#Anders Christian Madsen

[biglisbonnews]

Marni: Ready-To-Wear AW23 Why did Marni want to show in Tokyo? “The synchronisation with this culture is about being inspired by how much sacrifice there is in disciplining, learning, making. Here, they’re masters of that,” Francesco Risso said before taking over the Yoyogi National Gymnasium for the second stop on his Marni world tour. The post Marni: Ready-To-Wear AW23 appeared first on 10 Magazine. https://www.10magazine.com/shows/marni-ready-to-wear-aw23/

#Shows #Womenswear #aw23 #Header #marni #tokyo #Anders Christian Madsen #10 Magazine

[fashionbooksmilano]

Givenchy Sfilate

Alexandre Samson, Anders Christian Madsen

Tutte le collezioni Con oltre 1200 illustrazioni

L'Ippocampo, Milano 2023, 632 pagine, 19,5x28,6cm, ISBN 978 88 6722 7013

euro 49,90

e-mail if you want to buy [email protected]

Tutte le collezioni Con oltre 1200 illustrazioni

La prima panoramica completa delle collezioni donna di Givenchy, dagli esordi a oggi, con le fotografie originali delle sfilate. Fondata nel 1952 a Parigi da Hubert de Givenchy, la maison diviene presto emblema di un’eleganza disinvolta, incarnata dalla memorabile musa Audrey Hepburn. Dopo il ritiro del fondatore, nel 1995, alla guida si avvicendano stilisti visionari e raffinati come John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald, Riccardo Tisci e Clare Waight Keller, fino all’attuale direttore creativo Matthew M. Williams, sempre attento alle più vive tendenze del nuovo decennio. Attraverso 179 collezioni haute couture e prêtà-porter, Alexandre Samson e Anders Christian Madsen raccontano la storia di un marchio audacemente creativo, in equilibrio fra sensualità, romanticismo e streetwear.

04/01/24

#Givenchy #tutte le collezioni #dal 1952 a oggi #John Galliano #Alexander McQueen #Julien Macdonald #Riccardo Tisci #Clare Waight Keller #Mattew M.Williams #fashion books #fashionbooksmilano

[roseclothes]

Stella McCartney FW23

From Anders Christian Madsen's review for Vogue

Judging from the models’ stoicism in these pictures, it’s hard to believe that seven un-haltered white Camargue horses were running around the sand-strewn arena immediately to the left of the runway. They entered the Manège de l'École Militaire to a fanfare of Personal Jesus by Depeche Mode—“reach out, touch faith!”—wafting their long silvery manes as they galloped through the 18th century riding ring. They were joined by the horse whisperer Jean-François Pignon, who gently encouraged them to rear, run in circles and roll around in the sand. “There’s so much leather and feather and fur on the runway, especially in winter, and I just wanted to show that you can do it in a different way. You don’t have to kill anything,” Stella McCartney said after the show.

“It’s beautiful: the tailoring, the bespoke work. As someone who studied that for many years, you can’t get away from it,” she said, reflecting on those uniforms. “The relationship between the man and the woman and the horse and nature, it’s this kind of pull-and-push, and I think there’s a poetry at the center of it all.” McCartney applied her equestrian grammar to the Y2K language of her own fashion history, which she first re-introduced last season. The fusion materialized in skimpy hussar jackets, little cropped vests, deconstructed denim suits from another equestrian culture, and low-riding trousers that infused McCartney’s Chloé-era draped hip chains with fresh tack associations.

Those memories continued in dresses and knitwear that revived the horse print from her spring/summer 2001 collection for Chloé, albeit in a blurry evocation. McCartney’s ongoing rekindling with her own archives from her tenure at the house is timely—it’s what the kids want (just ask her teenaged daughter) but it’s clearly also invigorating the designer in new ways. Everything suddenly feels a little bit more impassioned in the house of Stella. Last season’s oversized blazers and coats were back today—as on many other runways this month—now adorned in the checks of horse blankets and some sculpted with the nipped-in waists of hunting jackets. As a nod to her family history, McCartney emblazoned her mother's horse photography on evening dresses, and the horse photography of her sister Mary on shirts—one worn by Pignon himself.

