Metro Line 4 to “Porte de Clignancourt” and follow the signs to the market. You can also take line 13 to the Porte de St Ouen station (and to the side of the “puces” that stretch into the suburb). 
15 of 30
Wander Through the Marais District
Philippe Lissac/Getty Images
If there's a better French neighborhood for strolling, sightseeing, shopping, tasting and people-watching all in a single morning or afternoon, we haven't found it. The Marais, which spans the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, has a rich history in Paris: It's home to the city's historic Jewish Quarter (pletzl), and also serves as the heartbeat of the city's vibrant LGBT community.
Within the always-bustling, you'll also find stunning hôtel particuliers (old-school mansions), numerous medieval sites and landmarks, a plethora of high-end and designer boutiques, and many of the city's best museums, including the Musée Picasso. 
16 of 30
Relax & Stroll at the Luxembourg Gardens
Jennifer Maiolo/Getty Images
Even if you know very little about the French capital, you might have a mental image of Parisians relaxing in lawn chairs on terraces overlook ornate, manicured lawns and ponds. This is an iconic image you can play out for yourself by visiting the Luxembourg Gardens, an Italian and French-style haven that was once the stomping grounds of the Queen Marie da Medici.
While it's a favorite place to relax with a picnic, the Renaissance-era formal gardens are popular among joggers and walkers, and children who race their sailboats behind the Sénat. Also be sure to admire the collection of statues: some of our favorites include stately sculpted images of the different Queens and other royal women of France throughout history. 
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17 of 30
See the Largest Public Collection of Picasso’s Work
Courtesy of Musée Picasso 
After closing for nearly five years, the Musée Picasso in Paris re-opened at the end of 2014, fresh off a pricey renovation. Now, this world-class museum spans more than 50,000 square feet and houses thousands of works by the inimitable Spanish artist. The main building, a 17th-century mansion in the Marais (see #15), features furniture designed by the legendary Diego Giacometti. 
Housing masterpieces as well as works from lesser-known periods in Picasso's work, the museum also offers temporary exhibits showcasing the work of artists such as Giacometti. It's a must-see for anyone interested in the history of 20th-century art. 
18 of 30
Eat Some Famous Parisian Ice Cream
Public domain/Creative Commons
Tucked away on the Ile Saint-Louis, you'll find nearly 100 flavors of ice cream at the famous Berthillon. Depending on the season, you can try everything from wild strawberry to peach, hazelnut, pistachio and white chocolate. The shop's idyllic setting—nestled on a small island in the Seine, across from Notre-Dame Cathedral—makes it a must-visit. You can stroll the streets, lined with 17th-century mansions, while you enjoy your cone.
Looking for more places to try excellent ice cream in Paris? See our full guide here. 
19 of 30
Satisfy Natural Curiosities at Deyrolle
Marc Dantan/Deyrolle
Seeking a bit of the old-fashioned and the strange? Deyrolle is an old Parisian boutique (open since 1831) that notably specializes in taxidermied animals (none are recent, though, a potentially reassuring point for those concerned with animal rights).  
Located in the 7th arrondissement, this veritable cabinet of curiosities houses life-sized tigers, bears, birds, and more, as well as countless drawers filled with every possible butterfly, bug, or insect you can imagine. Many of the boutique's subjects have been used in the study of botany, entomology, and zoology. This is certainly one of the weirdest shops in Paris– and well worth a visit, if you can handle the taxidermy. 
20 of 30
Shop at a French Food Market
Courtney Traub
The French take their food very seriously and there's no better way to experience that first-hand than to visit one of the city's many open-air food markets. These markets are typically held several times throughout the week, and there's one in almost every neighborhood. Even if you're staying in a hotel, you can stock of up on fresh fruit, cheese, charcuterie, and other snacks—perfect for taking in a picnic along the Seine. 
Also see our mouthwatering guide to the Marché d'Aligre, a favorite farmer's market among locals in the city. 
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21 of 30
Get Lost Inside an Old-World French Department Store
Petter Palander/Some rights reserved under the Creative Commons license
In addition to being masters of all things cuisine and gastronomy, Parisians are also expert shoppers. This is evidenced by their sprawling, elegant department stores.
These multi-storied behemoths–many built during the elegant turn-of-the-twentieth-century period known as the “Belle Epoque”– stock everything from wine to haute couture to hardware and home supplies. Among our favorites: BHV, in Le Marais, Galeries Lafayette, and the Le Bon Marché, the first-ever modern department store. 
22 of 30
Amble Around the Latin Quarter
Dennis K. Johnson/ Lonely Planet Images/Getty
Nothing quite says Paris like a day strolling through the Latin Quarter, one of the city's most storied and beloved districts. Start by browsing books at the beloved English bookshop Shakespeare and Company, before heading over to the Sorbonne University square to have a coffee. Then check out the medieval treasures at the Musée Cluny, browse rare books and antiques near the Jardin du Luxembourg, and wind through the narrow little streets behind the Pantheon to the Place de la Contrescarpe.
Or just wander and make any number of your own discoveries: morning light hitting the tops of the buildings; the joy of tasting fresh bread, pastries and fruit on the market-centric Rue Mouffetard or the Place Monge…the possibilities are nearly endless. 
