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[sweatersproducer]

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[barbeygirl]

A quick introduction to 1940’s fashion

I've been so obsessed with Band of Brothers recently and I love reading the fanfics. Here’s my contribution, for your OC's.

(soon!) Part 2. Hair, makeup etc

(soon!) 1940's lookbook (photos)

The war had a major impact on 40's fashion. There were shortages and rations, and women were entering the workforce as men went off to war, leading to a more simplistic, utilitarian style.

Rations and regulations:

In the UK, clothing was rationed from June, 1941 to March, 1949, in varying strictness. So although you still payed for clothing with money, you'd need coupons to be allowed to buy them altogether. In the US, the Regulation L-85 (1942), rationed natural fibers and restricted how clothing could be made in order to save fabric. This meant regulating the skirt length, the fullness of pants and jackets, and even banned cuffs.

Silhouette:

The early 40's silhouette had strong, boxy shoulders, but by the mid forties and as the restrictions grew more strict, the silhouette softened to save materials. A nipped-in and high waistline stayed popular for the whole decade, and a hemline below the knee was fashionable until 1947, when Dior came out with the "New Look".

Fashion:

Because restrictions and shortages, the look was simple but stylish. Showy, over the top clothing was considered unfashionable to wear in wartime Britain.

The "military style" bled into every day fashion. It was common for men, who were not on active duty, to still wear bomber jackets, trench coats and aviator glasses. It's visible on women's fashion as well, which is why some of the clothing have a sort of a uniformly look.

Popular outfits for women were square-shouldered jackets with matching A-line skirts, shirtwaist dresses, and thanks to actresses, pants were now also a stable part of women's wardrobes. The pants had wide, straight legs and high waists, and were often paired with a colorful blouse or sweater and a matching jacket.

Hand knitting in Britain was at peak popularity during the war. Women on the home front were encouraged to "knit your bit" and contribute to the war effort by knitting for the troops. The warmth of woollen items also made knitwear popular for civilians.

Working women:

Women were entering the workforce to replace men, who went off to war. This required more practical attire, such as sturdy shoes, head scarves, overalls etc.

Some jobs (such as the WAVES) felt it important to emphasize that women wouldn't become any less feminine by working or wearing a uniform. This is why makeup, nail polish and feminine hairstyles weren't just largely allowed, they were encouraged.

Actress Veronica Lake, famous of her highly imitated "Peek-a-boo" hairstyle, where her hair covers one of her eyes, encouraged women working in factories to tie their hair up into safer styles to avoid injury. In this Safety Styles video, she has her hair up in a "victory roll" style.

The New Look by Dior:

After the long war, and as life was slowly returning back to normal, there was a want of "returning to femininity" among women. At the same time, some women feared that this ultra-femininity would set back all the progress they had made working outside the home during the war.

In 1947, Christian Dior released a new collection called ”The New Look” which featured a full, calf-length skirt. After the simple lines of the utility clothing, such a dress seemed desirable by contrast. The full skirt was also controversial for how much fabric it used, since rationing in the UK wouldn't end for another two years and there were still material shortages in both UK and the US.

Despite the controversies, the New Look was hugely popular and became the predominant silhouette well into the 1950's.

A/N: To keep this short, I had to paste and delete like half of what this originally was onto part 2. Also, lmk if there's interest in men's fashion ver. of this!

Hopefully this was legible. All the ”not my first language blah blah” stuff <3

sources: (links)

Imperial War Museum National Museum of American History centralcasting.com V&A Museum (free 1940's knitting patterns!!) NationalWW2museum.org

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[sweaterproducer]

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[artanddesignmatters]

Vintage Designer Sally Levison Originals late 1960’s/early 1970’s Crochet Maxi Dress Established in early 1968, fashion label "Levison Originals" was the creation of a young Sarah Levison-Marder, whose knitwear pieces became very successful within the London fashion scene. With a manufacturing base in the picturesque island of Gozo, Malta, garments were imported and sold to the British public from a Mortimer Street boutique in the heart of Fitzrovia, Mayfair, London Sally Levison self-donated several of her original designs to the V&A Museum in London, and her pieces are now considered very rare and highly collectible. Sally Levison passed away in 2006. The Victoria & Albert Museum: Sally Levison perceived that knitwear was undergoing a radical transformation and caught the mood for coordinated and “mix and match” outfits. Her short-lived but internationally successful business was set up on the small Maltese island of Gozo in 1968. She employed up to one thousand knitters and crocheters and in 1970, encouraged by the Maltese government, set up a factory. The business was sold to Mary Farrin in 1973. Condition: In Excellent vintage condition with minor signs of wear. Material: 52% Vincel, 48% Courtelle Beautiful soft, fine, knit V-Neck and Low V-Back Slips on over head Stretches to fit, so will fit sizes UK 8, 10 & 12 US 4,6 & 8 EUR 26, 38 & 40 Approximate measurements: all measurements taken across with garment laid flat (so double for largest circumference) Across bust: up to 18.5 Inches Waist: up to 16 Inches Hip: up to 22 Inches Total length: 60 Inches #SallyLevison #CrochetDress #VintageDress #Dress #BlueDress #HandKnitDress #knitwear #designervintage #longbluedress #ArtandDesignMatters #EveningDress #HandMade #HandCrochet #HandMadeDress #FashionHistory #Fashion #VintageFashion #vintageclothing #vintageblogger #vintagecrochet #vintageknitdress #longknitdress #longcrochetdress #rarevintagedress #rarevintage #truevintage #thelowecollective https://www.instagram.com/p/ChTKsjkp-_7/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

