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the-gloomth · 3 months
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Doll Funeral Shop Toronto
Our first retail space has been open 3 whole months now!!! We have had such a great response to the new shop and it’s been so inspiring meeting our online friends in real life and making new friends. I cannot thank everyone enough for their support and encouragement with this! Doll Funeral is Toronto’s hidden alternative clothing shop, tucked away inside a strange mall downtown. It’s super close…
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popculturekuma · 4 years
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A Brief Look at Lolita Fashion
There is a difference between Lolita and lolita—one referring to the Nabokov novel from 1955, and one referring to the Japanese alternative fashion. Unfortunately, those not familiar with anime, Japanese culture, or alternative fashion, are confused when people use the term “lolita” to describe the fashion because of the association with the Nabakov novel. To be clear, lolita fashion has nothing to do with the book, and with this article, I want to explore the history of lolita, the assumptions of sexuality about lolita, and feminism in this “cutesy” fashion.
Lolita fashion started gaining prominence in the Harajuku district of Japan in the 1980s. Referred to as Elegant Gothic Lolita, or EGL, the style drew on inspiration from historical clothing from the Victorian and French Rococo, the lavish dresses and oh, the frills! Despite the idea of lolita being all pink, there are actually several substyles within lolita—including classic, sweet, and gothic. Each substyle has their own general color schemes and accessories, but they all follow the same respective silhouettes and guidelines.
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(Diagram from PenguinLolita)
An outfit is called a coordinate, and there are multiple pieces that make up a single coordinate. PenguinLolita uses a great diagram to showcase the anatomy of a coord (shorthand for coordinate). A coordinate includes either a one piece dress (OP), a jumperskirt (JSK) with a blouse, or a skirt with a blouse, a petticoat beneath the dress to help achieve an A-line shape, bloomers beneath the petti, usually worn to preserve modesty in case any curious outsiders try to pull the skirts up, socks or tights, shoes (typically a tea party shoe or Mary Jane style), and a head piece. The idea of the head piece is to balance out the volume and shape of the coordinate. Coordinate-inspired accessories are also encouraged, and Over the Top (OTT) coordinates are all the rage. Accessories can include, but are not limited to, rings, bracelets, wrist cuffs, necklaces, and bows. Parasols and purses are often seen to round out the look!
So where does the EGL community and the Nabokov book overlap? Well, they don’t. However, because the fashion shares a name with the Nabokov novel, it is easy for outsiders of the community to perceive EGL as something sexual. Coined as a “lolita complex,” or “lolicon,” this is the idea of older men, typically middle age, being attracted to younger girls, in line with the Nabokov novel. The EGL community is a place for women of all ages to honor this fashion and its roots as a fashion inspired by French Rococo styles. As PenguinLolita puts it, “The lolita subculture emphasises modesty and youthfulness, as well as drawing from the Japanese kawaii aesthetic, and isn't considered overtly sexual by its followers.” 
It is, unfortunately, a common occurrence for lolitas to come across those who have assumptions and perceptions of what lolita is. Because of its youthfulness and cute fashion, members of the EGL community are often assumed to be dressing up to play out some sort of sexual fantasy. This really could not be further from the truth. Some lolitas have been attracted to the fashion because of its lack of sexualization and emphasis on expressing oneself. Lolita fashion inherently subverts the  social expectation of how women should dress. I’m not saying it’s not impossible for people to be attracted to the fashion and try to use pieces that are “lolita” inspired to fulfil some sexual desire, but that would not be lolita—plain and simple.
Coordinates can be incredibly expensive, especially when considering that pieces are not mass produced, thus emphasizing paying for the unique print, manufacturing of the garment, waiting for the garment to be made, and shipping. Buying pieces from brands such as Angelic Pretty and Baby, The Stars Shine Bright can reach up to $1,000+ USD. Considering everything that goes into a basic coordinate, this can be an easy deterrent for those who are not devoted to the fashion, or for those looking at it in a way that is purely sexual, so it is relatively easy to spot someone who is claiming to be part of the EGL community for all the wrong reasons. Additionally, the EGL community tends to use the terms lolita (lowercase ‘L’), EGL, and “lolita fashion” when discussing the fashion, and they avoid using the words Lolita (uppercase ‘L’), and loli.