23 of 30
Explore the Canal St Martin & Its Hip Shops, Restaurants
Peet Simard/Getty Images
Anyone who wants to understand contemporary Paris should spend some time strolling up and around the Canal St. Martin, one of the city's most vibrant and innovative areas. Walk to the center of one of the graceful, metallic green bridges to watch boats float down the canal (and come through complex lock systems). 
Enjoy a glass of wine and a few small plates at a wine bar, or nosh on eclectic cuisine in one of the area's countless, utterly hip new restaurants. Browse boutiques and art bookshops for the latest in style and design. You can even have a picnic right by the water– a favorite local pastime. 
24 of 30
See Some of Monet’s Most Beautiful Work at This Small Museum
gigi7491/Some rights reserved under Creative Commons 2.0 license
Many visitors to Paris completely overlook a small collection at the west end of the Tuileries gardens that harbors one of Impressionist master Claude Monet's most breathtaking works of art. But they shouldn't. 
Pay a visit to the Orangerie Museum and witness the sweeping, poetic beauty of Nymphéas, a series of murals that plunge you into Monet's distinctive world of color, light and watery landscapes. His waterlilies are a symbol of world peace, painted following the end of the first World War as a gesture of hope and reconciliation. 
In addition to Monet's stirring masterpiece, the Orangerie museum also hosts the Jean Walter – Paul Guillaume collection, with remarkable works from the likes of Cézanne, Renoir, Picasso, Sisley, Matisse and Modigliani. After you've seen the Orsay and the Centre Pompidou collections, an afternoon here offers another dose of artistic inspiration– and education. 
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25 of 30
Take a Day Trip to Versailles
Daniel Haug / Getty Images
Versailles and its world-famous palace and gardens are a quick one-hour trip outside the city, making it an essential and easy day trip from   Paris.
This 17th-century palace had humble beginnings as a hunting lodge before turning into an opulent palace under the rule of Louis XIV, also known as the “Sun King”. Today, strolling through the extensive formal gardens and visiting the incredible Hall of Mirrors is an experience you won't likely forget. Also make sure to reserve some time for the quieter, lesser-known buildings and gardens, including the Petit Trianon and Queen's Hamlet, where Marie Antoinette retired from the pressures of court life and even pretended at times to be a humble shepherdess or milkmaid. 
26 of 30
Go Underground into the Catacombs
Denise Grover Swank
It doesn't have to be Halloween for you to thoroughly enjoy the creepy experience of going far underground to see the Catacombs of Paris.  There are dozens of miles of tunnels dug way below street level, but only a small portion of these can (legally) be visited. 
Here, after buying a ticket and descending a long spiral staircase, you'll be plunged into a strange world of death. Millions of human bones and skulls are neatly stacked (in curious, very French fashion) alongside the pathways– souls who were transferred from overcrowded cemeteries in the 18th and 19th centuries. Some will find this attraction decidedly chilling, while others will enjoy it as an archaeological and social curiosity. Either way, it's well worth a couple of hours. 
27 of 30
Eat Some Delicious French Bread & Pastries
Mitch Diamond/Stockbyte/Getty Images
A trip to the French capital would be incomplete without ducking into a few warm, inviting bakeries and patisseries (pastry shops) to taste their tempting creations. From all-butter croissants and pain au chocolat that boast the ideal balance between flakiness and softness, to crusty, impeccably baked baguettes, creamy lemon mini-tarts and fluffy eclairs, there's a whole gourmet world to discover out there.
Yet you shouldn't be intimidated. While stunning, these products are part and parcel of daily life in Paris. To find out where to find some of the best bread, browse this guide. For mouthwatering pastries and cakes, see our guide to the city's best patisseries. 
  28 of 30
Visit the Old Paris Operahouse…and See a Ballet There
Yang Liu/Getty Images
Confusingly enough, the Palais Opera Garnier doesn't actually host opera performances these days– that's the job of the newer Opera Bastille. But this historic site, now home to the French National Ballet, is a remarkable place to visit, inside and out.
Its sumptuous, elegant design can be admired from far down the equally regal Avenue de l'Opéra– an iconic sight well worth seeking out. Inside, the magnificent stairway in the entrance and main theatre, crowned with a moving ceiling painting from French painter Marc Chagall, is simply sublime. 
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29 of 30
Enjoy Fresh Air at the Bois de Boulogne
Sizun Eye/Moment/Getty Images
  Sometimes, a little breathing room away from the stress and noise of the city is in order. When you're not up for a full day trip but wouldn't mind a little green and fresh air, head over to the Bois de Boulogne– and enormous wooded park sculpted from an old forest. 
Enormous green lawns, tree-lined walking paths, ponds inhabited by ducks and wild birds, an open-air theatre, puppet shows for kids and even an old-fashioned horceracing track (Hippodrome) await here. Pack a picnic, put on your walking shoes, bring a camera and enjoy a day away from the city– right on its very edge. 
  30 of 30
Toast Like the French at a Local Wine Bar
Owen Franken/Getty Images
As you might expect, Paris boasts a remarkable number of excellent wine bars. Go enjoy a simple glass or two at one of these laid-back bars, where you might also tuck into a plate of fragrant, creamy French cheeses or savory charcuterie. Some of those that made our list of the best also specialize in small plates that fit the definition of gourmet. 
