Île de Brehât
September 28, 2023
Another overcast day and cool but so what!?! Without Carl this time, we headed to the ferry that would take us first around île de Bre-hât (pronounced "Eel de Bree - at") and then to the Island. We have only 2 more full days in this region and we are going to milk it for all it is worth. Below are some views from our trip around the island. There was a running commentary - but it was all in French. Francoise voiced her complaint about that after we disembarked.
The trip around the island took about and hour and it is a beautiful place and as you can see by the map below the "island" is a series of islands. There is one village with homes and shops spread out throughout the "Île." And farms. There are 380 people who live here fulltime, but during the summer the population swells to almost 5,000. The island government (they have a mayor and city council) just put a limit of 4,100people per day cap citing '"over-touristing" as the reason.
We approached during low tide and it was low.
During high tide the ferry would dock on the big dock by the houses you see on the left (above)or right here (below)
Lots of famous people have had vacation homes there - for example Marc Chagall, where he painted this:
"La fenêtre de l'Ile de Brehat"
But "whatever" for Chagall, the person I am most interested in was Francoise's grandmother who was a teacher on the island when the language she and her students' spoke, Breton, was "supressed" and the suppression enforced
France has never officially banned the Breton language, but it has been subjected to policies that have led to its decline and marginalization.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the French government implemented a policy of "assimilation" aimed at suppressing regional languages like Breton, which it saw as a threat to national unity. This policy included the imposition of French as the only official language, the banning of regional languages in schools, and the discouragement of their use in public life. As a result, many Breton speakers were forced to switch to French, and the language began to decline rapidly.
Francoise's grandmother suddenly had to teach in a language that was not her native tongue. Francoise's grandfather was also a teacher experiencing the same thing, but in Paimpol. They were not married at the time. After they married, grandmother, by law, could no longer teach - you know, married women and work was a no-no. What did happen was that Breton - the language of the young married couple - was no longer their language. Perhaps, their children spoke Breton and French - but for Francoise and Gabby their native language was French. Neither speak Breton now. I find that transition fascinating.
But, back to this enchanting island.
We got off the ferry and walked up the LONG sidewalk to the city. That sidewalk is used at low tide and then disappears as the tide goes up leaving tidal pools everywhere. Remember, this region has a tide of 4 to 6 metres.
We walked past where the ferry would be docking in less than 5 five hours and on into the main village square. There are no cars allowed on this island - but there are tractors and many of them pulling trailers of hay or seed bags or crops. Now, I am not talking about huge tractors that take up 1.5 lanes on a road - these a much smaller tractors because they have MUCH smaller roads.
This might look like a sidewalk - but NOPE - it is a road.
Stone is the building material and the houses, barns and fences are beautiful and meant to last.
Also a reminder - NO cars but bikes are good. We did not see many though - very different than Michigan's Mackinac Island
This is a hiker's paradise and trails criss cross the entire island.
We opted to have lunch in the main square
I had the island specialty - Moules y Frites. Mussles and Fries. OMG!!! Scrumptious!!! Plus I learned to eat them like a local.
It was cool and occasionally spitting rain- so we opted to eat under an umbrella. Annie was with us - but I cropped her out of this pic because she is a beautiful human being but able to screw her face up something awful - which I captured on this pic - so no to that! Annie - you are welcome!
After lunch we took a little tour on this:
We went all over the island - sometimes down little lanes that I was sure would not fit our little train- but no crashing or even scraping - although we couldn't have had more than 5 inches on each side - more than once. We saw lots of places dealing with the tide and lots of places that were just beautiful. We saw lots of people living their daily life. We saw churches and cemeteries.
We finished our tour and headed back to the ferry - on a much shorter sidewalk. We guessed that the next ferry would be docking at the end of the city dock. We headed back to Francois' home. We all had some down time and then dinner and cards. Sadly, Francois and I lost to Mark and Carl but tomorrow we will have our sweet revenge. Carl is much improved and feels the day off was a good idea.
Tomorrow we will use some of our time to pack and prepare to leave early on Saturday AM. But we don't need the whole day for that - so stay tuned.
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Chateau Brehat, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, 2019. With crunchy tacos.
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Quelles sont les plus belles îles de Bretagne ?
Quelles sont les plus belles îles de Bretagne ?
Les îles de la bretagne, si certaines ne sont que récifs battus par les vagues et sculptés par la mer, d’autres, plus importantes (séparées du continent par la montée générale des eaux après la fonte des glaces au Quaternaire), forment de petits mondes isolés, habités par de rudes et courageux pêcheurs.
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Île de Brehat, refuge corsaires des îles de Bretagne
Les Sept-îles
Île de…
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