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[royal-things]

31 March 2022

St James’s Palace The Princess Royal, President, Scotch Chef’s Club, this morning opened the upgraded Dunbia Highland Meats Facility, Blakely Road, Saltcoats, Ayrshire, and was received by Colonel John Dalrymple-Hamilton (Vice Lord-Lieutenant of Ayrshire and Arran).

Her Royal Highness, President, UK Fashion and Textile Association, this afternoon visited Barrie Knitwear Limited, Burnfoot Industrial Estate, Hawick, Roxburghshire, and was received by Mrs Kirsty Dunlop (Deputy Lieutenant of Roxburgh, Ettrick and Lauderdale).

The Princess Royal, President, UK Fashion and Textile Association, later visited the Eribé Knitwear Factory, Unit 8G, Tweedside Park, and opened the Eribé Knitwear Showroom in Dingleton Road, Melrose, Roxburghshire, and was received by Mrs Philippa Lee (Vice Lord-Lieutenant of Roxburgh, Ettrick and Lauderdale).

Court Circular

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[thelifestyleeditor]

CREATIVE CONVERSATIONS:

Who are you: Jules Hogan

What is your work: Design knitted garments and accessories

What is your:

Website: www.juleshogan.com

Twitter: juleshoganknit

Instagram: @juleshoganknitwear

Facebook: juleshoganknitwear

Describe your work in 5 words: Natural, simple, slow, crafted, timeless.

Can you tell us a little about your what you do? I’m a knitwear designer maker based in Berkshire, UK. My designs are inspired by the everyday, botanicals and patchwork crafts. The basis for the collection is simple shapes, natural materials and muted colours, designed to flatter and enhance the body and suitable for men and women. Time is spent selecting the perfect shades to flatter different skin tones. Many of the designs are knitted by myself, but helped by master knitters in Scotland, and have recently started working with a family-owned factory in Nottingham.

Can you tell us about your career journey and how you got to where you are today? I graduated in 1995 and the collection won the Graduate Fashion Week Knitwear Award, and the Winchester School of Art Colour award. Whilst studying at Winchester, I developed a love of colour and dyeing techniques. My first job was as a colourist for a design consultancy in London, where I produced colour samples for designers and high street stores, including Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Sir Terence Conran. I’ve always been multi-faceted, so spent time producing print designs and embroideries during this time, and continued this once I had moved on, working freelance for a design studio. For my next appointment, I worked with Gary Rooney and we designed and produced knitted ideas for fashion houses and retail outlets. These designs were sold in Europe and the USA. A highlight was working with WGSN, a trend agency, because we were able to create inspirational textiles without restraint.

Where is your office/studio, and what is the view out of your window? My studio is at the end of the garden positioned under an old Oak tree. Looking out of the window, I can see a bird feeder (I love watching the Robins and Finches), my tiered vegetable patch, garden and the house.

What is the first thing you do when you get to work? The first thing I do is open the blind to let in natural light and turn on the radio, usually Radio 4, as I enjoy the hum of voices as I work and its always an education!

What are the tools of your trade? A knitting machine, yarn, machine tools, several pairs of scissors and snips, and a notebook, which I carry everywhere for those inspiring moments.

What can’t you work without? I’m very resourceful and can work with very little, but I can’t live without being able to create, having access to the outdoors and those moments of calm and relaxation.

Why do you love what you do? I love that being my own boss has given me freedom and I can work at my own pace. Since becoming self-employed, I have increased my social circle, meeting up with like-minded creatives and designing intuitively.

Who or what inspires you? The beauty of the everyday inspires me the most. It can be simple items we have in our homes, the hedgerows on my daily dog walks, lichen on a rooftop and even a tiny flower growing in the crack of a pavement.

What is the best advice you have received? The best advice I received was by a gentleman I met very early on in my career, David Shah, who said, “It’s important as a creative to be your own boss”. It took over 20 years, but I’m pleased to be at this stage now.

