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Sunday 7th June 2020

Poor body image can have a greater impact on your quality of life than you may realise. A few negative thoughts here and there can soon escalate, resulting in social withdrawal, anxiety and depression. Retrain yourself to love your body with our 8 steps to better body confidence.

Negative body image isn’t a subject that should be taken lightly. It’s effects can take a significant toll on the body, both physically and emotionally. Sufferers often become so consumed by the idea of the ‘perfect body’ that they forget what’s healthy and set unrealistic goals for themselves, leading to further emotional distress and disappointment. Women are the most guilty of not accepting and appreciating their body type. According to the charity DoSomething.org, “approximately 91% of women are unhappy with their bodies” and from those surveyed, “more than 40% of women and around 20% of men agreed they would consider cosmetic surgery in the future.”

1)Fake It Till You Make It

You may have met individuals who aren’t conventionally good looking, yet still have heads turning as they enter a room. That’s because body confidence is attractive, and if you love the way you look, so will everybody else.

After years of self deprecation, ditching your negative mindset can seem impossible. So start by faking it. When you catch yourself in the mirror don’t pick up on every single flaw. Instead tell yourself that you’re beautiful. Carrying yourself with confidence will eventually become second nature to you and you’ll feel much better about yourself.

2) You’re Your Best Friend

When your inner voice starts to bad mouth the way you look, stop and ask yourself - would you speak to your best friend like that? Or how would you feel if you heard someone else talking to them like that? Sometimes we don’t give ourselves the respect we deserve. Whenever you’re tempted to call yourself derogatory names, hit the pause button and switch it to something complimentary. You deserve better.

3)Trade Negative For Positive

Not just your thoughts, everything. If certain friends or family members only have negative things to say or make comments that hurt your feelings, steer clear. Surround yourself with people who support you and only want the best for you. People who project negativity and nastiness are massively insecure and say mean things to make themselves feel better. Find new friends who are fun to be around and don’t put you down. Getting out there and socialising can be a huge confidence boost.

4)Sign Out Of Social Media

Scrolling through Facebook can be an unhealthy distraction if you’re suffering from poor body confidence. Social media isn’t a reality, it’s just all the bits your friends want you to see. So don’t get swept up in the ‘great things they’re getting up to’ or ‘how amazing they look.’ Concentrate on yourself. They have down days too, we’re sure of it.

Try to find a hobby/positive outlet that stops you from overthinking.Take up reading and spend some time away from the screen. Maddy Malhotra’s ‘How to Build Self-Esteem and Be Confident’ is a good choice if you’re struggling to banish your inner critic.

5)Find A Workout You Love

Science agrees that exercise is a certified mood booster. Once the endorphins kick-in (the happy hormones) there’s no room for low self esteem. The tricky part is staying motivated. If the gym doesn’t keep you engaged, branch out and find a workout that really appeals to you. This way, you’re exercising purely for the love of the doing the sport and not to attain a specific weight or look.

Don’t confine yourself to the treadmill, get creative. Join a local football team, give hula hooping classes your best shot. Always fancied roller derby? There’s no time like the present.

6)Express Yourself

When you’ve low self esteem, it’s easy to fall into the habit of wearing things that hide your body. Whilst it’s wise to dress for your shape, you shouldn’t shy away from wearing clothes that you like and make you feel good. Revamp your wardrobe with clothes that you feel both comfortable and stylish in. You’re your own worst enemy at times and sometimes life’s little luxuries can be just the pick-me-up you need to feel amazing. Go for a massage, try out that new hairstyle. Never underestimate the power of a good pampering session.

7)Be Grateful

Getting hung up on the way you look is a waste of precious time and energy, and sometimes, it takes something pretty drastic to put things into perspective. Rather focusing on the bad, make a list of what you’re thankful for - those closest to you, your career, your home, your health. Others dream of having what you’ve got.

Take the time to be mindful and appreciative of all the lovely things in your life right this moment, and how you can nourish them even further in the future.

