Tirada De Tarot Económico Y Efectivo, tarot egipcio del amor
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J'appelle cette étape : la Galice paysanne. Parti pour une étape de 33km (réservation à Ferreiros) un choix s'impose au départ : soit prendre l'itinéraire via Samos (ce qui nous rajoute 7 km) soit poursuivre el camino Francès . Nous sommes sages et restons sur notre étape initiale.
Et je dois dire que ce côté-là n'est pas mal du tout, avec traversé de nombreuses fermes, chemins sous les arbres, que j'apprécie en fin de parcours car soleil commence à chauffer.
Nous aurons l'occasion de nous désaltérer à plusieurs reprises, dans des bars ou vente au milieu d'un village en Donativo. A midi ce sera assiette de charcuterie et fromage à Sarria.
Sarria, ville de début d'étape pour les cent derniers km. Il faut savoir que pour obtenir la compostela, il faut au minimum parcourir les cent derniers km avec 2 validations par jour (tampons sur la Crédencial). Donc on a vu débarquer des américaines, (mais pas que...) avec d'énormes valises, qui demain partiront vers Compostelle avec portage des bagages. "Chacun son chemin".
Nous avons choisi, justement d'aller plus loin que Sarria pour, au moins sur une journée, éviter la foule sur le chemin, je vous en dirai plus demain. Nous avons établi notre halte à Ferreiros à un peu moins d'un km de la borne cent km. Déjà presque arrivé...
It was about a 12 mile day in the end, but carrying our backpacks to see how Jane would get on.
We set off at 7:20 saying cheerio to Dieter who was having breakfast, and to Fraser, an Australian we had met at Casa Susi and have been leapfrogging with. It’s still cold in the mornings so had coats on.
The path went gradually downhill with stunning views of the hills and mist in the valleys.
There was a cafe open in the second village down so we stopped for breakfast. We’re going to miss the toast, freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee. The cafe had some great wood carvings outside, though the Neanderthal man was a bit scary.
We came across a very cute herd of cows and calves and also discovered the Cymru Am Byth vandals have now switched to black spray paint.
At the bottom of the mountain we landed in Triacastela where we took a diversionary path to the left that would take us to Samos.
The path followed the edge of the quiet main road for a while with a large drop at the side down to a river. At one point we came across a memorial stopping point and there was yet another letter to Pilgrims.
We left the road and the path wound its way through some incredibly lush green countryside and through an old village full of locals pottering about. Everything looked a bit well worn and reminded us of some if the little off the beaten track villages in West Wales.
After quite a lot more ups and downs than we expected we eventually arrived in Samos about 1:30. It’s famous for its monastery which looks stunning. You can do guided tours which we thought we’d do at 5:30.
After checking into our hostel (bottom bunks again, yippee!) we set out to find some food. The cafe next door was only doing sandwiches but we managed to find a local restaurant where we got a burger.
Back at the hostel it was time for a shower and a chill. Jane popped out to sit in the sun. I joined her in a while at the local bar talking to Rian from last night and Dieter who had not long arrived.
Rian told us about an old cypress tree we had to visit and hug and you could also paddle in the river there.
We went off to the monastery for 5:30, got our tickets, then just as we were waiting a huge coach load of Spanish tourists turned up! There was another tour at 6:30 so we gave up and went to hug the tree first, then sat in the sunshine eating an ice cream.
The tour at 6:30 was interesting, even if it was in Spanish. The monastery had a fire in 1951 so quite a lot of it had to be rebuilt and there were some interesting modern religious paintings on the walls.
There was to be a mass at 7:30 so when the tour ended in the church we nipped out and had a glass of wine with Rian and Fraser who was also on the tour with us, before booking our flights home. We’ll be back on Friday 26th.
Days 27 through 33, Laguna la Castilla, Triacastela, Sarria, Portomarín, Palas de Reí, Ribadiso de Baixo, O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela
Wrapping up now, the last eight days were a whirlwind of hiking with family and friends through the mountains of Galicia, often through calf-deep, muddy puddles and sideways, nor’easter style rain.
This entertainment segment of the trip - with much food, drink and laughter and including Natalie, Tom, Jessica and Jeff as guest pilgrims - helped as a transition for me away from pilgrim life and back to the real world. Not gonna lie, it’s going to take me a minute to readjust to a regular routine.
Once in Santiago, I received my Compostela that certifies I completed the Camino and I attended the Pilgrim mass, the Botafumeiro swinging 60 meters overhead to disperse incense and the Holy Spirit.