One moment in your career you will always remember? The moment I remember the most was getting the results for my degree. It was an emotional time with family illness, wanting to be at home, but knowing it was important to put in the work and finish the course. I was thrilled to receive a first class BA…you can imagine the relief and I broke down in tears.

What is the worst part of your job? The isolation of day-to-day working from home, but social media has helped an awful lot and being part of a network of creatives.

What’s your proudest career achievement? Seeing my textile designs on the catwalk and in shops, but also where I am now, running a creative business.

What are you working on at the moment? The right decision for all, but like many, it was very unsettling being in lockdown as plans were altered, shows cancelled and everything stopped. Once I had adjusted to our new way of life, I decided to use the time wisely and allowed myself to experiment (creative play), and try ideas that had been in my thoughts for a while. This has included working with woven fabrics, patchwork and darning. I’m really pleased with the results so far, and the designs are having a favourable response. Things have gone full circle and after a break I’m getting the dye pots out again, and introducing some botanical dyeing into the collection.

Can you share some favourite websites or instagram feeds?

Some of my favourites are:

@niki.at.the.cottage - One of the first people I followed on Instagram, a seasonal journal, gardening, books, and recipes.

@kathryn_davey - Natural dye textile study and tutor. I took part in one of Kathryn’s workshops last year and its helped me to fall in love with extracting dye from plant material.

@nakedclayceramics - Gorgeous ceramics in earthy tones. Beautiful glazes and subtle details.

@lobsterandswan - account for Jeska Hearne photographer. Jeska’s images have a narrative and you feel part of them. I am honoured to have bespoke items stocked in the online store (@thefuturekept) she shares with her partner Dean.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to do what you are doing? Learn as much as possible and continue learning - it keeps things fresh and exciting!

Do you have a secret ambition still to achieve? I hope to introduce some woven garments to sit with the knitted pieces.

What is your personal motto? ‘Nothing happens before its time’, is something my Mum always says. It’s important to have patience and if its meant to be, it will happen.

If you had an extra hour each day what would you do with it? If I had an extra hour I would like to think I would rest, but in reality know I would fill the time ‘doing’!

How would you like to be remembered? A maker of pieces that bring joy…thoughtful, honest and caring.

Thank you Jules for talking to The Lifestyle Editor.

[skippyv20]

Thank you😊❤️❤️❤️❤️

ROYAL diary 28th October 3rd November

29th October:

– The Queen will give a reception at Buckingham Palace to celebrate the work of The Queen Elizabeth Diamond Jubilee Trust. The Countess of Wessex will attend as Vice-Patron.

– The Duchess of Cornwall, patron of The Guild of St Bride’s, will attend a service to honour fallen journalists at St Bride’s Church, Fleet Street, London.

– The Duke of Sussex  will attend the launch of  The Invictus Games 2020 in the Hague, the Netherlands.

– The Princess Royal, patron of The Butler Trust, will visit HM Prison and Young Offenders Institute Woodhill, Milton Keynes, and attend the National Association of Local Councils Annual Conference at Double Tree by Hilton Hotel, Milton Keynes. As an Honorary Member of The Royal Automobile Club, Anne will attend a dinner to celebrate the achievements of Sir Jackie Stewart, The Royal Automobile Club, London.

30th October:

– The Duchess of Cornwall will visit Mulberry School for Girls, London. Camilla will also visit The Royal Foundation of St Katharine in Limehouse, London, which hosts retreats; it is also a royal peculiar.

– The Princess Royal, President of the City and Guilds of London Institute, will hold The Princess Royal Training Awards Ceremony at St. James’s Palace. The Princess, as Royal Patron of the National Coastwatch Institution, will attend the Annual Station Managers’ Meeting at The Victory Services Club, London. Lastly, as patron of Save the Children UK, Anne will hold a Centenary Dinner at Buckingham Palace.

31st October:

– The Duchess of Cornwall, Vice-Patron of The Royal Commonwealth Society, will hold a reception on behalf of The Queen, for winners of The Queen’s Commonwealth Essay Competition, Buckingham Palace.

– The Princess Royal, President of the National Equine Forum, will attend the Organising Committee Meeting at the Kennel Club, London. Anne is to attend the President’s Lecture and Dinner for the The Royal Society for the encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce as their President, in London.

1st November:

– The Prince of Wales is in Scotland; The Duke of Rothesay will visit Scott & Charters Knitwear Factory, Hawick, Roxburgh, Ettrick and Lauderdale; visit Hawico, to celebrate British Industry in Hawick; and Hawick town centre; visit The Mainstreet Trading Company, Melrose; visit the Tweed Forum, Melrose;

– The Princess Royal, Past Master of the Worshipful Company of Butchers, will open the renovated Butchers’ Hall followed by a Court Meeting and Luncheon, London.

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