What is the appeal to lolita fashion, and is it for everyone? As discussed before, the fashion is inherently nonsexual, and is something people of all ages can enjoy and wear. It is not just for women, though. The idea of lolita is to embrace non-traditional femininity, something that is incredibly important when masculinity is favored so prominently throughout the world. It defies this idea that women need to dress to attract work, love, and have kids. Lolita embraces cuteness and fun, and you can embrace everything that makes you YOU, all while engaging with the EGL fashion, whether you are Black, White, or part of the LGBTQIA+ community. Lolita is about honoring femininity and oneself, and there is a substyle for everyone. Recently, ouji has been becoming more popular to accompany  lolita fashion. The term “ouji” refers to a “prince-like” style. If lolita is a “princess-like” style, then ouji is its counterpart. Frills galore, but add pants; and this is the perfect fashion for individuals who love and appreciate the fashion, but do not feel comfortable in dresses or skirts (for a variety of reasons).
More than ever, lolita fashion is accessible to those not living in Japan, or individuals who do not fit in the “one size” (one size fits small) many name brand lolita companies use. Bodyline offers lolita pieces at a low price, and it is easy to buy directly from their Japanese site if you live out of the country. Additionally, Taobao lolita brands are becoming increasingly popular, and consumers outside of China and Japan can use shopping services for both Taobao brands and Japanese lolita brands. There are U.S. stores and websites for Angelic Pretty and Baby, The Stars Shine Bright, so North American lolitas can buy directly from there in English. Lolita has become so much more than an alternative fashion seen on the streets of Harajuku, Kei-Con, a convention for kawaii alternative fashion enthusiasts, popping up in Toronto, Canada, and Paradiso, a J-fashion convention based in the Midwest. With tea parties held at the Angelic Pretty stores around the world, the alternative fashion is becoming increasingly visible outside of Japan and accepted through various local EGL communities.
What about plus size lolitas? Many Taobao brands offer custom sizing on select pieces to help lolitas that don’t fit in the small sizing “standard.” Dollbe on Etsy offers JSKs and OPs up to 5XL, and their sizing is so inclusive. Dollbe is also  a Black-owned lolita company! Another size inclusive shop is Lady Sloth, a lolita brand from Poland. They offer custom sizing, as well, and their pieces range from sweet lolita to gothic lolita with classic disbursed between.
The EGL community is wonderfully inclusive and accepting. It embraces differences in those who participate in the fashion. The EGL community is, at its core, alternative fashion, which is accepting of all individuals who want to embrace femininity. Aside from the beautiful coordinates, lolita is about being yourself, truly. It can be an amazing and breathtaking experience to put on your first full coordinate. If you’re interested in lolita fashion, don’t be afraid to reach out to your local lolita community. Additionally, there are many lovely lolitas on Youtube that can aid you in your quest to build the lolita wardrobe of your dreams.
For links to my sources and additionally readings can be found here: Google Doc
A special thank you to the lovely lolitas from my own community in Michigan for helping me with this piece! 
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With the ever-growing popularity of the internet, access to different clothing is easier than ever for the average consumer. One area that continues to spread globally, previously rarely seen in the West, is Asian fashion. The vibrant and varied colours and styles of Asia have developed a keen international market, particularly those fashions coming Men suit  from Korea and Japan.
Japan and Korea lead the way in spreading Asian fashion to the rest of the world because of the rapid adoption of cutting edge technology in these countries. Always eager to adopt modern technology, Japanese and Korean markets similarly aim to enjoy the most modern fashion trends. Japanese and Korean clothing is some of the most forward-thinking in the world.
