#most of my wardrobe is thrifted for affordability and sustainability reasons

[impishglee]

i do not have enough money to get into slow fashion what i need to do is learn how to tailor

#most of my wardrobe is thrifted for affordability and sustainability reasons

[radkindoffeminist]

One of the reasons why I can never fully get behind the sustainable fashion/anti-fast fashion movement is because the movement, on the whole, has a massive classism and fatphobia issue which result in it missing the big problems in unsustainable fashion and blaming the wrong people.

And you’re free to take what I’m saying as being a slightly biased perspective since I’ve brought a lot of clothes from primark and Shien and other places which are known for being unsustainable, but hear me out.

For me, the biggest problems in unsustainable clothing (aside from being unsustainable and the abuse of workers to make them) are the following: constant style changes and the social pressure to keep up with the new trends leading to people having full wardrobe changes on a yearly basis if not more often; inability or unwillingness to fix the clothes that we currently have; and generalised overconsumption from multiple other reasons (needing something for every occasion, needing something new for special occasions, having monthly subscriptions for workout leggings, etc).

But the way in which many of these people talk about sustainable clothing makes it seem like every single person who buys clothing from these unsustainable shops is a a big part of the problem and that they just all need to stop. But that ignores why so many people are buying these clothes in the first place: they’re the only places people with limited disposable incomes can afford and very few places offer plus size clothing. I buy from Shein because very few other places offer clothing up to a size 22-24UK which is what I need and most don’t have anything close to the range Shein has and it can’t be beat on price which is important for a recent graduate with a limited income. I’m also very limited on where I can buy bras because so few places go up to a G-cup (there’s even one shop which only does like DD+ bras and I can’t buy from there because they don’t go up to my band size.)

And then their response is ‘well, just thrift everything’. Even when I was a size 12-14, I struggled to find clothes in charity/thrift/second hand stores which where in my size and style. (And bare in mind that my style was like plain blue/black jeans with plain or patterned t-shirts so it’s not anything weird or wacky.) Like, my sister and I would often go to the 4-5 charity shops in my local high street and I only ever bought a couple of bits of clothing because there was nothing in my size and style. How much harder is it going to be now that I am significantly larger? I remember a few years back, before I gained my pandemic weight, struggling to find anything that was in a size 18-20 in charity shops, but you think everyone is going to easily be able to fill their wardrobe with good quality items from charity shops? Even though it’s now more expensive due to thrifting becoming so much more popular and these shops are filled with people Shein haul dumps? Like, I even saw one woman who did these ‘outfits you can buy from a thrift store’ videos where she put together these awesome outfits for people just on what was around this one store she was in and she was challenged to do one for plus sized people and they were so boring and almost disgusting in comparison. One outfit was a random printed t-shirt and a pair of shorts. That was literally the best plus size outfit she could put together.

Moreover, their biggest argument against people buying from these fast fashion brands is that these clothes aren’t made to last. And I do agree on some level: they aren’t the best quality clothing in the world and aren’t really made to last for years on end and there are many items which are really designed for only a use or two (shoes tend to be the worst in my opinion). But with all that being said, I’ve bought primark shirts which have lasted me for years. They may last a little longer because I do try to sew up my stuff when it breaks, but it’s certainly not the wear it once and then it disintegrates in the wash type of quality that many of these activists make it out to be. Just because they’re not designed to last for years on end doesn’t mean that people don’t make them last. And also, people tend to figure out quite quickly on what’s worth the money and what’s not. I don’t buy bras or jeans from Primark because the couple of times I did they fell apart within weeks, so I used to get New Look jeans which lasted a good couple of years. But I’ll happily buy their shirts because, aside from the odd 1 or 2 shirts, most of them have lasted for at least a couple of years before they’re beyond saving or no longer fit.

It reminds me of that story about shoes and poverty costing interest. A poor man will buy $10 shoes because that’s all he can afford and, if he’s lucky, they will last a year before they’re too broken to wear. A rich man will buy $50 shoes which will last a decade because he can easily afford to do so and spends less in the long run than the poor man. But the poor man can’t buy the $50 ones because he never has the $50 to spare, only ever $10. Why can’t people realise that this applies to clothes too?

[crigroup30]

Auto Ethnography Analysis

Turning to our personal wardrobe and consumer experiences gave direct insight into the demographic our team aimed to study. We are all between the ages of 18-30, interested in style, knowledgeable about the detrimental environmental effects of fast fashion, and our wardrobe is primarily funded by our own income. Although I claim to try and make ethical purchasing choices, I never really looked upon my own habits to find out if my intentions matched my actions. Beyond the autoethnographic research method helping us understand our demographic, studying our weekly outfits was also a way to hold ourselves accountable and reflect upon our actions when it comes to consuming clothing. The results indicated that there is still some discrepancy between wanting to shop entirely sustainably and our actual purchasing habits. Overall, the team had mostly clothing items from sustainable sources, but, 40% of our weekly wardrobes were still from fast fashion retailers.   

