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Menswear Glossary

This is a glossary of menswear terminology.

baby - stuffed cloth pad on which the tailor works his cloth

back body - the back panel of a shirt

balance - bespoke term used to refer to the length at the front and back of a jacket, a well made jacket should be parallel and harmonize with the wearer's posture and figure

banger - piece of wood with handle used to draw out steam and smooth cloth during ironing; possibly the same as a block

baste - garment roughly assembled for the first stage of fitting

hand basting - process by which fabric is attached to the interlining with temporary stitches 

basting - tacking with long stitches to hold garments parts together 

bemberg - trade name for cupramonium rayon developed by J. P. Bemberg; it has the hand of silk and is similar to viscose

bespoke - manner of making a product, signifies it is often made by hand and fitted to an individual customer and allows for customization. 

blazer - casual jacket made of woolen cloth; can be single or double breasted, originally navy in colour it can now be brightly coloured or striped

block - heavy, dense block of wood used in pressing to set or seal the steam; may also refer to a base pattern used to develop other patterns; also known as: sloper or master pattern

break - the horizontal fold or bend above the cuff of the leg, which is created when the fabric of the leg is longer than the wearer's leg.

Full break - usually 2 inches or more of extra fabric that folds at the hem

Half break - 1-2 inches of fabric gathered at the bottom of the trouser

Quarter break - 1/2 - 1 inch of extra pant length 

No break - the trouser grazes the shoes with no excess fabric at the hem

board - a tailor's workbench 

body canvas - pure wool (and sometimes linen) canvas used in the structure inside a jacket, waistcoat, or overcoat to give substance and assist in shaping

bottom - the hem circumference 

button gimp - used when making buttonholes for suits 

button twist - yarn used to make buttonholes

cable knit - a pattern found in men's jumpers and knitted accessories in which cables appear to twist around one another; popular in fall/winter seasons.

canvas - a cloth usually made from cotton, flax, hemp, or jute and used for providing strength or firmness   

full canvas - in jacket construction it is the interlining of wool and horsehair canvas between the inner lining and outer fabric; it runs the entire length of the jacket and adds structures and padding at the chest

half canvas - the canvas covers the chest and continues to the rib cage

cardigan - sweater with front fastening (e.g. buttons, ties, or zips)

cavalry twill - a firm warp faced twill, originally used for heavy weight fabrics such as raincoats

chalk stripe - vertical stripes on a suit which look like a tailor's chalk; lines are often subtle and hazy.

chambray - a plain weave lightweight cotton fabric primarily used for shirts

Chino - twill fabric cloth usually made of cotton or cotton blend; commonly used for trousers (and referred to as chinos or khakis).

collar - unlike lapels or revers, shirt collars are constructed from separate fabric.

points (of a collar) - the corners of a collar; can be point, round, 

spread (of a collar)  - refers to the distance between two points of a shirt collar.

stand (of a collar) - the band, often at the widest part, that supports the collar. 

ascot collar - a very tall standing collar with the points turned toward the chin, to be worn with an ascot tie; also known as: stock collar

Albany collar - a standard turndown cutaway collar worn predominantly in the early 20th century

band collar - small standing band, usually buttoned, in the style worn with detachable collars; also known as: grandad collar

Barrymore collar - a turnover shirt collar with long points, as worn by actor John Barrymore and can accompany wide four-in-hand neckties on dress shirts; also known as: tapered collar

button-down collar - the points of a shirt's collar are fastened with small buttons; often considered a casual shirt and therefore technically should not be worn with a suit

convertible collar - designed to be worn with the neck button either fastened or unfastened 

detachable collar - made as a separate accessory to be worn with a banded collared shirt; also known as: false-collar

double round collar - a turn down collar with rounded tips.

imperial collar - created by Charvet for Edward VII; also known as: poke collar

Johnny collar - an open, short V-neck and a flat, open knit collar 

Lacoste collar - an un-starched, flat, protruding collar invented by Rene Lacoste.