Whether tasting a light, fresh Beaujolais Nouveau for the harvest season or trying more complex, “challenging” reds and whites from Burgundy or Bordeaux, there's something for everyone at these bars. After all, in France, wine isn't a snobby affair– it's something most people enjoy. 
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St Johns Co-Cathedral, Valetta, Malta. Photo: Alamy
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In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Grand Tour of Europe was an immersive journey across the continent undertaken by Britain's elites. It was seen as an opportunity to extend one's education by absorbing the best of Europe's art, culture and fine food, and it could entail a two- or three-year commitment to exploring the wonders of Italy, France, Austria and Germany. Whatever the duration, it was also about living the good life, taking your time and, in-between, meeting local nobility, sketching the sights and enjoying sumptuous feasts.
The tradition has vanished in its lavish original form, but Traveller is going to revive it, albeit with some tweaks. Few of us, after all, have the option to take a year or two out like the Grand Tourists of the past but then again, modern transportation allows us cover much more ground in much less time.
Our proposed Grand Tour for the modern age is designed to last about a month: long enough to feel indulgent, but short enough to ensureyou still have a life to return to back home. Our itinerary is also quite different. The Grand Tour of centuries past was designed to showcase eye-opening destinations rich in culture and history. It included places such as Paris, Venice and Rome, which these days are among the most-visited places on the planet. We have chosen a new route through Europe that takes us to dramatically different destinations, from one of Spain's most splendid Moorish cities through Russia's grandest metropolis and deep into Eastern Europe. And, instead of travelling by carriage, our tour relies on flights (although some stretches, such as Helsinki to St Petersburg, can be done by train).
Some of these cities, such as Prague, are popular destinations; others, such as Sofia, remain under-the-radar. Each one embodies a different aspect of European history and culture, and each one has plenty of wonders to admire. Most of these cities, it should be noted, deserve a longer stay than the few days we have allotted. Taken together as an itinerary, however, we hope they offer a new perspective on Europe's many glories.
DAYS 1 TO 3
VALLETTA, MALTA
Europe is crammed with cities founded by kings and queens. Cities founded by warrior monks? Not so much. In fact, Valletta is the only one we can think of. The Knights of St John, like their more famous brethren, the Knights Templar, were originally formed in the 11th century to fight in the Crusades; more than 400 years later they were still going strong. Chased from their base in Rhodes in 1530 by the Ottomans, the Knights moved to Malta and promptly built a grand city to prove their glory was undiminished.
WHAT TO DO
Valletta's steeply-sloping streets, lined with elegant sandstone buildings and surrounded by 28 kilometres of walls, are home to 320 historic monuments – a figure rivalled only by Rome and Jerusalem. Must-visits include the Grand Master's Palace, with its displays of Gobelin tapestries and medieval armour, and St John's Co-Cathedral, one of most over-the-top baroque cathedrals in Europe. Don't miss the cathedral's oratory: on display are some canvases which the grand master – who clearly had an eye for art – commissioned from a hot young artist called Caravaggio.
For the maximum Valletta experience, book into one of the boutique hotels springing up in the city's narrow townhouses. Casa Ellul offers friendly service and gorgeous views from the top floors. Cosy restaurants are tucked into townhouses and dish up local Italian-tinged dishes (rabbit is a specialty). Bookings are recommended for popular venues such as Legligin, a restaurant and wine bar.
DON'T MISS
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Malta is so compact you can squeeze the rest of its sights into a day, if necessary. Make sure you take a walk through the 1000-year-old city of Mdina, which retains a distinctly Arabic feel, and visit at least one of Malta's prehistoric sites, perhaps the necropolis at Hal Saflieni. Stop for lunch at Marsaxlokk, a pretty port town with a waterfront lined with brightly-painted wooden boats.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/malta
visitmalta.com
casaellul.com
Garden in the Alcazar of Seville, Seville, Spain Photo: imageBROKER / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 4 to 6
SEVILLE, SPAIN
Seville was one of Europe's leading cities for 500 years under Moorish rule; a beacon of learning and beauty at a time when much of Europe was in chaos. When the Castilians conquered the city in 1248, they obliterated many Moorish monuments, including the main mosque – the city's immense cathedral was built on the site, with the mosque's minaret co-opted to serve as the cathedral's bell tower – but enough of a legacy survives to make Seville a fascinating destination.
WHAT TO DO
Seville's Moorish history can be discovered in the whitewashed neighbourhoods of narrow streets that could be transplanted from North Africa, in the splendid orange trees that line its streets and, above all, in the breathtaking Alcazar. Originally built as a fort for the Caliph of Andalucia, the building – with its entrancing interiors and elegant gardens, featured in Game of Thrones as the water gardens of Dorne – has served as a royal residence for more than 1000 years and remains Seville's unmissable attraction.
In a quirky twist, having expelled the Moors, Seville's new Christian rulers were so taken by their architecture and its exquisite detailing, its arched colonnades, its fountains and its intricate tilework, that they created a new style of architecture called Mudejar, which mixed Moorish and Gothic elements. Mudejar monuments can be seen right across town, from the impressive Palacio de los Marqueses de la Algaba to the city's most sumptuous lodgings, the Hotel Alfonso XIII.
