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colasins · 4 years

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Designer who liberated the female body: Coco Chanel

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Chanel was founded by Coco Chanel in 1910, and the brand experience exceeded it. The reason why a brand is successful, except that because the design can withstand the baptism of time, the most important thing is the attitude behind it, and this attitude It must come from its soul character. One century, the influence is still unabated, the key is because the designer imparts an attitude to women through the clothing, this attitude allows the "Chanel style" to be passed down for a hundred years, making life in the 21st century Modern women can still resonate.

No one would object that Ms. Chanel is an innovator. As early as more than 100 years ago, Chanel subverted the clothing style and dress concept of women in the traditional European society at that time. The female clothes in the traditional European society of the eighteenth to nineteenth centuries were thick and complicated. The corsets and long skirts were gorgeous but not Practical, pursuing women's freedom Chanel's design concept is "elegance, simplicity, and practicality". Taking inspiration from men's clothing, designing a neat line suit, abandoning the extra long skirt and shortening the skirt to the knee. In 1920, the brand launched a classic little black dress. The designer boldly adopted the black used only by the funeral dress at that time, and pursued a simple and elegant design style. Ms. Chanel was a reformer in the conservative era and changed the way women wore the original dress. （Greenhalgh, C., 2014）

Today, the Chanel dynasty, like other fashion brands, includes shoes, leather bags, cosmetics, accessories and other categories, but Chanel's design still carries a special "work plot". The most famous is still a suit. Chanel's suit color can be made very soft and the material can be selected very comfortable, but the neckline will never be very low, and the skirt will not be too short. In short, everything can make women work comfortably and bloom beautifully in a low-key manner, but it will not have a negative impact on work.

Coco has passed away, but the understanding of feminism is epoch-making. Women need independence and career, but do not need to sacrifice women's appearance in order to compete for their careers. This is the best artwork Chanel has left. .

Chanel's Secret Love History Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (2009) Director: Jan Gaoneng Screenwriter: Chris Greenhalgh / Carlo De Boutiny / Jan High Energy Starring: Anna Muglalis / Max Micholson / Jelena Morozova / Natasha Landinger Genre: Drama / Love Production Country / Region: French Language: English / French / Russian Release Date: 2009-12-30 Runtime: 118 minutes

Coco Chanel: the legend and the lifeJ Picardie, C Harwood - 2010 - HarperCollins

Chanel, C., Spitz, M. and Losta, C., 2013. The Chanel Legend. Mettingen: Draiflessen Collection.

Chanel: the vocabulary of styleJ Gautier - 2011 - Thames & Hudson

Fashion pioneer Chanel Coco avant Chanel (2009) Director: Anne Fontine Screenplay: Anne Fontine / Camille Fontaine / Edmond Charle-Roux Starring: Audrey Tatum / Benoit Polward / Alessandro Nivola / Mary Gillan / Emmanuel Dove / Genre: Drama / Biography Country / Region: French Language: French Release Date: 2009-04-22 (France) Films Length: 105 minutes

Greenhalgh, C., 2014. Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky. New York: Riverhead Books.

https://www.mings-fashion.com/mademoiselle-prive-chanel-%E5%B1%95%E8%A6%BD-69413/

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generalconnoisseursandwich · 3 years

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Organic Scintillators Market Research, Growth Prediction and Research Report Till 2026

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colasins · 4 years

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1.Masculinity, masquerade and display: Some thoughts on Rick Owens’s Sphinx collection and men in fashionA Bancroft - Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 2016

This is a must-read for anyone who has ever doubted that fashion is more than just a visual pleasure." Before I opened the book, I was most impressed by this recommendation from Nilgin Yusuf, creative director of the school of media and communication at the London institute of fashion. After reading the book, I agree with this sentence even more. Fashion, as the most preamble of popular culture, not only pursues fashion and style, but also expresses designers' opinions on the world, which is related to the whole social and cultural environment, and actively absorbs philosophical aesthetics and other viewpoints. By understanding the cultural code behind fashion and putting down your books, you may gain a new understanding of the creative behavior of famous designers and the subversive avant-garde works of art. Clothing design is very personal style, but also let a lot of people confused and misunderstood. From the perspective of fashion criticism, this book summarizes the work of a fashion design master with a key word, and then interprets this professional vocabulary from various cultural perspectives, so that it and the designer and his works it summarizes can be understood by the general reader. For example, "deconstruction". Starting from derrida's theory of deconstruction, the author elaborates on the connection and difference between deconstruction in architecture and that in fashion design.