Asked to elaborate on the relationship between the collection and horses, McCartney smiled: “I guess the main relationship is that they’re alive and the clothes haven’t killed anything. There’s a celebration of everyone living in harmony together.” Next to an exhaustive list of the sustainable materials that made up the collection (too long to mention but accessible on her website), she enforced that philosophy in three new handbags created from state-of-the-art alternatives to animal leather: one from the plant-based, plastic-free and circular material MIRIUM; another crafted in croc-effect AppleSkin made from apple waste; and the first-ever bag made from a white version of the mushroom material Mylo.

[movienized-com]

Synkefri

Synkefri (2023) #ChristianAndersen #SylvesterByder #JohanneLouiseSchmidt #SofieTorp #IbenDorner #HenrikBirch Mehr auf:

Jahr: 2023 (November) Genre: Drama Regie: Christian Andersen Hauptrollen: Sylvester Byder, Johanne Louise Schmidt, Sofie Torp, Iben Dorner, Henrik Birch, Esben Dalgaard, Lars Topp, Anders Brink Madsen … Filmbeschreibung: Der völlig neue und unsinkbare Rettungsboot RF2 stürzt bei einer seiner ersten Rettungsmissionen im Jahr 1981 ab. Neun Männer sterben. Henrik, der Sohn des Kapitäns der RF2,…

View On WordPress

#Christian Andersen #Henrik Birch #Iben Dorner #Johanne Louise Schmidt #Sofie Torp #Sylvester Byder

[lalexisg]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Gucci x Balenciaga Hacker Project.

[greezleeamateurfotografin]

Posted @withregram • @victoriabeckham @vogueaustralia July 2022

Photographer: Dan Jackson @studio_jackson

Stylist: Christine Centenera @christinecentenera

Hair: Luke Hersheson @lukehersheson

Make up: Wendy Rowe @wendyrowe

Words: Anders Christian Madsen @anderschristianmadsen

[ameliataylor-beken]

Referencing

AAKS (2022) Season 1&7 Collections Available at: https://www.aaksonline.com/collections (accessed 26th November 2022)

Adish Studios (2022) FW 2021 Available at: https://www.adishstudios.com/ (accessed 26th November 2022)

Anders Christian Madsen (October 5th 2021) Miu Miu Spring 22 Ready to Wear Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/miu-miu#review (accessed 27th November 2022)

Brooke Theis (30th September 2021) Watch Maria Grazia Chiuri in conversation with Dior’s latest artist collaborator Anna PaparattiAvailable at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/a37802767/maria-grazia-chiuri-dior-artist-anna-paparatti-video/ (accessed 26th November 2022)

Charlotte Jansen (June 8th 2021) 6 rising contemporary artists using traditional craft techniques Available at: https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-6-rising-contemporary-artists-traditional-craft-techniques (accessed 26th November 2022)

Claire Turrell (April 23rd 2021) Why fashion is embracing the free spirited mod look after Lockdown, from TikTok to the virtual runway Available at: https://www.insider.com/mod-fashion-comeback-sixties-makeup-style-pandemic-2021- 4#:~:text=The%20sixties%20are%20back%20%E2%80%94%20the,like%20Rihanna%20and%20Kendall%20Jenner. (accessed 27th November 2022)

Colombe (2022) Completed Projects Available at: https://www.colombe.pl/projects/noakowskiego/ (accessed 30th November 2022

Coutumes Studio (2022) Interior Design Available at: https://www.coutumestudio.fr/details-studiopepe+x+coutume+studio-144.html (accessed 30th November 2022)

Cynthia Alba (2022) Nazda Jacket Available at: https://cynthiaabila.com/ (accessed 26th November 2022)

Didier (2022) Collections Available at: https://www.didier.com.au/project/apparel-collection/ (accessed 30th November 2022)

Dior (2022) SS 2022 Ready to Wear Collection Available at: https://www.dior.com/en_gb/fashion/womens-fashion/ready-to-wear-shows/spring-summer-2022-ready-to-wear-show (accessed 26th November 2022)

Elise Taylor (2020) These Stylish Furniture Rental Companies Are Making it Easier to Upgrade Your Space Available at: https://www.vogue.com/article/stylish-furniture-rental-companies-upgrade-your-space (accessed 15th December 2022)