DON'T MISS
Tapas is a local tradition. Start the nightat Seville's oldest eatery, the 350-year-old El Rinconcillo, before heading to the cutting-edge Ovejas Negras, which serves inventive plates such as squid with lettuce sauce.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/spain
visitasevilla.es
hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com
elrinconcillo.es/en/home
ovejasnegrastapas.com
Strasbourg, France. Photo: Sorin Colac / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 7 TO 9
STRASBOURG, FRANCE
Strasbourg was one of the grandest cities of the Middle Ages and a stroll through its ancient streets offers a virtual open-air museum of European architecture. Highlights range from the 1000-year-old cathedral to the imposing 18th-century palaces such as the Palais Rohan and the Hotel de Hanau.
WHAT TO DO
Start with those historic streetscapes. Perched on an island with the river Ile looping around it protectively, Strasbourg's setting is as picturesque as the city itself, with its half-timbered houses, willow-lined embankments and chimney pots topped with storks' nests. If you have artistic inclinations, you might feel inspired by the example of the original Grand Tourists to make some sketches of beautifully-preserved areas, such as Petite France, formerly the tanners' quarters and now also the location of some of the city's best hotels, such as the lovely Régent Petite France.
If you prefer looking at art to making it, immerse yourself in world-class art in the city's excellent museums. Top picks include the Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain, displaying works by Rodin and Picasso; the Musée des Beaux-Arts for the masterpieces by Giotto, Botticelli and Rubens; and a magnificent collection of medieval art at the Musée de l'Oeuvre Notre-Dame.
DON'T MISS
Lovers of fine food and wine will enjoy Alsace's distinctive regional cuisine. The area's German heritage is in evidence, with choucroute (sauerkraut) and onion tart featuring heavily on local menus. There are some excellent fine dining options, including the acclaimed Au Crocodile, but for something more casual, try tarte flambée. This pizza-like flatbread is often topped with crème fraiche, onions and smoked ham. Wash it all down with some of the excellent local rieslings and gewürztraminers.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/strasbourg
otstrasbourg.fr
regent-petite-france.com
musees.strasbourg.eu
au-crocodile.com/fr
Cathedral Senate Square, Helsinki, Finland Photo: Ian Shaw / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 10 TO 13
HELSINKI, FINLAND
They don't teach much Nordic history in our schools, and you can see why. After the end of the Viking Ages, nothing much seemed to happen here for 1000 years or so until the mid-20th century, when the Nordic countries were suddenly unveiled as design powerhouses. Helsinki makes it onto this itinerary not just for its architectural highlights, but as an example of a city where good design is woven into every aspect of everyday life.
WHAT TO DO
Helsinki is packed with superb examples of design and architecture, but the locals don't make a big deal of it. Tell someone you're a fan of architect Alvar Aalto and they may recommend you visit his Finlandia Hall, a striking concert venue clad in asymmetric panels of glittering marble. Or they may send you to the local Iittala glassware store, where a number of Alto-designed vases are available. In Finland, a well-designed vase is as worthy of admiration as a monumental piece of architecture.
Nonetheless, there are some architectural masterpieces you should not miss, including the monumental train station, designed by Eliel Saarinen. The atmospheric Temppeliaukio Church is a subterranean building with rock walls and a copper-clad ceiling. Check if there are any concerts taking place here during your stay; the acoustics are terrific. The family homes of architects Alvar Aalto and Eliel Saarinen are also worth a visit. (Saarinen designed almost every element in his family home, Hvitträsk, from the tiles to the pint-sized tables and chairs for his children), while the neighbourhoods of Katajanokku and Kruunerhaken contain a magnificent collection of art nouveau buildings.
Helsinki's newest hotel is the centrally-located Hotel St George, built around a winter garden. For a memorable meal, try Restaurant Jord, the more affordable sibling of Helsinki's best restaurant, Ask. Top picks include Finnish classics such as crepes with smoked lingonberry jam and pike perch served with grilled leeks.
DON'T MISS
In Helsinki's sprawling Design District, you can discover the latest local talent alongside design giants such as Iittala and Artek.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/helsinki
myhelsinki.fi
museovirasto.fi/en
stgeorgehelsinki.com
restaurantjord.fi
Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg, Russia Photo: Sergey Borisov / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 14 TO 17
ST PETERSBURG, RUSSIA
If you enjoy imperial excess, St Petersburg, the showcase city of the Romanov dynasty, is the place to go. Some people find that Petersburg's over-the-top splendour brings out their inner revolutionary but, no matter where you stand on the politics, the beauty of this city – conjured up out of the marshland by Peter the Great – is impossible to deny.
WHAT TO DO
St Petersburg is packed with spectacular buildings, from the imperial residences to the dazzling interiors of the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood. However, it is not just monuments that are eye-catching here; in Petersburg, even the grocery stores are exercises in elegance. (Check out the Eliseyev Emporium if you don't believe us.)
St Petersburg is also a cultural heavyweight. Attending a performance at the flamboyant Mariinsky theatre, whether ballet, opera or symphony, is a must. If you have never been able to work your through any of the Russian literary classics, book a table at Café Idiot – named after the Dostoevsky book – and feast on Russian classic cuisine instead.
