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zomatocommunity · 7 years

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Parsi food in Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and Delhi

Parsis migrated to India from Iran between the 8th and 10 century C.E seeking refuge. And along with them they brought their food with influences from middle east, Turkey and other surrounding regions. Over the years, the cuisine has absorbed local flavours of where they settled in India - Maharashtra, Gujarat, Kolkata and other cities. In Mumbai, there still are many Iranian cafes which were opened by Parsis decades, and in some cases, more than a century, ago. However, it's only in the last couple of years that Parsi food has been gaining momentum beyond the simple cafe. With delightful restaurants like SodaBottleOpenerWala opening in other cities like Bangalore and Hyderabad, Parsi food has become mainstream and sought after by most restaurant goers.

In this piece, we'll tell you where you can get some good Parsi grub if you're in Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and Delhi. Bangalore

Red Fork in Indiranagar is owned and run by a Parsi family. Most of their food is cafe style but if you ask the staff, you'll be told about the Parsi dishes they serve. Definitely worth a visit if you have a hankering for something new. They are open from 9 AM to 10:30 PM. For a hearty Parsi breakfast of akuri, Parsi omelette or even akuri pancakes, head to My Way Little Dinette on Dickenson Road. They also have Parsi mains like sali boti and patra ni maach along with sides like kheema pattice and chicken farcha. Of course, not to forget the comforting dhansaak. All this and more from 9 AM to 11 PM everyday except Sundays when they wind up at 4 PM. On a night out with friends in Koramangala? Head to JukeBox for some old school rock and Parsi food. A small section of their menu has just what you should have - mutton and chicken dhansaak, patrani maach, salli boti, chicken cutlets, salli chicken, chicken farchas and mutton frilly cutlets. Perfect with a pitcher of beer any day between 10:30 AM to 11:30 PM. Chennai

Parsi food isn't popular in Chennai yet but here's hoping things will change soon. But the one highly rated restaurant we have there is Batlivala & Khanaboy in Alwarpet. They have an elaborate 5 page menu filled with all sorts of Parsi delicacies. From meat to vegetables, they have something delicious for everyone. The vegetarian fare includes dishes like lagan sara instoo pattice which is root veggies stuffed pattice coated with semolina and deep fried, yam pattice, gravy cutlets, stuffed aubergines and cauliflower in coconut milk among others. Meat lovers have chicken maivala, salli boti, dhansak, papri ma kebab and kheema pao. They also have combo meals like dhandar, rice and pumpkin patio, gosht ne kebab no pulao and dal, and dhansak, brown rice and kachumber. All this and more authentic Parsi dishes await you. They are open all days from 12 noon to 11 PM. Pune

Weekend's almost here and what better way to kick start it on a Saturday with some delicious Parsi food at Where Else Cafe in Viman Nagar? Their weekend special Parsi bhonu includes tamota per eedu (eggs on spicy tomatoes), marghi na farcha (Parsi style fried chicken), kheema na pattice and patra ni macchi (steamed pomfret wrapped in banana leaf). Besides these specialties they also have salli margi/gosht, dhansak, kurchan and lagan nu custard (Parsi custard). They are open from 11:30 AM to 11 PM on weekdays and on weekends they open early at 9:30 AM. Zamu's Place on Dhole Patil Road isn't strictly Parsi in its menu but there are a few classics you could try like the dhansak, sali boti, sali chicken and dal dhansak. They are open from 11 AM to 3 PM and 7 PM to 11 PM. Then there's Dorabjee & Sons in Camp Area. How can we not mention one of Pune's oldest establishments? They have all things Parsi and don't miss their Sunday special mutton dhansak with brown rice, patra fish and mutton shami kebab. Open all days from 9:30 AM to 10:30 PM. Delhi

