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thegrapewizard · 7 months
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Producer : Andrew Murray, Paso 🇺🇸
One of the good things about paso that it has so much diversity. I’ve always said. Find you grape. Find your champagne and here in paso. You can. What ever you drink where ever you try it. Have one thing in mind and one thing only Choose your grape ! Do I like this wine. This grape type. If it’s not for me that’s fine but move on. You do not have to like every grape varietal on the planet –…
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thegrapewizard · 5 years
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Visiting Champagne is always a treat.  The treat this time is that I also had the family in tow, a celebratory long weekend of birthdays and anniversaries.  This was to be their first wine tour and our first family holiday all together since childhood.  What could go wrong?
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L-R TheGrapewizard, Sister (Tanya) and Brother (Carl)
I decided that the best way for my siblings to understand the magic of this effervescent drink was for us to take in the diversity of what the region has to offer. So we based ourselves in Epernay, the regions capital in a gite at the start of the Avenue de Champagne  – a famous street lined with the HQ’s of many leading champagne producers such as Moet et Chandon, Mercier and De Castellane.  The trip was to include a visit to a small organic vineyard, several tours of the major well-known champagne houses and a private tasting organised by Yours Truly – TheGrapeWizard!  But the highlight and the most anticipated was to the most admired producer in the industry, Billecart-Salmon in Mareuil-sur-Ay.
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Maison Billecart-Salmon is a small-medium family-owned producer at the very top end and as you might imagine they are not able to say yes to all of the huge number of visitor requests.  So it was with excitement, anticipation and a sense of awe that, like an excited herd of young billy goats,  trotted off on our last day.
photo by Leif Carlsson
Pulling up to the house we were not disappointed; an elegant building of tan coloured stones, luxurious yet understated.  Jerome, our guide for the tour greeted us warmly.  Elegantly dressed, with refined manners and a subtle galliac dry humour he had us all transfixed.
Jerome and TheGrapeWizard
History was made 200 years ago, in 1818, when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon who owned a vineyard were married, marking the creation of their Champagne House. Ever since, through 7 generations, each member of the family has stayed faithful to the motto: “Give priority to quality, strive for excellence”.
Our tour started outside at the esteemed 1 hectare vineyard Clos Saint Hilaire (which is about the size of Twickenham’s rugby field).
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Clos St Hilaire
A Clos is a parcel of vines enclosed by a wall on 3 sides.  Whilst grapes of different vintages and vineyards are blended, a Clos Champagne is made from the grapes from a single parcel of land.  There are only around 20 Clos in the Champagne region and since one vine produces only around 5 bottles of wine you understand the cost of this most rare of vintages.  The vines, soil and subsoil are farmed biodynamically with the use of draft horses and even grazing sheep to keep the weeds down!
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The Clos Saint-Hilaire creates an exceptional champagne exclusively from Pinot Noir on limited release of between 3,500 to 7,500 individually numbered bottles and only in vintage years.
The champagnes of Maison Billecart-Salmon are created thanks to the knowledge of the men who rigorously cultivate an estate of 100 hectares, across 40 crus of the Champagne region combined with a complex and thorough blending process supervised by the elderly head of the family Monsieur Antoine Roland-Billecart. The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around Epernay, where the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay co-exist, in the ethereal vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.
The Cuverie
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As part of the ever present quest to raise the quality of their champagnes, in the Fifties, the House were the first to use the technique of cold settling (normally used in the brewing industry) combined with the use of stainless steel tanks for a longer fermentation at a lower temperature. The vinification is carried out cru by cru, grape variety by grape variety which allows for conservation of the full range of characteristics of the terroir to be captured.  The low temperature encourages the most delicate ofaromas and allows all the purity of the fruit to be expressed. The elegance produced is the absolute signature of the Billicart-Salmon style.
Next on the tour was a visit to the Chais (wineries) one of which is a brand new state-of-the-art room built to celebrate Billicart’s bicentenary.  They house 400 small and 24 gigantic oak casks where the wine is vinified in oak to reveal all its richness and aromatic complexity to create their latest cuvee “Sous Bois”.
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The bottled wine then makes it’s way down to the chalk cellars which date from 17th and 19th centuries. Over three to four years, the non-vintage champagnes really blossom, staying around twice as long as the fixed regulations of the appellation. The vintage cuvées patiently wait ten years before they begin to reveal their maturity.
Allowing time to play its role is behind the grandeur of Billecart-Salmon champagnes.
And time now to savour the results. It did not disappoint.  Tasting notes below.
