Race
How Diversity Changed Fashion
Prada's advertising campaigns didn't feature a black model for 19 years until Malaika Firth was cast in 2013. Before that, the last model to be featured was Naomi Campbell in 1994, the year Firth was born. After taking over in 2009, Celine's Creative Director Phoebe Philo didn't use any black models in her runway shows until SS14.
Beverly Johnson
Beverly Johnson was born on October 13, 1952, in Buffalo, New York. She began her career in the 1970s and quickly rose to fame, becoming the first African American models to gain mainstream success in the fashion industry.
Her Influence On The Fashion Industry
Beverly Johnson has had a significant influence on the fashion industry. She was the first African-American woman to appear on the cover of Vogue in 1974, breaking barriers and opening doors for models of colour who had been underrepresented in the industry. This was a significant moment in fashion history as it helped pave the way for more diversity and representation in the fashion industry.
In recent years, Johnson has continued to be an advocate for diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry and has been honoured for her contributions to the industry. She continues to be an inspiration and role model for many young woman of colour who are following in her footsteps.
Will SS21 Be A Turning Point For Diversity?
"The fashion industry is one of the most influential industries and must use [its] platform responsibly," decreed Fashion For All Foundation, a non-profit promoting equality and diversity through education and empowerment. "Fashion sets trends, and needs to set the trend on creating an equal society."
Winnie Harlow
At just 25 years old, Canadian model Winnie Harlow has already changed the face of fashion. Since she was discovered by Tyra Banks on the 21st series of America's Top Model in 2014-competing under her real name, Chantelle Brown-Young-she's been central in the move towards a more diverse and inclusive fashion industry.
Harlow may not have won the competition, but she didn't need to. She's fronted campaigns for the likes of of Diesel and MAC Cosmetics, a regular on the catwalk and fashion's front rows and appeared on dozens of magazine covers, all the while raising awareness about her skin condition, vitiligo (which causes patches of pigmentation loss).
Following her first Vogue cover for Vogue Arabia, she said of her journey: "[It's] all to be able to tell, no, SHOW the world that representation matters. That beauty is within the eye of the beholder and no ones 'definition of beauty' should matter but your own".
So, how has Harlow shown us all how it's done in just 5 years? There have been some seriously standout moments both on and off duty. She turned up the sophistication to attend the Christian Dior Haute Couture SS18 show in black tuxedo trousers, open white shirt and thin-frame glasses; before taking a walk on the wilder side in thigh-high leopard boots and a yellow overcoat to attend the 10th anniversary party of Victoria Beckham during London Fashion Week SS19.
Fei Fei Sun
Fei Fei Sun also became a fashion first when she covered “Vogue Italia,” marking the first time a model of East Asian descent appeared on a solo cover for the Italian publication. The Chinese model’s career kicked off when Karl Lagerfeld selected her to walk Chanel’s Paris-Shanghai runway in 2009, and since then she has been a runway and campaign favourite for top fashion houses.
Mona Tougaard
Mona Tougaard has landed some major campaigns in the past several seasons, including Burberry, Chanel, Chloé, Loewe, Max Mara, Prada and Versace. At just 17, the Danish model-whose heritage is a mix of Somalian, Ethiopian, Danish and Turkish-has already graced i-D Magazine’s April 2020 cover and has most recently modelled in Chanel’s pre-fall 2020 show.
Harvard Referencing:
Fig 1. WITKIN, C/TRUNKARCHIVE. (N/A) Supermodel Beverly Johnson. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/beverly-johnson-us-vogues-first-black-cover-star-hit-arrows/. [Accessed: 6th September 2023].
Fig 2. GETTY. (2018) Christian Dior Couture summer/spring 2018. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/how-winnie-harlow-has-changed-the-face-of-fashion-so-far [Accessed: 18th September 2023]
Fig 3. OH, P. (N/A) Shop the Street Look: Fei Fei Sun’s Spin on a Classic. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.vogue.com/article/shop-street-style-fei-fei-sun [Accessed: 25th September 2023]
Fig 4. GETTY. (2021) Mona Tougaard opted for Alaïa for this year’s Fashion Awards. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.voguescandinavia.com/articles/mona/tougaard-paints-the-town-red-at-the-fashion-awards [Accessed: 25th September 2023]
STOPPARD, L. (2016) How Diversity Changed Fashion. [Online] Available from: https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/trends/longform/a31200/diversity-in-fashion/ [Accessed: 18th September 2023]
KUMAR, M. (2023) Beverly Johnson: As a Fashion Icon. [Online] Available from: https://www.tutorialspoint.com/beverly-johnson-as-a-fashion-icon [Accessed: 6th September 2023].
NEWBOLD, A. (2020) Will SS21 Be A Turning Point For Diversity? [Online] Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/diversity-fashion-ss21 [Accessed: 6th September 2023].
VOGUE. (2019) How Winnie Harlow has changed the face of fashion... so far. [Online] Available from: https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/how-winnie-harlow-has-changed-the-face-of-fashion-so-far [Accessed: 18th September 2023]
CAVALLO, A. (2023) 21 Asian Models Who Shaped the Fashion Industry. [Online] Available from: https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/asian-models-fashion-industry-heritage-month [Accessed: 25th September 2023]
HOLZMAN,S. (2020) The Generation of Models to Watch Right Now. [Online] Available from: https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/g32801166/top-models-2020/ [Accessed: 25th September 2023]
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