Origins of Asian Fashion
The forward-thinking styles come from a history of eager adaptation to modernity in these countries, and the unique styles of modern Asian fashion actually have their roots in 19th Century attitudes. After Japan was first opened to the West, Japanese fashion combined the trends and styles of foreign labels and markets with traditional culture and trends, an attitude which continues today. Often this clothing is homemade with customisation added by the wearer. These highly adaptable styles of clothing are often referred to as Japanese Street Fashion, and are now chronicled leather jackets  by a number of websites.
Influence of Japanese Fashion
Much of the Asian fashion you will find on such websites stems from Japan, where many different styles of clothing exist. Street fashion includes such styles as Lolita (looking like a young girl), Gyaru (girly-glam) and Bosozoku (inspired by manga and anime). Recent trends have leant towards doll-like and fantasy elements being introduced, for instance dolly kei and fairy kei fashions, whilst Japanese hip-hop is also increasingly influential.
The immediate influence of these various Japanese street fashion styles is felt in China, Korea, Hong Kong and Taiwan. The West Coast of the United States is also receptive to the trends. As a result, these surrounding countries share many similar styles and trends, though in the nature of street fashion they are suitably adaptive. In Hong Kong, for instance, where business is paramount, styles tend to be more conservative.
In addition to these more locally influenced sherwani  countries, Asian fashion is increasingly popular on the global market. Famed Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo, founder of brand Comme des Garcons, has played a large role in the fashion industry since the 80s, and worked with the likes of Louis Vuitton and high-street retailers H&M. In addition, easy access to Asian media, such as films and anime, has made Asian fashion more popular in Western society.
What makes Asian fashion so popular is the sheer originality of the designs. Consumers are encouraged to customise their own clothing, and as a result outfits can look incredibly diverse. Asian clothing has potential for a lot of personality, with each sub-category relating to certain principles. These fashions instantly make a wearer part of an identifiable movement. For instance, cult kei, another modern style, uses a range of distinctive religious iconography.
Asian Clothing Online
Another reason Asian fashion is so popular is cool leather jackets  that online markets makes it easy to acquire for consumers all over the world. Bidding sites such as eBay are heavily populated by international sellers giving access to new trends and original designs. A quick online search for Asian fashion, Korean Fashion, Japanese fashion will bring you directly to trending markets. By shopping for these fashions online, you can be sure to be at the forefront of emerging styles, at affordable prices. User reviews are abundant to ensure that you buy quality products, so even when ordering from halfway around world you can be sure of a good deal.
You can also gain access to ever-evolving original designs by visiting custom online markets where users from all over the world design their own clothing to sell. Beyond purchasing clothing, the internet allows users to critique designs, comment on each others' clothing and increasingly share and combine their fashionsFashion week is a week-long event that is held to commemorate the fashion industry and the cogs that keep the wheel moving. Fashion designers, brands and houses display the latest and best of their collection via runway shows. Buyers and the media are prominently present during this activity and this helps the designers to showcase and sell their work. Fashion week is an important event in the lives of the fashionable since it is here which determines the trends that are in Vogue and those which are passé. The most popular and well-known fashion weeks are held in the biker leather jackets  four major fashion capitals in the world namely New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Fashion has stormed the globe in a big way and some other countries which also host other important fashion weeks in the world are; Madrid, Australia, Rome, Dubai, Hong Kong, Buenos Aires, Singapore, Toronto, Jakarta, India, Berlin, Barcelona, Seoul, Tokyo, Sao Paulo, Los Angeles and Dallas.
Fashion week is a seven day long entertainment cum business event where people from all walks of life fraternize with those from the fashion industry. This event is bi-annual in nature and is held in the major fashion capitals in the world like London, New York, Paris and Milan. Fashion weeks are held several months prior to commencement of the fashion season so that it allows the buyers and press a better chance to preview the trends and designs for that season. January to April hosts fashion shows to showcase the autumn and winter collections. On the other hand, September to November showcases the spring and summer collections. This gives ample time to the buyers, retailers and purchasers to assimilate and include the fashion plus size leather jackets  designers into their stores.