If you're new to Parsi food we suggest Rustom's Parsi Bhonu in Adchini. They only do home deliveries and you can sit back and try some of their delicious food right at the comfort of your home. Start off with marghi na cutlets which is shredded chicken and potato cutlets or their kheema pattice which is spicy and sour minced mutton stuffed in mashed potato patties. Vegetarians can try patra na paneer which is sliced paneer wrapped in banana leaf and cooked with spices. You could also try their soy or makai pattice. For mains there's masala ni kolmi which is prawns cooked in Parsi spices, masoor ma gos which is mutton on the bone cooked with masoor dal or sali boti which is sweet, sour and spicy mutton cooked in a tomato gravy and topped with crisp potato slaw. They deliver on all days except Mondays and from 12:30 AM to 3 PM and 7:30 PM to 11 PM. Simple joys of maska pao, Parsi masala omelette, akoori on toast and other Parsi dishes can be had at Rustom's Cafe & Bakery in Malviya Nagar. They also have the Bombay grill sandwich, shrewsberry biscuits, mawa cake and Rustom's caramel custard. They stay open all days except Mondays from 10 AM to 7:30 PM.

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thesundiaries · 7 years

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New Delhi & Agra, India

Turns out April in regions near the equator is the hottest time of the year. We were vaguely aware of this before booking our trip to India but it really only hit us when we walked out of our plane onto the searing asphalt and blinding sun of the tarmac at Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi. It was the beginning of a trip that had high highs and low lows but that really truly leaves a lasting impression on you. There is nowhere quite like it, this mixture of urban sprawl, ancient history, and tropical air.

Delhi is a city that has to be seen to be believed. It is sitting in LA-level traffic in an air-conditioned Uber with Bollywood music playing in the background while green-and-pink tuk tuks and motorcycles packed with whole families whiz by, horns blaring as a monkey climbs on a nearby car. It is women walking to temple by a freeway in beautiful jewel-colored saris with shining gold filigree, the colors dulled by a haze of red dust that billows up from the ground and the smog that permeates the air. It is having a 10 rupee pakora in a grease stained napkin for lunch in an alley of Chandi Chowk and then spending 11,000 rupee on dinner at Bukhara at the ITC Maurya, where you wait next to a giant orchid arrangement in the mahogany paneled lobby for the taxi the concierge called for you. It is walking out of a 400 year old sandstone fort directly into a maze of stores and tangled electric wires that nearly block out the sun, looking for the neon lights of the closest McDonald's to buy a Fanta.

Truth be told, it can be a bit overwhelming and there were times we felt defeated by the heat, the blaring traffic and a stomach bug or two. But I can safely say that it is unlike any of the other metropolises I have been in and if you fly into Delhi you should definitely take some time to explore the city. And save up for a meal at Bukhara.

THE PLACE TO PICNIC INSIDE A PALACE:

If you're looking for historical sights, the Red Fort is probably near the top of your list. This expansive structure was built in the 1600s and served as the main residence for the Mughal emperors for 200 years. It is hewn out of red sandstone and white marble, with green gardens criss crossed by the long dry beds of canals that used to carry the water that surfaced inside the ornate carved pavilions and cooled their shadowy, pale interiors and noble residents. In its courtyards and dungeons the emperor used to carry out Coliseum-style fights between exotic animals like lions and elephants. In the present day, you can find many families picnic-ing on the lawns and pigeons roosting in the intricately carved marble walls, their former bright white color faded to beige and streaked with dark grey smudges from age. Bring water. And if you dread roaming the fort underneath the bright Delhi sun the night can be a preferable time to visit when you can also witness the Sound and Light Show, which projects colorful art onto the facade of the fort to the sound of music. Buy tickets in advance and note the separate (usually shorter) line for tourists.

WHERE TO GRAB A BITE POST-RED FORT:

Chandi Chowk is a market area in Delhi adjacent to the Red Fort that is rife with small shops and food stands. We were there on a Sunday where most shops were closed but walking in the narrow alleys, dodging motorcycles and cast iron pans bubbling with fried loops of orange jalebi and peeking inside the occasional sari store or barbershop is still an experience. I would likely not have worn open toe shoes if I went again and instead of waiting for an Uber, would have grabbed one of the many tuk tuks rushing by to find a ride home. As for food, this site provides a comprehensive list and Karim's Kebabs nearby is a particularly popular spot. As is just looking for what looks good (and well-fried if you are wary of Delhi belly).

