Burmese Python
Enclosure:
Babies can be okay in a 10 gallon (juveniles are good in 50 gallon), but adults will need 8 x 4 ft minimum and bigger is always better
The enclosure should have roughly the floor space equal to four to six times the area of the snake itself when it’s in a flat coil.
You need to look for enclosures specifically designed for larger snakes and you may need to have them custom made since adult females need 72 x 36 inches usually at full size
Aspen shavings, orchid bark, and newspapers are easy substrates to use and clean up. The key is to keep things simple because they can get messy!
They need to have a large cave in their enclosure to feels secure, but having large branches or pieces of wood can also be enriching to them
Ideal temperature is to be between 85-90 F, but at night it can drop to 80 F and a basking area around 90 F should be good too. Heat can be provided by mats/pads, lamps, and lights. UV is not required, but is beneficial as well and having a day and night cycle is also very beneficial.
Make sure it is secure because all snake are escapes artists
They will need a water dish large enough for them to soak in and fresh water should be provided daily. Misting once daily also helps with shedding, but you can do 2-3 times a day if in a shed cycle (50-60% humidity)
Do not house 2 females or 2 males together and they do great on their own. You can house a male and a female together, but they may breed and you will need enough space accordingly
Diet/feeding habits:
Hatchlings to 4 feet long need to eat every 3-4 days
4 feet to maturity (10 ft females, 8 ft males) they need to eat every 5-7 days
From 3 years on they need to be fed once every 10 days, but it may need to be adjusted depending on weight and appearance
They start off eating appropriate sized mouse, then continue to move up to rats and eventually rabbits, but they just need to be a good size for them
They will also eat chicken, but this should not be fed often as it puts weight on them quickly and should only be used for ones that are underweight/picky
You may have to use a buffer like a wooden board and snake hooks/tongs when removing uneaten food or when feeding the snake just to be on the safe side
Feed often enough to maintain optimum body condition; you should not be able to see the snake's ribs. It's essential to be careful not to overfeed them, or you will end up with an obese snake. Signs your snake may be overweight include noticeable scale separation, sunken spine, or "fat wrinkles."
Age identification:
Lifespan is usually a 15-20 years, but some almost live to 30 years
Physical traits:
Hatchlings are typically around 20 inches long and weight 4 ounces, but adults can weigh over 200 pounds
Females usually get bigger than the males and are around 13-18 feet long at adult size, but some can get more than 20 feet long and even to 40 feet
Males usually get to be 8-14 feet long, but have been known to reach 17 feet sometimes
There are many morphs including: Albino, patternless/green, labyrinth, granite
There is a dwarf variety, but they are not as commonly known or sold. The dwarf morph usually gets around 5-7 feet total in adult size
Juvenile Burmese Pythons will shed quite often as they grow quickly. This is completely natural and does not harm the snake in any way. Older snakes will shed less frequently but will continue to do so for the duration of their life.
They lay about 20-80 eggs, but I will not be getting into breeding for them here so your own research is needed if you desire to breed burmese pythons
Personality:
Very food driven as well, but not as much as reticulated pythons
They are big, gentle, and sometimes pretty dumb giants and are very docile most times
Some are a bit more nippy, but they usually calm down. If you need them being docile you need to be looking for that with initial choosing for the python though
They are exceptional swimmers and can stay submerged for up to half an hour without surfacing for air.
They are mainly a ground dwelling snake but juveniles will spend much of their time in the trees.
Females can get protective over eggs and nippy during breeding season
If your snake goes on an eating strike, it is not necessarily an illness; some snakes do not eat during seasonal changes, before shedding, or if their cage is not warm enough.
Health concerns:
Respiratory issues can occur from their enclosure being too humid or cold; wheezing and secreting a foamy substance from the mouth are signs of this. Blisters and scale rot are also caused by too much humidity
Inclusion body disease (IBD) which is not harmful to humans, but it is to snakes and most common carriers are in the boa constrictor family. IBD is marked with symptoms of tremors, seizures, vision loss, loss of tongue control, and the inability to right itself when turned upside down (a condition called “stargazing syndrome”).
Mites and other parasites can also affect pythons and can sometimes carry IBD as well, so always quarantine your snakes before introducing them in the same room or enclosure to ensure they’re healthy
Burmese pythons are the main species affected by Burmese Disease (BD), but it has also been seen in Borneo short-tailed pythons, African rock, and blood pythons. BD is a slow, progressive disease characterized by recurring bouts of respiratory infections like pneumonia and involvement of opportunistic bacteria
After your snake has finished shedding, do a quick examination to ensure there is no stuck shed. Common areas for stuck shed include around the eyes and the tail. Stuck shed can be easily removed by giving your snake a warm bath. During the bath the stuck shed can be easily rubbed away.