Grazia Ty Gaskins (2022) Cabincore is Tiktok’s latest aesthetic you need to know Available at: https://graziamagazine.com/us/articles/cabincore-tiktok-aesthetic/ (accessed 18th November 2022)

Hillary Brown (2018) Everything You Need To Know About Mid-Century Modern Design Available at: https://www.housebeautiful.com/design-inspiration/a22877276/mid-century-modern-design-explained/ (accessed 6th December 2022)

Hommes Studio (2022) What is Memphis Design Style and Why It Is Back Available at: https://hommes.studio/journal/what-is-memphis-design-style/ (accessed 7th December 2022)

Kristin Hohenadel (2022) What is Memphis Design? Available at: https://www.thespruce.com/memphis-design-style-5095944 (accessed 7th December 2022)

Puntofilipino (2022) Projects Avaiable at: https://www.puntofilipino.com/ (accessed 2nd December 2022)

Rose and Grey (2017) A Brief History of Mid-Century Modern Design Available at: https://www.roseandgrey.co.uk/news/a-brief-history-of-mid-century-design/#:~:text=The%20Mid%2DCentury%20style%20first,through%20Europe%20at%20the%20time (accessed 6th December 2022)

Sara Tardiff (2020) 8 Mid-Century Modern Décor & Style Ideas Available at: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/midcentury-modern-decor-basics-that-every-beginner-should-know (accessed 6th December 2022)

Spandita Malik (2022) Nā́rī 2019 & 2020 Available at:https://spandita-malik.com/projects (accessed 26th November 2022)

Stuart McGurk (9th May 2014) The kids were alright Available at: https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/mod-culture-sixties-fashion (accessed 27th November 2022)

Studio HagenHall (2022) Projects Available at: https://www.studiohagenhall.com/ (accessed 30th November 2022)

Tashma Kritzinger (2022) ZZ’s Guide to Sustainable Furniture Available at: https://zzdriggs.com/pages/who (accessed 17th December 2022)

Tatreez and Tea (2022) Fabrics Available at: https://www.tatreezandtea.com/ (accessed 26th November 2022)

Thebe Magugu (2022) AW 2021 Available at: https://www.thebemagugu.com/ (accessed 26th November 2022)

Walala and Ambar (2022) Collection Available at: https://ambarldn.com/collections/camille-walala-collection (accessed 10th December 2022)

Walala Studio (2022) Projects Available at: https://www.camillewalala.com/ (accessed 10th December 2022)

WGSN (2021) Key Trend: Statement Rugs Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/interiors/article/92397#page7 (accessed 17th November 2022)

WGSN (2022) Interiors Forecast A/W 23/24: NatureVerse Available at:https://www.wgsn.com/interiors/article/92650#page16 (accessed 25th November 2022)

[jayther]

