#ginza tokyo | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

airanddust · 7 months

Text

Eight days in Tokyo

After three years we finally made it to Japan. Back in 2020, Robert and I originally planned to visit Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, and then you-know-what came along. Fast-forward to this year, when, while checking my airline miles, I found I had enough to book us (awful, but virtually free) roundtrip economy tickets for an eight-day trip to Tokyo—so we went for it in mid-September.

Note to self: wait until REAL autumn to go to Japan. I’m pretty sure I got heat exhaustion during our trip. The humidity was suffocating and made the real temp feel like 99º F and was severely tiring.

Where we stayed

We stayed at the Dormy Inn Korakuen in Bunkyo City, right by the Tokyo Dome. It was reasonably priced in a quiet part of town. They sold me on the amenities, which included an onsite onsen—accompanied by a yogurt drink in the morning or ice cream bar at night—along with free ramen in the evenings, a massage chair (which we discovered far too late), and an extensive manga library.

We got a double room, and while I was preparing for it to be incredibly tiny based on what I’d heard about Japan hotel rooms, it wasn’t quite as small as I expected and held all our things with room for us to still move around.

What we planned

Months ago we started compiling a Google map of all the places we wanted to go, made a reservation at a mini pig cafe, and bought a three-attraction pass using Klook primarily to visit Tokyo DisneySea. (There is apparently no other way for foreign tourists to get Disney tickets unless you have a Japan mailing address.) We later added the Yokohama Hakkeijima Sea Paradise and TeamLab Planets, which meant we had four scheduled events and were free to explore the rest of the time.

What we did

Day 1: travel day

From Narita airport we took the Skyliner to connect to another train to our hotel, which took over an hour and a half, but actually longer than that overall because the ticketing was confusing and we were jet lagged.

Finally we figured out we needed both a Suica card (which you can use on almost every train) and a dedicated Skyliner ticket to get to Tokyo proper. From there we used Google Maps, our most trusted ally, to navigate to Bunkyo City.

The trains in Japan are clean and efficient and most stations play cheery recordings of bird songs. People line up in orderly fashion to board. The thing that most stood out to me, being from Seattle, is that there was not a hint of urine in any of the station elevators or hallways. Every place we went felt safe even at night. The trains seemingly go everywhere in the city and they’re easy to use with Google Maps, which even tells you which car to board for the best transfer. 10/10.

Day 2: Bunkyo City, Toshima City, and Harajuku

We got breakfast at 7-Eleven, which carries all manner of food and drink and even blenders to make your smoothie and a microwave to heat up whatever food you bought. We accidentally ate in without telling the cashier. (Turns out you pay 10 percent tax to dine in vs 8 percent to take out, which we didn’t realize because the sign was in Japanese in the back of the seating area.) In addition to food, konbini stores like 7-Eleven also have fax machines, ATMs, and the ability to replenish your Suica card, which is something we did a lot.

After our 7-Eleven experience we explored the manic overwhelm that is the 24-hour mega-mart Don Quixote, grabbed some pastries at BOU’LANGE, and walked around Koishikawa Korakuen garden to take pictures.

We rode the train north to the Sunshine City Mall where we hit the Pokémon Center and Gashapon Ikebukuro, the world’s largest capsule toy store.

We noticed a bunch of teenagers crowding around the mall’s central atrium and found out it was because a K-pop band called CIX was about to perform. We were going to stick around to see how it went until we found out there was an aquarium on the roof (?!?) and went there instead. We saw rare Baikal seals, which are the only mammals that live in Russia’s Lake Baikal, the deepest body of water in the world, along with river otters, penguins, pelicans, sharks, and a bunch of other fish.

That night we had a reservation at MiPig Cafe Harajuku where we got to hang out with baby pigs for about 40 minutes. (We booked an hour, but their system is such that you spend about half an hour sitting on the floor, then the rest of the time getting up to leave and checking out.)

One little pig fell asleep on me before another one came over to bully him off my lap. The staff explained many of the pigs are siblings, and there are lots of rivalries. Sure enough, we saw the same pigs start fights multiple times while we were there. It was adorable but also left me wondering what happens to the pigs after they grow up…? Maybe I shouldn’t think about that.

Day 3: Yokohama

We took the world’s longest train ride (only slightly exaggerating) to Yokohama Hakkeijima Sea Paradise, which is kind of like a distributed theme park on an island about an hour and a half outside the city.

We saw a SeaWorld-style show with beluga whales and dolphins and wandered labyrinthine hallways of aquariums. I rode a dinky little roller coaster called Surf Leviathan while Robert went to the Umi Farm, where he caught a sea bream they then cooked and served him.

A dolphin at the up-close-and-personal FUREAI Lagoon chucked a basketball to me—I was so surprised—and after I threw it back, he chose Robert next and then continued down the line of people standing along the wall.

We had yakiniku at Satsuki in Bunkyo City that night, up three flights of tiny stairs in a cramped building that was very cozy.

Day 4: Shibuya + Ginza

We headed over to Shibuya and popped out of the subway right into a festival at Shibuya Crossing, then traversed the famous crossing for ourselves.

We made our way to Flipper’s for soufflé pancakes (well worth the hourlong wait) before nearly sweating to death walking through Yoyogi Park to Meiji Jingu, a shrine where we accidentally crashed not one but two weddings. At this point it was so hot I didn’t think I could make it to the next train station. The humidity was demoralizing.

We hit up Ginza next and walked around what felt like a never-ending indoor mall, then got custom-printed drinks at Nissan Crossing. I got the chocolate latte and Robert ordered the lemonade and both were delicious.