8) Seek Professional Help

Wanting to lose weight isn’t a bad thing if it’s a healthy decision. But when you’re need for perfection becomes obsessive and no amount of positive thinking can eradicate those bad feelings, it’s time to seek medical advice. Sometimes, other underlying issues are the root of the problem and only once they’re dealt with can you successfully take the steps you need to be body confident. Talk to someone.

Down below I have left a link for you to check out, perhaps together we can make a difference and help.

#positivity #motivation #self care #motivational quotes #positive thoughts #inspirational quotes #beauty #body image #bodypositivity #bodyconfident #mindframe

[linkalearnsjapanese]

This article is also available to read in the March 2020 issue of AJET’s CONNECT Magazine! Check it out here.

Have you ever walked into a Japanese souvenir shop and seen rows of beautifully carved and painted wooden dolls? These are kokeshi, one of Northern Japan’s most well known traditional art forms. You’ve seen them everywhere from antique markets to keychains. The wooden dolls come in all different styles and shapes, frequently depending on the region the artisan is from. Eleven styles in total are found throughout the Tohoku area, the home of kokeshi. Kokeshi makers in the region have created their own signature styles for painting faces or designs, and even shaping the body of the doll. 

Photo courtesy of Yorimichi Sendai

Its history goes back to the Edo Period. At Togatta onsen in Miyagi prefecture, wood craftsmen called kijishi branched out from their traditional wares to carve dolls. The dolls were decorated with scenes from around the area and were sold as souvenirs to the onsen visitors. The fad quickly spread to other onsen in the region. Because kokeshi is written only in hiragana, there’s no distinct meaning assigned to the word, but they were still viewed as good luck charms. Visitors came to onsens to improve their health and relax. When they left, their souvenir dolls came to signify good luck and well-being.   

Kokeshi are characterised by wooden bodies with round heads, usually painted with a black, red, and yellow motif. They feature more rustic styles being carved simply from one piece of wood. There really are a lot of styles that make it hard to define what a kokeshi is. However, if they’re shaped like cute girls with smooth, dark wood for hair—chances are pretty high that those kokeshi were made at the Usaburo Kokeshi studio in Shinto Village, Gunma Prefecture. Usaburo Kokeshi has been a major part of bringing the art of kokeshi into the modern age, preserving and developing this living tradition. 

Making the Leap to Modernity

Kokeshi have always been hand-crafted using traditional methods and tools. However, Usaburo Okamoto, the founder of Usaburo Kokeshi who was in the business of making dolls  from 1950 until his passing in 2009, came to the realization that it didn’t have to be that way. There was no kokeshi police stopping him from designing a whole manufacturing system. So he did. Usaburo is responsible for the creation of a new style of kokeshi; sosaku kokeshi. Although sosaku (創作) is translated as “creative,” the colloquial translation for sosaku kokeshi is “modern” kokeshi. This style is known for feminine facial features and a distinctive dark, bobbed hairstyle. Traditional dolls are hand-carved and painted. Usaburo updated the craft by designing machines that artisans could use to mass-produce doll bodies, but kept the painting and some carving by hand. He also threw in some poker-drawing for fun, a technique where artists use hot wires to etch designs into the dolls. Through a combination of all these unique styles and techniques, the Usaburo Kokeshi studio was born. 

The kokeshi makers, or koujin at Usaburo Kokeshi still preserve tradition by learning from senior artists; in fact, many of the artists at the workshop are direct descendents of Usaburo, or have been working for Usaburo Kokeshi their entire lives. However, by using the (relatively) new machines, they are also able to produce about 15,000 kokeshi a month, which is a lot more than they could do by hand. This enables Usaburo kokeshi to be sold not only all over Japan, but all over the world. The other modern twist at the workshop is in the design of the kokeshi. Usually, kokeshi display traditional scenes and have roughly the same body shape. Usaburo artisans threw all that out the window and decided to not only make their signature kokeshi, but also make pop culture figures. Now, you can buy a kokeshi version of TV and anime characters, mascots, and more. Because why not? I myself am the proud owner of a Gunma-chan Usaburo kokeshi, but I’ve also definitely had my eye on a Yoda one. Check out all the neato designs at the studio’s online store. 

