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nevereclipse · 7 months

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Harvey Specter – Clothing + Costume Design in Suits

So, a couple days ago, I made a post about this essay, and I've gotten a lot of requests to drop it, so... here it is.

Please be aware, this is decidedly NOT edited.

Harvey Specter is a pivotal character in the 2011 legal drama Suits. He often describes himself as the “best closer in [New York]” and is Jessica Pearson’s (the managing partner of Pearson Hardman, as of the Pilot episode) right hand man. During the shows Pilot, he is promoted from Junior Partner to Senior Partner, causing him to hire Mike Ross, a young, fraudulent attorney as his associate, creating the overarching plot of the show. Throughout the show, particularly in earlier seasons, Harvey is shown to be unfeeling and cold, constantly preaching about how he has no emotions, and, “…doesn’t care about [his] clients.” However, as the show progresses and his character develops, it’s eventually shown that he does care deeply about, “…the people [he] works with… the people [he] works for and… every one of [his] clients.” (As described by Jessica Pearson, during the Season 2 mock trial.)

In the early episodes of the show, Harvey frequently lectures Mike about the importance of dressing well and maintaining a respectable appearance. He insists that Mike buys some new suits before he begins working with Harvey at Pearson Hardman, saying that, “…people respond to the way [they] are dressed,” and that it is therefore important for them to always be dressed well. When Mike says that this suggests Harvey cares about him, he denies it, saying that Mike is simply a reflection of Harvey, and he, “…absolutely [cares] about [himself.]” Due to Harvey’s relentless pushing, Mike eventually gives in and buys new suits. However, the important of clothing in the show, is far from over, particularly in relation to Harvey’s character. Throughout the shows nine seasons, clothing is used to show Harvey’s relationships and emotional connections with other characters. This is demonstrated through how casual his clothing is, how ‘professional’ his attire, even down to the colour of his clothing. This is particularly obvious when looking at the characters of Zoe Lawford, Dana “Scottie” Scott, Dr Paula Agard, Mike Ross, and Donna Paulsen.

Zoe Lawford:

Zoe Lawford was Harvey’s first main love interest in the show. She worked at Pearson Hardman while Harvey was still and associate, where she worked in escrow and tax law. The pair developed feelings for each other, but ultimately nothing came of the relationship. However, in season 2 of Suits, Zoe is reintroduced as outside council during the Tanner lawsuit. Harvey convinces Jessica to hire her, despite Jessica being initially against the idea. As Zoe is Harvey’s first serious love interest, she is also one of the earliest examples of Harvey letting down his walls and showing emotionally vulnerability. Zoe’s character introduction takes place at a bar, during episode 7 of season 2. She and Harvey are playing pool together at said bar. During this scene, Harvey tries to recruit Zoe to come represent Pearson Hardman in the Tanner suit. Harvey is shown to be wearing a black crew neck top and dark jeans. This reveals the fact that Harvey already has an emotional connection with Zoe, due to their extensive romantic history. Both the casual attire and the dark/black colouring of Harvey’s outfit highlights the fact that he trusts Zoe. Additionally, Harvey is seeking Zoe out in a time of vulnerability, as he needs help with the Tanner suit, making the lack of a suit (Harvey’s ‘armour’) particularly important.

Later in the season, Harvey and Zoe go on two dates. On the first date, Harvey arrives at Zoe’s apartment wearing a black suit jacket, and a button up shirt. However, unlike his usual formal attire, he isn’t wearing a tie, and the first few buttons are undone. This creates a more casual outfit, demonstrating Harvey’s trust in Zoe, and how he feels comfortable being more ‘relaxed’ around her. This is the first time that Harvey and Zoe sleep together, which is a major step for their relationship, as Harvey had been angling to sleep with her since she worked at the firm years ago. On this date, Harvey also meets Zoe’s niece, and ends up spending a significant amount of time with her in the evening. While this was an emotionally significant moment for Harvey, it is not the most important event in his relationship with Zoe, which is highlighted by the contrast in Harvey’s outfit between this date and his attempted second one.