When it comes to accommodation, Petersburg is one of those cities where it pays to go as grand as your budget will bear. We love the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, which has an inhouse caviar bar.
DON'T MISS
Allow at least a day to explore the Hermitage Museum, where the artistic treasures on display – everything from ancient Scythian gold treasures to Rembrandts, Picassos and Matisses – are rivalled by the interiors of what was once the imperial family's Winter Palace, with its malachite columns and gilded mouldings.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/russia
visit-petersburg.ru
hermitagemuseum.org
Belmond.com/grandhotel
​idiot-spb.com/eng/
Skyline of Prague at dusk. Photo: JOHN KELLERMAN / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 18 to 20
PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
Much of the glory that is Prague was the vision of one man: Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor and Czech king, who was determined to build one of the most impressive cities on earth. He succeeded so well that, more than six centuries later, Prague still dazzles.
WHAT TO DO
There is plenty to admire in Prague's historic heart, from its towering castle and elaborate bridges to the picturesque Old Town Square. Not all of Prague's glories are ancient, however. The city remains committed to culture – perhaps not so surprising when you remember that these are the people who elected a playwright to the position of president. In addition to its remarkable collection of public sculpture (look for the avantgarde works of David Cerny), Prague has embraced modern architecture, most famously in the form of Frank Gehry's Dancing Buildings, towers that lean towards each other like tango dancers.
Maintain the historic mood with a stay at the Alchymist Grand Hotel and Spa, housed in a 16th-century palace and dripping with gilt and red velvet. For a meal with a view, book a table at the Bellevue restaurant, where you can gaze at Prague castle while enjoying elegantly-executed Bohemian fare. A more rustic alternative is the old-school U Medvidku Pub, where you can savour what may be the city's signature dish: pork with dumplings, sauerkraut and pilsener.
DON'T MISS
The city where Mozart, Dvorak, Smetana, Janacek and Mahler all wrote and performed has melodies coursing through its veins. Catch a concert at the neo-classical Rudolfinum, home to the acclaimed Czech Philharmonic; if you visit during the annual Prague Spring festival, you can also enjoy performances in a range of atmospheric venues, from churches to the St Agnes convent.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/prague
prague.eu
alchymisthotel.com
bellevuerestaurant.cz
umedvidku.cz/en
Hungarian Parliament building, Budapest. Photo: Jan Wlodarczyk / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 21 TO 23
BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
If Prague has a rival in the grandeur stakes, it would have to be Budapest, a city gifted a solid dose of glamour by those renowned urban planners, the Habsburg emperors.
WHAT TO DO
Start on the Danube's west bank in the royal quarter of Buda with the soaring gothic glory of St Matthias Church, the coronation venue for several Habsburg emperors, including the mighty Franz Joseph and the ill-fated last emperor, known in Hungary as Charles IV and in Austria as Charles I. Equally impressive is Budapest Castle, which houses the Hungarian National Gallery's superb collection of medieval, Renaissance and baroque stonework, sculptures and painting.
On the east bank, Pest's grandest monuments include the extraordinary 691-room Parliament building, the gilt-tripping Hungarian State Opera House and the lovely Gresham Palace. This beautiful building was originally built for – of all things – an insurance company; in the hands of Four Seasons, it has become one of the city's best hotels.
Budapest is not all about its monuments, however; its lovely streetscapes make this a great place to get lost. Start your explorations in the riverside Pest neighbourhood of Lipótváros and follow your feet: whichever direction you head in, you will discover grand squares, wide boulevards, and plenty of eye-catching architecture, ranging from belle epoque to art deco to Bauhaus.
DON'T MISS
Our vote for essential Budapest experience is an afternoon spent in one of its grand cafes. Take a seat in Café Gerbeaud or the Central Café, order up a glass of tokay wine and slice of cake – perhaps two, if you can't decide between the hazelnut-heavy Eszterhazy torta, or the buttercream-laden dobos torte – and know that you are enjoying the best that Budapest has to offer.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/budapest
budapest.com
fourseasons.com
gerbeaud.hu
centralkavehaz.hu
Thracian figurines, National Historical Museum, Sofia, Bulgaria. Photo: age fotostock / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 24 TO 26
SOFIA, BULGARIA
If you are asking yourself, "Sofia? What on earth can I do there?", consider yourself a victim of the Cold War. During the years that eastern Europe was locked away behind the Iron Curtain, countries such as Bulgaria slipped from our collective consciousness, which is why most of us are oblivious to Sofia's rich history and heritage.
WHAT TO DO
Among the things you probably don't know about Sofia: it has an entire Roman city buried beneath its streets. Nine thousand square metres of Roman ruins have now been unearthed, creating an open-air museum filled with ancient streets and houses, baths and basilicas.
After the Romans, Sofia's history gets complicated. There are stints of rule by the Byzantines and Ottomans, as well as not one but two Bulgarian Empires, all of which left behind mighty monuments. Some are rightly celebrated, such as the Boyana Church with its vivid, lifelike 800-year-old frescoes. Others are harder to find. Few relics of Ottoman rule survive: one is the former mosque that now houses the National Archaeological Museum, worth a visit in its own right.
