Dye, doll, dye
I did a dyeing thing - a white Resinsoul centaur (Dawn) and different vinyl shell parts of an Obitsu 50 cm body (whitey and super whitey).
What I used:
A big shiny pot. Life pro tip - if you have an induction cooktop, check your crappy pot that you ordered from Amazon right away. Amazon sellers are liars.
Lots of towels (water everywhere). Dye (RIT DyeMore is what I used, because it's specifically for synthetics), isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and a melamine sponge (Magic Eraser) for oopsies, and weed whacker trimmer string for the parts. Plus coffee.
Strung doll parts. NOTE: before I dye resin or vinyl, I soak it in cold water for 10-15 minutes. Resin is porous. Water will help open the pores for a slightly more even dye distribution.
So one thing I see over and over that drives me CRAZY is people dumping the whole bottle of dye directly into the water.
RIT has recipes. Here's the recipe for Fallen Star using "small" items:
It doesn't matter which small item you pick - the recipe is the same. For a more intense color, increase the amount of dye (Fallen Star is 2 teaspoons of Royal Purple, 1/2 teaspoon Frost Grey, 1/2 teaspoon Sapphire Blue per 4 cups of water). If you dump in the whole bottle, 1) you're wasting dye, and 2) you're not going to get the color that the dye is supposed to produce.
Dye measured - and then I measure one more batch in a separate cup. As stuff goes in the water, dye is absorbed and removed from the water - so you gotta add a little back. Like, an eyedropper at a time, a little.
I set the water to be just under a boil - no bubbling, but still painful when you accidentally stick a finger in there. It's soapy because RIT recommends adding a tiny bit of dish soap and a little salt to the dye bath to help disperse the color evenly.
Dunk:
The resin parts got 3 minutes each. The vinyl parts got 6 minutes.
Horse butt magnet came unglued, and there's something on the butt that prevented it from absorbing dye. I don't know what it is. I'll have to color correct with pastels. Also: the horse body was cast in two parts that were glued together, and the seams sanded. This became immediately apparent post-dye.
The floating blobs top left are vinyl thigh parts after 3 minutes in the dye bath. The darker blue human parts of vinyl parts after a six minute bath.
A few more things: whatever that butt glue was, it liquified in the pot and stuck to stuff. I am not happy about this.
Because parts are thinner in some places and thicker in others, when I pulled a part out of the bath, I would run it under cool water. Then I grabbed my melamine sponge and scrubbed areas where the dye was darker or absorbed funny. Isopropyl alcohol can also help remove some of the dye.
The dye continued to process, even after I rinsed all the parts. When I woke up the next morning, everything was an even more intense blue - especially the vinyl.
My self-imposed max time for resin in a hot water dye bath is 3 minutes. 2-part epoxy resin reacts quickly and hardens to equilibrium - NOT completion. When resin parts are put into almost-boiling hot water, the reaction is reactivated. The resin parts will shrink. I read on a resin manufacturer's website that after 20 minutes, the resin will become extremely brittle and fragile. From past experience, I know that 3 minutes in hot water is enough to make a resin part shrink.
Since the resin parts were dyed for 3 minutes each, this means I will NOT be attempting a gradation with dye. I'll use pastels instead.
But vinyl, however - vinyl can take some heat. Heh heh heh.
Next up: purple!
57 notes
·
View notes
Dyed my Souldoll Junia from NS recently and I’m so pleased with how she came out! I was trying to go for kind of a cooler-toned brown color like the limited resin color she was originally released in, and I think I succeeded. Can’t wait to give this girl a faceup and wig and get her dressed! :)
22 notes
·
View notes