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thiswillbereportedtomanagement · 7 years

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The Streetwear Startup forum lets aspiring creative directors figure out whether their graphics are cool—and where they can get blank tees to print them on.There is absolutely no good reason the words “yo pierre, you wanna come out here?” should be here pinned on the page for Reddit’s Streetwear Startup subforum. Clicking on the words leads you nowhere, and the phrase—first heard on the Jamie Foxx Show and more recently popularized by hip-hop producer Pierre Bourne—doesn’t have anything to do with the page’s function: convening an unusually friendly online community to help burgeoning streetwear designers launch their brands. But it turns out that “yo pierre” is a perfect symbol for a genre of clothing that thrives on coded imagery—ranging from Coca-Cola to Dragon Ball Z—to signal to other people you’re hip, you’re in the know, and yes, you would like to come out here.The streetwear startup aims to dissect the very concept of cool. Can the designs and signals that have catapulted brands like Supreme and Kith into the fashion stratosphere be focus group-tested until you’ve found the thing that resonates with customers? After all, if the almost-14,000 users on the page think your piece is a must-cop, it’s also possible that Miami Dolphin Jarvis Landry will too, and will then wear it on ESPN, like he did with streetwear startup success story Rude Vogue. And if this chorus of voices say fire, there’s a decent chance the streetwear press will join in, like Hypebeast did with the brand Deadnight.Anyone with an Instagram account would be forgiven for thinking that the streetwear market is oversaturated with streetwear brands. But others see the endless stream as a siren call to jump into the fray. But the rush with coming up with a catchy name—seriously, it can be anything; the most popular streetwear brand in the world is called Supreme—can make you forget there are logistics to be dealt with. How do you get your vision on the screen? How do you make other people fuck with that vision? How do you get that art on a T-shirt? And, wait, where do you even get those T-shirts from? And once you have the T-shirts and someone willing to shell out the cash for it… what then?How do I get these printed?Streetwear Startup is built to answer those questions. “I want to keep it as open as possible and for it to be for anyone curious about brand startup as a whole,” says Dustin Wilkie, a recent UNC-Asheville grad who moderates the subreddit. The subreddit was formed, in November of 2013, and Wilkie, who was working on a brand of his own at the time, joined almost immediately. Wilkie says the person “who actually made it just doesn't use it, and I don't even have contact with them any more”—a poetic start for a page that’s all about trial and error. Wilkie was put in charge because he was the longest-tenured member.The subreddit’s main services can be broken down into two parts: beginner questions (What’s the best ecommerce site?) and brand feedback (What logo do you like most?). Wilkie’s goal is to eradicate the first part by compiling a How to Streetwear 101 handbook that will contain everything you need to get from idea to brand. “We have a pretty big problem with people posting the same beginner question over and over,” Wilkie laments. The ”wiki” currently covers four topics but “we're creating a how to beginner's guide that should handle all of those questions,” Wilkie says.“The subreddit is filled with people who are grinding away every day in the same way as me,” says Slade, a 20-year-old college student studying graphic design in Missouri who founded the brand VVID. “Oftentimes, they've stumbled and had to learn during their journey, too, and they're nice enough to impart that knowledge to me, and in turn I get to circumvent those mistakes.”Wilkie says the page has been growing quickly recently, though he can’t pinpoint the exact reason for all the newfound subscribers. Jaffry Mallari, a 19-year old Geomatics Engineering Technology student at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology, says that when he joined almost two years ago, there were only around 2,000 followers. He took a break after his first brand went to that friendly Shopify site in the sky, but when he came back around a year ago the number of subscribers had tripled to 6,000. Now it stands at around 14,000 members—and more people means more voices. “There is more information now,” Mallari says. “So now it's like more of a struggle [to get to the top post] but since there's more competition now it made me push harder on my designs.” Mallari dubbed his new brand Resurgence: “To fix the mistakes that I’d made and to do twice as well as before—that's the meaning of the brand.”When I catch Slade on email he tells me he was getting “sewing 101 tips.” Others start by sponging up even more rudimentary knowledge. Mallari recounts his first experience on the page: “I just kept putting in designs and kept asking questions, like, ‘What websites do I use? How do I get these printed?” Mallari says that the first brand he made “crumbled and fell off” after a bad business decision. “But back then I was still new to it and I thought [I’d found] an easier way. That's when I learned the hard way that's not how you need to run something.”Everyone started from the bottomBuilding a career in fashion takes time: Alessandro Michele worked anonymously for more than a decade at Gucci before being handed the reins. Building a career on r/StreetwearStartup is a considerably quicker process. “I have been posting in the subreddit showcasing my collections for about 18 months now,” says Sam Hall, a 27-year-old living in Manchester. In that span, his brand Deadnight has been featured on Hypebeast. Well-followed DJs like Example and KuruptFM requested clothing from him. Now, he says he’s in talks to be stocked “across Asia for a very large organization.” That’s thanks to the subreddit, he says: “Each time I have received high praise from members, but most importantly vital feedback which I have used each and every time to improve.” And therein lies what’s truly one-of-a-kind about this page: unlike most internet