aaronleong

[aaronleong]

Has Luxury Spending Changed In The Face of Covid-19?

Friday, 5 June, 2020

The luxury goods market has been drastically affected as the global economy slips into a downturn (Gopinath, 2020), fuelled by a decline in sales revenue. Global consulting firm Bain & Company reported that the luxury market has seen a slowdown worldwide ( D'Arpizio et al., 2020). 

Despite being poised for a recovery in the second half of this year, Bain & Company predicts the global luxury market to fall by USD $100 billion, with two to three years required to recover revenue to 2019 levels which recorded an estimated €1.3 trillion globally (D'Arpizio et al., 2020). 

Claudia D’Arpizio, partner at Bain & Co forecasts that there will be a shift in spending among the rich, a refocus on personal luxury products instead of experiences. According to a study by Knight Frank Research, handbags topped the list of collectible investments in 2019 (Frank, 2020). 

I wanted to discover from secondary resources if there has been any indication of change in the spending power of the wealthy. 

I compiled data from Christie’s handbag auctions over a six month period for 2019 and this year. Auctions often present rare and desirable items and handbags are not an exception. 

As one of the two international auction houses that offers handbags at their sales events, Christie’s was preferred as it had a better handbag auction record compared to Sotheby’s. 

By comparing data from H1 of 2019 and this year, I would be able to get a rough indication if luxury spending among the women demographic has decreased in light of worldwide economic recession. 

H1 of 2019 recorded 3 auctions for handbags and accessories at Christie’s, raking in a sale total of USD $12,275,551. H1 of this year only saw one auction held from 20 May to 3 June with a sale total of USD $1,856,551. 

Held in Hong Kong, the May 2019 Handbags and Accessories auction saw a Himalaya Birkin 30 selling for USD $254,800 (HKD $2 million), a benchmark for the entire year. Compared to 2019, this year’s sole auction for H1 only saw a rare Quelle Idole sold for USD $41,935 (HKD $325,000), the highest lot of the sale. 

A lack of auctions organised this year could possibly reflect a decline in purchase sentiment, evidenced by only one auction for H1. As handbag auctions function on a consignment basis, it could also be a likelihood that Christie’s experienced a slowdown in private sellers consigning their bags. Sellers may desire to hold on to their assets rather than liquidate them in this uncertain year. 

As 2020 proceeds into the second half, I have an inkling that wealthy consumers will gradually begin to increase their spending power. However, their purchasing behaviour will be more conscious as they become decisive about the value of products. 

[aaronleong]

Dior & I

Photo: IMDB 

I’ve realised that there has been a lack an appreciation for art in my life ever since the Circuit Breaker started in April. No galleries or physical exhibitions were happening for months now and I felt a dip in my creativity and motivation.

I decided to look online to find any digital fashion or art exhibitions. I stumbled upon the idea of fashion documentaries after coming across a brief Alexander McQueen video piece on the Google Arts & Culture platform. 

Half an hour later, I was spoilt for choice between two films: Dior & I and Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton. I was in a mood for Dior so the former was simply chosen. I dedicated a quiet Saturday evening to just wind down and watch it, alongside popcorn and a glass of wine. 

Raf Simons meets his new team at Dior. Photo: Dior & I

Dior & I focused on Raf Simons’ debut tenure at Dior in the fall of 2012. The Belgian designer brought new concepts to a French maison helmed previously by John Galliano who was infamously ousted after a racist video of him was circulated online. 

The atelier workers in discussion over the collection. Photo: Dior & I

Raf arrived from RTW label Jill Sander and the couture theme was a new endeavour for him. The documentary delved into the heart and soul of Dior - the atelier. Interviews with the seamstresses provided insight as they shared their worries and apprehensions, their struggles adjusting to a new creative director’s demands but also their determination to make his ideas come to live for his first collection on the Fall 2012 runway. 

Raf Simons takes inspiration from a 1950s gown from the Christian Dior archive. Photo: Dior & I

Dior & I also helped me to understand Raf Simons’ personality better as a designer. Many designers are elusive when it came to publicity and Simons was not any different. Raf’s most recent creative job at Calvin Klein ended in failure two years ago and it was traced to a lack of understanding between CK and the designer. Now I understand why. Although Dior & I was released in 2014, it gave a rare look into Raf Simons’ work nature. Although his features presented a sense of calmness and quietness, his character was, in fact, insistent and demanding when it came to idealising his concepts. Could this be the same setting that took place in the Calvin Klein design studio too? 

After months of studying reports and statistics during my degree term, it felt so refreshing to revisit the first love that started my whole academic journey in fashion marketing, seeing creative design and tailoring come to life. Through I couldn’t relate much to the tailoring aspect highlighted in Dior & I, I personally felt at home in a fashion atmosphere which never fails to bring me back to that nostalgic charm that first enthralled me years ago. 

#Dior & I #documentary

[aaronleong]

Decoding Revenge Shopping In China

The Cartier boutique at Huaihai Road, Shanghai. Photo: alamy

The luxury market in China was hit the hardest during Q1 of this year, with consumers affected by the countrywide lockdown and unable to leave their homes. However, “best performing brands” are registering increase YoY for Q1 of 2020, according to Bain & Company. The global consultancy firm has also reported that retail store traffic has declined even as boutiques began to gradually open but consumers are now more likely to purchase and their spending power has increased.