Only a few days after their first date, Harvey once again shows up at Zoe’s apartment. This date, however, does not end as successfully as the last one. Harvey arrives with the intention of taking Zoe away on a weekend trip to his cabin in the Berkshires, however, she rejects him. Her brother is dying of cancer, and she must take over care of his kid, whom Harvey met on their previous date. Unfortunately, due to this, the relationship doesn’t progress past this. During this interaction, Harvey is once again wearing a partially undone button up shirt, however this one is made of a dark grey linen. He is also wearing an open black jacket, made of what looks like denim. This outfit is remarkably similar to the one he wore on the last date with the main difference being that it’s made of different materials. This reveals how, while both events are significant to Harvey and Zoe’s relationship, this one has a larger effect on Harvey himself. The outfit also highlights the lack of boundaries Harvey is setting between himself and Zoe and is showing the trust he is putting in her. Furthermore, Zoe’s rejection is an emotionally charged moment which upsets Harvey immensely. His clothing choices are used to show his emotional connection to Zoe, and further highlight the vulnerability his is showing by both engaging with her niece, and inviting her to go away with him, which ultimately ends in heartbreak.

Dana “Scottie” Scott:

Dana “Scottie” Scott is Harvey’s next significant love interest. While she is introduced prior to Zoe, she doesn’t become a major interest until season 3. Scottie and Harvey were in the same class at Harvard Law where Harvey was 5th in his class, and Scottie was 1st. Due to this, throughout the show, they have an intense rivalry. Whenever the pair are working on the same suit, they have a rivals-with-benefits arrangement, something that started while they were still at Harvard. Scottie’s character is introduced in season 1, where she is the opposing council on a merger Harvey is working on. During her introduction, Harvey is seen to be wearing a black suit jacket, which is buttoned up. The black jacket indicates that he and Scottie have some history, and that there is already an emotional connection between them. However, the buttoned-up jacket can be considered a physical representation of Harvey’s refusal to emotionally open up to Scottie and keep their relationship purely physical and professional.

Scottie has been in love with Harvey since they were in law school together, something Harvey only realizes when Donna Paulsen, his secretary, outright tells him. When Scottie is reintroduced in Season 3, during the Pearson Darby merger, it is as a major love interest. When the Pearson Darby merger is dissolved, and replaced by Pearson Specter, Scottie is set to return to London, where she worked previously. However, Harvey, having realized and accepted that his is interested in her in a romantic way, as opposed to just physically, tries to get her to stay in Manhattan and work for him at Pearson Specter. He tells Scottie that, “…[he] wants [her] in [his] life,” and all but begs her to stay with him. During this pivotal conversation, Harvey is wearing a partially unbuttoned shirt, with the sleeves rolled up. It also takes place in his kitchen, adding another layer of emotional intimacy. The fact that Harvey is still in ‘professional’ attire further emphasizes how he, while breaking down some of his walls for Scottie, is still barricading himself to a degree. Nevertheless, this is still an important moment for Scottie and Harvey’s relationship and shows Harvey in a very emotionally vulnerable position.

Further into the relationship, Scottie and Harvey start having issues, because Harvey isn’t opening up to Scottie emotionally (a common theme in his relationships) and isn’t telling her the things she wants to know. During a particularly emotional moment, Scottie begs Harvey to start opening up to her, telling him that, “…[they] need to start being honest with each other,” and telling each other everything. Despite his protests, and the fact that he can’t tell Scottie about Mike’s fraud, Harvey promises that he will start opening up emotionally, and being honest with Scottie. During this encounter, Harvey is wearing a simple grey tee shirt. This is easily the most casual outfit Harvey is shown in for the entirety of season 3, which demonstrates how this is an incredibly important moment in Harvey and Scotties relationship.

Eventually, however, Scottie and Harvey’s relationship comes to an emotionally devastating end. Scottie, refusing to continue to be with Harvey when he is hiding things from her and not opening up to her, decides to leave both Harvey and Pearson Specter. Harvey, while knowing he won’t be able to change her mind, decides to tell her the truth about Mike, as his secret has been a key factor in the failure of Scottie and Harvey’s relationship. During this scene, Harvey is wearing a black suit and tie, with the jacket buttoned up. Black, being the colour of emotional intimacy in Harvey’s wardrobe, showcases how he is trying to tell Scottie the truth in a last-ditch attempt to get her to stay. He even goes to far as to tell her that he’s, “…tired of lying to the people [he loves].” Similarly, when Harvey talks to Scottie for the first time after their breakup for the first time, he is wearing practically the same suit. This highlights how his interaction with Scottie is emotionally charged, and Harvey is particularly vulnerable, as he is coming to Scottie to desperately request her help.