2.Joseph Beuys: Pioneer of a radical ecologyD Adams - Art Journal, 1992 - caa

Shaman and mysticism really have no love, but they always get a lot of intellectuals. The early boyce works are full of vitality, with only admiration for the oil chairs and mummies. I don't know whether it is the translation or the author's unwillingness to explain clearly. Social sculpture says a lot, but feels little. However, social revolution as an artwork and revolutionary organism as an artwork are still valuable legacies. Allan Antliff's introduction is a bit shallow and fan-friendly, but does touch on the criticism of Beuys's work. I think Beuys is so controversial, it would be totally abnormal not to raise any objection at all. Nor, of course, was there a proper rebuttal or response to Benjamin Bloch's criticism, which was simply labelled "slander" and "biased attack". In addition, when describing the irony of aboriginal artist James Luna's visit to Beuys' "I like America and America likes me" -- Hong Kong, I think Luna's performance of "Petroglyphs in Motion" criticizing Beuys was better than Beuys' performance criticizing Duchamp -- he was also quick to exonerate Beuys。

3.New York! Banks is coming! Banksy Does New York (2014) director: Chris Moukarbel type: documentaryRelease date: October 11, 2014 running time: 75 mins

Banksy was fine, but like all artists, once it became a subject of capital, everything went sour. Throughout the film, people "protect" a wall on the basis of "do you know how much this is worth?" while Banksy's autographed paintings sold for 60 yuan were not sought after. The whole thing is a bureau, with the streets as a stage for people to perform. And the pictures on the wall, like the plays on the stage, are ephemeral. As for the origin of the name banksy, some say it was the painter's surname, while others say it was just his alias. But banksy's low profile does not hide his boldness. Banksy is known for his art pranks. He often swaps world famous works for his own modified imitations in art galleries around the UK, causing a media sensation from time to time. He has scrawled graffiti all over Britain's streets and Bridges. In London's Trafalgar Square he has written bold slogans such as "designated riot zones" and "beware of litter" on the steps outside the Tate Gallery. For more than a decade, banksy has produced a large number of works with real life and anti-war content as the subject matter, the style is famous for black humor. ", he created a different art in this era, can be remembered enough, will disappear in the long river of history, really so important?

4. Westwood R, Jesse; C, Ronald; Book on Demand Ltd.pages:134

Lost legends and living legends, self-destructive genius and reconciliation genius. In particular, the way to avoid a biographical account of her life is to capture the character's sense of rebellion, identity and independence, and how she used her influence to get involved in the environmental movement. After watching it, I still don't understand fashion, but I am closer to this person, although I can neither reveal the inner world of the character nor tell the true legend of her life. But it also offers a glimmer of an independent soul that moves with sex, free of men, circles and politics. But just as she said, behind the logic of seemingly rebelling against the mainstream value, there is nothing more than more mainstream commercial marketing. It is a ridiculous thing that punk woman finally becomes a refined woman. Whether she is on the cutting edge of fashion, or whether capital has kept the so-called "independent" queen under her wing, is another question.

5. Chanel’s Secret Love History Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (2009) Director: Jan Gaoneng Screenwriter: Chris Greenhalgh / Carlo De Boutiny / Jan High Energy Starring: Anna Muglalis / Max Micholson / Jelena Morozova / Natasha Landinger Genre: Drama / Love Production Country / Region: French Language: English / French / Russian Release Date: 2009-12-30 Runtime: 118 minutes

At the beginning of the 20th century, it took more than ordinary courage to ignore the pressures of public opinion and moral constraints. Even now, when a hundred flowers bloom, my view of life that does not conform to the mainstream often wavered like a pendulum, and at that time, she was already beautiful, independent and strong, focus on design, the pursuit of love, without any hesitation. I want to travel through time to talk to her. What is morality? If you knew what an irreplaceable passion is, you wouldn't be using the bottom line to measure infidelity. So, to his wife's question, "don't you feel ashamed?" There was a twinkle in her eye, but she soon regained her usual confidence. She knew exactly what she was doing. She always knew what she wanted. Why should such people feel guilty? Guilt for two of a kind is cruel. But as a result, some people are bound to become more and more like sleepy beasts. After all, the desire to be recognized is an unspeakable thirst in everyone's blood. So there will be stubborn. Dispute. In the dead of night, the temptation to tangle with each other. The weak always give in first. He didn't know the result, and he couldn't find the exit. She was awake, awake, awake. Invite the theater owner to dinner, sponsor the show, and do everything for him. Silence unconditionally. No one knows. Too sober person can be particularly lonely, but this loneliness also shaped chanel as always independent.

