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#histoire de parfums
moratoirenoir · 23 days
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pipiteer · 5 months
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the problem with getting really into fragrances is that i do catch myself sniffing myself and it's like. the omegaverse is real and it's out there
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odoroussavourssweet · 6 months
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Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 2 Virginale
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Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 2 Virginale
notes: tuberose, cherry, tangerine; tuberose, frangipani, tiare, jasmine; tuberose, vanilla, patchouli, woody notes
Tubereuse 2 takes a while to develop. In the first hour or two it's sheer and subtle, even with a high volume of application. But then it becomes very much what it is, which is a big sweet girly tuberose, with touches of tropical flowers and bright fruit. It's heavy, it's extroverted, and it's a little bit obnoxious.
Now, I like tuberose, and I don't mind loud perfumes, and it smells very natural and high-quality to me...but it has a personality. I'm not getting "shy virgin." More like Bette Midler.
The powdery fruity-floral aspect reminds me of Zoologist Hummingbird, a bit, though I like Hummingbird much better. Tubereuse 2 doesn't have either Hummingbird's aldehydic elegance or its sheer enthusiasm.
It sticks around all day, doing its big warm tuberosey thing.
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parfumieren · 9 months
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Happy Birthday, Mata Hari...
Today (August 7th) is the birthday of Margaretha Geertruida Zelle MacLeod-- the dancer, sex symbol, and spy better known as Mata Hari. What scent best suits the occasion? Perhaps the ghost of the guest of honor will guide my hand...
First, a bit about Margaretha. Forcibly transplanted to colonial Java by a philandering husband, this young Dutch-born mail-order bride found comfort in studying traditional Indonesian dance. A local dance troupe proved supportive-- as did one of her husband's fellow Army officers, with whom she absconded from her marital prison. In 1897, she renamed herself "The Eye of the Day" and freed herself from domestic bondage for once and for all.
Today, we remember Mata Hari as an infamous World War I double agent whose life ended in front of a firing squad. But in her heyday, she - alongside Isadora Duncan, Loïe Fuller, and Ruth Saint Denis - ushered in an era of "sacred dance", which incorporated tribal, ceremonial, and contemporary movement, fusing East and West.
In fact, it's this sense of emerging from one matrix to immerse oneself in another that makes Mata Hari and Guerlain's Elixir Charnel Oriental Brûlant a heavenly match. At once simple and sumptuous, Oriental Brûlant excels at bridging cultures through scent as deftly as its namesake did through dance.
It begins with a dense sweet top note that says "vanilla" in as many languages as it can. As it progresses, it becomes more transparent, ascending from deepest plum to the aforementioned misty mauve, where it seems to pause and hold its breath. There it remains for hours and hours-- comforting, reassuring, never cloying or annoying, a mystical scent meditation.
Inasmuch as Spanish jijona turrón, Italian torrone, French nougat, German marzipan, Czech turecký med, Israeli halvah, Turkish loukhoum, Indian halwa, Japanese yōkan, and American fudge all lie on the same confectionary spectrum, one can trace the path of a single idea spurred by common hunger across a hundred national boundaries in its quest for manifestation. And actually, candy isn't a bad metaphor for Oriental Brûlant, which smells like an imported sweet concocted from honey, orangeflower water, and almond paste layered between fragile sheets of rice paper. It's an uncommon dessert of the high-calorie variety. It may be an acquired taste for some, but not me-- I was charmed by it from the first.
A side note: Oriental Brûlant is tinted pale mauve, a hue historically associated with a number of contradictory social conventions. Invented in 1856 by Sir William Henry Perkin, "mauveine" dye became popular as a half-mourning color for women in transition from a state of bereavement. By the Gay Nineties -- dubbed the "Mauve Decade" by social essayist Thomas Beer -- the color had amassed a following among artists, poets, and mystics whose social and sexual mores ran counter to those of the establishment. Oscar Wilde, Aubrey Beardsley, Aleister Crowley… and of course Mata Hari.
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In my perfume travels, I have found to my dismay that all saffron perfumes smell alike in the end. What seemed extraordinarily novel the first time I encountered it (in Olivia Giacobetti's Safran Troublant, to which I remain imperishably hooked) now seems as uniform as if die-stamped by machine.
Time and again, saffron is paired off with the same old partners -- rose, cardamom, steamed milk, sandalwood -- only to end up carrying them all on her broad back. I'm certain she gets weary of these arrangements, but is too mild-mannered to say so. Like a superhero recruited not to some global justice league but the local PTA, she gamely offers to run the next bake sale, knowing full well she'll end up saving the world.