Our team are not the only people interested in shopping sustainably and shifting our consumer behaviour to benefit the environment. According to a recent Mintel research study, “37% of men and 44% of women said “sustainably made” is a motivating product claim that would entice them to make a purchase.” (Smith, 2021). However, shopping trends still indicate that Fast Fashion dominates the garment industry. Meaning, like our team, others favour the idea of shopping environmentally conscious but are failing to shift habits. The attitude behaviour gap framework mentioned in our background research can be applied to discrepancies between our purchasing choices and the industry's trends. Meaning values are shifting to care about the environment yet, actions are not always in line. The data indicates there are bigger barriers in the way of shopping that are entirely sustainable. 

The team members highlight their motivation to shop sustainably mostly has to do with concerns for the environment and choosing a budget-friendly option. The main reasons we would look to fast fashion companies were for necessary, everyday basics because we can get them easily and at an affordable price. Our team's data shows that most of our tops are thrifted or from a slow fashion source. However, sweaters, long sleeves and pants were the more common items that we would seek out from fast fashion companies. Contrasting the data to our experiences and values demonstrates that buying high-quality, well-fitting, suitable everyday items at a reasonable cost is harder through sustainable channels. Thrifting provides the opportunity to find one-of-a-kind items that can be reasonably priced. However, the options are limited and it can be a lot harder to find the right size or style for a basic item like a pair of jeans than one might consider. On the other hand, slow fashion channels like designers that are made-to-order or brands that sustainably source materials usually charge a premium price that is not always accessible for everyone, especially our demographic who has less disposable income. These are two common problems which limit people from shopping entirely sustainably and can provide reasoning between the disconnect between belief and purchasing decisions.  Reflecting on someone’s wardrobe entirely such as coats, shoes, under layers, thermals and not just visible items may further support the rationale that necessary items may be harder to source sustainably.

One more key takeaway from our results of studying the team's weekly outfits relates to where we choose when shopping for fast fashion items. The most common brands for fast fashion items were Aritzia, Oak + Fort and Urban Outfitters. The brands are classified as fast fashion as they overproduce the number of items available (i.e one style of top in 6 different colours) and have limited information on sustainably sourcing for all available items. However, they cater to a more luxurious, mid-market consumer compared to H&M, Shien, Fashion Nova, Zara or other various fashion brands whose labels put less emphasis on the shopping experience. In Aritzia’s marketing plan, they make sure each store appears as an upscale retail experience and the items are branded as luxury clothing, whereas, H & M's in-store experience is about getting as much product on the floor as possible. The attraction our group has to slightly more upscale stores presents two possibilities. First, as consumers, we may perceive stores like Aritzia, Oak + Fort and Urban Outfitters as providing higher standards or quality and, for that reason, we could overlook the harmful environmental practices assuming that quality could outweigh damages. Another reasoning may be as mentioned in the background research; our actions could be categorized as social consumers. There is a lot more pressure from the general public on stores like Zara and H & M addressing their adoption of fast fashion but less regarding Aritzia or Oak + Fort because the branding intentionally separates themselves from typical fast fashion experiences. As social consumers, purchasing is motivated by appearance and when we choose to buy from places that are less associated with fast fashion we come off as more environmentally conscious. Buying a level above obvious fast fashion stores makes our purchases come off as in line with values. However, when we tracked where our items were from, the team was confronted with analyzing a store's connection to fast fashion and there realized our behaviours could be classified as shopping fast fashion.  Completing the auto ethnographic study is a good way for any consumer interested in shopping more sustainably to hold themselves accountable and realize if their purchases are as sustainable as they hope

[inkofamethyst]

October 5, 2020

Ah, I really am a little product of consumerism, aren’t I?

Buying things makes me happy.  There’s really no trying to deny it.  I bought quite a few clothes secondhand this week partially as a treat to myself (why have a semesterly allowance if you don’t use at least a bit of it for frivolous purposes, you know?) and partially as a beginning to this new stage of my life.  I’m hoping that this will lead to the eventual development of a more capsule-like wardrobe.  Sure I’ll keep a sweatshirt or two, a pair of sweatpants, and maybe a couple of leggings on hand because sometimes there are days where ultra cozy sweatpants should be worn, but I’d love it if I could really commit to another Cute Campaign once Ms. Rona decides to skip town.  Except this time, “cute” will look a tad bit more earthy, vintage, and hopefully more put-together.  And possibly more handmade, depending on what fabrics I can find in the bargain bins and as old tablecloths at the thrift stores.  I’m actually kind of interested in doing fun things with sleeves, like the cute little poufy short sleeves and maybe some petal sleeves.

Anyway, I got off track.

