Addison // 11-24-2023
Well, we did it, we managed to snag a reservation at the nearly impossible to get into newly-minted 3rd-star restaurant in Southern California (the only 3* in SoCal, may we add). Unfortunately for me, this reservation (on a holiday weekend!) happened to overlap with some dental shenanigans, but fortunately for everyone, the team here is so outstanding in their commitment to inclusivity that they managed to put out a meal I could mostly enjoy anyway (with slight modifications).
Setting:
Set near the golf course at the Fairmont Grand Del Mar, you could be forgiven for mistaking the burnt orange exterior for the entrance to a spa or club lounge. That mistake would be quickly remedied at the site of the large wrought-iron door ornamentation, but the inspiration here is far from the quaint cottage of TFL or subtle doorway of Alinea. We passed the time pre-dinner putting on the green, working in a handsome library, and meeting Santa in the surrounding resort. The resort overall is fantastic, the restaurant a little McMansion looking on the outside but handsomely adorned. 8/10.
Service:
As I said, truly spectacular. Dishes were delivered in synchrony, doors were opened exactly on time, but there was a far more relaxed air compared to other places of this caliber that put diners at ease. Our sommelier and head server matched our energy and joked throughout our entire service, with a seamless transition to more formal tones at our adjacent tables. They didn't just go above and beyond accommodating my jaw pain (a huge issue! I could barely do jello!) but also in making us feel welcome and at home at an otherwise precariously nice dinner. Requests were met, service was precise, but never once did we feel under a microscope or fussed over in a bad way. 10/10, this is what fine dining should feel like.
Beverage Service:
Our sommelier and hosts both were very accommodating to our minimal drinking palette, but still paired us with a 99-point champagne that was, unsurprisingly, the best I have every enjoyed personally.
The birthday boy was very excited, his expression nonwithstanding.
Amuse Bouche: "Delivery"
"Oysters, Horseradish, Smoked Roe, Green Apple"
This was a masterclass in flavor. I have had oysters prepared many different ways, in infinite shades of "yep, that's the ocean." This was the first time I've had anything in the mussel, clam or oyster family that tasted spectacular; like a salad that actually clicked right. 10/10
Preludes:
Prelude 1: Sake Cured Kampachi - Nigiri
I wish I had a better photo of this, because the best way to describe this was "leaf-type Pokemon meets leaf-type Poke." Just a perfect semi-sphere of raw fish and fresh vegetables.
Prelude 2: "Chicken Liver Churro, Bitter Chocolate"
Prelude 3: "Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens"
Chicken liver churro was a confusing choice, the textures were good but the ooze of the pate when taking a bite gave me pause. This dip was saved by the deep fried vegetable-laden pillow, featuring vegetables grown from a single origin local garden because of course, why not?
Prelude 4: "Wagyu Tartar, Squid Ink Cracker, Miso Mayo"
I'm not one for uncooked food, but chef Bradley knew how to prep them. This tartare had the perfect texture, and I did not get the classic 'sneaking into the cookie dough' ick factor with the meat's cold texture. Light and fluffy wafer. 8/10.
Prelude 5: "Iberian Ham, Crispy Potato, White Truffles"
Sadly I missed out on some of this fifth appetizer due to the ham, but wow was that texture amazing.
Main Tasting Menu:
Course 1: Kanpachi Sashimi, Preserved Pear, Golden Kiwi, Pichuberry Ponzu
This was hard-mode chopsticks challenge, and I was ready for the test after two weeks in Japan. I have never had better sashimi. 10/10.
Course 2: Shellfish Chawanmushi, Broccoli, Bok Choy, Celtuce
Most of my friends are aware of my disdain for uni. My philosophy is, "if you have to pulverize a food to make it completely unrecognizable for me to like it, I probably do not like it." This uni was prepared such that it was the star of the show but it WAS delicious. Perfectly cooked. No weird tongue texture. Amazing. 7/10 (mainly because I still really do not care for Uni)
Course 3: Regilis Ova Reserve Caviar, Koshihikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon
Okay, I understand why our server said "eggs and rice" is chef's most famous dish. This was unparalleled. This was divine. The caviar is from Thomas Keller's company (there was a letter from him on the kitchen wall, mind you). The rice had a toasted sesame undertone. These were the Dippin' Dots of caviar courses, with both the eggs and rice in perfect spheres. 10/10.