Handlings:
Handling the hatchlings from a young age gets them to calm down quickly
Make sure to have another person around while handling because they do not know their own strength sometimes and don’t let them wrap around neck and chest areas.
If you do not at least regularly handle them they will only associate you with food and may strike whenever you open their cage, so do handlings to prevent this
Don’t handle it a few hours before and 2 days after feeding
Avoid touching the top of its head. Unless it knows and trusts you, touching the top of the head will cause it to jerk away from the touch. The fast movement of the snake tends to scare a lot of new snake owners. This is called being "head shy." A lot of pythons will get over it with gentle handling.
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Self-portrait (is it hyphenated ?)
So this started out as an exercise where I was drawing what I felt I looked like and how I perceive myself and then I realized I was being way too harsh on myself because what I was actually drawing was my insecurities
I was seeing my insecurities physically manifested on a realistic drawing of myself and seeing them I realized I didn’t actually look like that and that I needed to be more honest with myself
And the more I corrected the image the more the drawing looked like my real self until the drawing looked more like me and in turn I started feeling better about myself because I realized I didn’t actually look the way I see myself in the mirror , I didn’t actually reflect the insecurities I was projecting onto my image and I was actually not being kind to myself.
But now seeing the drawing as he is now he looks exactly like me. (and yes I put a mask on him but there’s a version w/o it haha )
I just have to be more kind to myself and realize I’m not the insecurities I feel but I am the version of myself that deserves the kindness I give to others.
It was just so interesting and profound that I draw attractive characters and when it came time to drawing myself I was so harsh only to realize it still looked nothing like me and only how I felt I looked, all my “flaws” and then I started to love my image and started to put the happy eyes full of light and laughs and my hair which is longer darker and less fluffy , my skin which while has moles or different pigmented areas are ts as visible as I thought or my smile lines or “wrinkles” or my dark circles or hooded eyes , I’m not the version I saw myself as , I was actually closer to the “idealized” version of myself the ones I draw in my comics and Fanart.
I had to learn the hard way and maybe that’s a good thing but I learned that I am not my flaws and now I know that maybe everyone feels that to an extent and that maybe everyone should try it and see that they too are not their flaws or their insecurities.
Learning to be kinder to myself and learning to love my reflection have been hard but in doing this I think I gained a little more confidence and content ness with myself and I just wanted to share that in hopes someone else could maybe feel better about themselves. ✨🤍✨
Love yourself and be kind to you and your reflection. ✨🤍✨🪞✨🪞✨🪞✨🤍✨
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Kenyan Sand Boa
Enclosure:
A 20 gallon can house an adult, but bigger is better and must have a secure lid
Substrates can be sand, aspen shavings, coconut mulch, or puppy pads.
They do better being housed alone, but if you want breeding then one male and one female can be housed or 2 females can be housed together. Never 2 males though.
Substrate needs to be deep enough so they can burrow (2-3 inches)
They need enrichment and hides such as caves, hollow logs, branches, etc. (nothing heavy!) but make sure there’s enough burrowing room too
There should be a heating pad underneath them and the temperature should be 80-85 degrees F on the hotter side. It can drop to the 70s in the night
Humidity should be 20% or less and should only be increased when shedding. They love low humidity
UVB is not needed (but beneficial), but a day and night cycle is to avoid stress
A shallow water dish is needed for them with clean water
Water dish needs to be cleaned whenever dirty or every other day
Spot clean daily and clean entirely every 2 weeks
Diet/Feeding habits:
They are carnivores and constrictors so they may try to constrict their prey
Juveniles need to be fed pinky mice every 5 days
Male adults eat one fuzzy mouse every 2 weeks.
Female adults eat a jumbo mouse once a week
Dust all their food with calcium powder
Most times they will constrict their food, then abandon it during shed so just don’t feed during shed
Age identification:
Their average lifespan is about 20 years, but some live past 30 years
Physical traits:
They typically have dark orange scales with black splotches, but morphs do vary
Their eyes are between the top and sides of their head because they are a burrowing species
Females are larger and grow to about 2-3 feet while males are about 20 inches max
Not a climbing species, but stronger than you think
Humidity is only needed for shedding and juveniles shed more
Constricters
Personality:
Escape artists and clever!
Terrestrial and burrowing species
They are docile
Can get stressed easily
Nocturnal
Females are opportunistic eaters while males are not. Ambush predators.
They would rather squirm than bite if frightened
Health concerns:
They may accidentally ingest substrate as they constrict their prey, so if this happens feed them in a different area
Scale rot is caused by too high of a substrate and environment for them, keep it dry
Mouth rot is caused by a dirty environment and is marked by white around the mouth, redness, and wheezing
Handling:
Because of their stress levels, they may bite but never enough to truly hurt
When handling at small periods of time when younger, then they will be better used to it when adults
Be sure to hold over a soft surface because they may squirm at first
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