Dr Paula Agard:

Dr Paula Agard is both Harvey’s therapist during season 5, and his primary love interest in season 7. Harvey initially starts seeing her when he begins having panic attacks after Donna leaves his desk to go and work for Louis. She is prominently featured during season 5 as a clinical psychiatrist and talk therapist, and later returned to the show as a love interest in season 7. While she is ultimately helpful to helping Harvey overcome his panic attacks, and is a significant factor in his reconciliation with his mother, he ultimately stopped seeing her during season 6, presumably due to Mike’s trial and prison sentence.

The first time Paula is introduced is also one of the first times Harvey is shown to have a panic attack. After speaking with Donna, and all but receiving confirmation that she wouldn’t be leaving Louis and returning to him, he has a panic attack. Interspersed throughout this attack, are scenes of Harvey and Paula discussing it, and talking about what exactly caused it. During this scene, Harvey is being very open with Paula as he described the attack. He relates it to, “…feeling like [he] was under water,” and that he, “…couldn’t breathe,” and, “…couldn’t think.” As he discusses this, Harvey is wearing a dark black three-piece suit. The dark black represents Harvey’s emotional connection to Paula, which, when paired with the unbuttoned/open suit jacket, demonstrates how he is willing to open up emotionally to her. While there are more occasions of this occurring during Harvey’s time as a patient of Dr. Agard’s, I am going to focus further on his romantic relationship with her in season 7.

The season 7 opening shows Harvey arriving at Paula’s house in an expensive car and asking her out on a date. While Paula is originally opposed to the idea, Harvey manages to convince her. He gives her a massive speech about how he has changed – he’s, “…reconnected with [his] mum… gotten [his] old associate back, and… became Managing Partner of [his] firm.” This speech is an important moment in their relationship, as it shows Paula how Harvey has emotionally matured since they last met, and that he is willing to be vulnerable around her, something he struggled with in his past two significant relationships. Whilst this is happening, Harvey again wears a black suit, further showcasing the use of black to show emotional vulnerability and trust in Harvey’s relationships.

Additionally, Paula is the first of Harvey’s romantic partners who he introduces to his mother. After his reconciliation with his mother, Harvey invites her to join him and Paula for dinner. This is an incredibly important moment for Harvey, as we are led to believe that Paula is the only romantic partner so far that Harvey has introduced to his mother. In this scene, Harvey once again wears a black suit, one that is immensely similar to the suit he wears when he breaks things off with Paula only a week or so later. Both suits have both black jackets and ties. The most significant difference between the suits, is that while at dinner, Harvey leaves his suit jacket unbuttoned, indicating that he is opening himself up to both Paula and his mother. Contrastingly, when Harvey breaks up with Paula, his jacket is buttoned up, showing that, through ending their relationship, he is closing himself off from her in any emotional or intimate capacity.

Finally, between these moments, Paula confronts Harvey about his relationship with Donna. During the dinner, Harvey’s mother thanked Paula for being the ultimate reason that Harvey chose reconciliation with her, not realizing that it was actually Donna who caused this. Due to her own traumas from past relationships, Paula confronted Harvey about this, and told him that he would need to choose between having her in his life, or having Donna. This conversation takes place almost directly after the dinner with Harvey’s mother. Harvey, interestingly, is the one who initiates this conversation, wishing to reassure Paula of the fact that, “… [she was] the special woman in [his] life now.” During this scene, Harvey has changed out of his black suit into a simple black sleep shirt. This shirt is remarkably similar to the one he wears during his ‘honesty conversation’ with Scottie, although this shirt is darker. Again, it represents how he is laying himself completely bare for Paula, and opening himself up to her emotionally in a way that he wouldn’t usually.

Mike Ross:

Mike Ross, a character almost as pivotal as Harvey himself. The premise of the entire show relies on Harvey and Mike’s relationship, and immediate connection with each other. Without their connection, Harvey would never have hired Mike whilst knowing he was a fraud, and there would be no show. While the pair never have an explicitly stated romance, they clearly share an extremely deep emotional connection, which could easily be seen as romantic. The first time Mike and Harvey meet, during the Pilot episode, Harvey is seen to be wearing a black suit. It’s extremely uncommon for Harvey to be wearing black when he first meets a character, as it is usually used to show his emotional connection to that person. This only serves to highlight the immediate and vital connection that Mike and Harvey have, which is drastically important to the show’s existence.

