The British Hat Guild
While hats used to be normal occurrence (and by ‘normal’ I mean that they were the norm — one did not go out without a hat!) they have become a rarefied article. To the extent that wearing a fedora can expose you to frowns and stares. And yet classic menswear cannot do without hats —they are a craft unto themselves, and more than an accessory, they are a defining stylistic element.
Which is why one should welcome the recent creation of the British Hat Guild.
At least since Aesop’s fable “The Bundle of Sticks”, it’s always been a fact that “unity makes strength”. In times of concentrated economic powers, the industrial clout of ready-to-wear has all but wiped out the artisans who ply their trade at a smaller scale. There is a clear opposition between the massive scale of modern cities, the supermarkets or online distributors and the brick and mortar boutiques that are the essence of our cities and social experience and nonetheless fast disappearing.
On 23rd March 1956, the Groupe des Cinq was founded in Paris at the Maxim’s restaurant by famous bespoke tailors Joseph Camps, André Bardot, Socrate, Di Nota, Gaston Waltener (then joined by Max Evzeline). They aimed at putting together their resources to promote their craft and present their collections twice a year. What is little known is that six hat-makers had joined them: Berteil, Delion, Gélot, Léon, Motsch and Willoughby. It goes to show that hats were part and parcel of the tailoring tradition and that they had to be included in such an initiative.
The revival of interest for bespoke tailoring is mirrored in this ambitious drive to promote the hat. Carole Denford, founder of The Hat Magazine was the initiator of the British Hat Guild, currently made up of 33 prominent milliners, including Lock & Co Hatters, Stephen Jones, Alva Wilson, Dillon Wallwork, etc. The directors are Harvy Santos (Treasurer), Carole Denford (Secretary), Stephen Jones (Chairman), Rachel Skinner, Judy Bentinck.
While they seem to focus on women’s hats, obviously and undeniably providing the more spectacular hats on the market with the more striking visual impact, their goals are in keeping with the core objectives of any self-respecting artisan — ‘craftsmanship, artistry, creativity, heritage, education, inspiration’.
The important connection here is between craftsmanship and education. There is no way to promote one without the other as it is indeed key to keeping any tradition alive: preserving a heritage implies passing it on, sharing the know-how, the skills, the experience. It is a well-inspired move, echoing what is happening in tailoring in various places — think of Naples for instance…
We wish them great success, hoping their action will inspire others — boot-makers, tailors or shirt-makers…
The British Hat Guild
https://www.thebritishhatguild.org.uk/
18 notes
·
View notes
eBay Roundup
Twice a week, we round up the best of menswear on eBay so that our readers don’t have to. For an additional roundup, along with a list of each week’s best sales, subscribe to our Inside Track newsletter.
This week, our pal the RJcat contributed some great finds, including this Duke of Windsor cocktail set, pair of vintage Gucci cups and saucers, and black Aurillac mini umbrella I almost bought for myself.
To dig up more menswear gems, try using our customized eBay search links. We’ve made them so you can quickly hone-in on high-end suits, good suits, high-quality shirts and fine footwear.
Suits, sport coats, and blazers
Kiton green striped suit, size?
Man 1924 sport coats, various sizes
Grey WW Chan suits, 36 (1, 2)
Blue cotton blend SuitSupply suit, 40
Brown checked cashmere Kiton sport coat, 42
Grey herringbone Ring Jacket suit, 44
Max Evzeline dinner jacket, ~44
Outerwear
Denim & Supple snorkel parka, various sizes
Man 1924 outerwear, various sizes
Sierra Designs blue down vest, S
Vintage jeep coat, 38
APC black MA-1 bomber, M
Charcoal Berluti Forestiere, 42
Deep pile Patagonia Retro-X fleece, L
Hooded Stephen Schneider coat, XL (pictured above)
Vintage D-pocket double rider, 44
Ralph Lauren peacoat, XL
Kilgour French & Stanbury double breasted coat, 46
Sweaters and knits
Pringle vanilla-colored shawl collar cardigan, M
Grey cashmere Gieves crewneck, 40
Grey ribbed Our Legacy sweater, L
Charcoal Donegal Falcara shawl collar cardigan, L
Burgundy Inis Meain fisherman sweater, L
Shirts and pants
Blue striped Woods & Brown shirt, 14.5
Lavandar French cuffed Smyth & Gibson shirt, 15.5
Blue Turnbull & Asser shirt, 15.5
Blue checked Borrelli shirt, 15.75
Tan Wallace & Barnes work shirt, M
Bunch of Hilditch & Key shirts, 16
Checked Liverano dress shirts, L and ~XL
Lambourne brown corduroy trousers, 36
Shoes
Ralph Lauren M-43 boots, 8 (pictured above)
Ralph Lauren suede single monks, 8.5
Lucchese navy roper boots, 9
Kilgour, French & Stanbury tassel loafers, 12
Ties
Blue striped silk Drake's tie (1, 2)
Brown checked wool Drake's tie
Navy geometric Panama silk Drake's tie
Various Yellow Hook neckties
Cashmere Cucinelli grey knit tie
Blue knit ties (1, 2)
Bags, briefcases, and wallets
Black and orange Ettinger card case
Black Papworth briefcase
Blue Patrik Ervell helmet bag
Vintage black Delvaux briefcase
Misc.
Orlebar Brown swim trunks, 36 and 38
US belt buckle
Swatch watches (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
Green canvas surcingle Sulka belt, M
King's farewell abdication pocket square
Mougin & Piquard watch
Pair of Gucci cups and saucers (pictured above)
Curtis Mayfield LP
Suspenders (1, 2)
Turnbull & Asser fabric book
Black Aurillac mini umbrella (more details here)
Duke of Windsor cocktail set
Duchess of Windsor Christmas card
Vintage N. Peal cashmere catalog
Goyard cat carrier
Western Flair Western belt buckles (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
Herbert Johnson hats (6 7/8, 7 1/4, 7 1/4)
Some cool trunks (1, 2, 3, 4)
Ralph Lauren alligator belt, 34
Charvet silk knotted cufflinks (1, 2)
Four Vices cufflinks
Bamboo handle jigger
Sterling silver Native American bracelet
If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On's Inside Track for just five bucks a month.
12 notes
·
View notes