If you want to learn more about Billecart-Salmon, catching up with an interview with Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the current CEO and the Chef de Caves then please go over to my website www.thegrapewizard.com. Simply sign up with your Email.
Tasting Notes
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Billecart- Salmon Cuvee Elizabeth Brut Rose 2007
A salmon pink appearance with a whiff of red berries, citrus peel and stone fruits. Some would say fresh figs, white peach, almond macarons. A delight !
On the mouth a mixture of nectarine and cardamom – exposing the elegance of a tangy mandarin together with delicate flavours of cedar and exotic wood.
Pair with creamy poultry, langoustines and /or  crunchy hibiscus macarons.
Serve at: 11-12°C
GW Rating 5/5
Billecart- Salmon Cuvee Louis Brut Blanc de Blanc 2006
APPEARANCE golden yellow hue and a few green glints of youth. PALATE A beautifully refreshing flavours of citron zest, peach and white pepper AROMA whipped cream, white flowers and citrus fruits Pair matches such as turbot or a creamy shellfish risotto. Serve at: 11-12°C GW Rating 5/5
Billecart- Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Brut 2006
APPEARANCE: yellow gold veiled in luminous golden reflections.
PALATE:honeyed notes associated with stone fruits with aromas of citrus zest.
AROMA: preserved peaches, fine apple tart and lemon verbena tea
Pair with roasted poultry or a turbot in a creamy sauce.
Serve at: 11-12°C
GW Rating 5/5
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Billecart-Salmon Extra Brut
APPEARANCE
A pale gold intensity.
PALATE: biscuity flavor with notes of white flesh fruits
AROMA :dried fruits and brioche combined with floral notes. Subtle notes of lemon verbena.
TASTING: Pair with prawns, grilled scallops and ceviche.
GW Rating 4/5
  As for the family dynamics and the smooth running of a 4 day getaway for the first time ever… well thats a story for another day !
Any more info wanted on Billecart-Salmon please contact me. Truly a delicious wine and a fabulous House.
MUSIC Pairing 
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Billecart- Salmon – Understated Elegance. Visiting Champagne is always a treat.  The treat this time is that I also had the family in tow, a celebratory long weekend of birthdays and anniversaries. 
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Dramatic skys over Allegrini
So finally Summer is here and I am off on a long awaited trip to Italy.  I had purchased tickets to the opera festival at the open-air Arena di Verona.  This was a trip that had been on the list for quite some time and i think in such a small space of time i had been and seen as much as a cultured tourist could ! I decided I had to do something different.  Only thing – was what was out there ! Id Been to the Verona Arena to watch Carmen and I had attempted the La-passeggiata as only a Brit resembling a man from Uncle can !! so i decided there had to be more.
Looking on the map in the Agriturismo i suddenly had a lightbulb moment .  A few wine words lit up on the map – almost like clouds parting in front of my eyes – words like Negrar, Soave, Bardolino and towns that included the word “Valpolichella”.  Surely this wasn’t Amarone Country !!!! Was it ?
It most certainly was !
The (hazy ) view looking down onto Valpolicella country
  With only 2 days left of a short stay  I decided to book a tasting  with Villa Allegrini
  A foremost Amarone producer the Allegrini Family has been producing wine for over four hundred years and is situated in the village of Fumane di Valpolicella  and its vineyards measure 100 hectares (247 acres); or 100 International sized Rugby Pitches. The vineyards of Allegrini house their flagship wines of La Grola, Palazzo della Torre and La Poja in the following Vineyards.
Palazzo della Torre (unofficial ripasso)
  Vineyards of Allegrini
1 .Corte Giara was created in 1989 in response to introducing international varietals.  young wines that can be enjoyed as easily-approachable for consumers.
2. Poggio al Tesoro founded in 2001.  70 hectares (173 acres). Produces modern, elegant wines
3. San Polo – Being located on the south-east facing slope of Montalcino, the Estate possesses an ideal terroir for the cultivation of Sangiovese, which expresses great finesse of fragrances and elegance.
Allegrini also purchased Villa Della Torre in Fumane di Valpolicella (13-1600 AD) 26 hectares (or 26 International rugby pitches).  Today it is used as the official HQ of the Company
Valpolicella is a viticultural zone of the province of Verona, Italy, east of Lake Garda. Just to the west of Venice in Northern Italy. The hilly agricultural and marble-quarrying region of small holdings north of the Adige is famous for wine production.
The red wine known as Valpolicella is typically made from 4 grape varieties:
Click on 4 grape varieties (below) to learn more 
Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Molinara.
A variety of wine styles is produced in the area, including a recioto dessert wine and Amarone, a strong wine made from dried grapes.
