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pittsbenin · 7 years
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I’m Being Social!
So, my site mate has been gone for three weeks and will return tomorrow. During those three weeks, I have been more social with the Beninese than I have ever been. For example, I have been playing cards with my neighbor, having long conversations with my administration and even took two separate Beninese people (my censure and my homologue) to the buvette for a drink! I know it doesn’t seem like much, but I am not a particularly social person and it seems like a lot for me.
I don’t know why I am doing more socially in my community. It can’t just be because I don’t have my site mate, because I spent three months alone in Kouande before she came. I think I am just becoming more comfortable.It can take me a long time to open up, and I guess I finally have. And it has been awesome. I’ve gotten to know more about these people and even had a few very interesting political conversations. I hope my new found social-ness continues.
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pittsbenin · 7 years
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Feeling a Bit Homesick
So, it has been about 7 months since I have been away from home, and I’ve started to feel a bit homesick. I’ve been watching stuff about Pittsburgh on youtube (Pittsburgh Dad, Rick Sebak documentaries, etc.) and listening to the Clarks. I’m not so homesick that I am thinking of ETing (early termination), but there are definitely some things I miss about home. As a sort of catharsis (I realized early on that only about 2 or 3 people read this blog, so everything I write on here is really just cathartic or for my own personal memories) I will list some of the things.
1) Family (Of course!)
2) Rain/snow (I’ve been looking up pictures of rain on tumblr to remind myself what it looks like. I haven’t seen it since October and will not see it until the summer.)
3) Food (Especially a greasy pizza or anything with meat in it. I am afraid of trying the butcher here, so any meat I eat has been sent to me in care packages or the rare times I go to a restaurant.)
4) Good alcohol (The wine sucks here. Apparently, the beer does, too, but I hate beer so I have never tried it. Completely out of luck on my drink of choice: cider.)
5) Cold weather (I love sweaters, snow and cuddling up under a million blankets. I think I would’ve been happier in Peace Corps Mongolia.)
There are of course a million other things I miss, but these are the top ones as of this moment. I want to state that I do not hate it here. Being in Benin has a lot of benefits. I feel freer as a teacher than I did in the States (not as much paperwork!), the people are super nice, I do have access to friends and the internet, my village can be super pretty...basically, there are a lot of pluses living here. It’s just that, when you are away from home for so long, you sometimes long to be back
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pittsbenin · 7 years
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An Ultimately Unsuccessful Quest
I went to Nati on Friday with the intention of refilling my gas, checking the post office for any packages, grabbing some food at the grocery store and heading back home before nightfall. Unfortunately, Nati has apparently been out of gas for three weeks. A little depressed about the lack of gas, I decided to stay the night despite the fact that there was a BAM (Benin Against Malaria) meeting taking place there.
It is nice meeting up with fellow volunteers and discussing random stuff. I even got to meet three volunteers that I have never met before. One volunteer decided to make us all awesome fruit smoothies, which some people decided to make alcoholic. (Nati’s nickname is Fratitingou among the volunteers because of its un-Peace Corps representative male-to-female ratio and large drinking culture. I am often the only sober person when I visit the workstation.)
I completed my other tasks in the late afternoon (I did have a package!) and returned to the workstation in time to go out to dinner. We went to La Breche (a really nice restaurant near the workstation that has a replica of the traditional houses in the north and caters to expats and tourists) where we all got the antelope and fries (the options that day were limited). As always, the fries were amazing and even the antelope tasted good. Unfortunately, the antelope had stray hairs on the meat (kind of like if you have a boxer who is shedding and walks past the food you for some reason laid on the ground (RIP Beethoven, my own boxer who was put to sleep last week)) so I couldn’t eat too much of the meat.
After dinner I helped one of my newly met volunteers find eggs and she made us banana pancakes. I spent some time relaxing and talking to the few volunteers (none of which were from the Nati area) who did not go out drinking before calling it a night. I left the next morning to Kouande by zem, but not before leaving my gas tank and some money with a guard who promised to get me gas as soon as it was available. Not wanting to destroy Dawn’s kitchen again, I dropped a lot of money to buy a gas tank from a different company that operates in my village. The gas for some reason doesn’t work as well (I have to turn in on full blast to even maintain a weak flame) but its sufficient. In the single day I had it, I boiled water, made garlic mac’n’cheese, baked a pepperoni pizza and I am about to make chocolate pancakes. Just have to sift the weevils out of my flour first!