The correcting feature of typewriters is not what I thought I was really taken aback when I learned how this works. Links 'n' stuff The Engineer Guy's video explaining the Selectric mechnism (It also has way better high-speed footage!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRCNenhcvpw Technology Connections on Twitter: https://twitter.com/TechConnectify The TC Subreddit https://ift.tt/MwLrsia This channel is supported through viewer contributions on Patreon. Thanks to the generous support of people like you, Technology Connections has remained independent and possible. If you'd like to join the amazing people who've pledged their support, check out the link below. Thank you for your consideration! https://ift.tt/eVkmnRb Oh, and look at these wonderful patrons! Philipp Saß, Kenneth Perronne, Mark Lewin, Victor , Jared Fry, Nathan Bergey, Steve Davis, Keiran Hillcoat, David Lefton, Chris O'Dea, Tyler, Jason and Katie Corradino, Alex Gartrell, Spencer R, William O'Driscoll, Sam Ellis, Christian Bikle, Christian Czekay, Andrew Backer, Jonathan Tunnell, Forrest P, FrenchSword , Mike, David Green, Marie and Peter, Kevin Rogers, Ian Greig, Jaye Martindell, UbiquitousChris, Luke Hogan, Brian Alvarez, Kevin Marty, Bram , Paul Adamski, Anders Madsen, Josh Jones, Chrono , Pietro Gagliardi, Kornel , Becca Roughton, Romans Bajevs, Fernando Martinez, David Carpenter, Density, Joseph Shivak, Ben Douglass, Brentton Paulus, Nicholas Bellamy, Noah Kantrowitz, Lauren Nodonly, Paul Schermerhorn, Colleen Dunseath, Tashlin Familiy, Lellius Rose, andritolion, Adi , Christopher Berger, Nathaniel Kren, Simon J, Chris Dion, RICHARD CROWLEY, EmpiricalFox, Alex, Thomas Schenck, Clark Marx, Sierrajulietalpha, Rambling Nerd, James Cooper, ​, Joe Athman, Stewart Smith, Timothy Conard, Ron A Goldberg, Jon S., Mike Dean, Kyle Van Essen, Trevin Beattie, Joris Lankhorst, Dennis Hulsman, Ryan Gordon, Buddy DarDar, Steve Washington, Stainless, John F. Woods, Lianne Schroeder, Stuart Young, Sugarschild, Emerick Touilloux, Kate Bates, William Carpenter, Seren Ward, Tyler Dare, Steve Stuart, Axel Kingsley, Nuck, RangerMankin, Yuriy Taraday, Michael Kelly, Aaron Nichols, Paul Z, Anthony Castelli, Tony Drake, Zachariah Elliott, Jacob Jernigan, Isaac Oxendale, kyle, Ryan the Human, Sean King, Martin Wilson, Rad , Syswrek, Brian Roediger, Andrew Newton, Kas, S. C., Randall, Ian Washish, Neil Sly, Connor Crowley, the-alchemist , Neil Enns, Lettow , Brian Place, monoirre , Roland Roberts, Kurt Yun-Doyle, Jaap van Muijden, Anatoly Tishaninov, Dan Coster, Tyler Young, naota3k , James Hartnett, Laketri, Logan Koch, Patrick Neary, Andrew Larson, Trevor Powell, Zachary Boe, Dan Stark, Danny Griffin, Cale Sugg, Philip , Tristen Locklin, Spirit Bear, GigaDan , Simon , Rick Walker, Amir Omidi, Robert Gilbert, Christopher McKeen, Sophie Wagner, Marc Chametzky, Matt Nunes-Spraggs, Blythy, Cameron Duncan, Madellyn S, Javier Marinkovic, Dahip95, Five-Toed Sloth Bear, Kevin Copeland, ZeosPantera, Joseph Schmigel, Harald Dehner, LegoZEV via YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE0U018Copw

#IFTTT #YouTube #The correcting feature of typewriters is not what I thought #Youtube

[black-is-no-colour]

Vogue UK September 2020, Story "A Change of Pace". John Galliano, photographed by Thomas Lohr. "Fashion is my lover. She taunts me, devours me, pushes me to strive for excellence; to create, to breathe, to live." Article by Anders Christian Madsen.

#Maison Margiela #Margiela #Maison Margiela by John Galliano #John Galliano #Galliano #Thomas Lohr #Anders Christian Madsen #fashion #designer #fashion designer #couturier #Vogue #Vogue UK #British Vogue #fashion photography

[goalhofer]

2020 Olympics Denmark Roster

Archery

Maja Buskbjerg-Jager (Nørre Broby)

Athletics

Thijs Nijhuis (Copenhagen)

Abdi-Hakin Ulad (Skælskør)

Ole Hesselbjerg (Charlottenlund)

Kojo Musah (Aarhus)

Simon Hansen (Herning)

Tazana Dyrbak-Kamanga (Nairobi, Kenya)

Frederik Schou-Nielsen (Copenhagen)

Anna Møller (Copenhagen)

Sara Slott-Petersen (Nykøbing Falster)

Emma Bomme-Beiter (Copenhagen)

Astrid Glenner-Frandsen (Copenhagen)

Ida Karstoft (Copenhagen)

Mathilde Kramer (Copenhagen)

Rowing

Sverri Sandberg-Nielsen (Tórshavn)

Joachim Sutton (Roskilde)

Frederic Vystavel (Copenhagen)

Ida Gørtz Jacobsen (Copenhagen)