Most basic Valpolicellas are light, fragrant table wines similar to Beaujolais nouveau and released only a few weeks after harvest. Very fresh and full of fruit characteristics -not for ageing
Valpolicella Classico is made from grapes grown in the original Valpolicella production zone.
Valpolicella Superiore is aged at least one year and has an alcohol content of at least 12 percent.
Valpolicella Ripasso is a form of Valpolicella Superiore made with partially dried grape skins that have been left over from fermentation of Amarone or recioto.
Amarone della Valpolicella, usually known as Amarone, is a rich Italian dry red wine made from the partially dried grapes of the Corvina and other approved red grape varieties (up to 25%).  Films and TV shows where the wine has played a visual role have improved the awareness of the style of wine. It is now regarded as a region that produces world class wine
The name “Valpolicella” is thought to originate from  from Latin/Greek  as the  “Valley of Cellars.”  
    Seven comuni compose Valpolicella:
Pescantina,
San Pietro in Cariano,
Negrar,
Marano di Valpolicella,
Fumane,
Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella 
Sant’Anna d’Alfaedo.
The 19th century brought a series of calamities to most wine producing regions of Italy-including the phylloxera epidemic (a bug that ate European vine roots ) – wiping out 70% of vines in europe – Valpolichella was relatively unscathed.
So in summary –  over the last 100 years :
the 1950s saw the  “Amarone” style of winemaking being rediscovered.
1968  saw the Valpolicella was granted its own DOC , which led to a large expansion of vineyard areas that were permitted to produce Valpolicella DOC wine. That together with the addition of lesser quality grapes (Molinara and Rondinella) led to a drop in quality, which had a detrimental impact on not only the area’s reputation on the international wine market but also on sales and prices.
As winemaking became less profitable, the vineyards were uprooted and abandoned. This shifted the source of grape production even further away from the better quality producing hillside regions.
In the 1980s and 1990s, the Amarone wines of Valpolicella experienced a spike in popularity on the world’s wine market. Production of Amarone jumped from 522,320 US gallons in 1972 to 1.2 million gallons  by 1990.
By 2000 Amarone production grew to over 3.9 million bottles  (148,000 hl).
It was getting popular !
By this point, the price for grapes destined for Amarone production was nearly three times higher than what a comparable quantity of grapes would fetch for basic Valpolicella production. This sparked renewed interest in planting vineyards in the high altitude hillside locations that produced lower yields of grapes better suited for Amarone production.
In the 21st century, the reputation of Valpolicella wines continued to expand on the world’s wine market, as ambitious winemakers began to invest more in advanced viticultural and winemaking techniques that produce higher quality wines. In 2003, the DOC regulations were adjusted to eliminate mandatory blending requirements for sub-quality grapes such as Molinara. It had gone full circle.
What was once the reason that made Valpolicella a low quality low value wine made it in demand again into a desired want to have red region !
  So my time at Allegrini was spent  visiting the HQ and  tasting four of their range of wines
Soave
Valpolicella
Palazzo della Torre (unofficial ripasso)
Amarone
Soave
Grapes : Garganega and Chardonnay
Characteristics  Density of planting: 6,250 vines/hectare (2,530 vines/acre)
Harvest: Manual harvest September – October
2017 vintage Tasting notes
 Straw yellow in colour and the nose reveals notes of white flowers followed by fresher jasmine flowers and a crisp and delicate citrus vein.
Pair with : risotto with saffron and raw fish dishes, tempura, sushi and sashimi, as well as Asian dishes  Serve chilled at 8-10°C (46-50°F).
  GW Score 4*
Valpolicella
Grape varieties: Corvina Veronese 70%, Rondinella 30%
The territory: Valpolicella Classica
Vineyard location:  Fumane, Valpolicella,
Tasting notes
Ruby red in colour, the nose shows notes of cherries, echoed by fresher hints of pepper and aromatic herbs,
Whilst young it is lively and playful – delicate later on.
Food pairings
This type of Valpolicella is the perfect accompaniment to Italian antipasti, soups, pasta dishes and other dishes typical of Mediterranean cuisine.  pairs well with roasted and grilled white meats. Serve at 16°C (61°F)
GW Score 4*
  PALAZZO DELLA TORRE 2015
Grape varieties: Corvina Veronese 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 25%, Sangiovese 5%
The territory: Valpolicella Classica
Tasting notes
This wine is elegant good aroma. Ruby red in colour with purple hues, it offers hints of raisins, vanilla, black pepper, cloves and cinnamon. Soft and velvety tannins with a long finish.