With increased spending comes the whole concept of “revenge spending.” Coined during the 80′s, the term was used to describe the shopping deprived Chinese consumers embarking on a spending spree after the lockdown was lifted. 

The flagship Hermes store in Guangzhou. Photo: Luxuo

The prime scenario of revenge shopping would be at the Hermes flagship boutique in Guangzhou. Doors were opened on Saturday, April 11 and the rest was history. According to WWD, the boutique racked in RMB ¥19 million (USD $2.67 million) that day as VIP shoppers descended to purchase products from the store. 

Photo: Atomniu on Xiao Hong Shu

The sales revenue broke a retail record in China and while the amount was not verified by Hermes, VIP individuals have taken to social media platform Weibo to show off their new hauls. One user by the name of “Atomniu” even claimed to have spent US$142,124, with an elusive Black Niloticus Crocodile Birkin 30 listed among her purchases. 

Bain & Company forecasts that China will likely be the first country to see a fast recovery this year. Photo: Bain & Company

Will revenge shopping hold the key to a revitalisation of the luxury market in China? Despite a forecast by Bain & Company predicting a rapid rallying of the luxury market, revenge shopping will not play a significant role in the recovery. 

Screenshots of Xiaohongshu users sharing their experience shopping at the reopened Hermès flagship in Guangzhou, China. Photo: WWD

A Minority Demographic

Revenge shopping has been attributed towards HNWIs (high net worth individuals), as evidenced by the VIP clients at Hermes Guangzhou. In a research study by consultancy firm Agility Research in mid-February on 250 Chinese millionaires, 86% of respondents had a positive outlook on the future. “HNWIs are more resilient than middle income or affluent people since they have some security already,” quoted Amrita Banta, managing director of Agility Research. 

Shopping momentum is picking up pace at Sanlitun Taikoo Place shopping area in Beijing (March 17). Photo: Bloomberg

Conscious Spending 

The Covid-19 pandemic has also influenced the shopping habits of affluent consumers. According to the latest report from global communications consultancy group Ruder Finn, 82 per cent of more than 800 consumers surveyed in mid-March with an annual family income of more than a million yuan think the virus is negatively impacting the Chinese economy. They are planning to cut back on spending in the jewellery and beauty sectors but showed more willingness to spend on fine dining and high-end leather accessories.

Protective masks remain a necessity on the streets of Bejing (March 25). Photo: Reuters

Prudent Investments

The middle class consumer, the key to an uptick in the luxury market last year, has scaled back and are more cautious on spending, saving instead for essential products. A survey in March by investment bank China Renaissance involving more than 1000 respondents revealed that consumers from 1st and 2nd tier cities were more willing to save and purchase a home, car, or insurance. 

People queued up to enter a shopping mall outside a Gucci store in Wuhan on March 30. Photo: Reuters

“Revenge spending won’t become a mainstream phenomenon,” said Gao Ming, senior vice president and managing director of luxury practices in Greater China at the Ruder Finn Group. “Certain types of luxury goods may experience a warm-up in consumer demand. However, brands are facing a bigger challenge in addressing the cutback on spending, and they ought to learn how to build relationships with consumers in the post-virus era.”

[aaronleong]

Drafting A New Chapter In Life

Thursday, 28 May, 2020

With my degree programme drawing to a close after 3 years, it is time to prepare for a new chapter in my life. After much contemplation at the beginning of this year, I decided to search for a career opening before I graduated in mid June. I wanted to take opportunity of the time I had now to send my job applications to potential companies. 

I had always aspired to work in luxury fashion, an industry which truly suited my personality and aesthetics. However, little did I know at the start of this year that the Covid-19 pandemic would have serious implications on the global economy, affecting the Singapore job market and retail industry severely. 

Though the situation looks uncertain for me as a fresh graduate, I still kept my chin up with the hope that I will find a job. My job hunt began with the creation of a cover letter which served as a strong compliment to my CV. It was a long process of writing which was guided by my lecturer. I took much needed time to sit down and examine the qualities that I possessed after spending 3 years as a marketing student. I still remember writing my first cover letter two years ago during my internship period. However, this current one exhibited visible improvement with a more mature tone of voice and exhaustive content. 

Despite updating and redesigning a new CV for my Global Experience module project earlier this month, I was still not satisfied with it and decided to make several minor changes which improved the overall layout. 

I had shortlisted several companies in the luxury timepiece industry which I will be sending my application to. Coupled with my skills in marketing, my interest in horology makes this industry my first choice for a career. However, I also will be applying to two companies for a sales associate position as I also believe in keeping my options open and not insist on just one career field due to the current uncertain economic situation. 

A familiar chapter of my life is coming to an end and to be honest, I feel rather apprehensive about my future. Will I struggle to find a career and who knows where I will be in a month’s time? Or two months? Or a year from now? All I can do right now is to put in my best effort and try. I’ve got to remind myself constantly that everything will fall into place when the time is right. I have to keep my chin up. 

[aaronleong]

Musings On The 2020 Chanel Price Increase

Wednesday, May 25, 2020

A Chanel boutique at 31 Rue Cambon, Paris. Photo: CloverSac.

Gossip of a global price increase for Chanel began circling around the Purseblog forum weeks before the hike in May. There was plenty of speculation among the ladies on the percentage increase this time but more resonating was a protest over the timing in such a situation as now. 

People queue to enter the Chanel boutique at a department store in Seoul, South Korea, May 13, 2020. Photo: Reuters

The global price increase started in the second week of May, with Europe getting its revised prices on the 11th, followed by Asia on the 14th and finally the USA on the 25th. 