And so it ends. I am thankful to have received the gift of time to make this journey and for all the support and love received throughout that made it possible and so very memorable.
After walking 500 miles in 33 days, my plan is to keep walking. Look for me on the bridge in South Portland on the way to work or crisscrossing the marsh neighborhoods of Scarborough, hanging on to my Camino vibe.
And wherever you are headed, I wish you a Buen Camino!
In Sarria658.0 km completed.114.9 km to go.
從Triacastela去到Sarria有兩條路,一條是會經過小鎮Samos 大約24km,另一條則是直達路線18km左右,最後我們選擇了較長的路線。
路上遇到前一天才認識的 Johnny。Johnny 是個五十多歲的荷蘭阿叔,他前一日邀請我們去到他河邊的營地飲酒,最後我一人赴會,我來的時候,他正在和兩個西班牙青年聊天,我又加入聊天小組,西班牙青年住在Madrid,襯暑假兩人結��前來,由Leon��
Because it’s a day off, I had the time to focus on some math. In particular, I was interested in the math related to the completion of our journey.
All along, I’ve been thinking that we had 15 total “walking days.” Well, I was wrong. I think my confusion was caused by the fact that we finish in Santiago on the 15th. Now that I’ve looked ahead to my final index card, I see that we only have 14 walking days. Thus, the math for today starts with the #14.
We all know that 14 divided by 2 is 7. We’ve now completed 8 days of walking. Thus, we’ve completed more than half of our walking days. We’re on the back end! For you real math freaks, we’ve actually completed 57% of our walking days. [(8 divided by 14) x 100]
When we started on Day 1, in Leon, we had 195 miles to Santiago. The distance to Santiago from Triacastela is only 85 miles. Thus, we’ve already covered 110 miles (195-85). That means that we’ve now covered 56% of the total distance [(110 divided by 195) x 100]
It’s a total coincidence that we’ve completed 56% of the distance over 57% of the time. The good news is that the most difficult days are behind us. The remaining 44% is easier.
Speaking of math, I’ve had a revelation about Walking Day #12- -which, coincidentally, occurs on July 12th. I’ve been slightly concerned about that day. My index card says the distance is 19.75 miles. It’s a long distance. For unique reasons, I had to plan that day from two different maps. Now that I’ve looked at both maps again, I think there is some overlap and the 19.75 is overstated. The actual distance might be a mile shorter. I’m feeling better about Day #12.
Overall, I’m feeling really good about the whole trip. Saint James is clearly watching over us. Today for instance, is our day off. It’s been drizzling all morning. It’s the first rain that we’ve seen. We can stay inside today, so we don’t care a bit. Thanks, Santiago.
Triacastela is a very old Pilgrim town with a long history. In the Middle Ages, Pilgrims headed towards Santiago would stay here after fighting their way through the mountains. Many of them would be in rough shape. The town was once home to multiple hospitals for Pilgrims. It was also home to three castles. That’s why it is called “Triacastela.” (Get it?) The castles are long gone.
There’s not much to see or do here. It’s a quiet place. The “Main Street” has six or eight places for Pilgrims to stay. All of them have a cafe. There is a grocery store and a bread store. During breaks in the rain, we toured the town. Otherwise, we stayed in our room and chilled. There’s a reason that God invented the Kindle and gave one to GC1.
On one of our walks, we bumped into Nick and Sally from England. They’re probably our closest Camino friends. They’re a nice couple in their 60s. After a morning walk in the rain, they got here today. Nick and GC1 amuse each other by telling offensive jokes about GC2. Every time they see each other, they share the new jokes that they’ve concocted during their solitary time on the trail. Is that how Pilgrims are supposed to spend their time? Would Saint James approve?
Speaking of Saint James, the Church in Triacastela is the most interesting building in town. It’s small. The original part was built in the late 1100s. Later, there were two or three small additions. The last addition was in the 1790s. It sits in the center of a small cemetery. Both the guidebook and the Church website said that there would be a Mass there at 6:00 p.m. tonight. Along with about eight other Pilgrims, we attempted to go. The Church was locked. At 6:10 p.m., we all called it quits. Maybe Saint James isn’t watching over us after all.
So, we’re back at it tomorrow. We hope that you got some rest today. We only have six days left. We hike for the first four days, have our final day off, and finish with two relatively easy days. We’re feeling strong. We hope that you’re strong too. We’ll see you out there.