The flagship Muji store had been on our list for a while and we were excited to check out all seven floors (plus hotel and food?!?) but it turned out three floors were closed for renovation, so we didn’t get to witness all of the store’s glory. Probably for the best because we ended up bringing home an extra suitcase of souvenirs anyway. Instead we got in line at Tsuru TonTan Udon Noodle Brasserie for dinner, which took over an hour. The udon was decent but I probably wouldn’t return.

Day 5: Tokyo DisneySea

We went to Tokyo DisneySea, which we thought would be less crowded on a Monday than a weekend, but it was so busy I can’t imagine how bad it would have been on a weekend. It was also so hot there were announcements about taking breaks and drinking water, which I’ve never heard at a theme park before, even having grown up in Florida. At one point I couldn’t even muster up the energy to move across a sunny walkway—I had to stop and sit for a few minutes before my body would let me go on.

Many hours were spent in line for Indiana Jones, Journey to the Center of the Earth, and 20,000 Leagues of the Sea, and our feet paid the price. I’m not a huge fan of Disney rides—I appreciate the theming, but the thrill level isn’t there for me—so I don’t think they were worth waits of that length, but I’m still glad I rode them since these rides are Tokyo-specific. I heard someone compare Tokyo DisneySea to Universal and it did feel more like that than a typical Disney park. The seaside theming and landscaping is really on point.

Day 6: Akihabara + Ueno

On Tuesday we explored Akihabara and Ueno, where I’m pretty sure I got heat exhaustion because I was tired and confused and barely able to finish sentences. After taking a break I was ready to give it another shot. Ueno is stuffed with signs, shops, souvenirs, and shrines, and was probably the biggest sensory overload of the trip for me.

We stopped at Pastel Caffe for honey toast and a caramelized banana parfait that revitalized me for our self-guided tour of Ueno Park and the Shinobazunoike Benten-do temple, where a lady randomly approached us and proceeded to, uh, bless us?

After being…blessed?…we went to Monster Hunter Cafe, which Robert had been wanting to check out after a renewed interest in their mobile game. The city’s many vending machines already had me hooked on strawberry milk but Monster Hunter’s version took it to another level (or maybe it was the heat exhaustion 😅).

Ueno boasts a great many souvenir stalls and brightly lit claw game shops, where Robert won an Oshi No Ko stuffed character. He also ran into a guy from the States who asked for a picture together since they were both wearing LA Rams gear.

Day 7: Ginza + Bunkyo City + TeamLab Planets

On our last full day, we got reservations at the six-seat Michelin-starred ramen shop Chukasoba Ginza Hachigou (h/t Koes!). You line up at nine a.m. to get tickets for a timed entry, then return at the time they assign you. While we waited for our slot we ventured over to Roar Coffeehouse; Ginza’s Pokemon Center; a shopping mall; and Ginza Petit Custa. When we returned to Chukasoba, we were served the chef-recommended "ravioli" ramen we'd ordered earlier. I'm no food expert but the ramen was pretty dang good.

With souvenirs piling up (cough Pokemon Center cough) we needed a suitcase to take back home, so we went by Ginza Karen (which, to my disappointment, was not staffed entirely by Karens), apparently a well-known luggage store. We settled on a Japanese-made bright yellow roller bag.

That night I wanted to ride the Thunder Dolphin coaster that was basically across the street from our hotel, but, true to its name, it was closed due to thunderstorms so instead we went up to the neighboring Bunkyo Civic Center observatory (for free!) to take in nearly-360-degree views of the city.

We shopped for some more souvenirs and Japan-specific skincare products at good ol’ Don Quixote before grabbing the abalone course at Grow in Bunkyo City, which was delicious. I wish we’d had time to finish the entire course but, alas, we had to miss the garlic rice and dessert because otherwise we’d have been late for our TeamLab Planets reservation.

Speaking of TeamLab Planets, I wasn’t sure what to expect because reviews were mixed, but it was a fun experience. It bills itself as an interactive art museum, and most of the exhibits offer completely unique experiences that will never be recreated. In the koi room you wade through knee-deep water while virtual fish swim around you in real-time projections that are based on your movement and the amount of people in the room. Our favorite was the flowers in space projection, another unique exhibit where it feels like you’re floating through a universe of flowers and butterflies.

Our last stop was Lawson’s for plane snacks and a final serving of strawberry milk, because I’m addicted and convenience stores back home are trash compared to Japan’s.

Day 8: back to the States

Our flight home from Haneda was delayed because…drumroll, please…the captain forgot his ID in his hotel room back in Tokyo. Our completely full plane waited on the tarmac for over an hour as some hapless soul fought traffic to retrieve the captain’s passport before we were allowed to leave. I guess on the bright side, the timing meant we got to see a Pokémon-themed plane as we taxied off, so there’s that.

Tokyo was a feast for the senses and I can’t wait to go back and explore more of Japan (although first I need to learn more than two Japanese words). I already miss the convenience stores, vending machines, trains, and bathrooms—seriously, they’re next level.

Random observations

Generally, walk on the left side of the sidewalk/escalator/etc

DOWNLOAD GOOGLE TRANSLATE! I mean, unless you are fluent in Japanese…

Don’t go in the summer unless you want to get heat stroke

Despite the heat, people mostly wear pants, dresses, and skirts, and everyone dresses much more formally than they do in the States (particularly in Seattle)

Almost no one wears sunglasses—I saw maybe three other people wearing them the whole time, and one of them was a tourist

There’s no tipping in Japan, but there is a two percent tax difference between dining in and taking away

You can apparently only pay cash to reload your Suica card…? Or at least, that was our only option

No one locks up their bikes—it was a shock to see dozens of bikes just sitting around freely, because bike theft apparently isn’t a thing there

There are actual telephone booths around the city

#tokyo #tourist #japan travel #japan trip #japan vacation #wanderlust #ginza tokyo

2 notes · View notes