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pittsbenin · 7 years
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And the Winner of the Worst Site Mate Award Is...
I am officially a terrible site mate. My gas ran out on Sunday and I can’t go to Nati and replace it until tomorrow (Friday). Thankfully, my site mate (who is currently in Cotonou for non-emergency medical reasons) let me use her stove for the week. Somehow, despite having no cooking issues in the seven months I have lived in Benin, managed to set her table on fire and melt her pot on two separate occasions. I put out the fire before it did any damage (just a tiny scorch mark on the table) but the pot is completely irreparable. I did sweep her house though!
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Behold! A ruined pot!
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pittsbenin · 7 years
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Franglish
Last night, I finally got to meet the other white guy in my village. His name is Damien and he is attached with the Catholic church in Kouande where he teaches chemistry and accounting at the Catholic school. He will return to Marseilles in September to complete seminary school.
I have been trying to meet him since coming to Kouande, but he always disappears after mass. My site mate, who lives near the church and often visits the orphanage, finally made contact and arranged a dinner for last night. It was a voodoo festival, so all of us had off and it seemed like a good time to meet. (Voodoo isn’t a thing in the north, so it was just a day off for the people up here. Kinda like a bank holiday.) We met at the good restaurant in town and had sandwich americain, which is sorta like a Philly cheesesteak.
My french, being terrible, and Damien’s English, being terrible, meant that we had a Frnglish conversation with Dawn (my site mate) occasionally acting as translator, but even her French isn’t good enough to eliminate all misunderstandings. We spent about five minutes hung up on the word “summer.” Eventually, Damien joked we should just speak in Bariba so we would all be on equal footing. (While all three of us could greet each other in Bariba, that is about the extent of our combined knowledge.)
He was super nice, though, and was encouraging of my French. We were able to have some conversations as well, from discussing discipline in Beninese schools (the prevalence of corporal punishment and strategies of alternative discipline that the students will respond to) to the plot of Supernatural (who knew a soon to be French priest would be so into a show about demons). We also weirdly got on the topic of the amount of big bills collected when the collection baskets are passed out in Monaco churches.
I was surprised how much I was able to communicate. His occasional attempts at English and Dawn’s occasional translations helped immensely, but a lot of the conversation (even on my part) was in French. I am growing a bit stronger and more confident in French. I think trying desperately to explain English grammar concepts using French has helped. 
All in all, it was a good night. I hope to meet up with Damien again. While I love the Beninese people, I also love discussing Trump and the Avengers. It is nice having a (somewhat limited) conversation with westerners occasionally. 
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pittsbenin · 7 years
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My Time So Far
So, it has been a while since I have updated this thing. Partially because tumblr takes up too much internet, but mostly because I am super lazy. I bought unlimited internet for the month, though, and I am really taking advantage of netflix. With my flimsy excuse out of the way, I decided maybe it is time to revisit my old blog.
So, how is life in Benin been since I last posted? Probably a mix of exciting and dull. I got sick during Thanksgiving. It was a little depressing to have been sent pumpkin pie to make for the holiday and be unable to eat it. I was glad to share with my fellow volunteers, however, and was able to sit around and talk as they all chowed down on what looked like a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner.
Christmas was a mix of exciting and depressing. I woke up early to open a package sent to me before church. I cried a bit, thinking about my family and holiday traditions, but then I turned on some Christmas music and opened my wonderful package. The day got much better after that.
I went to mass with my new site mate (she is awesome, btw) and the church was interestingly decorated. The small manger scene was dwarfed by blinking Christmas lights and there were Santa ornaments hanging from pink streamers crisscrossing the ceiling. Mass was super long, though, aided by the fact that there were a ton of Christenings taking place. My French tutor’s baby was one of the children being Christened.