Long point collar - with long pointy edges, usually worn with a suit and tie; considered a conservative collar; also known as: straight point collar, forward point collar, narrows point collar

mandarin collar - small standing collar, open at the front based on the traditional Manchu or Mongol-influenced Asian garments; also known as: cadet collar, Chinese collar

mock collar - knitted collar similar to a turtleneck without the turnover; mockneck

Nehru collar - small standing collar, meeting at the front, based on traditional Indian garments.

Peter Pan collar - flat, round-cornered collar, named for the costume worn by the character Peter Pan

poet collar - soft shirt collar, often with long points

Popped collar - style of wearing a collar unfolded and high against the neck; popular in the 1980s and early 2000s

rolled collar - any collar that is softly rolled where it folds down from the neck at the stand, as opposed to a collar with a pressed crease at the fold.

round collar - any collar with rounded points; also known as club collar or penny collar

shawl collar - a round collar for a V-neckline that is extended to form lapels, often sued on cardigan sweaters or dinner jackets

spread collar - made with a wide spread between the points, which can accommodate a bulky necktie; often the spread is between 3 and 6 inches; also known as: cut away collar

straight collar - a generic collar, measuring 2 to 3 inches between the points; when the collar is tabbed or requires a barbell, the points often measure as a straight collar

tab collar - shirt collar with a small tab that fastens the points together underneath the knot of the necktie

Windsor collar - a dress shirt collar that is slightly stiff, wit a wide spread to accommodate a Windsor knot tie; also known as: cut away collar

wing collar - a small standing collar with the points pressed to stick out horizontally, resembling wings; worn with men's evening dress (black tie and white tie); also known as wingtip collar

zero collar - neckline of shirt without band and collar 

corduroy - a cotton fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie parallel to each other, forming a distinct cord pattern that runs either vertically or horizontally. 

wale - the width of the cord; the lower the count (e.g. 5 or 6-wale) has thicker individual cords and typically used for upholstery

needlecord - high wale corduroy (16+); often used for clothing; has a softer, more velvety appearance

crew neck - a round, no collar neckline; close-fitting, hemmed neckline, which sits symmetrically at the base of the neck

cuff - a turned up hem, as found at the bottom of the leg of the trousers or at the end of a  shirtsleeve; can be a separate piece of material; also known as: permanent turn ups (P.T.U.)

barrel cuff - rectangular piece of fabric with square corners closed with a button 

convertible cuff - can be worn either buttoned (like a barrel cuff) or with cufflinks

French cuff - style of cuff on a dress or formal shirt, which is folded back and then closed with cufflinks; also known as double cuff; can also have a rounded corner at the back edge nearest the wrist (known as a rounded French cuff)

mitered cuff - features edges that are mitered or cut at an angle

one button - cuff with one button closure; normally found on business and long sleeve casual shirts 

round(ed) cuff - barrel cuff with rounded instead of square edges 

two button - cuff with two button closure 

cummerbund - a component of black tie dress; a broad waist sash, pleated waistband worn with single-breasted dinner jackets.

dart - folds in the suit fabric which are sewn into the jacket, shirt, or trousers to control and manipulate its shape and fit; a common technique used for shaping garments

darning - a technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread; also refers to any of several needlework techniques that use darning stitches   

denim - a rugged cotton twill; often used for pants; also known as: jeans or raw denim

dinner jacket/suit - defined by the satin facings on the lapels mirrored on the outer seam of the dinner suit trousers; closely associated with black-tie attire

dolly - fabric covered wooden structure used in tailoring as base for pressing

donegal - an Irish tweed hallmarked by brightly colored slubs 

double-breasted - a suit or blazer jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons; often the first column is ornamental and the second is functional; the fastening method is acknowledged using a number-on-number terminology with the first number being the total number of front buttons and the second number is the number of fastening buttons below the lapels (e.g. 6-on-1 or 6-on-2); always have peak or shawl lapels