What if saffron took a holiday?
Histoires de Parfums' 1876 Mata Hari is one of the best saffron perfumes I've ever smelled... only it doesn't have a lick of saffron in it. All of her usual dance partners have gathered in one place to scratch their heads at the saffron-shaped vacancy in their midst. Where is she? they're thinking. Not me: I'm getting too big of a kick out of watching the gang sweat bullets at the prospect of doing all the heavy lifting.
Luckily, everyone pitches in and gets this baby off the ground. Rose and sandalwood know all the steps, and lychee provides the fresh perspective of a newcomer to the scene. Substitute cumin for cardamom? Yes, please-- it makes for a slightly more ballsy drydown in place of the usual oeufs à la neige. All together, 1876's components do such a good job of filling in for the missing piece that you'd swear she was present and accounted-for the whole time.
If Guerlain's Oriental Brûlant is our antiheroine all dressed up in her stage costume (beads dripping, headdress sparkling), I'd have to say that 1876 is Mata Hari in civilian clothes. To be sure, they are beautifully cut, perfectly proportioned, and wildly expensive as befits the wardrobe of a demimondaine-- but they are unobtrusive enough to allow her to pass through society without attracting too much attention. So skillful is 1876's air of olfactory misdirection that, applied with a light touch, it could make the wearer damn near invisible.
But perhaps that is exactly what you want. After all, a good spy does well to remain incognito.
Scent Elements: Tonka bean, almond, vanilla, styrax, clementine (Elixir Charnel Oriental Brûlant); bergamot, orange, lychee, rose, iris, violet, carnation, cumin, cinnamon, vetiver, guaiac, sandalwood (1876 Mata Hari)
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persolaise · 10 months
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Top 10 Best Citrus Perfumes - Zesty Lip-Lickers
On your marks. Get set. Peel! -- My list of the Top 10 best #citrus #perfumes.
It was time to get tart over on my YouTube channel the other day when I ended the current run of episodes with a presentation of my Top 10 best citrus perfumes. Here’s a link to the video, followed by a complete list of the fragrances I covered, with timestamps, for those who want to cut to the chase: Top 10 best citrus perfumes. Continue reading Untitled
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angelitam · 2 days
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Parfums chyprés
Parfums chyprés, intenses et magnétiques. Mitsouko de Guerlain Un accord majeur facetté de fleurs, de fruits et d’animalité qui fait scintiller un art du clair-obscur pour inspires les parfumeurs et chavirer les cœurs. Parfums chyprés C’est un accord de matières premières qui forme la famille olfactive la plus riche, la plus énigmatique, la plus audacieuse. Le terme vient de l’île de Chypre –…
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thefashionfold · 5 months
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Some perfumes make me want them simply for the bottle - this is Ceci n'est pas un Flacon Bleu 1.3 by Histoires de Parfums. This collection of perfums is named after René Magritte's La Trahison des Images (The Treachery of Images) painting which shows a pipe and the words Ceci n’est pas une pipe (This is not a pipe).
I've picked out five brands with beautiful bottles and chosen three fragrances from each brand, read more here.
Image by The Fashion Fold
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javierfashionbazar · 10 months
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AMBRE 114 ES UNA AUTÉNTICA JOYA NICHO
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Histoires De Parfums
Nel 2000 Gérald Ghislain, Maestro Profumiere con un passato trascorso nel mondo dell’alta cucina, crea Histoires de Parfums, una Biblioteca Olfattiva che racconta storie di personaggi famosi, di anni mitici, di poemi e di musica. Con la sua collezione di fragranze perpetua il know-how della Haute Parfumerie francese, la ricercatezza delle materie prime, la nobiltà e la creatività. Quando compone…
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barbudeville · 2 years
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La jasette du Barbu #340
La jasette du Barbu #340
UFC: Volkov VS Rozenstruik  J. Roy 1er match le parfum  bureau en gros One-TimeMonthlyYearly Faire un don ponctuelFaire un don mensuelFaire un don annuel Choose an amount C$5.00C$15.00C$100.00C$5.00C$15.00C$100.00C$5.00C$15.00C$100.00 Or enter a custom amount C$ Votre contribution est appréciée.Votre contribution est appréciée.Votre contribution est appréciée. Faire un donFaire un don…
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moratoirenoir · 24 days
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donfantasmaa · 8 days
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Perfumes Inspired by Phantom of The Opera
I’ve compiled a list of perfumes relating to POTO. My criteria was based on three things:
Things that can be interpreted as direct references to the book or ALW musical
Perfumes that could realistically have been worn by actual characters
Vibes
I am sorry that a lot of these quite expensive, I personally only own them in my dreams.