After mass, my site mate made us lunch and we watched a movie. I then went back home to take a nap and change. At 5, we met up with our close mate (he lives 15 minutes away) at the nice restaurant in own. I’m not sure if I have mentioned him, but my town has a chef who went to culinary school in France. As long as you give him a few days warning, he will make you almost anything. While it may not be the best food I have ever had, it is amazing when all you have eaten is spaghetti and pate for the past month. I had lasagna, and we ordered a cake for dessert. Afterwards, we went to my place for some wine and to play cards. It was pretty low-key, but enjoyable.
Yesterday, I went to Pehonko (sp?) to visit some other volunteers with my site mate. The town was having their Fete de Gani (a Bariba festival where the people pay homage to their king; involves dancing horses) so we came to see it. We spent more time hanging out (and having amazing rice cakes) and missed mos of the fete, but I have seen the one in Kouande and wasn’t that upset. I didn’t know that such an awesome town (though none can beat Kouande) was only an 1 1/2 hour zem ride away. I will definitely be back! (Plus, the town apparently has an awesome market that actually has fruits and vegetables.)
Random things I want to share about my trip to Pehonko (pretty sure Google maps is lying to me about the spelling):
1) I saw I guy wearing a Hemköp shirt, which made me miss both Sweden and grocery stores.
2) My zem driver was speeding on the way home. I had to actually hold onto the seat (Beninese people don’t do that) and felt like I riding the Jack Rabbit. Made great time, though.
3) We had an omelette for lunch and watched soccer as we ate. It made me miss the omelette place that was in Kouande during my site visit, but closed before I moved there permanently. 
4) One of the stores was selling creepy plastic masks. The minion will haunt my nightmares.
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Me opening my Christmas package.
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Cake!
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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The First Three Weeks
I am back in Nati after my first three weeks at post to do some banking and check me email. I also bought a wireless internet router, so hopefully I will be able to update this more often. I wouldn’t hold my breath, though. I also wanted to buy a fridge, but the internet was too expensive. Maybe I’ll get one next month.
So, you’re probably wondering what my first three weeks as an official volunteer were like. I am not going to lie, I did not do much. At one point, I remember idly wondering if sitting at a buvette for an hour each day while drinking a coke and reading a book counted as integrating into the community. Somehow, I doubted it. For the first two weeks, besides buying food at either the market (every 4 days) or a boutique near me, that was the only time I really wondered out of my house. Hey, the couch was comfy and the books were calling. (I am a huge book nerd. I cried the first week when a main character from a series whose new book was recently released died. Also kinda upset I couldn’t turn to the internet to fellow fans to complain.)
School started in my third week, which gave me something to do. While most people don’t teach in the first week because most students don’t show up until later, my homologue made me teach my first class. After that, I thought “Fuck it, might as well teach them all.” So I actually taught me first week. 
I am teaching one 6eme (6th grade) class, two 5eme (7th grade) classes and co-teaching a 4eme (8th grade) class with my homologue. For 5eme I just did a review all week, but I couldn’t do that with 6eme, so I taught them simple greetings.
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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Officially a Volunteer!
I don'the really have much to say today. Just wanted to announce that as of yesterday, I am officially a Peace Corps Volunteer and not a trainee!
We had our swearing in at the ambassador's house in Cotonou. The house was very nice and the ambassador was even nicer. She was very friendly, down to earth and approachable. She even gave us all free pins when we asked where one could acquire some. Mingling was, as always, torturous for me, but the hors d'oeuvres were amazing. Mini quiches, meatballs and cold pop! There were too many left over, so we all gorged ourselves at the ambassador's insistence.
The actual ceremony was okay. There were the normal speeches by a myriad of people, we took or pledges and then we had to sing this song that I think was completely unnecessary. The worst part was that someone tried to get us to all dance in the Beninese style. They put on a terrible song to dance to and all of, blindsided and uncomfortable, half-heartedly danced. The audience looked super bored.
I had spent way too much money in Cotonou. We went to Erevan, which is kind of like a Target with a bigger food section, to pick up items we can't find outside of Cotonou. The products were all European imports, so I spent a small fortune there. I did get Heinz  ketchup, though. As a Pittsburgher, I know that that is the only kind.