Latest innovation, flamboyant designs and striking new trends are showcased during these fashion weeks and all the latest collections are compiled into a special report and covered in all the leading fashion magazines in the world as well as the websites which cater exclusively to fashion. The first ever fashion week was held in 1943 with the purpose to distract attention in World War II from French fashion when workers from the fashion industry were unable to travel to Paris. It was believed that designers in America relied on the French for their inspiration and design. A fashion publicist by the name of Eleanor Lambert had organized an event called Press Week to showcase the works of American fashion designers. Magazines such as Vogue began to feature more American designers in their features and stories.
In the year 1903 a New York based shop held the country's first ever fashion show to lure middle-call socio economic groups into the store. Close on their heels, in 1910 major department stores were holding private fashion shows of their own. Along with promoting fashion these shows had elements of entertainment and were very theatrical in nature. It was theme based and accompanied with a narrative commentary. Fashion weeks helped in integrating all aspects of the fashion industry and bringing it under one roof.We are living in a world surrounded by numerous things that are either related to the technology, the latest gadgets or the latest fashion. And Fashion today has made its significance felt in almost all business suits for men  sectors of life. Fashion can be termed into two groups: One group which follows fashion trends and adopts them and the other group who create fashion and style statements for the others to follow them. It can also be extended to another set of people who rarely have anything to do with fashion trends but yet follow their own style to create their own unique personality; adding one more style to the fashion world.
Fashion is not just about cosmetics and make up or the hair-do. It is a sense of creating the charisma of looking good in anything you wear and this magic is created with the right kind of accessories going along with the foot wear and the clothes, making up a pleasant picture to view. Many a times, people who do not afford to buy expensive clothes look their best in their casual wear, just by presenting themselves in that manner of sophistication and creating an aura around them with the confidence of looking good.
There are myriad forms of fashion, and trends keep on changing with the seasons. From the early 60s and 70s to the present millennium, there has been an immense change in the forms,blue suits for men  looks and thoughts about fashion trends.
In India, much of fashion has been influenced by the Hindi Film Industry, popularly called Bollywood. The trends that have changed through time can be fairly seen in the movies made during the 60s and 70s and how they have evolved in various forms bringing about a style that can be followed by the general public. People have aped the west from very early times and this was no exception. The clothes made in the 60s and 70s were very much influenced by the western countries and given a traditional touch. The Bell Bottoms, scarves and the hair style was very much prevalent in those days as an icon of style. Later in the 80s and 90s, Fashion world sizzled like never before. There was a craving by the people to look different, stylish and modern and this could be seen in their outlook towards their outfit, new styles of hair, makeup, accessories like purses, earrings, necklaces, matching footwear etc.
People were conscious about each and every new thing that was marketed and they copied the styles from their Bollywood idols. Bollywood started as a platform for theatre artistes and went on to become a commercial entry to the youths and aspirants for a career in the film and fashion industry. This gave the youth of today to emphasize on the fashion black men in suits  world. Art and music have become an inseparable thing of the past and so it is deeply rooted in the present as well with more features and facilities.
Today fashion, art, music, designers, dance etc all have a place in the industry and people can choose to take up anything related to this industry as their profession too. Art and music have long been implemented in the school co-curricular activities and the Higher colleges are now offering various courses for better professionalism in these areas. There are also various acting schools and the small screen i.e., the television has opened up avenues in bringing out the talent in the young minds through numerous platforms of music and dance. This is the innovation of the millennium in creating jobs and work in the fashion industry. The trends that we see are brought about by the fashion houses that have regular seasons to showcase their invention, many of which are popularized in FTV, Zee Trendz and TLC channels. We can also get a glimpse of the stylish outfits through these shows that the models present. Today, Modelling is also one of the platforms for an entry into the world of fashion.
