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hokkaidodo-blog · 7 years

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an untitled post - because it’s 2am and my brain feels like trifle

First of all, how on earth has it been longer than two weeks since I last posted? And more importantly, how have I been living in Japan for longer than a month already? It seems like I’ve only just arrived but then also it seems like I’ve been here forever. After a month, I’m surprised at how much you can settle in to a new place relatively easy. Even after two weeks or so, I no longer find myself awkwardly sitting in a doughnut shop in Sapporo underground station, politely declining many free refills of coffee just so that I could hide in the corner and use the Wi-Fi to desperately try and figure out which of the station’s bountiful exits would lead me to campus (it seemed so easy when I was with someone else); nor do I feel like a confused and terrified rabbit in the market when 1) I can barely fit down the isles because I am not a petite Japanese person, or when 2) I have borderline zero idea about what to buy/look for/cook with regards to Japanese vegetables/meat/condiments/toiletries.

Being in the tail end of Autumn at the moment, everything is stunning. I’ve never seen trees with such beautifully coloured leaves, Hokkaido University being one of the most famous spots in Japan for tree-viewing with its “golden leaf” festival. It’s definitely getting colder and I can feel that winter is going to hit us running faster than a middle-aged lady at the Boxing Day 5am Next sale. I’m excited to see the Hokkaido winter (Hokkaidonian? Hokkaidan?) Japanese winter, but especially up here in the north, there is no going back once it strikes. The feeling that we will have snow from (probably) the end of October to mid-February is something that yes, I was very aware of before I came to Hokkaido. However, to someone who is used to two or three days (three being ambitious here) of ‘snow’ a year – snow that abolishes all hope of any form of public transport running or schools being open, forcing elderly folk to manically panic buy the entire stock of Hovis bread and twenty-four pints of milk from the local Costcutter to serve them through said nuclear winter, just to find that a day later everything is fine and people are left wondering if the snow even happened – it is something that you cannot easily prepare for.

Fun trivia fact: The yellow leafed tree is called a “ginko” and translates as “silver apricot”. Yeah, move over Alan Titchmarsh.

I feel so scatty because it’s been so long since I wrote something and there’s hardly been a day where I haven’t been busy with something, so this is going to be a mish-mashed “look at a few of the things I’ve been doing! Aren’t they fabulous” kind of post. Apologies in advance.

MOUNT MOIWA

Saturday. Planned to hike up a mountain close to my dorm to see a beautiful sunset and a breath-taking of the marvellous city below. Woke up. Cloudier than a cup of tea made by someone who puts the milk in without taking the teabag out first. (FYI – sorry in advance, but if you do this you are a cretin who should have their tea-making duties revoked immediately.) Typical. However, we took the rope way up to the top of the mountain and after nearly being blown over the sides of the mountain into the abyss, the sun fortunately came out and the clouds filtered away. The view was stunning and like something out of a hand-drawn art film. There was a bell at the top that lovers are meant to ring to signify their commitment and love for one another, so, because I am in love with myself, (insert RuPaul quote here) here is a pic of me being apparently super twee and declaring my commitment to being a mega-tourist. (The pic also features my raincoat and umbrella, which to the great delight of my new international friends are both incredibly British things and therefore a prime and hilarious source of glorious banter.)

HOT SPRINGS!

In the middle of the beautiful Hōheikyō dam, surrounded by hundreds more autumnal trees, we found a stunning natural onsen, or hot spring. There are onsen in the city which are inside and are like giant communal hot tubs where you can relax, however what was so beautiful about this particular bath house was that the baths were all filled with naturally occurring, mineral loaded water, heated and pumped straight from the earth. Bathing culture is something that I find quite interesting in Japan. Being British, there is the stereotype that we are prude with our nakedness, but when you go to an onsen you must forget any embarrassment or shame you might have, shed your shyness, and just embrace ‘the Japanese way.’ This is the belief that old or young, fat or thin, rich or poor; when you are in the onsen, you are there to relax, to appreciate your life and the nature around you and to be free of any social constraints, no matter what your walk of life may be. It was quite liberating and surprisingly easy to be so open with myself and my body. It was also interesting to see fathers bringing their young sons to the onsen for the first time, teaching them Japanese behaviours and etiquette and as such, there was a peaceful and very comfortable atmosphere here.

Obviously, picture taking was forbidden inside, so here is a pic from the website. Imagine this but at night, with lots of paper lanterns and orange leaves!

It’s hard to find a photo that shows the beauty of the springs!

And here’s some random thoughts and pics before I wrap this post up for today:

1) Went to an owl café with the most beautiful owls. Found a new friend and then got told we look awfully similar.

It’s the eyebrows.

2) I don’t know how or why this became a thing, but I’m apparently collecting photos of myself next to any mascots or statues I find. Lol Japan.

None have been as soul-penetratingly scary as the melon-bear. Yet.

3) If the light at the pedestrian crossing is red, nobody will EVER walk. Ever. No cars have passed by for ten minutes? 2am standing in the rain with no coat? People will still wait for the green man until they cross. It’s just the rule, man.

4) Japanese food = the absolute best. Gaining 15 stone = not so great.

5) Conversely, Japanese cheese (more specifically, the lack of) = the worst. Mumma, if you’re reading this then please send emergency supplies. Mental stability maintained by mayonnaise and cheese is dwindling fast. Help.

That’s all my ramblings for now. I’ll try and keep updating this more often if I don’t lose my fingers in the sub-zero temperatures or go into hiding and become a recluse due to lack of a good British cuppa. As always, thank you for reading!

ロス

Bonus pics:

Just a human and his owl.

I have nothing to say about this.

Story: When walking through a forest path to reach the mountain, you will see these stone statues lining the walkway. Every single one adorned with a hand knitted blanket or wearing a crocheted scarf or shawl of some kind. These statues are of Jizō – the god who is the guardian protector of children who have passed away too young. Just as Jizō protects the spirits of these children and looks after them once they have left this world, the idols are also protected by gestures of Japanese people who will hand-make scarves and hats to protect Jizō from the elements in the harsh winter. The original Japanese folk-tale tells of an old man and old woman whose grandson had passed, living in the mountains with barely enough food and resources to make-do for themselves. However, despite this they still selflessly placed their own hats on the statues during a snow storm to keep them warm. In turn, it is said that the statues came to life and delivered food to the old couple to thank them for their generosity. The old couple had so much food that they returned it to Jizō to continue the cycle of gratefulness and gift-giving. The tradition of gift-giving is an ancient Japanese custom and something that is very typical of Japanese life.

Maruyama Zoo

#japan #travel #hokkaido #year abroad #study abroad #onsen #winter #autumn #leaves #mountain #mount moiwa #hiking #exploring #exchange student #travel blog #ramblings #sapporo

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