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#whitework
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aworldofpattern · 1 year
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Whitework embroidery inspired by the art of Hieronymus Bosch, from Alexander McQueen, SS23, by Sarah Burton.
Seen on Elle Fanning at the Critics Choice Awards 2023.
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meaarts · 1 year
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frivolous-pastel · 2 years
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I'm gonna ease back into my cross-stitch with linework embroidery except it's gonna be neon yellow floss on black aida
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sewswithdolls · 1 year
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An Overview of Indian Whitework Embroidery
An Overview of Indian Whitework Embroidery
First Published in part in Needle Arts June 2022 Copyright 2021-2022 MvRY/Mevanou verch Reys Yriskynit-Tina M Comroe The importance of decolonizing my viewpoint As a white woman of northern European genetics, it is Very important that I go forward in this project with Respect, granting the indigenous peoples of India the dignity and voice so deserved in regards to their historical and modern…
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artschoolglasses · 3 months
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White muslin wedding dress with whitework embroidery, ca. 1807
From the Victoria & Albert Museum
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jewellery-box · 4 months
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Dress, c. 1869
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This ensemble is an example of fashionable women’s daywear for summer in the late 1860s. The light muslin bodice and skirt are unlined, but they were probably worn over an opaque under-dress. There is an overskirt over the back of the dress, accentuating the bustle that by this time was worn underneath. The off-the-shoulder seam and sleeves with width at the elbow are typical of the 1860s.
Cotton muslin, trimmed with satin, bobbin lace and machine embroidered whitework.
The dress is trimmed with applied bands of emerald green satin, and insertions of Midland Counties bobbin lace and machine-made white work embroidery. It consists of a blouse, loose-fitting and below the waist in length, with a high, round neck and a concealed front fastening. The sleeves are long and medium-wide. The matching skirt, which is very full, is straight-cut in front, gored and pleated at the sides and tightly gathered at the centre of the back. It is unlined, but has a deep facing at the hem. Over it is a polonaise, arranged in graduated swagged festoons. There is a satin belt trimmed with a rosette.
V & A Museum
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thehaberdasheress · 11 days
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Hmmm.
The Godzilla pattern evolved out of a copy of Jane Seymour's sleeves. (Jane Seymour = 1508-1537, third wife to King Henry VIII of England, gave birth to the future King Edward VI and died shortly thereafter. Clearly she had enough on her plate without a radioactive lizard. Hans Holbein painted a portrait of her where the needlework on her outfit was rendered with exquisite clarity.)
I often need to print out my patterns and check their scale, but rarely am I this off.
The pattern:
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The original:
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Which like, my patterns are generally sized to 8 stitches per inch, which is nearly twice as large as a beginner cross-stitch pattern. It makes sense that the Queen of England's official portrait costume was exquisitely embroidered. But now I'm left trying to decide whether like
I like making patterns that are large and accessible to beginners
But a lot of the market for embroidery patterns like this (especially something like this, miles more complicated than my other patterns) are the hardcore nerds who go "challenge accepted" about detail work
It's hard to print really tiny details on the interfacing because it's fairly rough fabric
Because the pattern is so clear in the painting, I don't want to just reduce the complexity to make the bigger stitch framework accommodate the pattern
So my choices are:
Keep it bigger and easier at 8 stitches per inch
Shrink it down to the portrait size, about 32 stitches per inch, or
Split the difference and bring it down to 16 stitches per inch
(I'm also not sure about the scale of her whitework neckline pattern, also up in the air about shape, so I'm using one of my pre-printed grid sheets to sketch out a half-sized test stitch so I can see both in silk and linen before I decide on that one.)
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15-lizards · 9 months
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What kind of embroidery do you see each kingdom doing?
This is the good shit right here
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Goldwork embroidery is so Lan-coded but is also very Tyrell-pilled and even Faith of the Seven-celled, so I believe that this is a big western movement, which makes sense as all the big houses and the faith can afford to splurge on literal cloth of gold thread so they can make their vestments and dresses and coats look all pretty with painstakingly accurate flowers and lions and seven pointed stars
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Whitework would probably be common all over Westeros, but is especially popular in the Vale, as the overall look of this type of embroidery is more light and airy, less heavy than beads or thick goldwork stitching. And in my head Vale fashions are very flouncy and flowy, moving with the wind. So delicate and pretty suits them
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I really like needlework and needlepoint for the Stormlands. It looks sturdier and is often on thicker fabrics, looking like it will last longer than silk and thin linen stitches. And it almost tends to look worn and a little rough, as if it’s been passed down as an heirloom for so many years, and as if the hand that stitched it was not as careful or delicate as the gentle hand from a lady from the Vale might stitch it. This was made by a rough stormlands woman who needs to keep her children warm at night
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Stumpwork again is something that is probably popular all over the kingdoms but particularly in the riverlands idk the riverlands vibe is just so textured like I can just grab onto it so their clothing and embroidery should also be textured I have no real reasoning behind this other than vibes. Also I’m pretty sure Cat wears stumpwork in the show and Sansa does at certain points too so it has some show basis if that means anything at all
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Gota Patti is so perfect for most Dornish customs. There is no room for thick and heavy embroidery to weight down their clothes, as the fabric is too thin for that, so they opt for lighter threadworm instead, nothing bulky. They might use cloth of gold or silver but will not make it textured like the westerners. It’s lightweight but still complex enough to show off artistry and wealth
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medici-collar · 1 year
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This is an example of a fashionable summer day dress of the late 1850s. Typical of the period are the full ‘pagoda’ sleeves and the bodice gathered from the shoulders into the lower front waist. Tiered skirts were popular in the 1850s. The fabric was printed with a decorative border expressly for use as tiers of a dress. It was known by the French term à disposition’.