WHERE TO GO FOR NEW YORK CITY PRICES AND THE BEST CHICKEN OF LIFE:

If you are pleased with how far money can stretch in India, Bukhara will be a bit of a rude awakening. You can easily spend $100 USD per person here but if you can't tell by the refined interiors of the ITC Maurya hotel that houses Bukhara and the genteel English-speaking service, this is a pre-tty nice establishment. The food here, a lot of it flame-grilled over charcoal pits, is exceptional. No doubt one of the best chicken dishes I've had and together with the blistered naan, buttery black lentil daal, cool creamy raita and giant cubes of life-changing seared paneer cheese - probably one of the best meals of my life in general. The waiter threw in some free dessert, saffron tinged and pistachio topped firni (an Indian rice pudding) and we left very happy if unexpectedly $160 USD poorer. If we went again I would skip the cocktails (save the room for more daal then get your cocktail fix at the 1911 bar The Imperial Hotel) and take note of the rupee to USD conversion rate, which were blissfuly unaware of the first day in Delhi.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel prices in Delhi can range from $2 USD a night for a bunk bed in a shared room in a hostel to $1000+ USD for a room at one of the Taj properties. Although Airbnb is not as popular in India, we still found interesting properties in the Delhi area. Although some of them can be further from the city center, note that Uber is safe, widely used and very affordable (we rarely spent more than $2 USD on a ride). Hauz Khaz, Greater Kailash and New Friend's Colony are all good, safe, relatively upscale neighborhoods to stay in that are not too far from main attractions. And there are some sights and eats within, including the Lotus Temple and Seventyseven restaurant, both in New Friend's Colony. We booked a fairly large apartment in Greater Kailash that easily accommodated five people (and could have accommodated at least 2 more) with a rooftop garden that had quite the sunrise and sunset views. There was also A/C, filtered water in the kitchen and it included a prepared breakfast every morning (for about $100 USD a day). Link here.

IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME IN DELHI:

There are many places we missed as we only had 3 days total in Delhi. Besides the attractions we saw Akshardam, Humayan's Tomb, Jama Masjid Mosque, Qutb Minaret, Lodhi Gardens, the Stepwells, Connaught Place and Dilli Haat (for hand made goods) were all stops on our list we didn't get to. As for restaurants, SodaBottleOpenerWala , a traditional tea house (like this one or this one) and this list from CN Traveler were all noted down too.

FOR FEELING LIKE A LOCAL:

You can get to Agra from Delhi via train (2-3 hours) or private transport car (~3 hours). The train is significantly cheaper and a chance to ride with nearly all locals if you take the regular train instead of the express. Make sure you reserve seats and if you are a woman traveling alone, there is a women-only car. We sat across from a family with two small children and some locals perched on the bunk beds that were in for much longer trips than us. Although few people spoke English the few that did were fun to chat to and wonderfully helpful when the conductor came by and (angrily) noticed we were seating in the wrong area as we had not reserved seats. It's a long ride, the benches are far from comfy, and there is no AC but the company of your fellow passengers and the Indian countryside whizzing by the open windows is quite the experience. Maybe book it only one way and then take the more comfortable express with it's airline style seats or a private car back the other way. Bring snacks and bug spray.