After shopping, we went to this restaurant  that was filled with white people, which was odd after so much time in Lokossa. I ate lasagna and wine (both were amazing) but paid as much as I would spend on about 20 lunches here in Lokossa.
All and all, though, I had a good time. We are back in Lokossa a and are having a pool party (and pizza!) at a hotel today. I leave tomorrow for Nati and three days later I will be in site! 
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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Almost a Volunteer
I am sorry I have not updated this recently PCT  (pre-service training) kept me pretty busy. After my two weeks site visit, my schedule was particularly full. I had model school, and as any teacher knows, teaching and lesson planning can be exhausting. It was particular hard because each week (sometimes in the middle of the week) I had to change classes so I did not get comfortable with any group of students.
I will swear in and become an "provisional" volunteer on Thursday. I am so excited! And a week from today I will be officially settled in my site. I am not going to lie, I am most looking forward to cooking for myself. While the Beninese food has grown on me, I am still a bit of a picky eater and want to be in control of how many onions go into my meal. I know I will have a few problems (bread is scarce and fruits/vegetables save tomatoes and onions are even scarcer au village) but I know I will manage.
I am also excited for some alone time. As much as I like my host family, sometimes I must just want to curl up with a good book and blast musical soundtracks. I will miss playing cards with them, though. I guess I just have to teach my new neighbors!
I really can't think of what else to share; too many things have happened. It is weird being called Chinese (our training center used to be a Chinese factory, which I assume is what causes the confusion) and drinking wine with seven year olds, but I think I am getting used to the country after 3 months here. Of course, I am sure it will be a different story once I am alone in village. Oh well, I will update this when I can, which may be a few months from now. Who knows?
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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A Walk in Lokossa
Because I crashed my bike the first time I rode it, I like to walk to the training center everyday. It is not a  long walk--only 15 minutes--and can sometimes be relaxing. I put one headphone in, too, so I can listen to music on the way. But what do I see on that 15 minutes trek?
I first have to walk down my dirt road that is covered with plastic bags and discarded weaves. There is no garbage disposal system here, so litter like this is very common. I think most people burn their trash. It definitely bothered me to begin with, but I am pretty used to it now.
Besides the trash, I also have to dodge goat droppings. Benin takes free range to a whole new level and it is common to see goats and chicken and other animals roaming the streets. They are pretty good at getting out of your way, though, so that is good.
There are street vendors and small shops on either side of the road for most of my walk. I leave pretty early, though, so most of them are closed. Sometimes I see street vendors sweeping the road in the mornings with their stick brushes. Those brushes are actually super effective.
On my walk, I also pass the stadium (there was a match yesterday and all I heard was music and vuvuzuelas) and the court house. 
The only really annoying thing about walking through the city is that some people, mostly children, wI'll yell "yovo"as I walk by. Yovo means foreigner, mostly whites. It is not meant to be offensive, but it can be a little annoying being called it all the time. There is even a yovo song the kids here sometimessage sing. So fun.
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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An Adventure Story
Like all good adventure stories, mine started out with me having no clue what was happening. My host mother asked if I wanted to go on a walk. I said yes and she told me to change. I came out in jeans and a Huffepuff tee, only to find the rest of the family in their nice tissue. We then piled into the car (the dad and I in the front while seven people piled into the back) and off we went. I was confused. Why, if we were going on a walk, did everyone get dressed up and pile into the car? 
We drove for about half an hour which, in Benin, is always a bit harrowing. We finally pull up to a barricaded bridge. They pointed across the bridge and said "Togo." I was flabbergasted and a bit worried. I did not have my passport. They told me it wasn'the a problem. We then climbed out of the car and walked across the bridge and back. We then went to a little restaurant where we had pop and spicy beef while watching some robot movie starring Hugh Jackman and (obviously) dubbed in French.
So, that was my mini adventure. It was confusing and not particularly exciting, but I can say that I am the first of my training group to go to Togo, even if it was only breifly.