Regarding this increase, Chanel stated in an email to Reuters that “these adjustments are made while ensuring that we avoid excessive price differentials between countries, in line with our commitments regarding price harmonisation.”

Classic and Reissue price comparison between 2019 and 2020. 

I will solely be focusing on the Classics and Reissue models throughout this critique as they were affected heaviest by the price hike. Although the WOC and Boy models were also impacted, they hovered below a 10% raise, making the increase not unusual from the standard annual price increase year over year. The United States was affected the least by the increase in prices, never climbing over 12%. However, Europe and Australia was hit the hardest with skyrocketing increases over 15%. While the price differences across the 3 continents are now closer compared to 2019 prices, sales tax and VAT has not been factored in yet. 

A 3 year price history of the Mini Square Flap.

A perfect example is seen above, looking at the price history for the Mini Square Flap over a 3 year period. The most striking increase would be a steep 31% raise for Australia. However, such a drastic disparity in pricing is to be expected with a harmonisation strategy, considering the weaker Australian Dollar in comparison to the Euro Dollar. 

While Chanel has given its official statement regarding this year’s price increase and owing it to a global price harmonisation, I still harboured suspicions about a subtle reasoning behind their increase. It is not to say that this is the first time that the storied French maison has chosen to conduct its annual price increase in May. However, the last increase in May took place in 2017, with the consecutive 2 yearly increases occurring in November. 

I will be taking a look at two plausible reasons behind the raise which arrived at the height of an ongoing pandemic worldwide.

Covid-19 And Its Effects

Megs Mahoney, editor at Purseblog, speculated before the official raise that this year’s substantial increase was a recovery strategy enacted by Chanel due to the ongoing crisis. After all, the French luxury brand had made the decision to halt all retail and manufacturing operations, instead transforming its production towards hygiene equipment. The multi billion dollar corporation had also opted out of the French government’s partial unemployment assistance, choosing to personally fund the salary of its employees working from home. 

My issue towards this speculation is this - no matter how well intentioned they may be, why should consumers pay for the brand’s altruistic decisions? Chanel isn’t a new startup or independent designer that is financially struggling during this economy downturn. This is a multi billion dollar corporation we are addressing here. Are we as consumers going to reap the share of profits when the brand performs well? No. Prices will not be reducing either. If anything, this speculation is akin to a millionaire organising a fundraiser on social media and requesting the public to donate. 

However, WWD reached out to Chanel seeking clarification and the brand had responded that “the current situation has absolutely no link with this decision (price increase).” That being said, it looks like any speculation on the economy’s influence on the price hike is right out the window. 

Misaligned quilted diamonds on the Classic Flap in black caviar. Photo: Purseblog

Investing Into Higher Quality

“Like other luxury brands, Chanel is making financial efforts to secure its supply of very high-quality skins by investing in the supply chain and acquiring suppliers. These investments are essential to guarantee the longevity of such iconic products [and to keep them] up to the standard’s Chanel’s clients expect,” Chanel continued in its email to WWD. Chanel has stated that the brand is investing to maintain its product standards. It’s no secret among the handbag community that the brand’s quality and workmanship has deteriorated. Customers on handbag forums have cited poor stitching, malfunctioning hardware and shoddy handiwork that does not justify the ever rising premium prices. With new supply chain investments, the least Chanel could do would be to improve the quality of its products, especially for the handbag line. 

A New Alignment In 2020

“We also take great care to maintain the positioning of our creations as the highest in quality and the ultimate in luxury. We wish to retain our unique place in the eyes and hearts of our clients, and therefore offer rare and exceptional products. All of this adds value,” Chanel continued in its statement to WWD. I believe that the last sentence holds the true reason behind the sharp rise in prices - a realignment of the brand’s market positioning. 

3 year price comparison between the Reissue 227 and Birkin 30.

With prices soaring after this year’s revised prices, Chanel is borderline in the Hermes price range, albeit without the legendary exclusivity and resale value that Hermes is renowned for. Women on handbag forums have compared the new prices of the Maxi Flap and Reissue 227 to the current price of a Birkin 30 in Togo leather. I was curious to see how the prices differentiated over the years and I decided to track both bags over a 3 year period. 2018 and 2019 still saw a huge disparity between both handbags and it was only this year that the gap narrowed significantly by only €650. 

Having the audacity to conduct its annual price increase during the height of a global economy downturn is certainly a bold move for Chanel. Women may be fussing for now but the allure of the brand will always be there and they will soon be purchasing again. Chanel knows that. A small majority of handbag lovers like myself may stop purchasing new Chanel bags altogether. Of course, the brand isn’t affected in any way but we know better. Chanel has pretty big shoes to fill as they enter a new price range. Or they might just not care at all about the fine details. After all, the elite and rich never scrutinise that deep. We shall see. 

#chanel

[aaronleong]

The Hermes Magic

Friday, May 22, 2020. 

It’s only been five months into 2020 but the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic has devastated the global economy and just like hundreds of industries worldwide, luxury fashion has not been spared. 

While diverse in brands, the first quarter of this year proved to be equal across three major luxury corporations. Hermes, LVMH and Kering recorded high sales in January, thanks to the Chinese New Year holiday which saw increased spending in the Asian market. Kering even recorded a double digit growth, according to its 2020 Q1 Report. 