Christina Juhl-Johansen (Tommerup Stationsby)

Fie Udby-Erichsen (Hobro)

Hedvig Rasmussen (Fredriksberg)

Frida Sanggaard-Nielsen (Copenhagen)

Trine Dahl-Pedersen (Copenhagen)

Sailing

Jakob Precht-Jensen (Aarhus)

Jonas Warrer (Aarhus)

Christian Lübeck (Lyngby)

Ida Baad-Nielsen (Aarhus)

Marie Olsen (Aarhus)

Lin Cenholt (Aarhus)

Lærke Buhl-Hansen (Copenhagen)

Anne-Marie Rindom (Søllerød)

Shooting

Jesper Hansen (Bjergsted)

Steffen Olsen (Aarhus)

Rikke Ibsen (Herning)

Anna Nielsen (Funen)

Table Tennis

Jonathan Groth (Copenhagen)

Wrestling

Fredrik Bjerrehuus (Herning)

Badminton

Anders Antonsen (Aarhus)

Viktor Axelsen (Dubai, U.A.E.)

Kim Astrup-Sørensen (Copenhagen)

Anders Rasmussen (Copenhagen)

Mia Blichfeldt (Solrød Strand)

Maiken Fruergaard-Sørensen (Hvidovre)

Sara Thygesen (Frederiksberg)

Mathias Christiansen (Copenhagen)

Alexandra Bøje (Copenhagen)

Canoeing

Sara Milthers (Copenhagen)

Julie Frølund-Funch (Copenhagen)

Bolette Iversen (Copenhagen)

Emma Jørgensen (Bursø)

Cycling

Kasper Asgreen (Kolding)

Jakob Fuglsang (Geneva, Switzerland)

Christopher Juul-Jensen (Kilmacanogue, Ireland)

Michael Valgren-Hundahl (Østerild)

Niklas Larsen (Slagelse)

Lasse Hansen (Faaborg)

Rasmus Pedersen (Odense)

Frederik Rodenberg-Madsen (Værløse)

Michael Mørkøv-Christensen (Kokkedal)

Sebastian Fini-Carstensen (Hellerup)

Emma Norsgaard-Jørgensen (Silkeborg)

Cecilie Uttrup-Ludwig (Fredriksberg)

Amalie Dideriksen (Kastrup)

Julie Leth (Aarhus)

Caroline Bohé (Hillerød)

Malene Degn (Copenhagen)

Simone Christensen (Aaarhus)

Equestrian

Peter Flarup (Søndre)

Andreas Schou (Kolding)

Cathrine Dufour (Hvalsø)

Carina Cassøe-Krüth (Hobro)

Nanna Skodborg-Merrald (Hvalsø)

Golf

Rasmus Højgaard (Billund)

Joachim B. Hansen (Hørsholm)

Nanna Madsen (Copenhagen)

Emily Pedersen (Copenhagen)

Handball

Niklas Landin-Jacobsen (Søborg)

Magnus Landin-Jacobsen (Søborg)

Emil Jakobsen (Kerteminde)

Magnus Saugstrup-Jensen (Aalborg)

Lasse Svan-Hansen (Lille Heddinge)

Kevin Møller (Tønder)

Henrik Møllgaard-Jensen (Bramming)

Mads Mensah-Larsen (Holbæk)

Henrik Toft-Hansen (Skive)

Mikkel Hansen (Helsingør)

Morten Olsen (Osted)

Jóhan Hansen (Tórshavn, Faroe Øer)

Lasse Andersson (Copenhagen)

Jacob Holm (Esbjerg)

Mathias Gidsel (Skjern)

Judo

Lærke Olsen (Hørsholm)

Skateboarding

Rune Glifberg (Copenhagen)

Swimming

Tobias Bjerg (Bagsvaerd)

Anton Ipsen (Birkerod)

Alexander Nørgaard (Birkerod)

Helena Bach (Holstrebo)

Emilie Beckmann (Tune)

Pernille Blume (Herlev)

Signe Bro (Ballerup)

Julie Jensen (Hvidovre)

Jeannette Ottesen (Kongens Lyngby)

Clara Rybak-Andersen (Charlottenlund)

