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forthegothicheroine · 7 years

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Beyond Corpse Paint: Goth Perfume Houses, Part II

Since my last post on this topic, I’ve received a lot of feedback on my followers’ favorite perfume houses. Over the last several months I ordered samples from some of these companies, and have simply ogled the others with covetous intent. Behind the cut are my reviews of the samples I received from three offbeat perfume companies: Sarawen, Possets, and Deconstructing Eden.

The perfume companies I’ve had recommended but did not order from, along with the perfumes of theirs that look most interesting to me, are:

For Strange Women, which seems to specialize in solid perfumes in jewelry form. Most of their scents seem to be green and mossy in nature, but one of their floral scents, “Satin Corset”, looks quite lovely to me.

Lore Apothecary, which makes scents often inspired by mythical creatures. Or at least did in the past- most of the scents don’t seem to be on the website anymore. Maybe they’re reformulating them, or moving away from perfumes?

LVNEA is a company that describes its products as natural and ethereal using “pure plant essences”. “L’alchimie”, a blend of blood orange and amber, sounds right up my alley.

Alkemia is a favorite of many of my friends, with scents named poetically and illustrated by great works of art. Being a sucker for lilacs, if I were to order I would probably want to try “Lilacs Along the Winding Drive.”

Some companies not in this post but that I have enjoyed in the past, and which I would generally recommend to gothy types, would be CB I Hate Perfume (try “Burning Leaves”) and Sixteen92 (try “Black Sugar”). And of course, don’t forget about Tokyomilk and Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab from last time.

And now, on to the companies I’m actually reviewing!

Deconstructing Eden is an etsy company I’d been interested in since reading a review on Immaterial Girls. They have several categories of scents, but I chose Haunted (a ghostly scent from their Dark Love collection), as well as two scents from their line based on Kushiel’s Legacy (I chose the scents of my two favorite courtesan houses, Valerian and Eglantine.)

Haunted

What the site says: Sweet obsession and that love that you just can’t shake. This addition to the Love: Dark series is the memory of love. Ghostly roses, ethereal lilacs and wisteria. Pale, pale Asian lilies on a soft bed of delicate woods and ambergris.

How it smells: This is one of my new top fives. While (spoiler alert!) I wasn’t blown away by this company overall, this is exactly the ghostly lilac I’ve been looking for over the years (for some reason it drives The Byronic Hero wild as well). I’ll want a large bottle when my sample runs out.

Valerian House

What the site says: Deep and dark with patchouli and vetiver in the base notes. A kiss of leather whips, the lesson of the spice candies and blood red roses.

How it smells: Spiced candies and nothing else. I know Valerian House has a whole thing about how you’re only a True Submissive if you like spicy candies, which is a claim I find dubious to start with, but I was hoping for some of the leather and rose to poke through. This one was a pretty big disappointment.

Eglantine House

What the site says: This blend is honeyed roses, a touch of mahogany, plums, an elegant amber accord, Champaca flowers, and of course, Eglantine roses, on a lovely white musk.

How it smells: Like biting into beautiful, ripe plums at first, though it softens to a more general floral with time. This must have been a hard house to design for, as “performer courtesans” covers a lot of options, but what they convey is something fancy and sophisticated.

Bonus sample: Botany of Desire No. 3

What the site says: Dark chocolate, spiced with ginger, cinnamon, black pepper and orange peel.

How it smells: This limited edition is a pretty nice dark chocolate scent. I have others I prefer (including a few of my Sarawen samples), but I have nothing to say against it.

Possets was recommended to my by several people. If you care about the nature of their ingredients, they have their standard as well as “natural” lines, but I could only order a set of samples from one of them, so I chose the main one.

Silver Roses

What the site says: The fabulous "silver" base is now spun with some of the classiest rose accords and ottos I have ever encountered. The result is sheer magic. If you are a rose lover you must try Silver Roses. One of my first blends and a perennial favorite. Characteristics: Floral, vanilla, charming, scent locket, feminine, home scent, long lasting.

How it smells: A light rose scent. I was disappointed there wasn’t more vanilla in the mix.

Gingerbread Whorehouse

What the site says: Delighting adults since 2007, in the best and most childish way. Very foody, very sweet, very sexyThis is European Gingerbread given an American Cajun jolt with the spices: ginger, black pepper (!), clove, cinnamon, coriander, and a kiss of pink pepper. It's sweet but not cloying, cake-like but not too soft, it has a bite (but you would expect no less). This one was perfect right from the start and has remained so during the history of Possets. Sweet, foody, gourmand, spicy.

How it smells: Now this one is great! It’s sweet and spicy and everything I love about gingerbread. It’ll probably be a really comforting scent to wear in the winter.

Cygnus the Swan

What the site says: Cygnus (the Swan) is a very very very very sexy blend of the scent of real vanilla, rose, golden musk, sugar concentrate (do not eat this), an accord which smells a lot like fondant, and a pink musk which I have not used before. Very strong and very long lasting. Very. It is gorgeous, and I would say an instant classic.

How it smells: I’m a fan of sweet scents, but this one was too much for me. Maybe it was the musk.

Chocolate Incense

What the site says: No Valentine's Day would be complete without a foolish amount of chocolate! But this is the kind you can wear, a drug for your nose and an indulgence for your psyche. Sandalwood, amber, frankincense bring out the smokey tease in chocolate which you probably had no idea was there. Downright narcotic, it's so sensuous.