Erik:
Black Phantom - By Killian
This one is self explanatory. It’s a sweet and boozey coffee scent
Angel - Mulger
Also self explanatory. Both a well loved and a well hated perfume, there’s a good change you already own this
Death and Decay - Lush
To smell like Erik’s hands of course
Dead Sexy - Tokyo Milk
You know why. Woody vanilla scent
Christine:
Everything & Nothing - Tokyo Milk
“Little Lotte thought of everything and nothing…”
1889 Moulin Rouge - Histoires de Parfums
Not the right year but this is the ultimate Belle Époque Parisian performer scent. It’s a powdery makeup-y smell, probably what backstage at the Garnier smells like.
Wedding Bouquet - Floris
All those flowers Erik bought for the wedding
Lily of the Valley - Floris
Made in 1847, this realistically could’ve been worn by Christine, and I think it suits her well. It’s a fresh citrusy floral, with violet, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and ofc lily of the valley
Raoul:
Acqua di Colonia - Santa Maria Novella
Created in 1533 in one of the oldest perfumeries in the world in Florence, a fashionable and worldly gent like Raoul might’ve worn this.
Insolence - Guerlain
“INSOLENT BOY!!”
Beach Walk - Maison-Martin-Margiela
Raoul running into the sea to fetch the red scarf
Under the Stars - Maison-Martin-Margiela
Where Raoul and Christine kiss and everything goes wrong
As a bonus, here’s one that reminds me of the fanfic By Starlight by wheel_of_fish because it’s my fav:
Clandestine Clara - Penhaligon’s
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odoroussavourssweet · 10 months
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Histoires de Parfums 1828
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Histoires de Parfums 1828
notes: eucalyptus, citrus, grapefruit, tangerine; nutmeg, pepper; pine, cedar, incense, vetiver
My first thought upon sniffing this is “Dad would love this!”
He probably wouldn’t; I shudder to think what would happen if I actually bought him a $210 bottle of perfume. But the bone-dry abstract cologne opening of 1828 reminds me of something my dad used to wear when I was a kid. And, as such, it gives me an unbelievably powerful scent memory. All’s right with the world, you are being hugged by your Daddy who knows how to do everything, who can draw a horse with realistic musculature and speaks every language in the world and knows things about cars and airplanes…
more prosaically, it’s a dry, crisp, gray-green, classically abstract masculine scent chord. Luca Turin calls it “direct, effortless, virile elegance” and he’s right.
there’s a sort of late-90’s “hi-tech” radiance about the aromachemicals — it was released in 2001, after all— and some commenters think it smells like cK One. In my book, that’s no bad thing; there’s nothing wrong with clean, crisp aromachemicals if they’re done right, and (say it with me now) The 90s Were Good Actually.
a few minutes in, 1828 has a warmer, mellower creamy-spicy brown nuance (the nutmeg?) complementing the dry bitter pale-green opening.
and half an hour in, there’s a pale coumarin (tonka?) glow underlying the whole thing…while it still retains its dry crisp freshness and aura of masculine expertise.
An hour in, 1828 has landed, in a creamy-spicy (yet still light and radiant) coumarin-nutmeg place, ivory flecked with copper. It reminds me slightly of the cheerful masculine vanilla-tonka note in The Third Man; it’s innocent, honest joy, a guy whistling unselfconsciously in the bright air.
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parfumieren · 1 year
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1828: Jules Verne (Histoires de Parfums)
The tallship has just crossed the equator. A junior sailor, newly initiated into the Court of Neptune, descends into the cargo hold. His line-crossing ceremony took place only this morning; his skin is still salty from repeated baptismal drenchings with ocean water. Just for tonight -- as officers and crew celebrate with glasses of port and tankards of rum in their respective mess halls -- he has the run of the place and can go where he likes. Here is where he likes to go.
