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laceveritas · 5 years

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Corset of silk moire, trimmed with lace and embroidered with silk thread, 1854-1855.

From the collection of Anton Priymak, St. Petersburg, Russia.

Find out more about this collection on Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/Antique-corsets-crinolines-bustles-263119877039084/?ref=hl

#corsets #historical fashion #1850s

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laceveritas · 5 years

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Found this while cleaning my room. It’s a WIP of the bodice of a Hélène Bezukhova dress for a Great Comet cosplay that I never finished and forgot I had even started making.

#i started this the last day of fashion camp and then forgot about it #may actually finish it now that i have my own sewing machine #the hard part will be finding the same fabric i used #since they had it there and i didn’t buy it myself #but i’m sure i can find something similar #i already have a helene cosplay but i’m trying to make a more accurate one #cosplay #cosplay wip #my costumes #costume design #theatre #great comet #natasha pierre & the great comet of 1812 #npatgco1812 #helene bezukhova #helene kuragina #great comet cosplay #sewing #costumes

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laceveritas · 5 years

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Did you know that beetle wings used to be sewn onto dresses? Like, hundreds of them on each dress? It's equally creepy and beautiful.

oh my stars, anyone have pictures?

#historical fashion #victorian

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laceveritas · 5 years

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Fantasy Wardrobe: Fabrics

We often call clothes silk when they are satin, velvet where they are velveteen or we have no clue what we’re on about. So today let’s look at fabrics.

Laying down the law

Many renaissance/mediaeval societies governed over who could wear what. By adding these laws you had a layer of depth to your world.

Women and men could only be dressed n clothes benefiting their position

Female servants or their daughters could not wear veils costing more than twelve pence

Knightly families could not wear cloth of gold or sable fur or velvets

The wife or daughter of a labourer were not to wear clothes beyond a certain price or a girdle garnished with silver

Cloth of gold and purple silk only worn by the royal family. This goes for ermine.

The importation of silk and lace foreigners was prohibited when the kingdom produced those textiles.

Peasant Clothing (Beggars to Merchant classes)

Wool: This was the staple of much of the clothes owned by peasants. It was in supply and it wasn’t as costly as most fabrics when undyed. It was also warm.

Linen: Forget about softness. Peasant linen was made of coarser weaves and flax. It was heavier than noble linen.

Cotton: A lightweight fabric used in hotter climates. It was softer than the linen and airier.

Fustian: heavy cloth woven from cotton, for menswear.

Leather: Leather was used for boots and shoes rather than killer jackets.

Nobility & Royalty

Cloth of Gold: Cloth made from woven threads of gold (very expensive)

Cloth of silver: cloth made from woven silver strands (very expensive)

Samite: a rich silk fabric woven with gold and silver threads

Tulle: A netting sort of material

Brocade: rich silk fabric with raised patterns sewn on it.

Cambresine: fine, lightweight linen

Cambric: thin white cotton or linen

Cypress: gauze made of cotton or silk

Damask: like brocade but the patterns are flat

Delaine : light wool/mixed wool and cotton

Lawn: sheer plain-woven cotton or linen

Sarsenet: fine and soft silk

Sateen: glossy cotton or wool

Satin: closely woven silk, shiny

Taffeta: Thickly woven silk

Velvet : piled fabric of silk, cotton or synthetic material

Velvetine: cotton with silk pile

Saxony: fine, delicate woollen fabric

Alençon Lace: intricate floral lace with three-dimensional corded detail sewn onto a fine tulle backing

Chantilly Lace: lightest of lace

Charmeuse: smooth, flowing, silk, cotton,

Chiffon: sheer and lightweight fabric

Crepe de Chine: thicker, lightly textured silk

Dupioni: crisp lusturous silk

Organza: sheer and lightweight fabric of very fine weave silk

Georgette: sheer fabric of silk

Guipure Lace: heavier lace

Designs

Embroidery: Patterns sewn on the fabric by thread

Appliqué: decorative fabric, often lace or floral motifs, sewn onto the main material

Embellishment: details such as beads, crystals, sequins, pearls

Trim: a line of material or fur that finishes off a hem or cuff.

Piping: a cord lining the fabric creating a ribbed look.

Colours

Here are the colours that you will catch your people wearing. Keep in mind that dyes had to be sourced and could be very expensive.

Peasant: brown, red or gray.