At the Workshop

One of the fantastic things about visiting the Usaburo Kokeshi studio is that you can tour the factory, completely free. If you’re lucky, the artisans will be at work when you go in for a look. The machines and work stations are behind plexiglass screens, and helpfully have English signs explaining the process that happens at each station. Unfortunately, the English on these signs is . . . questionable at best. You can watch as the individual parts of the dolls are shaped, lathed, and polished. Although the machines are doing the hard work of high-speed carving, the artisan has hands on the pieces at all times. You can tell the amount of skill and precision that goes into making each part of the doll. Usaburo kokeshi are technically mass-produced, but each one is still a handcrafted work of art. 

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When you leave the factory and head into the shop, you can also see the decorating artists at work. They use hot bits of wire to delicately etch designs into the assembled dolls, and traditional tools for painting and carving. None of these decorations are sketched on beforehand; everything is totally free-handed. Personally, I cannot freehand draw a potato. The mind boggles at what these artists are able to create, almost magically. If you really want a deeper appreciation for their craft, you can sign up for a workshop to paint your own kokeshi. Nothing will make you realize that magic of what they do more than having a brush in your own hand. 

The shop itself is a delight to wander through. There are so many dolls to look at, in all varieties. If you get bored of looking at the dolls on sale, you can pop upstairs to a free museum of kokeshi. All the signs are in Japanese, but you can get a pretty in-depth history lesson just from walking through all the displays of kokeshi. It’s incredible to see how different designs and styles developed, and just how versatile this art is.  

Almost all the information in this article, and much more, can be found at Usaburo Kokeshi’s website. If you are at all like me (a big history nerd), and interested in the history of kokeshi at Usaburo and in Gunma, I’d highly recommend reading through the information there.

I also recommend Kokeshi, From Tohoku with Love by Manami Okazaki for your kokeshi reading pleasure.

Usaburo Kokeshi: A New Branch for Wooden Dolls This article is also available to read in the March 2020 issue of AJET's CONNECT Magazine! Check it out…

#art history #こけひ #群馬 #群馬県 #gunma #gunma art #gunma prefecture #japan #Japanese Art #japanese art history #kokeshi #shinto village #traditional art #usaburo #usaburo kokeshi #卯三郎こけし

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Pirelli goes down the rabbit hole with all-black cast for 2018 calendar | Fashion

Last week, British Vogue’s new editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, launched his first issue, ushering in a new era of diversity for the fashion bible. By the weekend, Enninful had struck again, this time with the 2018 Pirelli calendar, which he styled, and cast with an all-black group of models, activists and actors.

Shot by fashion photographer Tim Walker, the calendar features Naomi Campbell, British Vogue cover star Adwoa Aboah, Sudanese-Australian model Duckie Thot, South African lawyer Thando Hopa, Whoopi Goldberg, Lupita Nyong’o and RuPaul, who were transformed by Enninful into characters from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Enninful took the job of styling the calendar before he was appointed editor, and though the timing of the two launches is coincidence, it does address a palpable shift in mood.

The Pirelli calendar was created by the Italian tyre company in the 1960s as a trade gift, with a focus on somewhat salacious imagery of women. In 1987, it hired the fashion photographer Terence Donovan to photograph a 17-year-old Naomi Campbell. In an approach that would feel deeply problematic today, she was presented as a scantily clad tribal princess.

For Campbell, who stars in this year’s edition 30 years on, this week marks a seismic change in the industry. “The message is so big, and the timing could not be more perfect,” Campbell said. In her 31 years as a model, she added, this is a unique moment in the industry’s acceptance of diversity. “The last two seasons have been better,” Campbell told the Guardian in New York. “It’s great to see these beautiful girls get this opportunity. I just don’t want it to be a trend, and I think we all feel that way.”

Despite its questionable beginnings, the calendar has been latterly praised as a greenhouse for photographic talent. In a jarring note, that included hiring the disgraced photographer Terry Richardson, who shot the calendar in 2010.