enclaves, most people on Streetwear Startup aren’t total assholes.A large percentage of the posts request feedback on a design. Amateur designers posting their best efforts to an audience granted internet anonymity should be like throwing red meat to a pack of hypebeasts. But the group on Streetwear Startup is almost entirely supportive, and only intends to nurture when it does give feedback. Compare the top comment on a recent Hypebeast article—”Looka ma stickers bruuuuuuuh. Fucking f*****s”—with a comment the brand Anomaly received when its founder asked for feedback on a tee: “I really like the original to the point where I'll cop rn if you release.”And that’s just one of the 33 comments offering advice on what the graphic should look like (“If you're going for the water reflection look, I feel like you should make the water a little more recognizable,” writes one commenter) and ways to add small details (“Would like to see something really simple on the back of the shirt,” reads another post). Anomaly’s founder Adam has been on the subreddit since 2015 and describes it as a key resource in building his brand. “It's the first place I turn to whenever I need feedback on a new design, tips on marketing, or just advice in general,” Adam tells me via email. “I'm not exaggerating when I say I wouldn't be here if it weren't for the supportive, albeit critical, community.”That sentiment is echoed by other users. “I personally value when people on the sub are a bit ruthless,” says VVID’s Slade. “It may often hurt my feelings at first reaction, but I also find harsh critique to give my subconscious a new perspective when approaching design.”What feeds the harmonious atmosphere is the fact that everyone has some skin in the game. “Everyone has the same perspective,” says Mallari. “So it's much easier for them to praise others, keep it up, this is good. It's a supportive environment because everyone started from the bottom.” Wilkie says he’s only ever banned one person.The whole community is reliant on this continuous feedback loop. “If you give to the community, we're going to try and give back to you,” says Wilkie.But this isn’t just a fun hobby; those who stick with the subreddit are serious about their success and the page can act as a fast track to it. “This is the future for me,” says Slade of his brand. “I'm hoping when Volume 3 releases I'll be able to drop out of school and do VVID full-time. I don't think it’s a long shot.”Adam, a 17-year-old who runs a brand called Anomaly with his friends Omar and Abdullah, echoes that thought. “Every brand owner within the subreddit wants the same thing: to make it big,” he says.It’s the amount of experience that all of us combined can bring to one person's ideaThe subreddit’s greatest strength, though, is the sheer number of voices and people it can bring to bear on an issue. “We have [14,000] people now but even if 10 people talk to you about a design that may help you decide to start over or decide that, ‘Wow this is really something I can work on.’” says Wilkie.When I ask Slade what the most valuable thing he gets from the subreddit is he says opinions. This is what’s most disruptive about the page: it lets burgeoning designers to crowdsource their designs rather than coming up with designs in isolation, investing the money, then plopping them on the web in hopes of finding an audience for the work.The process by which the clothing is made is different, but the resulting products have a lot in common with brands we’re familiar with. In the world of streetwear, the difference between what we consider hot and not oftentimes has a lot to do with the name behind it, rather than the strict aesthetic appeal of whatever’s on the front. The reasons we lose our collective shit over a white tee with a red box on it isn’t because of its unprecedented design quality; it’s because of everything that red box signifies. Anomaly recently featured paintings that were criticized for looking too similar to those used by popular streetwear brand Heron Preston. The factor that makes one cool and another unoriginal can often come down to the name. There’s nothing inherently uncool about the brands on the streetwear subreddit except maybe that they’re just not cool yet.Sorting out all the signals is why the streetwear startup can be so helpful. “I needed a place to gauge the response a larger audience would have to the collection and I wanted to know if it would stand out the way I wanted it to,” Slade explains. “What better way to test that than post in a community of people who look at or create streetwear designs all day, and see what they think?” You can feel out a customer base before needing, you know, a customer base.And because these are people who also have brands, it makes them the perfect target market. “If the majority of them like it, it will mostly likely at least sell a few pieces,” says Mallari. Streetwear Startup offers people a testing ground for items and designs before they ever put real monetary investment into anything. And you can keep taking the community’s advice until you’ve smoothed out the edges enough that someone—probably a number of someones on Streetwear Startup, who have now all helped you make a garment closer to their tastes—might actually buy your product. Fashion isn’t a science, but in Streetwear Startup you can play a game of addition and subtraction based on feedback until you’ve got something at least one person will wear.And you can keep adding and subtracting until someone like Jarvis Landry wears your clothes on ESPN. Matt Nicholas, a 30-years-old supplement store manager in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada and the designer behind Rude Vogue, says that the subreddit vaulted him in front of a larger audience, but the Landry placement is on a different level. “It was a pretty amazing feeling, just growing up always watching ESPN daily and then to see your brand you've worked so hard for making a cameo on SportsCenter,” Nicholas says. The rest of the subreddits users are hoping to find the same kind of streetwear success — with a little help from their 14,000 friends.Watch Now:How Kinfolk Became One of the Coolest Designers on the PlanetMORE STORIES LIKE THIS ONE

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