In the yester years, fashion was constrained only to the actors in the film or those that were bold enough to carry themselves in the public that they were considered fashionable. Others just wooed wedding sherwani  them behind close doors. Slowly when times began changing, we could see the women showing off their styles in the traditional saree with an embroidered blouse and a different neck style. Then we saw the saree being draped in various styles like the Bengali style or the Gujarati style etc. The women were liberating their choice of freedom and it could be seen in their appearances with a high heeled slipper or the handbag she carried or the way she held her saree or the hair and the makeup she wore. All these changes brought about the invention of churidhars and then the salwar kameez and finally the fashion of dresses was out in the open. Women accepted to the fact that there was nothing wrong in looking good and the men of course, loved to see the attractive side of women and fantasized the idea over their spouses.
This change in attitude of the public was very well taken by the fashionistas and a huge market was created to meet the demands of the public. Today fashion creates a new look with distinct style for a particular person and keeps oneself updated with the latest trends seen in the market. This industry is popular for its glamour as well as the mixture of Indian tradition and culture put into the designer wear that the models showcase.
People love to experiment different textures SEO Training  of materials used in the outfits and so the designers give them a wide collection of dresses using all kinds of clothes. There is the traditional Khadi and silk combination that is presently creating waves seen in both men's and women's wear. Then we have the embroidery work in zardosi, swarovski studded tops and lehangas and multi stoned work in bridal collection sarees etc. Then the most sought materials like cotton, polyster, chiffon, crush materials used in varied iconoclastic designs and styles.
Always there is a hope for the designers that the youth want a change in the fashion and are glad to keep up the trend with a fusion of Indian and western mix of fashionable wear. Also the youth of today are very practical in their sense of styling for a particular occasion. Be it a party or for a marriage or the casual look, they want the best and they believe in looking the best. And to achieve this, people go one step ahead in ensuring that they have everything in their wardrobe for any kind of occasion.
Apart from the stylish clothes and fashion that is currently popular people want to try something that goes along with their SEO training course outlook. So the market started towards the very own friend of a woman- The Hand Bag or the Purse. The Fresh look of a purse with magnificent colours and its stylish features like the chain handle or the jazzy zips with numerous pockets in different shapes attracted the public like never before. And with the increasing demand of the prices of branded purses, it became a must for every woman to complete her shopping. So did the other accessories line up by creating a place for themselves in the market. Just Seo training certification  a few to quote, the earring and necklaces, the various Belts, hand bracelets and brooch, the stiletto and its wonderful embroidered, party wear slippers along with its brotherly high rugged shoes giving a perfect cowboy look etc.
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the-gloomth · 3 months
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Consignment at Doll Funeral
We’re finally offering more consignment spots at our shop Doll Funeral in Toronto! If you have clothing you no longer wear and would like to resell to an alt community consignment with us is a great option. We accept second hand (clean, unstained, un-damaged) ready to wear clothing that suits a subculture aesthetic! We’re not looking for Shein or mall brands honestly, more unique pieces or…
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the-gloomth · 8 months
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We're Open a Store + Studio!!!!!!!!!
It’s official Gloomth is opening it’s first ever retail space and photo studio!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It’s called Doll Funeral (by Gloomth) “A secret shop for specialist fans, hidden in downtown Toronto in a dying mall. From the ashes of a capitalist monument rises a strange black flower, haunted by the past….“ We are so excited to invite you to come experience the Gloomth world in our own…
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the-gloomth · 7 months
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Doll Funeral Launch Party!
Doll Funeral by Gloomth Grand Opening Weekend Party! We’re celebrating the launch of our new little retail shop and photography studio! 222 Spadina Ave. – Unit 212 (one floor up from street level, on east side of the mall- directions to find us will be posted on the event page) ★ Saturday, October 14th 11am to 6pm ★ Sunday, October 15th 11am to 6pm RSVP on the facebook event! Shop Gloomth…
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the-gloomth · 2 months
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Closet Sale 2.0!
Our first Closet Sale was a big success! We can’t wait to host our next one on April 6th!!!! All the seller spots have been reserved and we have a ton of new participants with fresh styles to give your spring looks some new energy! RSVP on facebook event! -Tae
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