Karoline Sørensen (Copenhagen)

#Sports #National Teams #Denmark #Races #Kenya #Boats #Tennis #Fights #U.A.E. #Switzerland #Animals #Golf

[evoifc]

Fendi FALL 2021 COUTURE

BY ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN

#fendi couture

[fashionbooksmilano]

Louis Vuitton  Virgil Abloh

Classic Balloon Cover & Classic Cartoon Cover  

Anders Christian Madsen

Assouline, New York 2022, 359 pages, Over 320 illustrations, English language, Silk hardcover, 24,2 x 33 cm., ISBN   9781649801838  

euro 125,00

email if you want to buy :[email protected]

When Virgil Abloh took his first bow for Louis Vuitton in June 2018, fashion changed forever. The newest addition to the Classics Collection, Louis Vuitton: Virgil Abloh honors the designer’s boundary-breaking creativity on and off the runways. With over 250 stunningly iconic images and personal reflections from Abloh’s inner circle, including Nigo, Naomi Campbell, Luka Sabbat, Kendall Jenner and Kid Cudi, the book is the definitive chronicle of a partnership that redefined not only dress codes but their very vocabulary. Made in Italy, the Classics collection editions are available in two different silk hardcovers. One cover features a cartoon artwork from Virgil’s spring-summer 2021 show by cultural icon and artist Reggieknow, and the other cover is taken from Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton’s spring-summer 2022 spinoff show in Miami.Please note that the interior content is the same for the Classics and Ultimate editions.  

Anders Christian Madsen is a fashion writer who contributes to international fashion publications and has served as Fashion Critic for British Vogue since 2017. He works as a consultant to leading fashion houses and sits on committees devoted to emerging talent. Raised in Denmark, he graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2009 and began his career as Fashion Features Director at i-D Magazine. Madsen was a close collaborator of Virgil Abloh throughout his time as Men’s Artistic Director at Louis Vuitton from 2018- 2021.

27/10/22

orders to:     [email protected]

ordini a:        [email protected]

twitter:         @fashionbooksmi

instagram:   fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano tumblr:          fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano

#Louis Vuitton #Virgil Abloh #two different covers #Balloon & Cartoon covers #Reggieknow #Nigo #Naomi Campbell #Luka Sabbat #Kendl Jenner #Kid Cudi #fashion books #fashionbooksmilano

[roseclothes]

Miu Miu FW23

From Anders Christian Madsen's review for Vogue

After keeping it together through a season of subdued elegance and modest formality—the new official dressing decorum of the not-so-roaring 2020s—there were cracks in the polish as Miu Miu rang out a sombre month of shows to a frantic jazz soundtrack. Sure, all the courteous components were there: the humble muted color palette, the brave broad-shouldered tailoring, the polite jupe skirt and the played-down surface decoration. But this girl wasn’t fooling anyone.

[T]he reduced Miu Miu silhouette and quiet colors also evoked a wartime sensibility. [...] “A little serious,” Prada said. “I like to embrace that in this moment. Maybe I’m too careful about what’s happening around us, but I can’t leave fashion like some place of nonsense. There’s some excitement and sexiness there,” she paused. “But basically, I think we have to dress for thinking. And for starting fresh.”

Comment under runway video

You have to respect the fact that Miu Miu has never really tried to be anything else. You can easily compare it to Prada, but in my fan fiction, Prada looks to Miu Miu for inspiration, not the other way around. Miu gives no fucks. I feel that story viscerally. It's clear and precise. It's distilled. That's why I believe the house can get away with being a little tatty. It's the concept born of this moment and Miu Miu has been doing it all this time so well. She's been irreverent and a little snotty and definitely more deconstructed than the moment should allow. So many houses trying to relax their silhouettes a bit, take note. This is how you do it. Above everything, I feel the complete departure of Raf's vision here. This is Miuccia and it makes me desire her voice more clearly at Prada. This is the girl I want to see walking down the street, -12C, in hot pants, not a care in the world except to look effortless. Just ahead of the pack, as usual.

[haydee-gd]

[102319 - VOGUE] Seoul Fashion Week Was Missing Some Of The City’s Finest Exports

The brands that are truly making waves in the cooler corners of Seoul are nowhere to be seen around the city’s fashion week, says Vogue’s fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen.