6. The Love of Van Gogh Starry Night Mystery Loving Vincent (2017) Director: Dolota Kobela / Hugh Welshman Screenplay: Dolota Kobela / Hugh Welshman / Giaco Dan Nal Genre: Drama / Animation / BiographyOfficial Website: www.lovingvincent.com Country / Region: UK / Polish Language: English ) Duration: 95 minutes

The film USES an undeliverable letter to connect the secrets of van gogh's last six weeks with three of the most important people in his life, taking the viewer back to Europe at the end of the 19th century and accompanying van gogh through his final days. The film USES the characters in van gogh's original paintings to restore van gogh's artistic life, allowing the audience to enjoy the breathtaking visual feast, to discover the secret hidden for a century and a half. Fanatical love van gogh's brushwork, and all lived together, that feeling is so wonderful, like entering a parallel world, and van gogh's dialogue across time and space, when he turned to leave in a special way, I already was in tears, in the darkness that brief encounter, to say goodbye, the tragedy of his life, he's famous legend. It's amazing to see the painter's strokes flowing through the frames, and maybe a little distracted. The story itself is a detective story. If you want a more detailed description of van gogh himself, both pialla and altmann are better; But of course the animation has its own beauty, and it's amazing to find those familiar characters in every scene.

7. Analyze the creative concept of artistic works with Hegel’s “Aesthetics” perspective-Taking Alexander McQueen’s costume works as an example L Yang -Light Textile Industry and Technology, 2012

Darkness, skulls, romance and imagination are the words that spring to mind when you think of the famous British fashion designer Alexander McQueen. The world's most famous and controversial fashion baddie, who hanged himself in 2010 on the eve of his mother's funeral at the age of 40, has left a world of speculation and speculation. From ordinary working families in the east end of London to the top runways of Paris and London, rebel's stunning talent has made him the star of an era reinventing popular culture. Under the aura and fame, the long oppression of depression and the death of relatives, also let him in the world's most crowded center, enjoy the roller coaster dive like a high-speed fall of loneliness. Genius doesn't have to be discovered, because it's already there. Legend can't last, because legend is always one in a million. Skulls and butterflies are about death and dreams. Flowers and birds, let color and emotion overlap. Before you, all the designers will be pale, compared to you, the whole fashion industry looks ordinary. You can feel life in death and find beauty in ugliness. Like you: Alexander McQueen.

8. Globalization: Incorporating the museum MW Rectanus - A companion to museum studies, 2006 - Wiley Online Library

If you want to design a product, you have to figure out how to make it."-- terence conran, founder of the design museum in LondonWe may ask ourselves: what is important about design? Why should I care about design? The answer is simple: because we live in a world of design, we live in a world of design. Just as we try to understand nature, we need to understand the world that man has shaped for himself. The concept of design goes back to the industrial revolution. At that time, factories introduced machines that could produce large quantities of identical products in a short time. For thousands of years the direct link between the craftsman, the customer, the producer and the user was suddenly broken down. When the workshop was replaced by the factory, "designer" came into being. They act as a bridge between producers and users, taking into account both the needs of millions of users and what products are more likely to be sold. Beginners who are interested in design can use this book as an introduction.

9. Dior by Dior C Dior - 2007 - Victoria & Albert Museum

It is the reflection and record of Mr. Dior's life on fashion, as well as the summary of his own fashion views. He elaborated his views on fashion with simple and interesting short essays. For example, his ideas and Suggestions on dress, lipstick, earrings, lace, embroidery and other fashion items or elements. This book is a must-read classic on fashion culture, as well as dior's fashion point of view. 1. Age -- there are only two ages in fashion -- girlhood and womanhood. Dress for your age. 2. Luxury -- the opposite of elegance. Elegance can be bold, but can never be extravagant. Better to err in simplicity than to be extravagant in dress. Elegance must be the right combination of individuality, naturalness, carefulness, and simplicity.

10. Picassos äventyr (1978) Director: Taj Danielson Screenwriter: Hans Elferson / Taiji Danielson Starring: Josta Eckerman / Hans Elferson / Margarita Crocker / Lena Olin / Bernard Kribins

It is said that girls are willing to find a partner who is similar to their father. What happens if a girl comments on their father like this? "If my husband treated me the way my father treated my mother, I would kill him." This is what Picasso's daughter said in the documentary. After watching the documentary, I really want to say that Picasso is really the father of cheating and playing with women's feelings, how can there be such a big man "charm"? Into the 50s and 60s can also hook up with teenage girls in their teens and 20s, simply cattle. He grew up among women, whom he loved and hated. To be precise, it was partly women who made him what he was, and it was relationships that made great painters. Every big change in his painting style is due to a certain woman, blue stage, pink stage, cubism, surrealism and so on. He was a man of great conceit; he despised the weaker, and hated the stronger.

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