thestarandthephoenix

[thestarandthephoenix]

Wanting to make some of these...

Bad Girls Club by Xin Yingzong

[thestarandthephoenix]

Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 52, vol. 18, 27 décembre 1896, Paris. 1. Deux toilettes d'intérieur. (Modèles de Mme Giacomotti, 2, rue du Marché-Saint-Honoré.) Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

Keep reading

[thestarandthephoenix]

I was working with an item today that just utterly flabbergasted a part of me (the other was deeply frustrated with the catalogue record AS SOMEONE APPARENTLY THOUGHT IT WAS PRINTED ON SILK, coming back to that in a minute) … but ANYWAYS … said item is a replica of a medieval manuscript prayer book THAT IS ENTIRELY WOVEN out of grey and black silk … WOVEN … text, images, intricate grey scale, WOVEN … NOT PRINTED …

And it’s flabbergasting because it’s from 1888, Jacquard machine, IT USED PUNCH CARDS to weave these intricate pages … something like 400 weft per near square inch … IT looks like a page of textured paper, but it’s not, it’s entirely SILK … F*CK …

Anyways …

[thestarandthephoenix]

La Mode illustrée, no. 36, 07 septembre 1863

Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

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La Mode illustrée, no. 10, 9 mars 1863

Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

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Illustrirte Frauen-Zeitung Volume XXIII No 24, December 15, 1896 Plate 1213

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Le Monde Elegant, 1861

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La Mode: revue du monde élégant. Sixième année. 5 Decembre 1834. Paris. Pl. 403. Chapeau en velours des Mins. de Mme. Leptit 30 Rue Grange-Batelière — Robe en pou de soie garnie de rubans façon de Mme. Hypolite — Manteau des Mins. Gagelin. Bibliothèque nationale de France

[thestarandthephoenix]

We won.

#anakin skywalker #ahsoka tano #anakin and ahsoka #star wars #sw #canon #ahsoka #ahsoka series #hayden christensen #ariana greenblatt #tcw

[thestarandthephoenix]

I'm not crying 🥲💖

#star wars #master and padawan #anakin skywalker #obi wan kenobi #qui gon jinn #ahsoka tano #ahsoka spoilers #star wars prequels #ahsoka series #star wars fandom #Am I the only one finding hilarious that Anakin is the only padawan taller than his master? XD

[thestarandthephoenix]

I'm old enough to remember windows 97

[thestarandthephoenix]

she's never going to read this, but it's still interesting

so the person with the extremely cold corset takes last night has now decided that dress history folks are straight-up lying about the purpose of corsets. because we just love them so much, I guess?

she found this ad:

and therefore knows corsets were Totally About Waist Reduction First And Foremost, Always And Forever, Amen

I have. some thoughts.

the main one being that nobody claimed corsets were never used to waist-train back then

the secondary one being that many ads for "form-reducing corsets," at least the ones that I found, make a distinction between "normal" corsets and their product:

It's a specialty product, not what the average woman is wearing on a daily basis. Is its existence messed up? Yes! But nobody has been disputing that pressure on women to look a certain way, and fatphobia, are awful. The issue in question is: was the primary function of an average (in this case Victorian/Edwardian) corset waist reduction? It seems to me that the ad supplied- again, for a specialty garment that was not seen as an ordinary corset -does not prove OP's point.

so let's look at some ordinary corset ads, shall we?

(don't freak out too much about the "baby/child corsets"- I've worked with extant examples many times, and they're just lightly stiffened vests. you couldn't lace a kid down in them if you tried- not that you should, obviously)

(Pliability, elasticity, comfort- but no mention of waist reduction as a selling point)

(this one is an unusual design, but I'm including it because it mentions support- and specifically breast support -not once, but twice. It also instructs ladies to measure their waists OUTSIDE their clothing- which will result in a larger measure even than we commonly use for custom corsets nowadays. note that a 2" lacing gap was common, per a corsetiere quoted in Valerie Steele's The Corset: A Cultural History)

(Flexibility and comfort, yet again.)

(Rather a ridiculous one, including the implication that you need an elegant corset to snare a husband and therefore economic security and love, but the bottom left text says "What an improvement the Madam Warren corset. And how comfortable.")

so we've clearly got comfort, support, and ease of movement at the forefront of the average consumer's mind, for so many ads to mention such thing. a number also don't have much text at all:

(The Celebrated EEE is my hypothetical burlesque name, but I digress.)

of the first twenty random ads that come up when I do an image search for "corset advertisement," eleven mention health and/or comfort, and only one directly mentions waist reduction- while advertising, again, a separate specialty "reducing" corset.

am I saying it never happened? absolutely not. I have NEVER been saying that. tightlacing did happen. obviously reducing corsets existed. I would not deny any of this

am I saying that, clearly, support and comfort were thought so high on the average corset-wearer's priority list that manufacturers played to those attributes more than waist reduction when constructing/advertising corsets, implying that they are NOT, in fact, the same thing as a Kim K waist cincher? yes

(file under: things I cannot believe I have to fucking say, and yet here we are)

[thestarandthephoenix]

La Mode illustrée, no. 35, 29 août 1909, Paris. Robe pour jeune fille, de Drecoll. Doc. phot. Manuel. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

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Dessins originaux des Modes, 1858-1865 by Albert Adam, Hippolyte Pauquet.

Bibliothèque nationale de France.

[thestarandthephoenix]

Everybody is always so surprised about how comfortable historical corsets/stays, if made properly, can be. I was too!

I got a pair of regency era short stays and I’m bouncing all over the place in excitement! It’s my first historical (under) garment and it’s so much comfier than I expected, and I was already expecting something more comfortable than my usual bras! It gives great back support (it’s good. I am the Hunchback of Notre-Dame if I don’t consciously mind my posture) and feels like a tight hug which is very good for my sensory issues. I’m Happy! Happy! Happy!

No picture attached because I don’t want to show THAT much skin on the internet

Also, I will be able to start on my Regency era dress now that I have the proper bust support. It will be the base for at leas two historical Lotr/Silm cosplays I have had in in mind for a long time now!

#historical fashion #regency #fashion history #1800s fashion #historical clothing #short stays #historical corsetry

[thestarandthephoenix]

If I’m gonna have to see and then report over a dozen porn bots every day can they at least give me like a daily grinding quest for it like it’s an MMO. Can I get some gold and a mediocre loot drop

[thestarandthephoenix]

Super rough concept sketch, (lol with lots of horrible copy/paste/stretch of the book jewels) but here's what I'd like to make for the Labyrinth of Jareth ball this year. Have ALWAYS been obsessed with this prop Disney built for the opening of Sleeping Beauty, and would love to try and make a dress based on it!!

Outside layer VERY shiny gold, lots of embroidery/beading. Inside layer a simple linen/paper like texture, maybe with some text or imagery from the inside of the book!

#gorgeous #I definitely want to see how this will go