February started to see a slowdown in sales as stores worldwide began to gradually close, starting with the Asian region and in particular, China, where the epidemic originated. 

By March, the luxury fashion had came to a complete halt, with a huge majority of stores across the globe shuttering doors and European production facilities grinding to a halt, albeit for certain corporate factories which remained open for the production of face masks and hand sanitisers. 

“Obviously no one retailer is immune to the effects of a Black Swan event like this crisis, but there are some luxury goods retailers who are best in breed and better positioned for a recovery when that happens — and it will,” quoted Kristin Benz, retail analyst and president of KB Advisory Group.

In a time where luxury corporations are dropping in revenue, Hermes has done just that, keeping its losses to a minimum -6.5% in comparison to a severe -15% drop at LVMH and Kering. 

My research involved an examination and comparison of the 2020 Q1 Revenue Reports across Hermes, LVMH and Kering and I might have just found the 3 crucial factors which softened the blow at Hermes, contributing to its minimal losses. 

Hermes Ginza. Photo: Stéphane BDC

A Dedicated Japan Market

Q1 of this year recorded a revenue of €213.6 million, an increase of 4.6% compared to Q1 of 2019. The remarkable performance in Japan is not only the sole revenue increase at Hermes but also when compared to LVMH and Kering. This record in an uncertain time is attributed to a loyal Japanese customer base, according to Hermes. The Japan market did not share the same sentiment with LVMH and Kering brands, however. Both conglomerates recorded a loss of -10% and -17% respectively. 

Hermes Beauty lipsticks. Photo: Coveteur

The Hermes Beauty Launch

The brand’s Beauty line launched in March with its first Rouge line comprised of a collection of lipsticks and lip balms. Hermes described its foray into the beauty market as a “very successful launch” and while its Perfume line recorded a decrease of -3%, I believe that it was the Rouge collection that absorbed a potentially further loss. Despite new fragrance and skincare launches over at LVMH, the Perfume and Cosmetics branch at fared much worse as revenue went down by 18%. 

The flagship Hermes boutique in Guangzhou. Photo: WWD

An Early Store Opening

Although footfall traffic was reduced due to border control restrictions, Hermes has gradually reopened stores across mainland China and Hong Kong since mid March. Among the competition, Kering was the only corporation who chose to keep 40% of its stores open worldwide. Nevertheless, it still indicated a heavy loss for Q1. Apart from the store openings which helped to recoup a fraction of the losses sustained in February, I have a belief that the price range of Hermes has also been an instrumental factor as its products are priced on a different premium level compared to LVMH and Kering brands such as Louis Vuitton or Gucci. 

How will Hermes or even its competitors fare during the second half of this year is truly uncertain. Any growth in revenue is highly unlikely, given how the Covd-19 situation is evolving on a daily basis throughout hundreds of countries. Even though stores may have resumed operations in China, Hong Kong and Korea as luxury brands make up for lost gains, they should not offer a false sense of illusion that the coast is clear. Luxury conglomerates would need to manage their resources strategically in order to prevent further losses throughout the remainder of 2020 and possibly beyond. 

#hermes #LVMH #Kering

[aaronleong]

Ressense - Time To Draw

Monday, 11 May, 2020

Photo: Watches & Wonder

I discovered this intriguing design contest while casually browsing through watch website Hodinkee. It instantly piqued my interest as it was unusual for a watch brand to organise such a contest. 

Ressence Type 1 Slim. Photo: Monochrome Watches

Belgian watch brand Ressence collaborated with renowned auction house Sotheby��s to launch this competition. Using the Type 1 Slim as a base, contestants were invited to create a unique watch. 

Photo: Monochrome Watches.

The winning design would be produced and auctioned at Sotheby’s, with the proceeds donated towards medical research into Covid-19. 

The design was presented in a PDF format, featuring an uncoloured Type 1 Slim. Unlike the MBT competition a few weeks ago, I was motivated for this Time To Draw contest. Perhaps it was the whole aesthetic of watches which I love or maybe it was because I had an abundance of design ideas. 

Design 1

The first design which I created was inspired by the ethos of Ressense, emphasising practicality over beauty. I took that concept into mind, asking myself the question of “how can this watch be easily readable by its wearer?”

Benoît Mintiens, the founder of Ressense once explained that the entire watch was driven by the minute hand as the wearer’s eyes would naturally be drawn to the longest hand first. I started with the minute hand in red colour, contrasting it from the darker tones of other parts.The subdial hands followed the same colour suite to match. 

The days of the week are represented by the brushed steel subdial at 4 o’clock. The weekend days are highlighted by colouring them in blue and green, differentiating them from the weekday. 

I chose to utilise carbon fibre for the dial and case, making the Type 1 Slim lighter in weight compared to its original steel case. The high tech material also reflected the innovation that Ressense is recognised for. 

Last but not least, the strap is made from polycarbonate rubber, designed to be durable in all environments but yet comfortable to wear. 

Design 2

I wanted to create a Type 1 Slim that reflected a feminine image and thus, the second design was designed with the lady wearer in mind. 

The case, minute hand and subdials are made of frosted silver with texture that replicates glitter dust on the silver base. 

The dial and chapter ring is made of white ceramic. While seemingly plain, ceramic parts represents a high level of craftsmanship. A arduous process is required to sinter ceramic powder into a dial and heat it to temperatures that will melt most metals. 