Nobility: Gold, silver, crimson or scarlet, deep indigo blue, violet colors and even deep black and pure white colors

Royalty: Purple

Furs

Mink: Soft and lightweight, silkly and glossy furs

Fox: Long, lustrous, colourful and easy to dye.

Ermine: White fur streaked with black (ONLY FOR ROYALTY)

Sable: long, luxurious, dense but light.

Wolf: thick, tough, warm but has a bad smell

Vair: fur from a red squirrel really only used for trimming.

#costume reference

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laceveritas · 5 years

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because apparently this needs to be said AGAIN

in the most general aesthetic terms possible

1600s: most witch-hunts ended in this century. no witches were burned in North America; they were hanged or in one case pressed to death

1700s: the American Revolution. Marie Antoinette. the French Revolution. the crazy King George. most pirate movies

1800-1830: Jane Austen! Pride and Prejudice! those dresses where the waist is right under one’s boobs and men have a crapton of facial hair inside high collars

1830-1900: Victorian. Les Miserables is at the beginning, the Civil War is in the middle, and Dracula is at the end

1900-1920: Edwardian. Titanic, World War I, the Samantha books from American Girl, Art Nouveau

1920s: Great Gatsby. Jazz Age. Flappers and all that. most people get this right but IT IS NOT VICTORIAN. STUFF FROM THIS ERA IS NOT VICTORIAN. DO NOT CALL IT VICTORIAN OR LIST IT ON EBAY AS VICTORIAN. THAT HAPPENS SURPRISINGLY OFTEN GIVEN HOW STAGGERING THE VISUAL DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ERAS IS. also not 100 years ago yet, glamour.com “100 years of X” videos. you’re lazy, glamour.com. you’re lazy and I demand my late Edwardian styles

I just saw people referencing witch burning and Marie Antoinette on a post about something happening in 1878. 1878. when there were like trains and flush toilets and early plastic and stuff. if you guys learn nothing else about history, you should at least have vague mental images for each era

#time periods

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laceveritas · 5 years

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yells about victorian boots

#historical fashion #victorian

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laceveritas · 5 years

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Every Eurydice costume from each production, with her having one costume through the entire show in NYTW along with the coat, and Edmonton and London both have her in the worker costume through act 2, with the only variation being that she doesn’t wear the helmet.

But that coat just stayed completely consistent minus the addition of a scarf, and then the change of the scarf.

And because there currently isn’t a picture of Eva in the worker costume, here is the ensemble:

#they really started straying away from the whole 1930s aesthetic and i'm not exactly happy about it #like her london costume wasn't bad #but i missed the whole dust bowl depression feel #we'll see what they do for broadway #tho they seem to be leaning towards the london versions #i really think the nytw version was best #costume design #hadestown #theatre #costume reference #(since i'm working on eurydice)

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laceveritas · 5 years

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Persephone through the NYTW to National Theatre productions - or - why you don’t fix what isn’t broken, what did this goddess (here referring to both Persephone and Amber) do to you Michael Krass? How did she hurt you?

But seriously, The NTYW costume is very simple, but effective, pretty, and I included all two pictures of the shawl that she has at some point in the show, probably Way Down Hadestown. It’s only downhill from here though. Mostly.

The Edmonton production is….It’s nicer in retrospect? The idea is to go more classical for her costume but also that doesn’t really fit the rest of the established context since it’s just her? However I will say, I do adore, absolutely adore her floral coat in Way Down Hadestown, A+ choice there.

And then there’s that one dress that shows up in one or two backstage pictures that replaced the one from promo pictures and videos. And I’m still bitter that it only shows up in one or two pictures and didn’t get retained to London. There’s only ever been one Hadestown costume designer since NTYW, and yet everything keeps getting changed every time. But this one is perfect.

And then London happened and I hate it. It looks okay under the coat, which also just feels off. Just general wrong conceptually. Doesn’t fit Persephone.

And the black dress. Okay so I like Persephone being the only person to wear any color as bold as her green dresses, it makes her stand out like no one’s business, but I don’t hate the idea of her having a black dress in the Underworld, it gives off the idea that she’s lost part of her identity while with Hades, at least at the point they’re at now. But also that’s not super reflected in anything texual. I don’t know, I like the idea more than I like it being a permanent thing.

Plus I still hate the design of it.

(However I will give London this, best wig.)

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laceveritas · 5 years

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