The Rabbit and the Mad Hatter in the 2018 Pirelli calendar. Photograph: Tim Walker/Pirelli

It has since branched out into a broader, and more artistic, project. Peter Lindbergh’s 2017 “More naked than a nude” shoot of Hollywood actors was a key moment, while a year earlier, the hiring of photographer Annie Leibowitz, who shot an older female cast, shifted attention towards the female gaze. This year, however, it has turned its attention towards diversity.

Pirelli hopes the styling will give the shoot a playful tone. “Over the past two years we had something more serious, so this year we wanted something more creative or magical,” Pirelli’s CEO, Marco Tronchetti, told the Guardian.

Tim Walker, a frequent Enninful collaborator in his previous position as W fashion editor, explained that his choice to photograph an all-black cast was part of larger conversation. “It’s difficult to be entirely clear, but fashion reflects the spirit of the times. The fashion industry is a wonderland, and it’s an immensely positive thing to see a black Alice … Alice is universal.”

Camilla Lowther, Walker’s agent, who is also the mother of Vogue cover star Adwoa Abdoh, said she believed the photographer and stylist had simply tuned in to the need for change that accompanied the political shocks of the past year.

The Queen and the King of Hearts. Photograph: Tim Walker/Pirelli

“Everyone had had enough” when it came to the stark lack of cultural diversity in fashion, Lowther says. “The first thing clients used to say was, ‘no black models’. They actually used to say that. But nobody would say that now. It’s time.”

Duckie Thot, the upcoming South Sudanese-Australian model, said she felt fortunate: “There’s never been a better time to be a black woman. We’re at a place where we’re being heard and we have the opportunity to do more. And Alice in Wonderland should be every woman’s story.”

Walker added that he felt there were “no more white stories to tell”.

“As a photographer, you’re standing there, focusing your camera, and looking at a certain white body shape yet again. It does become relentlessly uninspiring when there are so many other forms of beauty in the world,” he said.

There are still plenty of issues with the projection of black beauty in fashion. Last week, Lupita Nyong’o, who plays the Dormouse in Walker’s production, accused Grazia magazine of removing part of her hair for the front cover of its November edition. She said she was disappointed it changed her hairstyle to “fit their notion of what beautiful hair looks like”.

Oscar-nominated actor and model Djimon Hounsou (who plays Walker’s King of Hearts) said early in his career it had been suggested that he’d benefit from lightening his skin and straightening his nose. Being invited to star in the Pirelli campaign, he said, was a chance for people like himself to “finally be integrated in this fantasy world”.

Hounsou’s experience of working as a model was characterised by discrimination. “Of all places, fashion was the most brutal. Casting directors would say, ‘OK. Thank you for coming in. You might want to think about rearranging your nose.’ Comments like that for a young man coming up were extremely shocking. It certainly makes you self-conscious. Do I need to straighten my nose like all white people?

Whoopi Goldberg and Thando Hopa as the Royal Duchess and Princess of Hearts. Photograph: Tim Walker/Pirelli

South African model and lawyer Thando Hopa, who is albino, said she hoped her image as the Queen of Hearts would become a “vessel to carry a message of dreams and possibilities to women, people of colour, people who are considered different.”

“Look at Alice. She goes into a strange world. She gets small, she gets big. She’s trying to figure herself out. She says, who in the world am I? Other people are saying she’s a flower, she’s a serpent. They see her through their own eyes. She’s going through her own identity politics.”

Others in the calendar include Jaha Dukureh, the Gambian-born anti-FGM campaigner. “The calendar for me is about representation and how different we are, despite being black. It about our walks of life, where we come form and the stories we had to tell.”

This could be read as a manifesto for Enninful as he lays out his vision for Vogue’s approach to diversity. The title, he told WWD last week, has to represent “real women, and to be reflective of the society we live in. Diversity is very important for me. I want Vogue to feel like a shop that you’re not scared to walk into, one that’s quite welcoming.”

Campbell, who talked to the London mayor, Sadiq Khan, for Enninful’s debut issue, said she anticipated that fashion would be entering a time of fantasy again. “That’s how I always loved fashion to be. It’s so fun to put on an outfit and transform. With all that’s happened in the world, people are really wanting to dream again. I think we’re going to see fantasy.”

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