Ok so. I made a sewing pattern that involves a lot of maths on the end users part - this is the only way I, a complete pattern making novice, can make this 100% size inclusive. Luckily it’s super simple and it just a whole bunch of rectangles.
Yes it’s written in cm. Bite me.
So to elaborate a bit:
It’s pretty straight forward. You plug in your own measurements in the places it’s needed.
Body x2: should be twice your either shoulder width or your widest point (if you’re more pear shaped you might want to use your hip width) by the length from your shoulder to about mid thigh* (you can make it as long or short as you want. This could probably also work as a shift pattern in a pinch). In one of the pieces, you should cut a slit in the middle, which as shown above should be about from your neck to your sternum.
Sleeves x2: these should be 2-3 times your bicep measure (this will determine the poofiness of the sleeves), by your arm length. Adding a few cm to the length can be a good idea here. I usually just round up to what seems most logical.
Cuffs x4: your wrist measure + 3-4cm of ease, by how ever long you want them - 5-10cm is a good place to start.
Collar x2: your collar measure** by however tall you want your collar. Keep in mind that it will be folded over.
Gussets
Oh glorious gussets. The whole reason this pattern works! But also where it gets a bit mathy
Sleeve gussets: these are square. The diagonal should be about 1/6 of your total armscye (all the way around). Rather a bit too small than too big - it can fuck up the fit (it did for me)
Shoulder gussets: these will depend wholely on how buff your trapezius muscles are. If your neck/shoulder is at a right angle, they’re not strictly necessary, but if you’re super buff, they’re very necessary. I’d say an average shoulder gusset is about 5-7cm, but it’s up to you.
Reinforcements
Again, these aren’t strictly necessary, but if you want your shirt to last it’s a good idea to put them in. You can choose to use between 5 and 10 total. These don’t need to be very big, they just go at any split in the fabric. About 2,5cm is good.
Instructions
I used these videos for assembly instructions
youtube
This is going to be hard without pictures…
youtube
youtube
*you can also keep the body as one piece, which should then be twice the length you want it. The slit at the neck will also have to be cut in the middle of the piece.
**your collar measure is the measurement at your neck going over your collarbone rather than tight to the neck.
A little Labyrinth touch with oil painted earrings I did and a goblin king necklace off Etsy 🔮Shirt from a medieval market, skirt is Retroscope Fashions (from high school), boots I think off Amazon.
you asked me about stitching and i completely forgot. that’s the fault of the brain scorpions, not a lack of interest. tell me about shirts, the flouncy-pirate type
I hope you love a diagram because I do. I have a diagramed eyelet tutorial on my blog as well that includes photos if this isn't enough.
this is meant to be an undershirt, I recommend cotton or linen for materials, or anything else similarly gauzy.
Pirate shirt update: both neck gussets are in. Yesterday I really struggled with the first one, but the second one was much easier. I also watched a video about how to do buttonhole stitch.
Next steps are adding the shoulder strips, reinforcing the bottom of the neck slit, and gathering the neck.
My Pirate Shirt fabric arrived! Six days shipping from India, which is INSANE. I can't get stuff from Amazon on Prime in six days and their warehouse is like a hour away.
Anyway, also I'm very happy with the fabric. Good color, very soft, thin but nicely opaque...
I've cut (okay mostly torn) all of my pieces and have started hemming. By hand, which means my hems are going to look like a Real Pirate sewed them.
My handsewing SUCKS. Not at all attractive. Look, I'm a machine sewer. But I can't GET to my machine with a broken foot and can't use it even if I could, cause it's foot fucking operated.
So historically accurate assembly it is. Complete with very wonky stitches. I'm sure there were pirates shitty at sewing, right? Most of the stitching won't show, just the hem, really, which most likely will be tucked in to something anyway.
(Also because I had to buy six yards to get free shipping (it would have cost as much in shipping as the fabric cost otherwise) I have enough for two shirts. I thought I might need 4-5 yards but I think I'm only using 3 unless something goes terribly wrong.
I wish I had order 3 of black and 3 of red but I would have been afraid I wouldn't have enough.
Stede's shirt appears to have a black ruffle trim in the trailer, which I may add later or may make removable because this shirt would be more wearable for me without ruffles getting in the way.
Also I'm basically using Bernadette's tutorial here for this, fyi. Slight changes to cuff and I'm adding a shoulder placket that I can see on some of Stede's other shirts, because it will allow more gathering across the entire front.
I have a lot of free time right now, and feel like DOING ALL THE THINGS
one if those things, is the Stacy core shirt from Bernadette Banner and clockworkfaerie
I already ordered some linen. But i don't want to spoil, expensive and good fabric with my absolute hand sewing beginner vibes.
So i practice it with some very loosely woven fabric i got ages ago (like with the fiber for my wedding dress)
I already have the fist sleeve finished!
Right now I'm working on the second one. And I think about adding some drawn thread lace near the cuff. What I'm trying out on the second sleeve. It is so tedious and small 🥲
I hope it looks decent at least..
Also the thread I have is way to sturdy for the fabric. (2 ply linen thread vs on ply cotton weave fabric. At least I think it's cotton)