Food pairings
Palazzo della Torre  pairs with  risottos, lasagna, gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese and walnuts; grilled meats and roasts.
The delightful aroma of raisined grapes is enhanced if the wine is served at 18° C in a large wine glass.
GW Score 5*
  2014 Amarone.
Grape varieties: Corvina Veronese 45%, Corvinone 45%, Rondinella 5%, Oseleta 5%
The territory: Valpolicella Classico
Vineyard location: Located in the hills of the Valpolicella Classico area
  Vintage 2014 began with a mild  winter. From April onwards, the weather started to get progressively worse, culminating in a surprisingly cold and wet summer. Meticulous trimming and selection was necessary at harvest time, resulting in a 15% reduction in yield. The selection of grape bunches led to select harvesting and ultimately good quality wines were produced
Tasting notes
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta are left to air dry at least until December and are checked daily to ensure perfectly healthy grapes. Wine has structure and depth and shows mature fruit and spices – good acidity and smooth tannins.
Food pairings
enjoy with game, roasted and grilled meats, casseroles and well matured cheeses. Amarone’s distinctive flavour compliments exotic sweet and sour cuisine and is therefore also perfect with Asian and middle-eastern dishes. Serve at 18°C (64°F)
  GW Score 5*
  other wines of the allegrini family
    So when you look at the region you can see that it has been through a lot , it has had its bad time through lazy regulation but it seems to have transformed through a 40 year period into a serious contender on the world’s stage.
Soave always has had a bad time with critics. Always regarded as a very easy drinking low quality wine. Now some producers produce fabulous Soave. Almost unknown since those horror days
Amarone has finesse and elegance whereas Valpolicella has all the characteristics the weekly dinner night drinker wants. Easy accessible good value quality wine.
Not only has the bar been raised with the quality of all wines over the last 40 years  but the scenery is to die for. History, scenery and experience make this area almost unchartered. This was a very enriching journey and one I’m glad i did.  Give this region a try and find something “just off the beaten track” that you just wouldn’t normally have. Who wouldn’t like a christmas pudding in a wine or cracked black pepper smattered all over a dark red !! Valpolicella is is now a top ten region for me now
Music Pairing 
Herbie Hancock – Gershwin’s world
GW VALPOLICELLA VINTAGE  CHART
***** MUST BUY – Invest ! YUM YUM ! **** Great to drink ! *** OK, just ok – don’t expect too much ** Little bit Lacking, be careful !! * Avoid like the plague !! Year Score 2013 3/5 2012 4/5 2011 4/5 2010 4/5 2009 5/5 2008 4/5 2007 4/5 2006 5/5 2005 3/5 2004 5/5 2003 4/5 2002 2/5 2001 4/5 2000 5/5 1999 4/5 1998 5/5 1997 5/5 1996 2/5 1995 5/5 1994 3/5 1993 3/5 1992 2/5 1991 3/5 1990 5/5 1989 2/5 1988 5/5 1987 2/5 1986 3/5 1985 4/5 1984 3/5 1983 5/5 1982 3/5 1981 3/5 1980 3/5 1979 4/5 1978 3/5 1977 4/5 1976 4/5 1975 3/5 1974 4/5 1973 3/5 1972 2/5 1971 3/5 1970 3/5 1969 4/5 1968 3/5 1967 4/5 1966 3/5 1965 2/5 1964 4/5 1963 2/5 1962 4/5 1961 4/5 1960 2/5 1959 3/5
    Elegance, romance and a surprise ending on a trip to the opera and a vineyard. A visit to Fumane di Valpolicella, home of Allegrini. Dramatic skys over Allegrini So finally Summer is here and I am off on a long awaited trip to Italy.  