IF YOU MISSED THE RED FORT:

If you missed the Red Fort in Delhi, the Agra Fort in Agra is it's bigger and badder cousin. Similar to the Red Fort it is not solely a fort but a large complex and the Agra Fort is so massive it can be considered a walled town. It was also a residence for Mughal emperors and part of the fort is still in use by the Indian military. You can find multiple courtyards and gardens, some framed by imposing arches hewn out of red sandstone and others all delicate terraces and carved white marble. Be prepared to walk a bit and definitely bring water with you. There are many guides that will offer their services to you if you want a more complete tour. We opted to just wander around. Also, in my opinion I would skip the Red Fort entirely or just go for the Light & Sound show in Delhi if I was also visiting the Agra Fort, which in my opinion is more impressive and has a similar enough architectural style that there is no need to go to both.

WHERE TO BREAK FOR LUNCH:

I don't know about you but despite being a big fan of Indian food, the variety of Indian food we get in the US is quite limited and although most people know what vindaloo curry and tikka masala is, there were times when I would look at a menu and not understand what a single dish was. I now am much more well-versed in what constitutes a dosa, a paratha, a vada and an idli. And if you are not, the lacey thin crepe you see above is a dosa.

Dosas are a thin crepe-like pancake, made of a rice and lentil batter. They cook up so that they are crispy and feather-light, and are often filled with golden spiced potatoes or thickly sliced paneer cheese. On the side, they are served with a wide range of hot and cold sauces like cool coconut chutney, pickled onions, warm lentil daal, and tomato chutney. The onion dosas we got at Dasaprakash were laced with tiny flecks of caramelized onions and I would highly recommend them. The restaurant had friendly servers and was also where I discovered my favorite Indian beverage: salty lime soda. If you are worried about the salty part, you can get them sweet and salty - but the salty is SO much more refreshing. Lastly, if you are in the mood, besides their top-notch dosas, Dasaprakash also has a very extensive ice cream selection for dessert.

IF YOU'RE IN THE MARKET FOR A NEW CHEESE BOARD:

Note that in general if you arrive by train to Agra you will need to hire a car to drive you around. There is a taxi station right outside the train station that shows fixed prices for the driving fares. Although we were skeptical of how pushy the drivers were, it is the way to do it (unless you are staying in Agra and have arranged a tour thru your hotel). The prices are all inclusive although you are expected to tip at the end. Usually you can see multiple sites, like the Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal, while your driver waits outside for you. They will also take you to lunch and dinner if you are staying late: if you have any preference as to where you can request to be taken there, if not they will likely take you to a friend's restaurant. It is also common for them to stop at shops that sell marble inlaid items and gems, both characteristic of Agra. Although they definitely get a commission if you buy anything we found both shops to be of good quality and bought a small marble table and a pair of earrings. Likely because it was the off season and we spotted very few other non-Indians around (even at the Taj Mahal), we were able to get generous discounts (...at least from the initial price stated).

THE BIG ONE:

I guess if it's your first time in India it's difficult to not go to the Taj Mahal. Many times when I first visit a city I eschew the big, more time-consuming uber-tourist spots - I only went to the Louvre the third time I went to Paris and despite living in Toronto, I've yet to make it to the CN Tower. But there is a reason they are such major attractions. And even if you feel like you already know exactly what the Taj Mahal looks like, seeing it in person, with the sunlight gleaming off it's curved white walls, is quite a thing. In the off season when we went, it is not terribly crowded at all, and you can walk around and linger wherever you want. Our guide also suggested going later in the day to catch the sunset and to avoid the midday heat, which I wholly endorse. When it's busier, I hear sunrise and sunset boat rides thru the river that runs beside it are a serene and unique way to see this wonder of the world.

Note that as a foreigner, your ticket already includes a guide, a bottle of water and covers for your shoes. So no need to go with one of the "official" guides that try to tell you they can help you cut the line at the outside entrance.

IF YOU MISS MEXICAN FOOD:

If you miss your weekly burrito, try a chicken kathi roll! Spiced chicken and/or paneer are rolled in fluffy kathi rolls, fresh off the griddle. Cheap, fast, and tasty, we were big fans of Mama Chicken in Agra. They also have biryani, mutton and momos if you want to stray from their specialty.

#india #delhi #guide #agra #taj mahal #restaurants #bukhara #red fort

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