A significant moment in Mike and Harvey's relationship is when Harvey goes to Mike's apartment after his grandmother dies. The pair proceeds to get high together, and Harvey opens up to Mike about his childhood, and his relationship with his mother. This is a massive step for Harvey, as he usually is very secretive about his childhood, especially in regard to his mother and her infidelity. In this moment, Harvey is wearing a black suit jacket and a grey tie. The black jacket is unbuttoned and sitting open, representing Harvey’s openness and willingness to share personal information with Mike. Additionally, his tie is pulled loose, a noticeable difference to how put-together he usually is. Wearing or being seen in casual clothing, or simply taking off the ‘armor’ of his suits, is a significant indicator that Harvey has an emotional connection with someone and that he trusts them. Harvey’s unbuttoned jacket and undone tie reveal the deep trust that he has in Mike, even at such an early stage in their relationship.

During their time working together, Harvey and Mike fight frequently. Perhaps the most significant fight they have is when Mike ‘betrays’ Harvey after Jessica blackmails him. This ends with Harvey firing Mike, and all but saying that he’s dead to him. After this fight, Mike confronts Harvey in the lobby of Pearson Hardman. Harvey yells at Mike, expressing his hurt and betrayal as he tells him that he should’ve come to him about the threat. He declares that if anyone, “…comes at [him] with any threat at all,” he should tell Harvey, because “…that’s what goddamn loyalty is.” During this confrontation, Harvey is wearing a black suit jacket and tie. The jacket is buttoned up, effectively barricading Harvey from being emotionally vulnerable, or trusting of Mike. However, the dark colour suggests that there is still an emotional connection there, and that this is an important moment for both Harvey, and his relationship with Mike. Similarly, when Mike tells Harvey he’s leaving him to go work for Jonathan Sidwell, Harvey is wearing an almost identical suit. Harvey is visibly upset by this news, and the buttoned-up suit jacket can be seen as a physical representation of his attempt to ignore the pain he is in, due to Mike’s leaving. Additionally, during the entire showtime where Mike works at Sidwell Investment Group, Harvey isn't seen in casual clothes, a clear representation of the damage done to their relationship when Mike leaves Pearson Specter.

After finding out that Rachel cheated on him, Mike went to Harvey’s condo, seeking comfort. When Mike shows up, Harvey is wearing an untucked, partially unbuttoned shirt, and black trousers. The casual outfit demonstrates the connection between Mike and Harvey, as Harvey is the person Mike immediately went to when he needed support. Harvey is obviously trying to help Mike, and he uses their emotional connection to do so, which is shown through his clothing. Additionally, the next day, when Harvey is comforting Mike, and giving him advice on how to deal with the Rachel situation, he wears a black tie. During this scene, Harvey suggests that Mike goes home to Rachel, essentially closing himself off slightly from Mike, hence the grey suit. However, he ensures Mike that he can stay with him for longer if he needs, showing that he still wishes to help and comfort Mike, hence the dark black tie.

Mike going to prison is one of the most emotionally devastating things to happen to Harvey in the shows duration. During Mike's trial and the time he spent in jail, Harvey started having panic attacks again, something he had only been having while Donna had been working at Louis's desk. Mike's arrest sends Harvey into a desperate spiral of trying to keep him out of prison, and he is devastated when he realizes he 'failed' to do so, after Mike sacrificed himself. During one scene, Harvey tells Donna that Mike going to prison is, "…all [his] goddamn fault." As he speaks, he is in near tears and obviously distressed. In that moment, he is wearing a dark, unbuttoned black suit jacket, showing the emotional connection he has with both Mike and Donna. His shirt is also partially unbuttoned, which, paired with the unbuttoned jacket, demonstrates how he is opening himself up to the devastating emotions he's feeling in response to Mike's trip to prison. Finally, both Harvey's suits when he takes Mike to prison, and when he gets out, are all black, worn buttoned up to shield himself from the pain of losing what is probably the most important person in his life.