jiggers - the hidden buttons on a double-breasted jacket 

double twist - intertwining 2 years, which doubles its density; also known as two-ply

draft - sketch or measure plan of a garment 

drape - the way a fabric hangs in folds

dress - on the pattern it is an allowance for extras room in the crotch for male genitalia 

drop crotch - an exaggerated low rise applied to pants (often denim)

duffle coat - a hooded, knee-length coat made from duffle; a coarse, thick woolen material; often featuring four front wooden or horn toggle fastening (which are known as walrus teeth)

face - the front of a piece of fabric having a distinct front and back; also known as: right side

Fair Isle - intricate, highly colored knits, often stitched by hand; seen on jumpers, cardigans, and accessories 

fusing - use of chemicals and heat to weld the interlinings to the outer fabric of a garment, as distinct from the superior method of stitching used by bespoke tailors

gabardine - a woven twill fabric, originally made from wool

gauntlet - located above the cuffs, they create openings at the sleeve ends for ease of wear. 

Gingham check - plain-woven fabric featuring alternating checks, typically white and colored. 

goose iron - hand iron hearted on a naked flame

gorge - the point where the collar is attached to the lapel forming the notch

grain - the lengthwise and crosswise grain of fabric refer to the directions parallel to the warp and weft, respectively

grenadine - a type of Italian silk weave constructed on jacquard looms and characterized by an open weave

gusset - in shirting: an additional piece of cloth joining the font and back panels at the bottom hem of the shirt to provide reinforcement

haircloth - cloth made from horsehair; used as an inner material to give shape the chest of jackets, waistcoats, and overcoats

hand - a person's estimation when feeling fabrics between rings and thumb; the sum total of sensations expressed when a textile fabric is handled by touching; also known as: fabric hand or handle

hem - the edge of cloth; the act of securing a cut edge by enclosing in cloth to prevent unraveling 

herringbone - a chevron pattern often two-tone and found in a wool twill fabric

hopsack - form of weaving often lightweight fabric into a basketweave texture

Houndstooth - distinctive broken checks (often black and white) resembling a dog's incisor

inlay - extra piece of fabric in a bespoke garment's seams to allow for future alteration

interfacing - a textile used on the unseen (or wrong) side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid; can be used to stiffen or add body to a fabric (e.g. shirt collars); also known as interlinings 

knee - the measurement of the desired trouser size at the knee 

lapel - describes the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat; the cloth is an extension of the collar and folds back against the breast and cut to create a step (notch), peak, or shawl finish.

notch lapel - distinguishable by a triangle cut where it meets the collar, often worn on two button jackets; least formal lapel 

peak lapel - features upwards points towards the shoulder to emphasize a V silhouette; elongates the frame; creates an aggressive, yet rakish look

shawl lapel - runs continuously from the back of the neck down to the buttons on the front of the torso without breaks or points 

lining - an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material inserted into clothing or other items; provide a neat inside finish and conceal interfacing, padding, raw edges of seams, and other construction details

linen - a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant; stronger and sturdier than cotton, but does not hold dye as well

loom - machine used to produce cloth by weaving 

luster - the intensity with which light shines on a piece of fiber

Macintosh - a form of waterproof raincoat made of rubberized fabric. Named after its inventor Charles Macintosh; also known as: Mac or Mackintosh.

made-to-measure - garment made from pre-existing stock pattern that is altered (usually by machine) to fit the customer's measurements