Sure, I’m making some young adult’s day by buying their unwanted clothes, and I think I’m helping the environment in some small way by purchasing clothes that are already in circulation rather than going straight to Macy’s (but until I can figure out how to sew a nice bra, I’ll keep heading to Macy’s for my underthings), but... idk.  I’m still just buying things.  Almost needlessly filling my closet?  Except I’m hoping that I’m buying items that will suit me and make me feel good to wear (For example, I feel amazing in the new/old handmade skirt I got from Poshmark.  I’ve found a few areas that are in need of a quick stitch repairing, but it’s incredibly well-put-together!), and if I feel good in them then they’re more likely to stay in my closet longer which helps the environment out more.  Right?  I don’t know.  I don’t feel much guilt for buying these new things, but I feel like I should?  Maybe this is just me overthinking again for no good reason.  I’ve got room enough in my budget for two more items (...maybe I’ll splurge on a third), and frankly this is only the case because I’m so thrifty (read: cheap) when it comes to my books and school supplies that I can afford to spend a little bit extra on myself.  And also I’m planning to hopefully sell a few items of clothing as well which should hopefully put a bit extra back into my pocket.  You know, to eventually buy more things.

Man.  I need to finish sewing my pants.  I need to finish my sewing projects in general, argh.

Speaking of sewing projects, I wanna make a dress for my mom’s birthday!!  Sewing is such a cool hobby and I can actually make people usable gifts with it!!!  Obviously not everyone is going to get themselves a dress, but I could totally make my sister and my dad and my friends something.

Oh oh oh!  Also!  I kind of want a wax seal kit for Christmas.  Like, I already have a calligraphy set (I need to go and figure out how it works though), and I just think wax seals are so cool and I kind of want to send letters and stuff bc I’m soft like that I guess idk.

Speaking of soft, I’m wondering if my sudden shift into liking dresses and skirts and such has anything to do with my gender identity.  Like, I’m a girl for sure, but I have been told multiple times that I can look boyish, and that’s really not what I’m going for (at least, not anymore!  I think I was over that by sixth grade or so), and it’s actually something I’ve been really quite insecure about for a few years now.  I’m hyperconscious of whether my hair is particularly boyish (apparently having my hair in twists (the most sustainable hairstyle for me during busy life periods) looks quite boyish), or whether the clothes I’m wearing make me look less androgynous and more masculine (I actually kind of dig androgynous looks though, it’s just that I’d rather not be mistaken for a prepubescent boy).  And for some reason I’m quite hairy, and it’s especially embarrassing to have hairs on my neck and to have thicker sideburns because like ???  That’s not very feminine and it’s really just affected my self-esteem a ton.  And like, you’d think my uhh chest would clue people in maybe?  I don’t know.  Look, I’d really just rather not be misgendered is all.  And I’d rather not be kissing some boy (okay sidenote: kissing in general just seems really gross???  is it just me??  is it because i’ve never kissed before??  like it’s all wet and nasty and i just don’t really understand the appeal at all???) and then his hands are on my neck (in a caress, you dirty-minded freak) and then there’s little hairs there UGH it’s just very uncomfortable.  And you’d think “oh he’ll love you for you” but physical attraction is a big part of attraction as a whole!

Anyway, I don’t know what I’m worried about.  The last guy who showed confessed to having romantic interest in me turned out to be thoroughly gay, and that was five years ago, so it’s not like my dating timeline is on any sort of a rush or anything.

Oh but speaking of dating, my DnD-friend has a girlfriend now??  Don’t know who she is or what she’s like or how they met but apparently they’ve been out on a date and they’ve been talking at least since school began.

Okay okay okay I know I’m not supposed to be comparing myself to my friends anymore but I’ve been good for a long while, so humor me briefly on this one, if you’d please.  I believe I wrote in a journal entry some time ago that I thought I had a half-baked personality.  Maybe this shows and makes me undesirable less-desirable?  Like, my DnD-friend and my dancer-friend seem to be fairly self-assured (...on the outside, at least), and they seem to know what they want out of life (and I recognize that I’m leaning into the territory of what made me start this blog in the first place, but hang on).  I’m not at all interested in beginning a romantic relationship anytime soon or anything (I can barely handle my own emotions for crying out loud), but I would be interested in knowing what exactly I’m missing.  Attraction sure ain’t no science though.

All that said,

I GOT NEW CLOTHES COMIN’ IN THE MAIL WOOO!

(...hopefully, anyway.  I’m still waiting to see if my brown skirt will be mailed (I desperately hope it will be))

Today I’m thankful for my new schedule.  Today wasn’t perfect by any means, but I have goals now, and I have a rough idea of what I’m trying to get done each day.  It’s coming along, you know?  I’m getting better!