News that G-Dragon’s discharge from military service is now a matter of days away wasn’t just the hot topic of last week’s fashion shows in Seoul for obvious reasons. Next to being one of the biggest pop idols on the planet, GD – as the kids call him – represents the elusive South Korean cool factor the country’s fashion industry is so crucially trying to market. Watching the shows at Seoul Fashion Week, it’s apparent how much the city’s vast but emerging designer landscape needs to draw on the effortless millennial whispering G-Dragon masters so eloquently. His clothing label PeaceMinusOne casually releases t-shirt drops and Converse All-Star collaborations with superior insight into what makes the young generations swoon. It’s an Off-White-esque approach to the new fashion market that each of the infinite young brands in Seoul wants to mimic, but which few – if any – on the official show schedule seem to get right.

I far from attended all of the hourly shows that fill said schedule for six days, some of which even group designers back-to-back in a tent dedicated to emerging talent. But as something of a veteran at Seoul Fashion Week, it became apparent to me this season how fundamental it is that this platform restructures its approach and creates a more intimate, more exclusive and more curated pedestal for its fashion export. While labels like D-Antidote, Youser andMünn have become recognisable names for those in-the-know outside of the South Korean borders, the brands that are truly making waves in the cooler corners of Seoul are nowhere to be seen around the city’s fashion week.

Notably missing are This Is Never That, a brand that so perfectly captures the current appetite for bringing performance wear into the urban wardrobe, and LMC (Lost Management Cities), which makes the kind of normcore sportswear and gritty stylised campaign films that make Gen Z tick. Where is KB Lee aka Fakesickness? And Wooyoungmi, a highly established brand that shows in Paris and should be represented in its hometown, too? Where is Juun.J?

Most loud in its absence was of course PeaceMinusOne, which should be the crown of Seoul Fashion Week’s USP. You could compare it to the London men’s shows without A-Cold-Wall, or even the London women’s shows without Victoria Beckham.

Seoul Fashion Week does a lot to nurture emerging talent: alongside that Generation Next tent within the soul-destroying Zaha Hadid spaceship – the Dongdaemun Design Plaza – that hosts fashion week, which desperately needs to use locations around the city instead, there are mentoring schemes in place to further the development of new designers. But in order to motivate the talent graduating from the city’s colleges, Seoul Fashion Week needs to elevate itself to an aspirational level. For international visitors and the local industry alike, this platform has to showcase the coolest, most esoteric brands, models, artists and musicians that South Korea has to offer. Currently, they are MIA; for that same lack of cool factor.

In that sense, it was curious to see how the newest names on the official schedule all seemed to be boding an impending apocalypse. Seokwoon Yoon played dystopian techno, showed tracksuits almost identical to Balenciaga’s, and wrote “Nothing Inside” on clothes including a garment worn as a dress. Sling Stone, another young label, seemed to be imagining a dystopian Lord of the Fliesscenario, with all the single black feather headpieces and anarchic hacked-up tailoring and sportswear that notion entailed. They even played a painful piano version of Michael Jackson’s “Bad”.

The designer Dozoh presented a collection that felt like an off-limits government UFO facility with test lab utility wear, the word “Stranger” and an ID number sprawled across the back of a trench coat. And in the Young Talents Show, one debuting designer came out wearing a t-shirt that read “Don’t Burn Our Future”. It was no doubt a political or climate-centric statement, but it doubled as a message to this local industry that a serious makeover is called for. Seoul has the cool factor. It just needs to put it into play.

#bigbang #gdragon #Kwon Jiyong #peaceminusone #fashion

[lalexisg]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Gucci x Balenciaga Hacker Project.

[dailyexo]

Lay - 191106 Fashion Critic Anders Christian Madsen's Instagram update: "@pppiccioli and @layzhang chez #ValentinoDaydream at the TRB Temple @maisonvalentino"

Credit: anderschristianmadsen.

#EXO #EXO M #Lay #191106 #exo im #exo m im #lay im #191106 valentino #mention #instagram #fs:anderschristianmadsen #comeback:Tempo #followup:Shot