Saturday March 9, 2013
Rivers like the Camac, which runs through Inchicore, are good for people: they are nature's psychiatrists.
I spent a very happy little stint in Clondalkin when the Red Cow pub was a long, white-washed house where people played draughts in one corner. I live now in Portobello. The township of Inchicore is about halfway between there and Clondalkin, and over 25 years I have come to know it fairly well.
What the name means I am far from sure; my guess is that it signifies "the commonage by the river." Inchicore is very much in the centre of things; the
main road to the south runs past one side; the main railway line on this island runs past on the other side. The Grand Canal runs through it from east to west;
the Camac courses through it from south to north.
The Camac is a remarkable river: It runs so wild and free that you can hardly believe that to a certain extent it was shaped by man: sometime in the last
century its waters were diverted to turn a mill wheel. The mill is long since gone but the Camac hasn't been put back on its original course, even though to reach the heart of Inchicore it has to travel under the Grand Canal.
"Camac" probably comes from "Cam Abha," the Crooked River. There was a time when it was famous for brown trout; then the paper mills came to Clondalkin and the little river became woefully polluted.
In the late 1980s the paper mills closed down and we witnessed the Camac being born again. One day when I was at a game in Richmond Park, I heard splashing in the river beneath me and I was delighted to see two young mallard, a duck and a drake.
Rivers are good for people: they are nature's psychiatrists - and the more a river is in good health, the more beneficial it is.
The people of Inchicore are favoured by nature. The Camac in time will again be a good fishing river; the nearby stretch of the Grand Canal abounds in course fish, and then there is the remarkable part of the canal which you might call Swan Lane.
The mecca of the swans is a little to the east of a famous pub call the Black Horse. Nobody seems to understand why the swans favour this stretch of water so much — their number seldom falls below a hundred.
The celebrated poet from Newcastle West lived nearby for a while and published a book of very short poems called 'Inchicore Haiku' — but Michael Hartnett, as far as I know, has yet to write about the meeting place of the swans.
Railway lines, like rivers, are good for people. They are a symbol of life.
Sometimes when I am in Inchicore I think of a novel by the great Belgian Georges Simenon, 'The Man Who Watched Trains Go By.' Inchicore has long been known as railway country. Many men there worked as carriage builders or in some other department of the transport business.
Heuston Station, or Kingsbridge as it was known until the mid-1960s is only a little distance from the heart of Inchicore. John Betjeman, an authority in this field, has described this station as the most handsome known to him.
The River Liffey flows by the station; the vast wonderland of the Phoenix Park is not very far away —and so it fair to say that the good people of Inchicore are very much in the mainstream.
On the south bank of the river you will come to the War Memorial Park. It is about 20 acres in extent and contains a lovely Garden of Remembrance, a tribute to the 50,000 Irishmen who lost their lives in World War One.
In this beautiful garden there is a great cross about 30 feet high designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens; there is also a pavilion in which are kept the names and the records of all those who died in the war.
The very heart of Inchicore is a rectangle of ground off Emmet Road on its western side. This is Richmond Park, the home of St Patrick's Athletic Football Club.
This club has had a remarkable history; for a long time its members and its followers were like one of the lost tribes of Israel. Once upon a time, they were based in Vaughan's Field near the Red Cow; then they moved to the greyhound track in Chapelizod; next they come to Richmond Park; from thence they moved to Harold's Cross Greyhound Stadium, and then, at last, they came back to Richmond Park, and came to stay.
The move to Harold's Cross came because the pitch in Richmond Park had such a slope and was so pitted with holes that it was past being a joke.
Patrick's spent four successful years in Harold's Cross -and yet the followers moaned as if part of an involuntary diaspora, and they used to say 'Since Patrick's left Inchicore." The refugees are back now in their promised land; the new stadium is a shining example of what can be achieved by energy and intelligence and imagination.
Many of Patrick's most passionate followers are elderly people who are not overendowed with the earth's riches - it would be hard to exaggerate how much the club means to them.
It is a people's club in the fullest sense of the term: it cannot be bought and its ground is safe forever from the greedy hands of the "the developers." The Camac flows very close to the western side of the pitch, behind a line of tall trees; it runs swiftly and would lose no time in taking a straying football down to the Liffey. And so when the heart-rending cry of "ball in the river" goes up, there is a brave man ready to retrieve it with a hoop at the end of a long pole.
Among those who have played for Pat's are three men who are part of football folklore: Terry Venables and Gordon Banks and Paul McGrath — and another famous man, Barry Bridges, was once their manager.
Not far from Richmond Park you will come to a formidable stone building. This was once Kilmainham Gaol; in its grounds the leaders of the 1916 Rising were executed. It was closed down in 1924 and is now a magnificent museum.
Nearby is the Royal Hospital. Charles Il built it in 1679 as a home for war veterans. It is now one of Dublin's greatest buildings; it serves as art gallery, banqueting hall, conference centre and exhibition complex.
For me the most precious part of Inchicore and its environs is the little lane that leads eastwards by the back of the gaol. It is like a piece of the country in the heart of the city. It has green spaces and hedges and trees and there you can hear the birds sing. There, too, you will find a little pub which from the outside looks like a private house.
This is the Old Royal Oak — and long may it last.
The Oblate Fathers' Church and House of Retreat, meanwhile, is a famous meeting place for people who need spiritual renewal.
In its own way, it is like the meeting place of the swans.
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Some exciting events I'll be at this and next month!
Thought bubble festival this weekend 12th - 13th Nov, in Harrogate, UK - table 42 Redshirt Hall!
Richmond barracks dublin
Christmas fair - sat 26th - sun 27th Nov, in Inchicore, Ireland
Dublin comic arts Festival
Sat 10th - sun 11th Dec, in Richmond Barracks, Inchicore, Ireland
Sonairte
Christmas Eve Xmas Fair - 17th Dec, in Laytown, Co. Meath, Ireland
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