Bulgaria's culinary heritage is also worth exploring. Book a table at Bagri, a contemporary restaurant showcasing traditional foods and supporting small farmers. Hotel-wise, the Grand Hotel Sofia, which has a convenient location and excellent service, is among the city's best.
DON'T MISS
It is astonishing to think that, 2000 years after they founded the city that became Sofia, you can still find traces of the long-vanished Thracian people. Take a trip out of town to Kazanlak, where you can visit a 2000-year-old beehive tomb, decorated with richly coloured frescoes that illustrate the remarkably sophisticated lifestyles enjoyed by the Thracian elite.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/bulgaria
visitsofia.bg
bagri-restaurant.bg/en
grandhotelsofia.bg
Whirling Dervishes, Istanbul, Turkey. Photo: Peter Adams Photography Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo
DAYS 27 TO 30
ISTANBUL, TURKEY
True, only half of the city lies in Europe; the far shore of Istanbul is technically part of Asia. Yet this city has played a key role in so many European empires – under various names, including Byzantium and Constantinople – that it is a must for anyone interested in history.
WHAT TO DO
Istanbul is a city that has been shaped by great men. Take, for instance, the awe-inspiring Aya Sofiya, built as the grandest church in Christendom by one of the great Byzantine emperors, Justinian, then converted into a mosque by the Ottoman sultan who conquered the city, Mehmed the Conqueror. Or take the exquisite Sulemaniye mosque, built by the mighty Suleiman the Magnificent, its interiors soaring vertically in a manner reminiscent of the most striking Gothic architecture.
Not all of Istanbul's local heroes have won a lasting place in the history books, however. Nearly everyone who visits Istanbul walks past the landmark Galata Tower; few, however, know the tower was the launching point for the 17th-century Ottoman aviator Hezarfen Ahmet Celebi, who flew across the Bosphorus in the first flight with artificial wings.
For a room close to the heart of the action, the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet takes some beating; from its terrace, guests get a ringside view of the city's most magnificent sights, including the Aya Sofiya and the Blue Mosque. Just a short walk away you will also find one of the city's best fish restaurants, Balikci Sabahattın.
DON'T MISS
The legendary wealth of the Ottoman sultans is on display at Topkapi Palace, where the exhibits include spectacular jewels, royal robes and an eclectic collection of religious relics that includes John the Baptist's hand and hairs from Muhammad's beards.
ESSENTIALS
traveller.com.au/turkey
howtoistanbul.com
fourseasons.com
FIVE MORE GRAND CITIES
KRAKOW, POLAND
Poland has an embarrassment of beautiful cities, including Gdansk and Wroclaw, but this former royal capital is particularly rich in scenic sights from the stately old town to the buzzing Kazimierz district. See krakow.pl/english/
RIGA, LATVIA
It is hard to decide which is lovelier: Riga's atmospheric old town, with its medieval streets and buildings, or the new town, which has an extraordinary collection of art nouveau architecture. See liveriga.com
MALAGA, SPAIN
There is nothing provincial about Malaga's impressive collection of museums. Highlights include the Carmen Thyssen Museum, the CAC Museum dedicated to contemporary art, an outpost of the Centre Pompidou and a museum dedicated to a local lad called Pablo Picasso. See malagaturismo.com/en
BREGENZ, AUSTRIA
It is best-known for its summertime Bregenz Festival, where the stage floats on the water, but the town of Bregenz is also worth a visit for its cutting-edge KUB museum and its packed concert calendar. See austria.info
THESSALONIKI, GREECE
In this lively city, daily life takes place amidst an astonishing collection Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman monuments. Where else would you find a magnificent Roman arch dominating the main shopping street? See thessaloniki.travel/en/
STILL GRAND AFTER ALL THESE YEARS
PARIS
Three hundred years ago, visitors came for lessons in French and fencing and to admire the works in the Louvre. Today's travellers can also enjoy a host of newer attractions, from the Centre Pompidou to Frank Gehry's Fondation Louis Vuitton. See en.parisinfo.com
VIENNA
The Habsburg empire's most splendid capital is as famous for its rich cultural calendar as its grand palaces and amazing museums. Saint Stephens Cathedral and the Hofburg and Schönbrunn Palaces were familiar to Grand Tourists; not so the MuseumsQuartier or the extraordinary Hundertwasser Haus. See wien.info
FLORENCE
Florence's historic centre has not changed much since the days of the Grand Tour, which is precisely why tourists still flock here in droves. Don't-miss sights include cathedral topped by Brunelleschi's dome, the opulent Baptistery and museums such as the Uffizi and the Galleria dell'Accademia. See firenzeturismo.it/en/
ANTWERP
Antwerp's winning combination of small-scale charm and big-city grandeur has not diminished over the centuries. Nor have the city's superb museums – including the Rubenshuis, the Rockoxhuis and the Museum Mayer Van Den Bergh – lost their ability to impress. See visitantwerpen.be/en/
DRESDEN
Since the fall of the Berlin Wall, more visitors are discovering this east German treasure. The showpiece capital of Augustus the Strong has a rich collection of baroque architecture and cultural treasures, including the rococo Zwinger and the world's largest porcelain mural, the Fürstenzug. See dresden.de/en/
from traveller.com.au
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Home is Where the Art Is
The E.U.’s architecture of international relations may be taking a beating, but one international organization at least is still building cultural ties in Europe. The Artist’s Studio Museum Network links the cottages, castles, and farmhouses that artists once used as homes and studios. The buildings now serve as museums of the artists’ domestic lives and work routines; where Monet tended his waterlilies, where Rosa Bonheur could wear work pants without a government permit, and where Beatrix Potter fed lettuce to the furry inspirations for Peter Rabbit. From Croatia to the Canary Islands, the goal of artist house museums isn’t just a history lesson—it’s a 360-degree understanding of the lifestyle and context of an artist’s work.
