This week, I read an article pertaining to a more up and coming designer, Jawara Alleyne. It's mentioned that he draws a lot of inspiration from his Jamaican and Caymanian roots, as he started becoming noticed in the East for his designs early on. He uses staples like safety pins, jerseys, and distressed fabrics to add visuals and character to his lines. His works are also known to be rather non-conforming to gender roles, having a lot of the female models being dressed more masculine, and the male models dressing more provocative. Alleyne takes basic and simple casual wear, and warps it into something completely different, either by adding extreme cuts, patterns, detailing, embellishments, etc.
In the United States, the focus on manufacturing has been rather centered around a cheaper price point for these companies through tactics such as expanding overseas to exploit the cheap labor and lower environmental standards they hold. Consumers play such a large part in it recently because the demand for certain trends is constantly changing, leaving people constantly looking for something "in style". The opportunities in fashion reside in the ability of the individual and the reinforcing of a stronger humanitarian message. With this in mind, people will be encouraged to look for brands that are of better quality and higher sustainability.
The "Rewiring Fashion" movement was created to try and encourage the re-adjustment of the fashion world, especially with the timing of things such as popular events and shows throughout the year. In specific, many people want to change the production calendar in which shows must comply with. This relates to our class because especially in modern times, a lot of the information we receive about certain brands and trends will be changed or possibly stalled because of these new efforts.
In addition, part of the movement supports the right for designers to show collections of the season right before hitting stores. This is to prevent mockups and fakes that would typically force brands to discount earlier than anticipated. This is a financial loss for these companies, but it also deprives these companies of their brand identity and individuality as the designs become over-saturated rather quickly. Such an issue makes us question the importance of the authenticity of fashion and what we should prioritize when looking to purchase items.
Fashion is personal to both the buyer and the creator, and when we have items that get cycled in as fast as they get cycled out, the "magic" of an ensemble simply does not exist. We see this happen more and more often today, especially with things like fast fashion. The entire efforts behind the "Rewiring Fashion" movement are to try and foster fashion back into a state of creativity and expression, as fashion is a form of art, not just a social media trend. This philosophy is something I believe that we similarly foster in our classroom, as authenticity is constantly emphasized upon when it comes to our work and aspirations.
For this weeks discussion, I read an article about Maison Margiela and how they're entering themselves into Web3 with gamified collectibles. Web3 is another term for the internet/web defined by a more specific set of values and technical applications such as ubiquity, decentralization, artificial intelligence, etc. By visiting the website, you can see the game displayed and the fact it's based off of the famed Maison numerical label. The aim is to try to get players to acquire tokens, which are equivalent to an asset in art, new media, and digital content. By crossing the boundaries between fashion and digitalization, Margiela is showing the impact that media and technology has on things like fashion and the arts. It's fascinating to see how companies are changing themselves to keep up with newer times, while also staying true to their own brand.
While these issues have been taking place since 2021, the popularity and importance of sustainable textiles has been put into effect in loads of different ways. Raw materials are now scarcer and if acquirable, they’ll be much more expensive. Fashion and textile companies are constantly working with scientists and engineers to develop material that’s chemical, plastic, and cruelty free. Zara has even pitched in, creating the “Zara Clothes Collection Programme”. Customers are now starting to be able to return clothes, which are then resold on pre-owned clothing websites or donated to charities.
This evening, I read an article speaking about a new and upcoming brand named AFEW. The brand name is an acronym, standing for "Air, Fire, Earth, and Water", meant to relay the importance of nature throughout the making of his brand. Mishra collaborated with Reliance Brands Ltd in order to create his first luxury line to be put on display at Paris Fashion Week 2023. Throughout his designs, aspects from each element in his brand name are found, along with representation of his Indian heritage. The brand is centered around the vision of the "contemporary" individual, placing an emphasis on a global perspective and connectivity. Some of the distinct points throughout AFEW would be things such as 3D surreal silhouettes along with his rather neo-traditional take on Indian fashion.