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Came home not work and a home made Black Forest gateau was waiting for me for my birthday 🎁 with #chateaudefesles Paired perfectly with the chocolate cake. #chocolatecake #desertwine #sweetwine #cheninblanc #loirevalley #bonnezeaux #whitewine #goldencolour #pierresauvion #thegrapewizard (at Covent Garden London)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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1/2 way through English wine week I thought I’d highly 6 of my best producers in England @camelvalleysam @chapeldownwines @bolneyestate @blackchalkwine @hattingleywines @winbirri All fabulous producers and all clean fresh crisp wines. Little or no oak 😋 😋. #englishwineweek #englishwine #englishwines #thegrapewizard #sparklingwine #englishsparklingwine #england #bubbly #greatwineproducers #fizz (at England)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Giants in a world 🌍 of gins. One of the best tonic water companies in the world today. Great range and not too much quinine but shhhh... don’t tell anyone that ! @fevertreemixers. Irish 🇮🇪 gunpowder gin. Made with juniper, angelica, orris, caraway, coriander, meadowsweet, cardamom and star anise as well lemon 🍋 and lime , fresh grapefruit and gunpowder tea. Of the 50 or so gins I’ve tried this has to rate as one in the top 8 ✅ Enjoy with fever tree tonic and fever tree elderflower tonic 😋 #gin #ginandtonic #juniper #anjelica #orris #carraway #coriander #cardomom #staranise #lemon #lime #lemonandlime #summerdrinks #gingin #irishgunpowdergin @gunpowderirishgin #thegrapewizard (at London, United Kingdom)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Almost start of #winesgb @winesgb 3 talks lined up and 30 producers lots of interesting wine and unusual varieties. Should be fun #wine #redwine #whitewine #ukwine #englishsparklingwine #englishwine #chardonnay #rondo #winewithfriends #thegrapewizard (at RHS - Royal Horticultural Society)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Stick your head in a nose bag full of rosemary,thyme and sniff bunches of white flowers. Indulge in rich, creamy and fabulous characteristics. (Lamm Gruner veltliner 2016) This is a one not to miss Check out @hedonism_wines for this any many other fabulous wines. #grunerveltliner #whitewine #austria🇦🇹 #freshandcrisp #perfectwine #thegrapewizard #lammwines (at London, United Kingdom)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Blog #20 Australia Day 2018 Enjoy the new article and learn something new. Sign up on Www.thegrapewizard.com and receive a new article every time I write it. #redwine #whitewine #sparklingwines #blackfruits #cedar #chardonnay #shiraz #thegrapewizard (at Southfields)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Wonderful blend of #chardonnay #pinotgris and #riesling from @seresinestate giving not too much fruit and not too much oak. A grown up fab white #whitewine #serisin #marlborough #winewithfriends #enjoywine #enjoylife #greatacidity #thegrapewizard A co-fermented wine made from Pinot Gris, Riesling and Chardonnay. The juice from all three varieties is tasted by serisins winemaker and viticulturalist and blended before fermentation, giving this wine a unique character that is different from that of a wine blended post-ferment. The complex nose shows fruit, spice and floral notes. The palate is rich and textural, with a structured elegance and vibrant acidity, providing a clean finish. A multidimensional wine, Chiaroscuro brings together elements of fruit, concentration, acidity, texture and minerality. (at London, United Kingdom)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Blog number #19 Chablis Grand Cru please visit www.thegrapewizard.com and sign up to receive newsletters advice and insight into the wine world 🌍 link on profile #chablisgrandcru #chablis #blanchots #bougros #lesclos #grenouilles #preuses #valmur #vaudesir #chardonnay #whitewine #france #oak #thegrapewizard #minerality #acidity (at Chablis)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Nice afternoon bubbles ! @veuveclicquotuk @veuvecliquot to enjoy with friends 🍾since the new chef de cave was appointed the champagne has taken on a more richer nuttier character #champagne #bubbles #thegrapewizard #veuveclicquot #chardonnay #pinotnoir #pinotmeunier #champagnelife #stives @cornwall_outdoors #uksparklingwine (at St Ives Beach Front)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Home of “two buck chuck “ priced at $2.99 ( guess that’s inflation ) @traderjoes @charlessmithwines #goodvaluewines #wine #denver #colorado #cabsauv #merlot #thegrapewizard #sauvignonblanc #zinfandel #redwine #rosewine @rian.loveswine (at Trader Joe's-Denver)
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thegrapewizard · 6 years
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Fabulous visit to @bearcreekdistillery great whiskey 🥃 great vodka and fabulous host (Jeff) #ryewhiskey #whiskey #denver #colorado #vodka #sanfransiscospiritscompetition #thegrapewizard #rectifiedspirit #distillery (at Bear Creek Distillery)
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thegrapewizard · 7 years
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Start of a fabulous collaboration between @thegrapewizard and @wineboutiques One in London and one in Amsterdam Please share and sign up to my weekly newsletter on my blog (www.thegrapewizard.com) and questions DM either account #amsterdam #london #wine #thegrapewizard #whitewine #redwine #gin #ginandtonic #juniper #genever #allthingswine #holland #vineyard (at London, United Kingdom)
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thegrapewizard · 7 years
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1862 1st edition £2000 2017 reprint £12.95. Contains all the original recipes and some that make you 🤢🤢🤢 has to be the bargain of the century. #jerrythomas #ginandtonic #juniper #thegrapewizard #books #cocktails #curiogin @jerrythomasproject_rome @tomcruiseofficial_ (at Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships)
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