In the darkness below deck loom crates of lemons, limes, and oranges, barrels of rum and aqua vitae, bundles of Virginia tobacco, and cedar caskets full of spices. The wood -- already fragrant on its own accord -- has been permeated by the scent of nutmeg and black pepper, producing a wholly new and curious fragrance which lifts the sailor's heart. His apprenticeship before the mast has been toilsome and often doubtful. Years from now, skin calloused by work, heart hardened by defeat and sorrow, he may well become as jaded as the toothless, wizened old-timers who barked in laughter at his initiation. But tonight, he belongs to this ship, and it belongs to him. Everything about it -- its crew and cargo, the wide sea upon which it sails -- is beautiful. Curled up in a coil of rope in the full-laden hold, at peace with life's vagaries, he closes his eyes. It comes to him, seconds before sleep descends, that he has never known pure happiness until now. Let the wind and waves rise...
Perfume, like any art form, is a form of storytelling. Every vial of fragrance contains layers upon layers of narrative to be guessed at by the wearer. Sometimes the perfumer's brief provides clues to the plot; other times, it's left to the imagination to interpret all.
1828 is dedicated to the French author Jules Verne, whose fascination with technology and mechanical innovation paved the way for modern science fiction writers such as Philip K. Dick and William Gibson, and has been a primary influence on the steampunk movement. Transportation is a particular fetish of Verne's; submarines (20,000 Leagues Under the Sea), transatlantic steamships and cross-continental trains (Around the World in 80 Days), cannon-propelled spaceships (From the Earth to the Moon), and lighter-than-air craft (The Mysterious Island) all symbolize the quickened pace and boundary-breaking spirit of 19th century life.
Oddly, the perfume named in Jules Verne's honor is neither sleek, fast, nor futuristic. Rather, it is a nostalgia piece, an evocation of an era predating that of the great author: the age of tallships, of Horatio Lord Nelson and the Napoleonic Wars.
Up until 1810, Myristica fragrans -- the tree from which nutmeg and its sister spice mace are derived -- grew nowhere else on earth but Banda, a tiny volcanic island chain east of Indonesia. For nearly 200 years, the Dutch occupied Banda, maintaining a complete monopoly of the nutmeg trade worldwide. But once the British Royal Navy managed to wrest control of the island from the Netherlands, transplanted nutmeg trees began to dot the globe.
To the modern-day nose, the scent of nutmeg still evokes quaint colonial comforts. It's a resolutely anachronistic smell -- and although it would seem to have little to do with the ocean, a nutmeg accord properly embedded in a marine composition will "read" like a Patrick O'Brian Aubrey/Maturin novel.
But where is Jules Verne's place in all this? It's in the clockworks, the gears, the mechanical accoutrements that set 1828 to humming. The trick that this perfume pulls off -- superbly -- is to place a wonderful piece of old-timey scrimshaw in a spare, minimalist, and thoroughly modern setting so that one can no longer tell what century (the 18th? the 26th?) it hails from.
A breezy citrus top note greets the nose first, paired with the smallest touch of eucalyptus to make it fly. A strong middle section of straightforward wood notes lulls you into thinking that perhaps the liveliest moments are over, but at last a radiant nutmeg accord sets in-- rich, cool, weighty, and smooth. This is a scent both Horatio Hornblower and Captain Nemo could wear. (Heck, throw in Morpheus from The Matrix while you're at it. What is the Nebuchadnezzar, anyway, except a supermodern Nautilus adrift in dystopia?)
When a perfume has the power to set all sorts of mental plotlines into motion, you might as well make yourself the hero: steely-eyed, soft-hearted, and guaranteed a new adventure at every latitude.
First, though, you must hear the call of wind and wave.
Scent Elements: Grapefruit, citrus, mandarin, eucalyptus, pepper, nutmeg, cedar, incense, vetiver, pine
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persolaise · 4 months
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Top 10 Baroque Perfumes - Rich, Detailed, Ornate Scents
Here's my list of Top 10 Baroque perfumes: rich, detailed scents, full of striking contrasts.
Few things can dispel the winter gloom as effectively as perfume — especially if you choose a scent that’s distinctive, dramatic and full of striking contrasts. A Baroque perfume, you might say. So, in order to do my bit for warding off the hibernal doldrums, over on YouTube, I presented a list of my Top 10 Baroque perfumes, with each fragrance connected to a key piece of Baroque art — no mean…
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angelitam · 9 months
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Le néroli de L'Artisan Parfumeur
L’Artisan Parfumeur célèbre le néroli en parfums. Histoire d’Orangers L’Artisan Parfumeur Le néroli est issu des fleurs de bigaradier. Il est connu pour son parfum délicat et solaire. L’Artisan Parfumeur présente quelques fragrances qui mêlent harmonieusement le néroli à des notes florales, épicées et boisées. Le néroli de L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoire d’Orangers de L’Artisan Parfumeur pour…
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