While some studio museums are front and center in bustling metropolises like Paris, many are tucked in far corners of the globe. When the founding Network museum, the Watts Gallery Artists’ Village, put out a call for the Network, they weren’t surprised when house museums came out of the woodwork. “Many artists seek seclusion in which to work,” says Kirsten Tambling who administers the Network. “Many of the studio museums we found are set in picturesque and inspiring, though remote, locations.”
The curators share a passion for keeping alive the soul of the artist whose home they steward, from preserving tubs of oil paints, to polishing the silverware, to asking visitors to be respectful in the crypt. “There’s a strong tradition in many studio museums of artists both building and then being buried in the estates,” says Tambling. 
We selected ten of our favorite studio museums for your next road trip through Europe – with a few suggestions for additions to the Artist’s Studio Museum Network. 
Galerija Meštrovic
Built as a summer villa for Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrovic and his family, this museum perches like a Greek temple over the sparkling Adriatic. Visitors on art pilgrimage can rent bicycles in Split and peddle the cliff trail, stopping at pebble beaches along the way. Once there, you can wander the sculpture lawns and pass through the galleries, contemplating Meštrovic’s larger than life figures, which range from serene goddesses to the tormented figure of Job asking his eternal question: “Why do bad things happen to good people?” Meštrovic was imprisoned during WWII for refusing to exhibit for the Nazi regime. Much of his life was spent in expatriation to Paris, Rome, Yugoslavia, and the United States. His sculptures, most notably his emaciated Pietà in Paris’s Notre Dame Cathedral, dot the global map and once you become a Meštrovic expert at this gallery, you’ll notice them everywhere.
Šetalište Ivana Meštrovica 46, Split, Croatia
The Galerija Meštrovic overlooks the sparkling Adriatic. Image courtesy of Zoran Alajbeg © Muzeji Ivana Meštrovića.
Hortamuseum
The Hortamuseum isn’t just for fans of the Baron Victor Horta’s architecture. It’s a hub for lovers of the organic whimsy of the art nouveau style. From the doorbell to the dishware, the aesthetics of art nouveau invade the home of the Belgium architect. Horta’s self-designed house presents the leaps and bounds in functional capacity that the Industrial Revolution meant for iron and glasswork. There are few straight lines at the Hortamuseum. Botanical figures blossom from every corner and grow into load-bearing architecture. Voluptuous windows suffuse light. Wall-paintings and mosaic are in petal-like interplay. Parade up and down the stairs and into the tiled dining room, which can be rented for private dinner parties. 
25, rue Américaine, Saint-Gilles, Brussels, Belgium
Château de By, studio of Rosa Bonheur
It shouldn’t take the full American Indian regalia presented by her friend Buffalo Bill Cody and the walls of taxidermy animal heads displayed at the Rosa Bonheur studio to tell you that this painter was a badass. Bonheur is famous for her action-packed landscapes populated with powerful animals. To learn to paint her subjects, she frequented farms, horse markets, and slaughterhouses, inspiring generations of women artists with her no-shits-given attitude and her internationally-renowned career. When Bonheur moved from painting horses to lions, she ordered several of the large cats for her castle estate at Fontainebleau. There are no lions at Fontainebleau now, but a tour of Bonheur’s former studio is a dose in the robust energy of a woman who took a close-minded society by the scruff of the neck and shook it until it awarded her all the top honors the 19th century had. It’s a little off the beaten track to make the forty-minute trip from Paris. But hey! If Bonheur could go off the beaten track, so can you.
Chateau de Rosa Bonheur, 12 rue Rosa Bonheur, Thomery-By, Fontainebleau, France
Taxidermy animal heads and antlers are displayed alongside paintings at the Rosa Bonheur studio.
Red House
William Morris fans sometimes make strange bedfellows – they include design and decorative arts aficionados, wallpaper lovers, architecture buffs, socialists, Medievalists, and art historians. If Morris was a midwife to the birth of the Arts and Crafts Movement, Red House is the birthplace. Morris’s home was a nerve center for a fellowship of Pre-Raphaelite thinkers, writers, and painters whom Morris hosted in his Gothic Revival dining room. The house manifests Morris’s conception that modern manufacturing had corrupted the decorative object and that home décor should be made by guild-style artisans and handcraftsmen. In addition to Arthurian inspired tapestries and Gothic stained glass, you can see the origins of Morris’s design company: Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co., a furnishing and decorative arts manufacturer founded on the principles Morris’s circle and developed at Red House. While the company disbanded in the early months of World War II, Morris’s focus on the handcrafted and the artisan has certainly seen a resurgence in the early 20th century.