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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First Update in Benin
It has been a week since I have arrived in Benin, and I have learned so many things. I have learned how to ride a zemi (motorcycle taxi) and filter my water. I have learned to sleep under a mosquito net and take my malaria pills. I even learned how to take a bucket bath!
On Saturday, we were given a host family. Mine has a mama, a papa, two girls and two boys, though there are always other people in and out of the house. My French is terrible, so communication is difficult. If I do not know a word (which is, admittedly, often) the dictionary  is always brought out. I am not sure if I have improved, but I have hope.
Often, I have to ask to be included in things. The kids mostly watch TV or play games. They have taught me a board game and a card game (neither of which I have a perfect grasp on) while I have taught them left, right center. Last night, I brought out my coloring book and the two girls (around 8 and 17) commandeered it after I left the livingroom to help make dinner.
Of the sixteen TEFL trainees here in Benin, one has already left. Another had an eye problem and had to go to Cotonou  (I am in Lokossa now) but she returned today. Right now I have limited Internet so I have to go now, but more soon. 
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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Finished Staging
I finished staging today. Tomorrow, we leave to go to Benin!
There are sixteen of us going to Benin to teach English. We come from all over the country, but it was weird to find that there were three of us from Pittsburgh. Someone else is from Cleveland, which is where my family is from. It’s kind of weird to be able to talk about local stuff and other people understand it. I was not expecting anyone else to be from my area.
Besides learning about our expectations and how to stay safe, staging was a great opportunity to get to know our fellow Volunteers. Last night, some of us even went to DC. Most of the restaurants were closed, though, so we ended up eating at this empty sports bar. While the food wasn’t great, the conversation was. I’m glad that this group of people who I will be spending three intense months of training with and then (hopefully) become part of my in-country support group are all pretty friendly.
I also called my parents today (Happy Father’s Day, Dad!) for what might be the last time before I leave. It was pretty sad saying goodbye and I could hear my mom tearing up before she hung up. I’m really going to miss my family. Because my friend group had been dwindling since graduating college (though I will definitely miss Gabe, Corrie and Tina), my family had become both my main support group and social interaction. It is definitely hard to leave that behind.
My cousin Nick proposed to his girlfriend yesterday during the US Open at Oakmont Country Club. When I read that last night, it really hit home how much I will be missing. My cousins will graduate (sorry Jess and Sam) and I will not be there as they were for me. I will probably miss weddings and births and numerous other milestones both big and small. I hate that I will miss these things, but I do not regret my decision. I just hope that a year from now I will be thinking the same thing.
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pittsbenin · 8 years
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Welcome!
Hello! I am Megan and I am about to leave for Benin with the Peace Corps. This blog will (hopefully) chronicle my adventures while there. While I am mostly intending for this blog to be read by my friends and the one or two future Peace Corps volunteers who desperately search the internet for information about life as a volunteer in Benin, I would love for anyone to follow me.
I guess I will start this blog off talking a bit about me and why I decided to join the Peace Corps. I am in my mid-20′s and went to school to be a history teacher. After graduation, though, I found myself stuck in a retail job at a department store. I tried applying for other jobs, but I had no luck. Feeling a bit down like many post-grads only about a year out of college, I began thinking about the Peace Corps. Ever since I learned about the program in high school, the Peace Corps had always been something that interested me. I’ve always loved travelling (I studied abroad three times in college) and learning about new cultures. So, I decided to apply for the Peace Corps and see what happened.
At first, the Peace Corps wanted to send me to Vanuatu. One of my recommendations was lost in the mail, however, and by the time I got the person to redo and resend the recommendation the posting was already filled. Looking back I am kind of relieved because I am not much of a water or island person.  After that I heard nothing from the Peace Corps for about three months and I assumed that I had missed my chance. Imagine my surprise, therefore, when I was checking my email at midnight one October night when I saw an email saying that I was accepted to a position teaching English in Benin. To say I was shocked was an understatement. 
So after a bunch of aggravating paperwork and medical visits (I think my dentist hates me now) I am ready to go. On Friday I will go to DC. After that, Benin. Wish me luck!
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