The strap is made of polycarbonate rubber in a blush pink colour which complements the frosted silver case perfectly. 

#ressence #competition

[aaronleong]

Birkenstock Competition

Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Photo: Facebook

I had the opportunity to participate in this Birkenstock competition, organised by Trendz360, the footwear company behind the Cole Hann competition last year. 

A Daily Mail article roasting a woman selling a used pair of Birkenstocks.

Prior to this competition, I had little knowledge of Birkenstock, only recognising the iconic design of their sandals. While I’ve heard from family members that they are comfortable, the sight of the wearer’s black footprint stained on the sole always makes me cringe. 

The goal of this competition was to connect the community during this ongoing Covid-19 pandemic through website or social media posts, using any of their footwear models.

Social distancing enforced in Singapore. Photo: Straits Times

I immediately thought of the concept of social distancing, a practice which is absolutely familiar with the viewers targeted by Birkenstock. I took inspiration from the black and yellow striped caution tape which is set at 1 meters apart. 

The final design featured the brand’s signature Arizona model in mens and women’s sizes, placed within social distancing boxes. The caption “Apart, But Together” reinforced the whole idea for all Singaporeans staying at home that while we are separated and unable to have social interaction, we are still united together in the country’s fight against Covid-19. 

#birkenstock #competition

[aaronleong]

Global Job Opportunities

Monday, 16 March 2020

At the start of my degree course in June last year, I researched into my future career aspirations, detailing the country I desired to work in and my preferred role in the fashion industry. Fast forward to this term, I revisited my personal career goals and unsurprisingly, my life goals have changed over the past 9 months. 

Photo: Data Center Knowledge

9 months ago, I envisioned moving to the United States and finding a job in Los Angeles. There were a certain number of factors involved in my aspiration of working in the States, with the laidback weather and diverse culture playing a contributing role in my decision. 

Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles. Photo: 4URSpace

I wanted to explore the luxury retail industry, with the aim of having a career in sales as a manager. As a manager, my job role would include overseeing daily sales activities, implementing sales targets and growing the company’s profits while increasing customer satisfaction. 

Singapore skyline. Photo: CNN

Fast forward to nine months later and unsurprisingly, my goals in life have changed due to certain influential decisions as I matured and time passed. I decided to narrow my career destination back to Singapore, still focusing on luxury fashion at companies like LVMH or The Hour Glass Ltd. However, I was no longer as certain about the job position which I wanted to focus in. At the moment, I’ve been considering marketing as it was a role I was readily familiar in. Besides, it could also potentially serve as a stepping stone to other career opportunities as I start from marketing. 

One thing that didn’t change throughout the 9 months so far is my interest in the luxury sector. It  has always appealed to me with that sort of exquisite charm ever since I was introduced to fashion through blogging 5 years ago and it still holds true till today, even through all the highs and lows which resulted in many significant changes in my life. 

My career in the near future after graduation is uncertain, seeing as how the economy is so volatile in this global Covid-19 pandemic. Nevertheless, I am keeping my chin up and praying that I will have the courage and peace for the future. 

[aaronleong]

The Fashion Industry Post COVID-19

Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Photo: WWD

Ever since the coronavirus outbreak became a global pandemic, fashion companies and retailers have been laying off employees, furloughing others, and closing for an indeterminate future.

As a fashion student bound to graduate soon, the future job market certainly looks bleak and worrying. However, there seems to be a shifting trend in business models that is inevitably influenced by this global epidemic. 

Neiman Marcus prepares to file for bankruptcy. Photo: Daily Beat NY

The wholesale model where department stores buy product from fashion brands at a wholesale price, mark it up and sell it at retail price to the end consumer - may disappear altogether. According to Kristy Hunt, CEO of Kristy Hunt Consulting, a global luxury fashion recruiting agency, it is challenging for both sides to make money this way because of over-distribution, markdowns, and returns. Some bigger luxury companies such as Prada and Louis Vuitton have taken back control of their brands by instead renting space within department stores and staffing their own “shop in shops” akin to their retail stores. Through this strategy, the fashion houses own their entire brand image and they also capture the loyal department store customer — be it Saks or Bloomingdale’s. 

Louis Vuitton at The Galleria, Seoul. Photo: Seoul Architecture Guide

Brands are growing their direct to consumer and e-commerce businesses, focusing on brand partnerships and other alternate revenue streams such as fragrance and eyewear. While still retaining a presence of image in key cities, I would think that luxury and contemporary brands will be holding off expanding with large flagship stores in more locations. If there’s anything that brands have realised about nationwide lockdowns to curb the Covid-19 spread, it’s that sales are severely affected and a future lockdown could highly occur once again. 

Prada Re-Nylon Project. Photo: Mann Publications

Consumers are caring more about sustainable goods and companies are rushing to catch up and build a strategy that adapts to changing consumer values. Many new start-ups claim to have some element of sustainability to it, and a CSR mission as well. According to Kristy, we will see this more as bigger companies expand their sustainability efforts from just the communications team to hiring someone in every area of the business who deeply understands what it means to be sustainable and how to execute that strategy. More recruiting is anticipated for talent into sustainability-focused roles in the years to come. 

Updating the stay at home wardrobe with loungewear. Photo: Self

As more people stay at home, sales of food and essentials are skyrocketing. Smart business entrepreneurs may shift their businesses to provide more of what people need and not just what people want. This includes wellness products, immune-boosting supplements but also a boost in clothes you can wear at home that are chic, stylish, and comfortable. Athleisure will continue to see growth with at-home workouts. 