Course 4: Fish & Chips, Toasted Dill, Burnt Onion Dip
I tried this, I shouldn't have, since this and the bread were the only courses too firm for me. Flavor of the dip was tasty, but not special. 5/10.
Course 5: Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Fall, Clam Butter
I don't know what they did to this fish skin but I could eat ten more plates of this course alone. The fish flavor was good, the seasoning was the elevating factor. 8/10.
Course 6: Sourdough Bread, Goat's Milk, Browned Honey Butter
I love red fife sourdough. I had jaw issues. I did not get to enjoy the crush of this bread, but the inside was perfect.
Course 7: Rosemary Roasted Sweetbreads, Pine Nut "Riso," Little Gem
I am not sure if I or my friend got the replacement dish for this one, but whatever it was was really tasty, with breaded chicken served on the side. Everything was cohesive but overall not as memorable as other courses, 7/10.
Course 8: A5 Wagyu, Miso-Eggplant, Matsutake Broth, Black Garlic
Chef Bradley clearly has a talent for pulling together spectacular flavors, and cooking meats (mostly seafoods) in a creative and fresh light. Unfortunately, this wagyu (a $250+ supplement!) was not it. It was dry, it was not served hot (warm), and it was tough with poor marbling. I'm going to hazard to say the cut was bad rather than the kitchen did not prepare it well, but honestly I've had 5oz cuts in similar caliber restaurants for far cheaper than this supplement with five times the flavor. This was the only miss of the whole night and not part of the main menu, so the menu can still be judged on its merits as outstanding. Unfortunately, for this course, 1-2/10.
Course 9: Yuzu Custard, Mint, Ceremonial Matcha
This palette cleanser was light, flavorful, the perfect intro to sweet, and made with gorgeous ceremonial-grade matcha (which I now vaguely can differentiate after dozens of matchas in Japan). This is the Speak Now album of tasting menus - the perfect transition between Mains (country) and Desserts (pop). 9/10.
Desserts:
Everything we were served was good, rich, and seasonal. Was it as diverse as some other dessert menus we've had? No. Was it still a series of hit after hit? Yes. Everything was very elevated, but felt casually delivered (in a good way) and focused, mimicking the elegant-but-relaxed feel of the whole dinner.
Dessert 1: Cocoa Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, Toasted Fluff
It's chocolate mousse, with chocolate accoutrements. It was good. It is mousse. You all know my thoughts on mousse. No numbers, just 'good!'
Dessert 2: Berry-Beet Tartlette, Verjus, Vanilla
Oh my god the TEXTURE. Amazing. Delightful! You expect 'maraschino cherry' and get 'gelatinous galaxy cake and floral salad medley'
Dessert 3: Bitter Chocolate Wafer, Pistachio, Sour Cherry Jam
Oh yay, more mousse. Tasty, light. But mousse.
Dessert 4: Caramelized Honey Bonbon, Almonds, Ginger, Rosemary
I couldn't eat fast enough to bite into this at the perfect moment, but the flavors and textures were clearly the peak of this dessert course. Think of a frozen cream puff left to thaw, except made out of spectacular ingredients, infused with notes of lavender and rose water (these are not in it but these are the notes I tasted). Wow, 9/10.
Dessert 5: Tres Leches, White Truffle
It's crunchy, it has truffle, therefore it was less accessible to me than other choices tonight. That being said, Tony gave it a 10/10, so it has the foodie badge of approval.
Final Thoughts:
This dinner was divine. I feel proud to be a Southern Californian able to experience such an amazing achievement in my own backyard, and share sincere congrats to Chef Bradley and team for their (long-overdue, based on friends' reports) third star. If you want pretention in fine dining, this is not for you. It is not an instagram name-drop, there are not iconic indoor backdrops to peep, the name recognition isn't there with TFL and Alinea - yet. But if you want a spectacular meal, delivered by earnest people, who have a love and passion for the local and international landscape and want to deliver it to you? Yes, come here. Overall thoughts, 9/10, but as with all things that is subjective. I loved my experience, I would return for the people alone (just maybe not the wagyu). It took me months to land this one, and it was very well worth it.
Happy Birthday again to my foodie partner in crime, Tony!
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