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Wiederhoeft Spring 2024 was easily one of the most exciting shows of New York Fashion Week. As lovers of the brand knows, Wiederhoeft specializes in kitschy fashion, with huge emphasis on dramatic bridal fashion. The show included pieces with their iconic appliques and beadwork, such as the oversized beaded bow on white gown, or my personal favorite, the intricately beaded white skirt with matching gloves.

The brand is also adding a wholesale fashion line, which means that we also got to see more simple designs such as this silk gown and tailored suits with strong lines.

The line also included some simple shirts, one of which was the "security tank," which has already become the most wanted piece from the collection.

My favorite look from the show is definitely this graffiti-looking jacket and pant set, paired with the crystal underbust corset top.

The blend of commercial pieces with Wiederhoeft's usual quirky pieces is the brand's way of showing that they have a look for everyone.

Notable guest at the show was Julia Fox, dressed in a classic Wiederhoeft micro-mini corset bridal dress, styled with an extremely dramatic veil (which I absolutely love) and a mini purse embroidered with "till death do us part." I definitely love how daring the veil is, especially paired with extreme platforms!

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[fst-critique]

Tibi Spring 2023 Ready to Wear

Since last year, those even mildly interested in the fashion scene have had their inboxes and social media feeds flooded with the news that “Y2K” is “back” in fashion. Maybe it started with Nicola Brognano’s praised revival of Bluemarine, or it could have been influenced by Miu Miu’s now iconic mini skirt that was as present at fashion weeks as is Anna Wintour. Either way, there is certainly a widely held belief that 2000s-core, if you will, is back in fashion. Though not widely considered as an important part of the Y2K trend cycle, there is one woman and brand whose attachment to the decade is perhaps just as if not more important than any DIY crop top and bedazzled jeans. Amy Smilovic and her New York-based line Tibi began on the cusp of the new millennium and their comeback to fashion in recent years is just as strong- if not stronger- than Y2K's sudden resurgence. For Spring 2023, Smilovic relied on looseness to relay her seasonal message. A co-ed collection that marks the brand’s 25th-year anniversary, Tibi’s fluid relaxed outing was a reminder that dressing with comfort in mind need not replace class and creativity.

For Amy, playing it safe never quite felt comfortable. After a rather tumultuous start- the former ex-pat founded her label attempting to sell dresses to locals in China back in the late-1990s- the independent brand found its groove in the United States where their crafty floral dresses sold like proverbial hotcakes. However, in 2010, Tibi began a change of aesthetic that has continued to drastically influence the current state and look of what may be called the “New Tibi”. What was dainty and safe was cast aside for more of a modern look that included risk-taking and challenging what defines contemporary dress. After the decision was made to abandon the tired past, business boomed. By 2015- just five years after the turnaround efforts began- Amy and her team reported a 103% increase in sales. The strong momentum continued up until the COVID-19 pandemic. 2019 saw record sales of $59 million, though when COVID arrived in March of 2020, business began to struggle. Layoffs were imminent, wholesale account revenues dropped by 50%, and uncertainty flooded the once seemingly resilient label that survived the 2000s “.com” crash, the 9/11 tragedy, and the crippling 2008 financial crisis. Through nimbleness and courage, Tibi bounced back. Today, while not much is known about the financial state of the company, Amy Smilovic appears happy than ever. In speaking with Vogue on the inspiration for this seasons showing, the founder appears in a jubilant and inclusive mood stating, “We wanted to acknowledge that style and beauty make us feel really great. When you’re just trying to enjoy life, surrounding yourself with that is a good thing,” she continued “Life is life. It’s all there is, and you can make it great and enjoy it or not.” 25 years in business is certainly an accomplishment, though, perhaps what is more noteworthy is the resilience of the founder whose drive and leadership helped to navigate it against uncertainty and the unknown.

To start the Spring collection, a pair of baggy white-wash jeans and a transparent tank combination set the mood for the relaxed ensemble. Always effortless and cool, the Tibi woman’s greatest trait is her confidence. Lose fit was the choice word for the season. Jeans never sat too high or too tight, and jackets always incorporated a generous shoulder and sleeve. XL blouses and hoodies too echoed the call for comfort amidst “Back to the Office” policies and accompanying strict wardrobes many corporate employees are now being faced with once again. Long-sleeve jersey dresses, graphic crew-neck tee, and cropped sweaters were all stylish reminders that Amy Smilovic always designs with a real-world woman in mind. New experimental style’s saw a deconstructed trouser transformed into a draped overall, a four-buttoned polo with shoulder pads strong enough to support the elephant’s that crossed the Brooklyn Bridge, and a trouser/skirt hybrid that allows wearers to play with its duality via a neatly hidden pallete of buttons that runs along the inseam. Even with the clear Margiela references, Tibi’s consistent newness is one of the brand’s clear identifiers and assists in providing shoppers with a fresh look each passing season. Admittedly, the menswear portion of the show felt weak in contrast to the strength of its womenswear. While a common thread was apparent with the use of his and her jeans, matching graphic tees, and similar cuts of the blazers, where the Tibi woman maintains a unique finesse, her male counterpart appears to fade into her shadow. Pooling jeans, a graphic tee here and there, and slouchy suits made up the majority of what was offered on the menswear front. Look 39 was promising. A final tailored suit in a crisp burnt orange evidenced that Mrs. Smilovic’s talent for tailoring can extend to menswear if she so chooses to further explore it.

Happy 25th Tibi and congratulations on a major milestone Amy Smilovic. To mark such an event, the leading designer took to show her audience not a flashback of past collections or best-selling styles, but instead, to maintain her updated modern identity. Loose and agile- much like the Tibi label itself- were the season's descriptors. If these past 25 years were anything to judge by, it is safe to assume that the label’s future is in good hands. Here is to 25 more years of excitement, innovation, and craftsmanship.

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