Melton - felt like cloth used to complete the under collar on a jacket or coat

merino wool - fine, silky, and soft; it is the finest grade of commercial sheep wool available 

mohair - lustrous and durable fiber produced by angora goats 

morning dress - a type of formal daytime ensemble; typically found at weddings (morning grey) and races; a dress code

nap - the raised surfaces found projecting from a fabric; produced intentionally (by brushing) or naturally (during weaving); flannel and saxony are often napped to provide extra warmth and comfort

necktie - a decorative long piece of cloth worn around the neck and knotted at the throat. Similar to an ascot, bow tie, zipper tie, cravat, knit tie, and clip-on tie

off-the-rack - finished clothing item sold in standard sizes

optima - fabric, usually cotton, used in tailoring for pocketing, banding, and inside cuffs; sometimes used in making of chest on jacket together with haircloth and body canvas

oxford - in textiles: cloth combining dyed and un-dyed yarns; they have durable yet soft hand; often used for weekend or button cuff shirts with a button down collar and is popular with American markets

padding - a thin cushioned material added to clothes to soften impacts on certain zones of the body or improve a physical feature; also known as: batting 

pattern: template used for cutting out pieces of fabric for a garment

pick stitching - visible stitching along the lapels it is an indication of craftsmanship and tailoring 

pinstripe - narrow, crisp lines running parallel; evenly woven into fabric and often spaced one half to one inch apart

pique - a type of cotton used on dress shirts and waistcoats; featuring a double twill, it is more dense than a single twill and has a distinct woven pattern similar to that of a honeycomb; also known as Marcella 

placket - an opening in the upper part of trousers or at the neck or sleeve of a garments; allow garments to be put on and removed more easily 

pleat - a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place to allow extra room for movement

accordion pleat - a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving; also known as: knife pleat

box pleat - back-to-back knife pleases; can also be formed to create stacked or double-box pleats

cartridge pleat - used to gather large amounts of fabrics into a small waistband or arms he without adding bulk to the seam

fluted pleat - small, rounded, or pressed pleats used as trimmings

kick pleat - short pleats leading upwards from the bottom hem of a garment such as a coat, usually at the back; allow the garment to drape straight down when stationary while also allowing freedom of movement.

organ pleat - parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of an organ

rolled pleat - create tubular pleats which run the length of the fabric from top to bottom; also known as: stacked pleat 

pocket - a bag or envelope like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in an article of clothing

barchetta - an Italian style of pocket that curves upward, like a boat, rather than straight across 

beer pocket - small pocket within a jacket or vest sized specifically for carrying a bottle of beer

besom pocket - cut into a garment instead of being sewn on; often have reinforced piping along the slit of the pocket appearing as an extra piece of fabric or stitching; clarification: a type of welt and can also be corded; also known as slip pockets

camp pocket - sewn to the outside of the garment and usually squared off and characterized by seaming

flap pocket - a pocket of any construction having a piece of fabric sewn above the pocket opening for moderate protection

patch pocket - made of a separate piece of cloth sewn on to the outside of a garment

ticket pocket - a narrow pocket positioned above a flap pocket

watch pocket - small pocket designed to hold a pocket watch; sometimes found in men's trousers, waistcoats, and jeans 

welt pocket - a set-in pocket that is finished and strengthened with piping along its length

pocket square - a small piece of textile work in the jacket pocket

pocketing - fabric used to make pockets for suits and coats

poplin - consists of a fine warp yarn and thick filling; popular choice for shirts

puckering - tendency of cloth to gather in runs, often apparent on the lapel and trouser spasms and most common in fused apparel

rayon - textile fiber or fabric made from regenerate cellulose 

raw denim - unwashed, untreated denim after the dyeing process

raw edge - the unfinished edge of a piece of fabric; produces an unstructured look

rise - the distance from the crotch to the top of the waistband on trousers and denim; the difference between the inseam and outseam; can be a measurement or a proportional calculation; common options: high, medium, and low rise

Royal oxford - similar construction to oxford, however it si comprised of finer yarns contributing to a more sophisticated aesthetic