Will fashion change forever? Yes. Will it die? Never.

#commentary #covid-19

[aaronleong]

MBT Design Competition

Monday, March 16 2020 

Photo: MBT

This design competition was brought to my attention during the mid term. It was largely reminiscent of the Cole Haan footwear poster design which I entered last year, with the only exception being that I couldn’t relate to this brand at all. 

Prior to this competition, I had no idea of this footwear brand at all and I enthusiastically decided to find out more about their shoes. To my shock, the MBT shoes were the ugliest I’ve ever seen. Even Crocs pale in comparison to these dinosaur shoes. The brand logo alone should have given me a clue as it looks like something a construction company would use. 

The goal of this competition was to inform and persuade target customers of the benefits of MBT physiology footwear. According to the MBT creative brief, the target market was defined as health conscious 35-45 year old males and females. I felt that the brand was overly optimistic of its target market as its products seemed more suited towards senior citizens within a 65-75 years old age range. 

Jokes aside, I personally found this competition to be an interesting challenge. I had to really consider the design elements of the poster and how it would attract the attention of the brand’s target market and transpose an unsightly shoe into a modern concept. I honestly felt that I could have submitted a better design if I had more time to explore other concepts but due to the taxing assignment schedule demanded of me in my other module, I had to work with what I had. 

As this term draws to a close, I’ve realised the lesser time I’ve put into this Personal Development Planning module, as opposed to last semester. While I’ve always been able to complete the required total of 9 blogs per term last year, I struggled this term to find time in writing. 

A detrimental factor is the lack of fashion and art activities during this ongoing Covid-19 situation, preventing me from writing more blog posts. Nevertheless, I aim to finish the remaining 4 blogs during my term break and keep my chin up. The global pandemic will not stop me from doing well in my academics. 

[aaronleong]

lululemon Healthier Communities Challenge

Tuesday, 3 February 2020 

Photo: lululemon

As part of my portfolio building plan for this term, I happened to chance across this contest organised by lululemon, a well known Canadian athletic wear brand. Initially, I was quite hesitant of participating as I was worried of not doing a good job due to my existing workload which was intensive. However, my lecturer encouraged me to participate as it was an ideal opportunity to add this contest submission to my portfolio. I decided to go for it and give my best effort, despite my busy schedule. 

Photo: CNBC

The goal of the lululemon challenge was to use ideas to expand the concept of a lululemon store, with the ultimate goal of enriching customers even more than when they first entered. The creative ideas were centred around what lululemon titles as the Sweatlife, consisting of the mind, the body, and the community around us. 

Photo: Shape Singapore 

My idea for this challenge revolved around the practice of aerial yoga. For me, it encompasses the Lululemon Sweatlife by incorporating the body, mind, and community through exercise that benefits the body and emotions.

In their busy schedules daily, working women neglect the health of their body and soul. Aerial yoga helps them to connect with their inner self by shutting out all external worries and focusing on their posture. It is a holistic form of empowerment, equipping women with confidence and healthier bodies. Aerial yoga is classified as a low to moderate intensity exercise, enabling women to destress and wind down after a demanding week at work.

Entering this contest not only provided me with an essential portfolio work but also increased my knowledge of yoga and its benefits for the body and soul. I was thankful that I put in effort into this competition entry despite the demanding requirements from another module assignment. Perhaps when this exhausting term finally concludes in a month half’s time, I may find restoration in yoga.

#competition

[aaronleong]

Living With Ink: The Collection of Dr Tan Tsze Chor

Saturday, 1 February 2020

Photo: Sistic

Living With Ink highlighted the collection of Singapore's renowned art collector Dr Tan Tsze Chor. Hosted by the Asian Civilisation Museum, the exhibition included paintings by modern Chinese masters, as well as works made by artists in Singapore in the 1930s through the 1980s, when Dr Tan was building his collection.

This exhibition piqued my interest with its theme focusing on Chinese painting. Ever since young, I have been fascinated with landscape paintings and the amazing realms depicted in those art pieces which were often found displayed on the walls of Chinese restaurants. Through the collection of Dr Tan, I also desired to find inspiration that can be applied to my FFP module design project which had hit a creative block. 

 The moment I entered the exhibition hall, this statement piece caught my eye. Suspended on the ceiling and spanning across the entire length of the room, this panoramic painting featured delicate, muted brushstrokes that were broken into multiple blinds. The abstract mountains were formed by marble-like textures and I could definitely ascertain that this is modern interpretation of a traditional landscape painting. I totally loved the concept. 

Zhao Shao’Ang, Peacock, 1951

As a admirer of detail, I spent the most time studying this fascinating piece. I learnt that this peacock was meticulously painted in the realist gongbi 工笔 technique with fine lines and carefully applied strokes of colour. White paint, which has now aged slightly over 61 years into a mellow yellow tone, was used to bring out the brilliance of its eyes and the turquoise feathers. In contrast, however, the rock on which it perches is rendered in a xieyi 寫意 or freehand style which gives more freedom and expression. 

Wu Changshi, Three Friends of Winter, 1922 vs Huang Pao Fang, Three Friends of Nanyang, 1966

The deep symbolism of the Three Friends of Winter motif - pine, bamboo, and plum - is well established in Chinese literature painting. In the inscription, Huang Pao Fang names mangosteens, durians and rambutans as “The Three Friends of the Southern Kingdom.” This was his attempt as a painter trained in Shanghai, to find a new artistic vocabulary in Singapore where he settled in 1937. Nanyang (South Seas) was the name given to Southeast Asia by the Chinese then. It is always exciting to see creative reinterpretations that are adapted according to the local style. 

