Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period
AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!
For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".
You'll find the transliteration below cut:
The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)
Find more about the exact titles here.
一位 Ichii (First court rank)
三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)
Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank)
Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun
Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)
Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;
The clan/families - Kamei 家名
徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)
尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)
三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)
旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)
第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.
礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.
通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular
formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.
平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit
Type of outfits
Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.
束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.
衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai
布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai
直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe
狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests
直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.
長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama
半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama
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Nikoichi - Exodus duet translation from the first Aitsu ga Kamite de Shimote ga Boku de character song album
tl under a break
tokiura kai is played by aramaki yoshihiko, and shima seiki by wada masanari
nikoichi (lit two parts one) is a term that refers to taking parts from two broken machines to make one that works which is a terrible comparison to them, thank you i hate it. also please bear with my localisation of shimasan’s speech patterns leave me alone ok
Tokiura
I got washed up
to this shore, covered in trash
I stubbornly decided
I was going to fight on my own
Shima
How long are these guys gonna keep playin’ around?
Running off and making excuses
I really do want to do comedy
I’m serious about it
And the two of us
Finally met by chance
Shima
I’ve been waitin’ every day
Just to meet ya
Tokiura
I’m not waiting a second
You’re such a nuisance
Always smooth-talking
Wanting attention
Shima
I was drawn to ya like a magnet
We just clicked
The directions we take to our goal
Might conflict, but we won’t let go
Tokiura
I want to try out the things I want to do
Shima
You’re funny, but your jokes’re too complicated
They’re missing a li’l more thought
That’s how it is
And so our dream starts to move
Tokiura
I really believe in you, I do
You can make good use of that silver tongue
Shima
You really believe in me?
That actually feels kinda gross
Tokiura
You’ve got the power
to turn anything into a joke
A partner that I can rely on,
that I’m saved by
I just always want
(Shima: to make you laugh)
(Tokiura: you to make me laugh)
Shima
I want you to laugh
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𝐋𝐄𝐓'𝐒 𝐏𝐋𝐀𝐘 𝐀 𝐆𝐀𝐌𝐄 ! - 𝟏𝐊 𝐅𝐎𝐋𝐋𝐎𝐖𝐄𝐑𝐒 𝐄𝐕𝐄𝐍𝐓 𝐌𝐀𝐒𝐓𝐄𝐑𝐋𝐈𝐒𝐓
━ JABAMI YUMEKO ;
elegance and sophistication
come around again
━ MARY SAOTOME ;
never lost, always found
egotistic
━ KIRARI MOMOBAMI ;
bitter coffee
the queen’s hand
two sides of the same coin
━ RIRIKA MOMOBAMI ;
the bonded feelings
never an option
open the noble heart
better fashion sense
to love you like this
━ SAYAKA IGARASHI ;
a soulmate who wasn’t meant to be
source fours and fan wars
━ TERANO TOTOBAMI ;
us against the enmity
a love’s disappearance
heart-shaped symphony
roundabout of life
injured vows
━ RIN OBAMI ;
disguised love
disguised love pt. ii
under other circumstances
magical reckoning
specialty
━ IBARA OBAMI ;
eternally promised, mortally broken
━ SUMIKA WARAKUBAMI ;
red carpets and spotlights
━ MIYO INBAMI ;
mission complete
━ REI BATSUBAMI ;
cold, cold heart
━ AOI MIBUOMI ;
loveless marriage
wish it wasn’t you
ruin our friendship
━ NOBUYA SERA ;
better luck next time
━ NAGI KAMISHIMO ;
another wish
━ TSUZURA HANATEMARI ;
where's prince charming
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Jishaku na Bokura (We’re Like Magnets) - Amagen duet translation from the first Aitsu ga Kamite de Shimote ga Boku de character song album
this is like the second song i had to translate with a magnet comparison what the hell
amano mamoru is umetsu mizuki’s character, and genda eiichi is jinnai sho
Genda
A bright light that pulled me from the edge of a cliff
Cool as you are, you’re a diamond in the rough for sure
Amano
The temperature difference is too high, I’ll get burnt
I’m quite perplexed
Genda
Even if this is the last chance,
I won’t have any regrets
This is
Buzzing, a whole ammonite
We’re like magnets, at opposite poles
It might just be temporary...this isn’t a fantasy ok? Alright!
Shabaduba let’s create
We can’t be cut apart even if you try
Genda
Dreaming of the moment that (temp.) is removed,
I say goodnight today too
Amano
I’ll be taking my leave today as well
I’d rather not have you poking into my private life, I’m going home first
Genda
Let’s get more serious about this, and heat things up!
Though freedom is the mother of invention
Amano
How are you so big-hearted?
Well, I suppose going with you just this once
Won’t be so bad
Buzzing, seriously Jurassic
We’re like magnets, all over the place
Because it’s temporary, we’ve got a good balance
No way! No good!
Shubidubi let’s continue
Even if you try to separate us, you can’t
Amano
I’m the one who knows the most that this is a (temp) mission
Genda
It’s no good like this, right
Amano
Staying this way is fine
Genda
Let’s try out something new
Amano
You’re too positive, you’re a zombie
Genda
Let’s reach for the top together
Amano
Your dreams are too big, lol
Genda
If it’s with you, then it isn’t a dream!
Really
Buzzing, a whole ammonite
We’re like magnets, at opposite poles
It might just be temporary...twice the power fallin’ feeling!
Shabaduba let’s create
We can’t be cut apart even if you try
Genda
The moment (temp.) is removed
Say hello to the future
It’s just (temp) though
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