Red House Lane, Bexleyheath, London, United Kingdom
Foundation Claude Monet
This museum in Monet’s country home in Giverny is for all those who ever wanted to live in a painting. The house, with its floor to ceiling windows thrown open to the flower gardens, makes you realize that Monet’s passion was the outdoors. En plein air, or outdoor painting, may be a staple of the vacation watercolor workshop now, but back in the day, Monet’s move to turn the garden into his studio was revolutionary. Don’t leave without strolling through the gardens, where you can see the Giverny waterlilies that Monet made famous around the world.
84 rue Claude Monet, 27620 Giverny, France
The Monet Museum’s kitchen windows open onto the vegetable and water gardens. Image courtesy of Fondation Claude Monet-Giverny/Droits réservés.
Hill Top
Hill Top is a charming country cottage where Beatrix Potter wrote and illustrated more books in the vein of The Tale of Peter Rabbit. Her affection for farm life as a retreat from London suffuses the whole property, from the parlor, to the bedrooms, to the vegetable garden. From dust pans to dolls houses, the building is stuffed with the accoutrement of Potter and her stories. The staff frequently rearranges the furniture–as Potter often did when she magpie-like added new trinkets and trophies to her décor. The staff is knowledgeable, but the only guide you need is The Tale of Samuel Whiskers; many of the scenes are recognizably set in the different rooms of Hill Top. When you’re through, hop next door to the Tower Bank Arms for a drink before the fire. The pub was around in Potter’s day, and it makes a cameo in The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck.
Near Sawrey, Ambleside, Cumbria, United Kingdom
Halosenniemi Museum
If your dream house is a log cabin by a lake, the museum dedicated to Finnish painter Pekka Halonen might be the place for you. Halonen built the timber villa with his brother, allowing him to self-design the two-story studio he had seen while studying in Paris. From here, alongside his eight children, Halonen painted many works that contributed to the Golden Age of Finnish painting. Visitors can stroll down to the lake to watch the ice-skaters or tramp through the forest that inspired Halonen’s works. Halosenniemi Museum is a quick twenty-minute car ride from the airport – perfect if you have a layover in Helsinki and a few hours to kill.
Halosenniementie 4-6, Tuusula, Finland
Halonen designed the two-story studio after ones he’d seen in Paris. Image courtesy of Museokuva / Tuusula Art Museum.
Camille Claudel Museum
Until 2016, it was a cruel irony that, to see some of the best work by a sculptor whose artistic legacy has been overshadowed by her relationship to Auguste Rodin, one had to visit a museum with his name on it. But recently, a museum dedicated to Camille Claudel opened in her former childhood home. Claudel never gained prominence in her own time. Many of her onyx and bronze sculptures were considered too erotic by her contemporaries. Claudel herself destroyed much of her own work out of paranoia that her ideas would be stolen. Sadly, the decades it took for Claudel’s star to rise from obscurity means that the interior of the house museum in Nogent-sur-Seine was not preserved. However, the exterior has been restored and the interior is the best collection of Claudel work in the world.
10 Rue Gustave Flaubert, Nogent-sur-Seine, France
575 Wandsworth Road
The Kenyan poet Khadambi Asalache bought this Georgian townhouse in 1981 and almost immediately began decorating every inch with hand-cut salvaged pine. Several homes on this list might be called a ‘gesamtkunstwerk’—a total artwork—but 575 Wandsworth Road beats everyone in square inches of handmade décor. Some art critics also use the home as an example of ‘horror vacui’ or the fear of empty spaces. Figurines and geometric forms dance along the walls, lintels and mantles. Perhaps not surprising, given his love of latticework, Asalache’s life partner was basketmaker Susie Thomson. The museum has recently launched a composer in residence program, which will interpret the house carvings into music. 
575 Wandsworth Road, Lambeth, London, United Kingdom
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Read One Shot (Jack Reacher #9)(17) online free by Lee Child
One Shot (Jack Reacher #9)(17) Author: Lee Child
Some of the sheds still had faded names on them. McGinty Dry Goods. Allentown Seed Company. Parker Supply. Reacher strolled the three hundred yards and looked at all of them. They were still standing, strong and square. Ripe for renovation, he guessed. A city that put an ornamental pool with a fountain in a public plaza would spruce up the waterfront. It was inevitable. There was construction all over town. It would move south. They would give someone tax breaks to open a riverside cafe. Maybe a bar. Maybe with live music, Thursday through Saturday. Maybe with a little museum laying out the history of the river trade.
He turned to walk back and came face-to-face with Helen Rodin.
"You're not such a hard man to find," she said.
"Evidently," he said.
"Tourists always come to the docks."
She was carrying a lawyer-size briefcase.
"Can I buy you lunch?" she said.
She walked him back north to the edge of the new gentrification. In the space of a single dug-up block the city changed from old and worn to new and repainted. Stores changed from dusty mom-and-pop places with displays of vacuum cleaner bags and washing machine hoses to new establishments showing off spotlit hundred-dollar dresses. And shoes, and four-dollar lattes, and things made of titanium. They walked past a few such places and then Helen Rodin led him into an eatery. It was the kind of place he had seen before. It was the kind of... Source from: Read One Shot (Jack Reacher #9)(17) online free by Lee Child
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