I find out what my class registration time will be in a few days.  It should be fairly early because I’m pretty high as far as credits go, and I think the toughest class to get into will be the archaeology class?  It covers a bunch of gen-eds and is likely pretty easy, so I’m a bit worried that people might hop on that.  But, I shouldn’t worry about that.  Everything will turn out just as it’s meant to.

[thewanderingswede]

A Second-Hand Year

I’m an unabashed sucker for New Year’s Resolutions. I know they’re corny and send the wrong message about needing to constantly improve (especially for women), but for me the start of the year provides a convenient time to be introspective, to set personal goals, and evaluate my habits. (When I was in fourth grade, I distinctly remember setting the goal of “drinking water” as a resolution, and now I drink no fewer than five glasses a day. I digress, but also, skeptics can kiss my hydrated ass.) As I was reflecting upon my lifestyle choices a few days before New Year’s Eve last year, I decided promptly that I wanted to reduce my environmental impact through fashion.

Moving to Sweden, I felt, had sent my consumption habits spiraling out of control. In the past, Stockholm had always been a place of major consumption for me—of food, of design, but largely of clothing. I love fashion, and Sweden is home to some of my favorite brands, with their clean cuts and their minimalist-yet-bold color schemes (read: & other stories, Weekday, COS, not to mention fast fashion giant H&M). On previous trips to Stockholm I would usually spend a day or two shopping, which was not only expensive but also not particularly sustainable.

The thing is: the fashion industry is one of the most polluting and twisted industries on the planet. Water becomes polluted and wasted due to cheap and often toxic dyes. Labor practices are nothing short of abhorrent. The cotton and plastic-based materials in a lot of clothing require a lot of energy to produce. And of course, thousands of the fast fashion pieces we see in H&M and Zara end up in landfills (or shipped to developing countries, which isn’t much better on a carbon footprint scale). Some brands get it right, but all clothing labels are looking to sell more stuff to more people, and our current rate of consumption is simply unsustainable.

I could go on, but I’ll let you read up here and here if you want to educate yourselves.

Cutting to the chase: I decided to only buy second-hand clothing in 2017. I made exceptions for: undergarments (including swimwear and socks) for hygiene reasons, and shoes, for durability/fit reasons. But everything from coats to skinny jeans would be second-hand. A large chunk of my closet has always been second-hand, whether from relatives or thrift shops, but I wasn’t sure how difficult it would be to curb my enthusiasm for new trends. (Note: I have made an effort to buy mostly second-hand jewelry, but in the name of transparency, I have made two exceptions this year.)

The short of it? It wasn’t that hard. Sure, I felt the occasional urge to buy a gorgeous pink dress from Banana Republic or a perfect mint-green velvet tank top (I’m not bitter, I swear), but generally these feelings passed pretty quickly. And once I stopped paying attention to trends, I started to focus on unique, timeless pieces from vintage shops and cheap second-hand outlets. A few of my favorites:

A red, backless, completely support-less jumpsuit + a red turtleneck tank top (both very practical).

A green linen dress from what I can only assume is the 60s.

A periwinkle cape-coat-poncho situation that is so absurd it’s completely perfect.

A Theory-brand wool blazer (and a mint-green cashmere sweater) that I would never be able to afford otherwise.

The perfect leather jacket, from the men’s section. (I know, I have a lot of coats, but hey, I live in Sweden.)

A nurse-like linen shirt that feels oh-so-Scandinavian.

An any-occasion sparkly jumpsuit that I bought for $1 (!) from a woman at a thrift market.

In short, my wardrobe has assumed a much stronger personality with the addition of these pieces that are also destined to last longer.

The one exception I considered making was for a wedding that Charlie and I were set to go to in August. I felt I “didn’t have anything to wear,” which as a rule is just never true. Both for financial reasons and out of stubbornness I decided to dig up a dress I’d worn to a formal freshman year of college, and alter it a little to be slightly more adult. While I think I’ve officially grown out of it (and I’ll probably never get out those pit stains from the dance floor), I’m glad I gave this garment at least two uses, rather than one. I’ll likely be donating this one to a second-hand place.

Now, all of this comes from a place of major privilege – I have enough money and clothing to spend sparingly at vintage places, rather than having to fill in my wardrobe at Walmart. I recognize that. But I suspect that many of my friends are in a similar position, where they don’t really need clothes but want them, all the same. To this I say: 1) Go shopping in your closet first. You have more than you think, if only you pair it with different things. 2) Go shopping at a thrift store or vintage shop first, even if you’re looking for work clothing. I’ve found some of my favorite blazers and pencil skirts at consignment stores and Goodwill.

So what comes next, now that the year is over? I plan to continue shopping this way. Realistically, I don’t need any more clothing, so I might as well make the pieces I buy come from a sustainable place. I may cave eventually, but for now this makes a lot of sense in my life. I’d encourage anyone else to do the same.

#second hand #vintage #fashion