I enjoyed the weekend afternoon spent slowly browsing through the exhibition. It was a welcome getaway from being at home working on assignments but I definitely picked up new ideas that gave me renewed motivation for my design project. 

[aaronleong]

Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear

Friday, 28 February 2020 

Photo: Vogue

With only four more days to go at Paris Fashion Week, I decided to review my top 3 favourite designers from across the Big 4 cities so far as Fall 2020 rapidly draws to a conclusion. 

 Best Atmosphere - Gucci (Feb 19)

Photo: The New York Times

Gucci opened Milan fashion at 3 PM on a Wednesday afternoon with a major bang. Alessandro Michele has always been insistent about creating live experiences but this show is evident that he has not ignored the demands of this modern digital age. 

Photo: bryanboy

Michele sent his show invitation via WhatsApp, an attention grabbing yet sustainable move that is a green alternative to the tons of waste created by show production.

Photo:  YouTube

Michele stripped the show of walls, exposing the hair and makeup crew as they prepped 60 models, giving the crowd access to the action behind the scenes.  

Photo: The Straits Times

The show was staged on a giant rotating platform which provided the audience with a full 360 degree view of the process that typically went behind a runway. “You were our show, and we were your show,” quoted Michele. 

Photo: Marie Claire

For Gucci’s last season show, Michele took inspiration from the Tom Ford era during the 90′s. However, he seemed to go further back this Fall, seen in looks influenced by the clothes of young girls - school uniforms and pinafore dresses. 

The avant-garde nature of Alessandro Michele that has become a captivating essence of Gucci, evident from his casting of modern models which were a stark contrast from the traditional clothes that they wore.  There seemed an majority of overly thin models onstage, however. Truer body diversity would have made this show more resounding. 

Best Design - Marine Serre

Photo: Fashionista

“The hardest part is to keep calm in the eye of the storm,” quoted Marine Serre backstage a day before her 10:30 AM show on Tueday in Paris. “Things are changing so fast... But I am trying to keep calm and focus on creativity,” she added. 

Photo: Vogue 

Serre has always been attentive towards global issues and her description of the chaotic world today - from environment disasters to the recent coronavirus outbreak, rang crystal clear in her Fall 2020 collection. Her collaboration with Swedish face mask company Airinum took on a whole new meaning in light of the insecurity caused by the virus. 

Marine Serre takes creative ideas from the world around us and the burning planet was a plight reflected in her signature moon logo, which looked as though it had been distorted by heat.

Photo: Vogue

Much of the collection focused on her label’s commitment to upcycling, which now accounts for 50% of her business, according to Serre. Intricately constructed outerwear was constructed out of leather and faux fur bedspreads and different looks utilising white lace-trimmed tablecloths. 

Best Emerging Designer - Peter Do

Photo: Suitcase Magazine

Peter Do flouts industry norms —avoiding the runway but that hasn’t stopped the industry from embracing him. His label is less than three years old but he counts Net-a-Porter, Dover Street Market, and Bergdorf Goodman as stockists.

Photo: the.peterdo

Fall is his fourth collection, a tribute to the final girl in horror films. “She’s the one who survives the journey and comes out stronger at the end,” he mused.

Photo: Vogue

There’s been a lot of tailoring in the Fall 2020 collections, but nobody’s jackets are as dynamic as Do’s: strong-shouldered, fitted through the waist, and elongated past the hips. It shouldn’t come as a surprise, as tailoring is Do’s forte at FIT. He prefers the expressing his aesthetic as “clean” compared to “minimal,” a trait he honed at Céline, helmed by the beloved Phoebe Philo. 

Photo: the.peterdo

Do launched shoes for fall and he said they instantly became one of his best-selling categories. He’s making his shoes at the footwear factory that Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens use, with Do’s square-toe boots sharing an extreme profile with Owens’s especially.

#gucci #marine serre #peter do #fashion week

[aaronleong]

TaFF Trunks: Men's Fashion Edition

Sunday, 9 February 2020

Photo: Facebook

I came to know about this event through the Textile and Fashion Federation (Singapore) page on Facebook and it instantly piqued my interest. Having interned with menswear brand Benjamin Barker two years ago during my advanced diploma course, I’ve developed a better understanding of suiting design and bespoke tailoring in mens apparel. 

While BB could be considered as the leading homegrown label in Singapore, I had no idea that other local brands were competing in the menswear market. I decided to go and take a look. 

The most surreal place in Orchard Road

The trunk show took place at Cocoon Space which was located on the roof top of Design Orchard, a retail space curated towards local brands. I had no idea that this scenic spot even though I’ve visited level one on a few occasions. 

A mellow atmosphere 

A total of 14 brands showcased at the popup store collective, ranging from bespoke tailoring to ready to wear graphic print t-shirts. The majority of them were mid priced in the $500 - $1000 range which was typical of bespoke tailoring, making them a slightly more premium offering than mass market brands like G2000 but lower in standard compared to luxury labels such as Ermenegildo Zegna. 

Lightweight fabrics utilised in garments from Meiko Tailor

Upon conversing with the owners of two different brands, I realised that many of these participating brands were still new in the market and utilised the TaFF event as a method to know more about their target market.  

