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[lesindispensablesparis]

No Man Walks Alone - Le Précurseur

[Article non sponsorisé ] Lecture 5 minutes

Genèse

No Man Walks Alone est un e-commerce basé à New-York et fondé par Gregory Lellouche. Né dans les années 1970 en France, il poursuit une carrière de banquier aux Etats-Unis pendant 10 ans. En parallèle il est membre (également depuis plus de 10 ans) du Style Forum, l’un des forums les plus influents et les plus pointus en matière de mode masculine. Il décide par la suite de lancer No Man Walks Alone. On est en 2013. L’idée est de proposer des marques homme qualitatives mais relativement peu distribuées en ligne. On se souviendra notamment qu’il a été un des premiers à vendre sur Internet des blousons Valstar ou des manteaux Luigi Bianchi Mantova en laine Casentino !

Pourquoi No Man Walks Alone ? Comme l’explique Gregory Lellouche dans un podcast pour le magazine Scandinavian Man, chacun (les clients, les partenaires, la presse…) à sa propre interprétation de ce nom de marque. Mais pour lui, elle est d’abord de représenter des marques ayant un vrai un savoir faire et qui ne sont pas ou peu médiatisées. Car personne ne peut réussir seul. La force du site est de rassembler une communauté amoureuse de beaux produits.

Un sens du beau, des pièces inédites

La deuxième force de No Man Walks Alone a toujours été de proposer des produits assez inédits. C’est par exemple sur ce site que l’on découvrait pour la première fois des ceintures dites tubulaires. Et encore aujourd’hui ce type de produit est quasiment introuvable en France. Un potentiel marché ? Elles sont produites par Farnese, un fabricant Italien qui travaillait alors essentiellement en marque blanche.

"[...] for instance with the tubo belts, which the retailer doesn't sell anymore, it was a question of going one step further and going to the manufacturer that had been making the belts the whole time anyway. And I am taking a little bit of risk there because I'm selling a brand that no one knows. But it's not about the brand, it's about the product and the maker. And the maker is a serious group of craftsmen that have been making for other brands, and now they have the opportunity to sell under their own brand. "  -- Gregory Lellouche, Interview de StyleForum

C’est aussi sur ce site qu’on a découvert la marque Valstar sur laquelle on a écrit un long article ici.

A l’époque il était assez rare de trouver des blousons en laine avec des doublures en laine ou en cachemire en dessous de 1000€. Et encore moins avec des boutons en cornes et des bord-côtes en laine mérinos (et non en coton). Une marque qui continue de proposer des vêtements d’exception. Par exemple ce manteau :

En 2015 il était également quasiment impossible de trouver des manteaux en laine Cansentino en dehors de la grande botte. Comme l’explique Gregory Lellouche, il était risqué d’en vendre ailleurs car cette laine est très particulière et peu être mal perçue. (elle a un aspect “bouloché”). Mais quand on voit les produits proposés, on est bien content qu’ils aient pris ce risque. Les manteaux sont superbes.

"Then the other risk is in the choices for the assortment we have. For instance with the casentino coats, I don't think that any retailer in the US bought those coats. In Italy, they did really well. The guys at Luigi Bianchi did really well selling them in Italy, but in the US they're a little too specialty. And the idea is that I'm not just going to put it out there and show a picture of it and have people wonder why the wool is pilling everywhere, but also educate people through an article explaining what casentino wool is, in theory it all makes sense. "  -- Gregory Lellouche, Interview de StyleForum

Eidos

Toujours en 2015, les pièces de la marque Napolitaine Eidos étaient particulièrement recherchées. (Ce qui correspond à l’époque où Antonio Ciongoli en,était encore le Directeur Artistique)

Sartoria Formosa

Si vous avez vu O’Mast, vous êtes déjà familier avec ce tailleur Napolitain. A notre connaissance No Man Walks Alone est le distributeur en ligne de ce tailleur Italien. Chapeau !

Rota Pantaloni

On lit souvent que Incotex propose les meilleurs pantalons de prêt-à-porter. Et Rota alors ? Là encore, No Man Walks Alone a été un des premiers e-commerce à en distribuer.

Toutes ces marques n’étaient pas ou peu distribuées ailleurs. MrPorter était déjà un poids lourd du e-commerce homme mais leur sélection était beaucoup plus restreinte. Trunkclothiers existait déjà mais sa sélection était également beaucoup plus restreinte. Idem pour le mastodonte EndClothing. On se souviendra aussi qu’à cette époque TrèsTrèsBien était au top. Mais le e-commerce n’était pas toujours bien compris, et certaines marques refusaient d’y aller.

Le site a également innové dans les descriptions produit et les photos. On pouvait avoir accès à plus d’informations - ce qui peut paraître comme un minimum quand on dépense 2000€ dans un costume - ou de meilleurs photos sur les textures des matières utilisées. Cette différence existe d’ailleurs encore en partie, la majorité des marques de luxe se contentant du strict minimum pour décrire leurs fiches produits.

Quelques autres exemples qui nous ont marqué depuis 2013 :

Stephen Schneider

Buttero Sneakers

La marque est relativement connue des passionnés de sneakers, mais à l’époque c’était une petite révolution. Elles présentent une même forme que des Common Project mais avec un jeu sur les matières et les textures assez nouveau.

Robert Geller

Précurseur

Au-delà de la très belle sélection, on se souviendra aussi qu’ils avaient mis en place un système de pré-commandes dès 2014/2015.

Lookbook et marques distribuées

Ce qui est aussi peu commun sur No Man Walks Alone, c’est la variété des marques distribuées. Des plus sartoriales comme Sartoria Formosa au plus “créatives” comme Frank Leder ou Stephan Schneider. A part sur des géants du secteur comme EndClothing ou MrPorter - qui distribuent quasiment tout - , très peu de sites peuvent se targuer d’une telle proposition.

Vidéos

Des vidéos sont produites depuis le début de l’aventure. Nous on est particulièrement fan de celles qui mettent en avant les lieux de fabrications. Comme celle des chemises G.Inglese ou des costumes Cantarelli.

“Cantarelli strikes a unique balance between comfort, elegance, and practicality. They use only the best fabrics from Italian mills such as Carlo Barbera and Loro Piana; by focusing on soft tailoring, they're able to produce lightweight, comfortable garments that look as appropriate in the business world as outside of it. Since Mauro Ranieri Cantarelli laid the foundations of the company in 1970, Cantarelli has gone through through a number of steps in its evolution. In 1992, it purchased Saint Andrews, the famed tailored clothing maker based in Fano. Through owning Saint Andrews for fifteen years, Cantarelli benefitted from the production techniques that made Saint Andrews so renowned among high-end makers. Cantarelli sold St Andrews in 2006 to focus on its own line, making all its products in its three factories located between Rigutìno and Terontola, in the Arezzo region of Italy. We like how Cantarelli's luxurious materials and soft construction allow their jackets to be worn like sweaters, but still maintain clean, sharp lines that look suitable for business and leisure life alike. “

No Man Walks Alone

Blog

Dernier point, le site possède une bonne série d’articles écrits par Réginald-Jérôme de Mans - dont le tumblr est https://obeyfeline.tumblr.com/ ou encore par David Ilse. Ils ont par exemple également fait une interview de David Marx.

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sweater maker https://sweaterchina.net

Email: [email protected]

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