1858-1860
UK
Printed cotton, trimmed with whitework embroidery, hand-sewn
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dollimusprime · 2 months
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Hoppy Easter! I sewed Clover some new duds and took her out on a walk. (Dinged up her ear after the first pic, ugh.)
[ID: Three pictures of Clover outside on an overcast spring day. She's wearing a peach-pink blouse, loose lace legwarmers tied on with pink ribbon, and an above-the-knee jumper with a pink floral pattern on sage green and a green panel on the front crisscrossed with pink ribbon. It also has a lace ruffle on the bottom that has more pink ribbon across the middle. She's wearing an apron made of a piece of large whitework trim.
In the first, she's leaning on a wooden railing, looking out at the pond beyond.
In the second, she's ducking behind a large brown rock.
In the third, she's sitting on an alder branch, head turned to the side. New leaves are budding around her.
End ID.]
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kynmoonlight · 9 months
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Bard's Broken Heart
I present: 1 motif of what I’m calling “Bard’s Broken Heart Lace”
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OK, not quite, but still a cool design. Inspired by this post from Tumblr user @loki-is-my-kink-awakening https://www.tumblr.com/loki-is-my-kink-awakening/723753602720661504/oh-my-gods-are-these-the-hearts-hidden-on?source=share Who noticed that the trim on Jaskier’s shirt in Season 3 Netflix Witcher is little hearts! And a reply (sorry OP, I can’t find it now) noted that they’re very symbolically, hearts that are divided!
So anyway, I got crafting-obsessed and had to try to figure out how it was made and attempt to recreate it.
Which lead to research on historical lace-making and needlework.
[Disclaimers: this is all my best guesses as an amateur crafter, not a historical expert. I know my stitching is uneven, especially the pin-picots, which I just learned last week]
by the way, crafters or fic writers looking for historical fibercraft reference, check out Project Gutenberg’s (free!) The Encyclopedia of Needlework by Thérèse de Dillmont https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/20776/pg20776-images.html SO much fascinating stuff!
First, based on the clearest photos I can find (ie not very) I’m guessing the actual trim was machine-made, because a) the stitching is really even and smooth and tiny, b) handmade lace would be extremely expensive, and c) TV/Movie costuming needs multiples of every garment, especially for something like a delicate chemise Jaskier wears running all around the continent for a whole season. 
My first guess and attempt was crochet, which wasn’t it, then thought it might be tatting or bobbin lace, which also weren’t right once I looked up images. 
I finally settled on whitework cut-work embroidery with some needle lace techniques for the edging. Which I think gave me a kind of close facsimile. This one is about 1-½ x the size of what he wears (because that’s the limit of my aging hand steadiness, crafting magnifiers, and the materials I had.)
This one motif took me probably two hours, including many screwups and tangles. Not including drafting, blocking and snapshots. With the right materials and one done for practice (as it was only my second project in whitework and first try at needle lace!) one heart would take around an hour. For someone whose lifelong job, all day every day, was embroidering lace trim, they’d probably manage a meter/yard or two of the actual size trim, which I’m guessing is how much is on that shirt.
So in-universe, this still wouldn’t be a cheap piece of clothing, with at least a full day of skilled craftswomen wages for just the lace, plus finely woven, printed fabric that (I think, historically, that would have been block printed by hand), and additional seamster time to make it up. Modern-day equivalent would probably be easily USD $1000 if not 2x that. Our boy is making good money as a now-famous bard! (I suppose in a universe with magic, it could have been magiked, or magically duplicated after an expert created a template, but I suspect that would cost as much as handcrafting anyhow)
If I get bored and the crafting bug hits me again, I might try to make a whole edging this, maybe on a handkerchief. 
Now, what do I do with one lace heart? I settled on starching it and attaching a safety pin back, so I guess if I ever go to a convention I can wear it as a pin so fellow Witchercrafters and Jaskier fans know how much of a nerd I really am.
I could write up direx with step by step pictures if anyone else really wants to try it.
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meirimerens · 23 days
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hi i was recently at an exhibition and thought you might enjoy this piece :) its called 'madness' by justyna smoleńska. the whole exhibition was themed around dreams and surrealism/symbolism so it really reminded me of your work. hope you have a nice day!