Garments from Closeknip

Although Benjamin Barker had wider brand presence locally and abroad, their fabrics cannot compare to these smaller brands who use Italian made fabric in their jackets. Although the brands present are in reality, competitors against each other, one thing in common which I noticed was the fact that their clothing are produced with lightweight fabrics - practical in the awfully humid Singaporean weather. On the other hand, jackets from Benjamin Barker tended to be manufactured with thicker fabric and while on the more affordable side, they aren’t as breathable in the hot weather. 

This event was truly an eyeopener for me, getting acquainted with emerging menswear labels and their offerings which set them uniquely apart from others, whether be it their size fittings or fabrics used. The fashion scene can only be considered to be thriving when there is an abundance of competition and by the looks of it, the menswear market in Singapore is looking promising. 

#event

[aaronleong]

Raffles Open House 2020

Friday, 10 Jan 2020

Photo: studyatraffles

The Raffles Open House kickstarted this final semester with a rather quiet event, in comparison to happenings during the past six months.  

Having no prior knowledge of the open house, I was made aware of it when my lecturer inquired if my class would be keen in assisting the Fashion Marketing department by volunteering at a workshop held during the open house. I felt that it was a good opportunity to participate. 

Due to the lack of activities happening in Singapore during this term, the chance of covering it in my blog was too good to pass up, coupled with the incentive of an upcoming class being replaced with this event, should my class decide to volunteer. 

Materials for flat lay composition

As part of the open house activities, visitors would be given the opportunity to experience what students do in the fashion design, jewellery design, and fashion marketing courses. 

Visitors would first participate in the fashion design workshop where they will create art on canvas totes. Subsequently, they will go to jewellery design to fashion accessories for their totes. For the fashion marketing workshop, the outcome was to create a flat lay using their tote and accompanying props with a theme centred around environmental sustainability. 

Art generally connects with everyone. Although fashion marketing is mainly comprised of business reports and spreadsheets, I felt that creating a flat lay was an ideal activity that is both interactive and fun for visitors. 

The open house ran from in three slots, from Friday to Saturday. Given the option to pick a volunteer slot, I settled for Friday evening as I wasn’t keen on spending a valuable Saturday at school when I could be working on assignments at home.  

Props with the theme on sustainability

There was a sizeable turnout of visitors in the seminar room listening to Raffles College promote itself when I arrived at school an hour before the workshop began. I was able to take the time to familiarise myself with the flat lay props alongside my lecturer, brushing up on my arrangement skills which was last utilised a long time ago.

I prepared for a eventful night, with regards to the large crowd expected. Much to my surprise, only two individuals turned up at the FM workshop. I happened to notice slightly more people at the fashion design workshop but the majority of visitors at today’s open house most likely left after the talk. Could it have been that exhausting?

Flat lay creation by a visitor

Nevertheless, I did my best to guide the two visitors as they attempted to organise a flat lay for the first time. It was fascinating to observe their interpretation of sustainability through the props and I’m happy that they had ideas and preferences to contribute.

While it was slightly disheartening to only see such an awfully low turnout at the fashion marketing workshop, I hope that it will be more encouraging tomorrow, considering that more people might turn up on a weekend. 

#event #raffles open house

[aaronleong]

Hermes Petit H

Monday, 9 Dec 2019

Photo: Hermes

The petit h collection from Hermes made a stopover in Singapore at the end of last month and I finally found the perfect time to visit the store at Liat Towers. Marking the final blog post for this term, this little adventure to Hermes was the best way to conclude the Personal Development Planning module. 

On planet Hermes

The whimsical petit h collection was more art exhibit than interactive. Situated on the third and fourth floors of Hermes, the first space was surrealist in nature.  The scenography was created by local industrial designer Olivia Lee, handpicked by petit h’s creative director Godefroy de Virieu to bring out the natural charms of Singapore that parallel the petit h universe. 

I love overpriced knick-knacks from Hermes

Apart from pieces that are permanently sold at Hermes’s Rue de Sevres store in Paris, the limited edition collection also included pieces specially chosen and made for this Singapore, including leather charms of the iconic red plastic chairs. 

The greenhouse lab

Ascending to the fourth floor revealed a futuristic workshop which hosted more practical items from the brand, including tote bags and silk scarves. 

Me and my mates at a Korean BBQ buffet (2019, colourised) 

It was a fun exhibit worth visiting and I felt happy walking out of Hermes, evidently influenced by the adorable creations at petit h. I wasn’t even whining that I was at Orchard Road again. Although there was minimal context provided at the exhibit, petit h was certainly something that Hermes aficionados and fashion enthusiasts would solely know about. 

Woi Hermes, ini kambing atau apa sial

petit h gave me the opportunity to feel the leather and silk products sold and I was awed by the quality of Hermes materials. I also appreciate the concept of sustainability behind the collection which was birthed ten years ago which Hermes family member Pascale Mussard started as a creative method to give new life to perfectly usable materials that were discarded from leftovers. It was a plain idea but the ingenuity of artisans at the Hermes workshop transformed these scraps into objects of art. 

While fashion is taking an approach to sustainability, we as end users ultimately bear the larger responsibility in being environmentally conscious with our purchasing behaviour and lifestyle attitude. Bearing that in mind, I take a bow as this year draws to a close. Till 2020, folks.

#event #hermes #petit h