How it smells: As I’ve said before, I have lots of chocolate scents, but this is one of the best. Chocolate and incense is just a great combination, foody yet mysterious.

Cream

What the site says: Why settle for simple milk when you can have cream in all its glory? Thick and rich, light yellow and smooth. This adds a milky layer to any of the teas in our line. Again you can wear this one alone if you like and it is a blend of several different ingredients, all of them offering a beautiful facet of the thought of cream which you may not have considered. Luscious.

How it smells: A little...off. I’d hoped to use this with some of my tea-based scents, but it tended to make them smell worse rather than better.

Pre Raphealite Seductress

What the site says: Carnation , chocolate, incense, white musk. Sounds like a real recipe for seduction, combine that with long wavey locks, sumptuous gowns, arcane headgear, and a fragrance which is a damnation and then you know why they burned out! The flame was just too hot. Though there is carnation in this blend and a chocolate sort of vibe, I am calling it resinous because that is how it seems to me.

How it smells: Oh how this one broke my heart! On my skin this is all resin, no poetry or romance at all.

Bonus sample: Wallis Warfield Simpson

What the site says: The perfume is a paean to modern tastes and classic style. A rich carpet of three sandalwoods (a golden, a smoky, and a woody) gang up on a sparkle of pink grapefruit, all this is ringed around with a dry and delightful amber to set it off. A pinch of Sicilian myrtle to give it a bit of life (and remind us that they did indeed get married in the end...as myrtle is a marital ingredient).

How it smells: Questionable inspiration or not, this is a lovely scent. Pink grapefruit dipped in champagne, this is a perfume for a sophisticated party.

Sarawen is another small company with lots of scents inspired by various books, movies and tv shows. I picked a few from stories dear to my heart, as well as a few I wasn’t familiar with but which sounded appealing anyway.

The Maiden

What the site says: She sings true of her love for the Captain. Her scent starts with wildflowers and light mosses from the meadows, then deepened with woodsy vetiver and purple lilacs. Swirls of sweetened cream and delicate herb buds dance amongst the floral notes, completing her fragrance. This is a creamy floral scent inspired by Demelza Poldark, perfect for gallivanting across the meadows. Main notes: wildflowers, sweet cream, lilac, grassy moss, vetiver

How it smells: I’ve never read or watched Poldark, but this perfume could work for any kind-hearted ingenue. It’s fresh and sweet, the sort of thing a plucky Disney princess might wear, great for springtime.

The Empress

What the site says: A throne room, fragrant with the scent of blood-red roses strewn on the marble floors and the aroma of musk and spices. A dark, spicy blend of roses with hints of musk and amber. This scent is inspired by Livia Drusilla, the first Empress of Rome and wife of Augustus. She was said to have used poison to clear the way for her son to ascend the throne. Naughty woman! She would have made an excellent vampire. Main notes: roses, allspice, black pepper, musk, red wine

How it smells: I like all the ingredients in this on their own, but somehow it just didn’t come together for me. It was too cloying on my skin, but perhaps that’s just a matter of ingredients and body chemistry.

Silent Screen Vamp

What the site says: Inspired by the early ‘vamp’ type characters played by Theda Bara and Nita Naldi, this bold perfume captures their predatory allure. Mysterious chypre, gardenia flower, and musk form the base and combine with rich chocolate, dangerous absinthe, and honeyed pepper. Top notes of ylang ylang and rose accord add more glamour to this sexy floriental scent. Return to the 1920’s and turn some heads! Main notes: black pepper, musk, gardenia, chocolate, absinthe, honey

How it smells: Theda Bara obviously couldn’t have worn this perfume, but I sure feel like her when I wear it! Something about chocolate and alcohol makes me feel dangerous, enhanced by that note of pepper. Great stuff.

Mina

What the site says: The freshest blooming rose, cut down and corrupted with the taste of sinful depravity and wickedness. A seductive scent flushed with decayed roses, notes of myrrh, musk, dragon's blood, and dark temptations! Be on your guard when wearing this scent, lest you be spirited away by a handsome demon. Main notes: rose accord, musk, rosewood, incense, myrrh

How it smells: Why do I keep trying scents with dragons blood? I know I don’t like them, I know they smell like cherry cough syrup on me, but I keep thinking the next one will be different. Sadly, this one was not different.

Scandal in London

What the site says: She's seductive, secretive, and little dangerous! Feminine lilac and ylang ylang flowers blends with feisty dragonsblood with a light hint of eastern sandalwood. A touch of Holmes' favourite tobacco tops off this sultry floriental perfume.This perfume is inspired by the character of Irene Aldler from the world of Sherlock Holme. Main notes: lilac, blood orange, ylang ylang, tobacco, bay rum

How it smells: Another dragon’s blood perfume, but I found this one more tolerable than usual; the tobacco and rum kept it from being too sweet. Still, “more tolerable” isn’t exactly a recommendation.

Chocolate Rose

What the site says: Beauteous rich red roses mingled with the satisfying delights of French chocolates. Hints of white florals dance throughout, leaving a dry-down of both sweetness and botanic elegance. This fragrance is a rich gourmand blend with floral tones, perfect for either day or evening. Main notes: chocolate, rose accord, white florals

How it smells: I’ve been looking for a good chocolate rose scent for some time now and this one is perfect. If you’re not put off by something so frilly, please try this out.

#beyond corpse paint #perfume #kushiel's legacy

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