Donna Paulsen:

Donna Paulsen is Harvey’s final love interest. The pair met when Harvey was still working at the DA’s office, and Donna was still an aspiring actress. She quickly became one of the people Harvey trusted most, and has had a significant effect on his life, whether that be by simply helping him understand his emotions, or by urging him to reconnect with his mother. Harvey has gone so far as to say that he, “…can’t be [himself] without [her],” and refused to return to Gordon, Shmidt and Van Dyke (as it was known then) without Donna joining him. The pair has many ups and downs throughout the show, including Donna leaving Harvey to go work for Louis, Donna watching Harvey flit through lovers and partners and countless times where one has put themselves on the line for the other.

Throughout their time together at the DAs office, it is no secret that Harvey and Donna constantly flirt. Despite this, Donna refuses Harvey’s attempts to progress their relationship past flirting, due to the fact that she won’t sleep with someone she works with. Even later in the show, Donna tells Rachel Zane that once you cross that boundary, “…you can never go back.” However, in the brief moment between when Harvey leaves the DAs office and returns to Gordon, Shmidt and Van Dyke, he and Donna do sleep together. Harvey shows up to Donna’s apartment wearing with a white, partially unbuttoned shirt (with black pinstripes – noticeably very similar to the suit he wears in the Pilot) and a black suit jacket. While, for Harvey, “a serial womanizer” sex isn’t necessarily an emotional thing, it is still an important step in his relationship with Donna, one that he finds it near impossible to come back from.

When Donna returns to work for Harvey at Gordon, Schmidt, and Van Dyke, they vow that what happened “that night” can never happen again. However, Harvey never truly recovers from his feelings for Donna, only falling for her deeper. After a scare where Donna almost ended up in jail, she and Harvey spend time at her apartment together. Harvey opens up to Donna about how he doesn’t care if anyone loses faith in him, but, “…with [her] it’s different.” Right before he leaves, he tells Donna that he loves her. This is one of the few times in the show that Harvey has explicitly stated to a love interest that he loves them. While this is happening, Harvey is wearing a black three-piece suit, however, the suit jacket is removed, leaving only the vest and tie. Interestingly, for that entire episode, Harvey is shown almost exclusively in black, or mostly black suits. This is a clear demonstration of Harvey’s emotional connection with Donna, and how much he values having her in his life. Interestingly, in the scene where Harvey confesses his love for Donna, she is also wearing all black, in the same fashion as Harvey. This further demonstrates that the pair have an unbreakable bond, and that their emotional connection is reflected and shared equally.

However, due to his unwillingness to commit, Donna essentially rebuts Harvey, and leaves his desk to go work as Louis’s secretary. This triggers Harvey to start having panic attacks (and eventually see a psychiatrist) and leaves him feeling incredibly betrayed. During the moment where Donna informs Harvey of her decision to leave his desk, Harvey again wears an all-black suit, including a black pocket square. While at the start of the scene, Harvey is open and receptive to Donna, shown through his suit jacket being unbuttoned, when she tells him that she’s leaving him, he quickly fastens the jacket, highlighting his immediate desire to close himself off to her, because of this perceived “betrayal.”

Interestingly, the night Harvey finally makes the decision to commit himself to Donna, permanently, he isn’t wearing all black, instead he wears a dark grey suit with only a black tie. While his suit jacket is still unbuttoned (and he doesn’t stay in the suit for long) it is interesting to note the change in his attire, as opposed to how his connection to Donna is usually shown.

Throughout the duration of Suits, Harvey Specter has many relationships, both professional, romantic, and platonic. Many of these relationships overlap, progressing from one, to another, back to something else. However, the common denominator of these relationships, is that Harvey struggles to express himself emotionally. He even goes so far as to describe himself as “…emotionally unavailable,” even as early as season 2. Where Harvey cannot express how much he values, trusts or cares about a character, his clothing, the colouring of his suits, and how casual his outfits are, express this for him, time and time again. While there are examples of this with almost every character whom Harvey is close to, it is most clearly shown through Zoe, Scottie, Paula, Mike, and Donna.

*mic drop*

TAGS: @bewarethesmirk, @vettelmeisterr, @theactressstaringinyourbaddream, @huneyism and @alinanvjsmom-blog

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