S number - for wool: indicates the fineness of the wool fiber; measured in micrometers; the higher the number the finer the wool

satin - silk fabric with glossy surface on one side

Savile Row - street in the West End of London that is regarded as the home of bespoke tailoring

scye - the armhole 

sea island cotton - its weave construction consists of a high thread count; considered one of the best shirting fabrics; also known as: south sea island cotton

seam - a line where tow pieces of fabric are held together by thread 

forearm seam - runs down the front of the arm; joins with the hindarm seam; allows for adjustment of the sleeve

hindarm seam - runs down the back of the arm; joins with the forearm seam

inseam - leg measurement 

sideseam - also known as the outseam

seat - the hip measurement given

seersucker - a mid to lightweight fabric, often striped, used to make clothes for spring and summer wear; the puckered or crinkled effect is created by releasing the tensions at intervals during weaving, which holds the cloth away from the body allowing it to cool

sharkskin - a two-tone woven worsted fabric often used for suiting; smooth hand with a soft texture 

shirting - fabric from which shirts are made; can include cotton, twill, flannel, voile, silk, chambray, and linen

silk - fabric spun from silk thread, which in turn comes from silk worms

silhouette - the overall look of the suit; describes the shape and fit of the jacket by the impression it gives in its outline 

single-breasted - characterized by a narrow overlap fastened with a single row of buttons; always left over right; the narrow line features one to four buttons

slanted pockets  - decorative buttons that do not work; also known as hacking in England 

skirt - the area of material which makes up the bottom edge of the jacket and overlaps the trouser

sleeve pitch - angle at which the sleeve is pitched to the sleeve head; in a bespoke suit the sleeve is pitched to match the angle at which the arm hangs naturally from the shoulder

slub - knots or knobbles on a textile that appears thicker and raised

spalla camicia - Italian shoulder with no padding 

spinning - process of making fibers into yarns

stitch - a single turn or loop of the thread or yarn in sewing, knitting, and embroidery

suit - a set of garments made from the same cloth and usually consisting of at least a jacket and trousers

tactile property - how a garment fits

taper - to become more narrow (as in a trouser leg that is more narrow at the ankle than the knee)

third hand - a sewing clamp that holds the fabric to be sewn

thread - a fine type of yarn

tie pin - an ornamental pin designed to hold the position of the necktie or cravat

texture - the feel, appearance, or consistency of a surface or substance

tuxedo - American term for a single or double-breasted jacket for formal or semi formal evening occasions.

trimmings - the raw materials that in addition to cloth make up the suit

tweed - rough twilled woolen eaves and clothes used for suits, jackets, and overcoats originally produced in Scotland and also associated with Ireland.

twill - such fabrics have a distinct diagonal surface pattern and weave enabling reinforced durability 

vent - a cut/slit in the bottom (tail) of a coat, allowing the material to move more easily when being worn; examples: center vent,  side/double vent, and ventless

vicuña - fiber sourced from the animal of the same name; the most expensive fiber in the world, it is lighter, softer, warmer, and finer than any other wool

voile - thin semi transparent cotton, woolen, or silken material in a twisted yarn construction used for making shirts

waist - the waist measurement given 

warp - the (vertical) threads of a loom over and under which other threads (weft) are passed to make the cloth 

weave - formation of fabric by interlacing long threads passing in one direction with others at a right angle to form them

weft - the crosswise (horizontal) threads on a loom that are passed over and under the warp threads to make cloth 

white tie - the most formal men's dress code; comprised of a single-breasted tailcoat, black trousers (both with two silk grosgrain or satin facings running parallel), a white pique waistcoat, white stiff-front shirt, white bow tie, black patent shoes, and silk socks

working cuffs - functional buttonholes on a suit; also known as surgeon’s cuffs 

worsted - lightweight cloth made of long staple combed woolen yarn, originally named after the village of Worsted near Norwich

yarn - length of fibers and/or filaments with or without twist

yarn count - denotes the size/weight of yarn; measured in terms of denier or tex

yoke - the upper back panel of the shirt covering the shoulders

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