YESSSSS FUCKKKKKK WHITEWORKS SCULPTURE RISE THE FUCK UP!!!!!!!!!! i see ye animals... ye beafsts... looove the horsies love the counterbalance of the soft & rounded utilitarian yet precious porcelain and the extranumerous the bulging the ungraspability of the form... yesssss fuck
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on the website right now. any Wrocław mutuals friends and followers want to dig a small hole in the earth to summon me so i can attend. Please
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jewellery-box · 1 year
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Embroidered cotton morning robe
English or American, ca. 1860-65
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Morning robe or peignoir of cotton with whitework embroidery, pagoda oversleeves and tight undersleeves with lace-trimmed ruffles at the wrists, lace-trimmed collar, and a lightly trained full skirt with curved edges at center front and fine cartridge pleating across back waistband. The stylized trailing floral and foliate embroidered motifs, worked primarily in satin stitch, knots, and drawnwork, are graduated in size and density down the center front from neck to hem and around lower edges of over- and undersleeves, and forming triangular shape on back bodice.
Cora Ginsburg
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todaysdocument · 1 year
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Memorandum relating to racialized violence at the Alabama Drydock and Shipbuilding Company in Mobile, AL, where some Black workers had recently been promoted to welders. May 25, 1943. 
Record Group 211: Records of the War Manpower Commission
Series: Speeches by Members of Regional Office Staff and Other Material
Transcription: 
FORM OEM-32 [top left side of paper]
(8-7-42) [top left side of paper]
[A date stamp appears on the top right side of the paper.  The stamp is circular with numbers 1 to 12 around the circumference with an arrow pointing to 9. The center part of the stamp says RECEIVED MAY 27 1943 War Manpower Commission Atlanta, Ga.]
[Below the stamp are what appear to be initials, handwritten, with a check mark on top of them. The name Allen is handwritten below.]
EXECUTIVE OFFICE OF THE PRESIDENT
OFFICE FOR EMERGENCY MANAGEMENT
————————
OFFICE MEMORANDUM
TO:  Mr. Constangy [left side]
DATE:  5/25/43 [right side]
FROM:  Toulmin G.A.T. [The initials are handwritten to the right of surname] [left side]
5:30 PM [right side]
SUBJECT:  Racial Disturbance - ADDSCO [left side]
Attached are clippings from the afternoon "Mobile Press".
Today, I have had contacts with the following and have obtained what I believe to be reliable information from them.
Lt. Campbell, Naval Intelligence
Arthur Kearney, ADDSCO
Mr. Craven, " [ditto marks below ADDSCO above]
John Boucher, CIO - ADDSCO Union Rep'v.
J. C. Gates, Mgr., USES, Mobile.
Chas Baumhauer, Commissioner, City of Mobile.
Apparently the disturbance came off when the morning shift went on at 7 o'clock.  It is said that the first shift of negro welders went on about 11 o'clock last night and were finishing up their work at 7 this morning.  The whiteworkers [sic] began to collect in groups and it is said that they first threatened to strike.  Later, according to eye witnesses, they began to throw various pieces of steel, etc., at negroes near the work.  One white foreman is said to have been injured when he attempted to make the white men desist.  Mr. Craven said it was understood that one of the men hit him with a 2x4 rail and knocked him out, also a cut necessitated surgical treatment with a number of stitches for the wound.
One of the negroes who saw the trouble came up and [sic] here and said about five negroes were injured.  This seemed to be so, but I was told later that none of the injuries were very serious.  Large numbers of both white and negro workers left the yard and came back to the city.  A group of about 2 hundred negroes went first to the union headquarters and then were persuaded to go home until better order was secured.  The negro who came up to see me said his foreman urged his crew of laborers to leave the yard until order was restored and safety for them assured.
So far as can be ascertained this evening, no further trouble has developed at the yard.  However, instructions have been issued for women and children to remain off the streets and for citizens to be conservative in their talk, being careful not to stir up any further racial feeling.
[Stamp at bottom of page shows a soldier with a rifle and along side are the words FOR VICTORY BUY UNITED STATES WAR BONDS AND STAMPS]
[page 2]
FORM OEM-32 [left side of paper]
(8-7-42) [left side of paper]
EXECUTIVE OFFICE OF THE PRESIDENT
OFFICE FOR EMERGENCY MANAGEMENT
—————
OFFICE MEMORANDUM
TO:  [blank] [left side]
DATE: [blank [right side]
FROM:  [blank] [left side]
-  2. - [typed in the middle of this section]
SUBJECT:  [blank]
It seems that the better element at the yard took no part in the demonstration this morning, and I heard from Hugh Cornelius, General Superintendent for Doullut & Ewin, General Contractors, who have an office near where the trouble began, that he felt that the attack on the negroes was without any justification whatever and the action of a bunch of hoodlums.
It is hoped that the Management of ADDSCO will restore order and that the Yard will resume operations tomorrow morning.
The United States Employment Service has been cautioned to be particularly careful in handling releases during the next few days so that as little disruption of labor market conditions will result from this unfortunate incident as may be.
Dr. Morley will return to the office tomorrow morning and will, no doubt, keep you advised of any developments.
Encllsures [sic]
[A stamp appears on the bottom left side of page with a soldier holding a rifle and alongside are the words FOR VICTORY BUY UNITED STATES WAR BONDS AND STAMPS]
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