solid perfume necklace in the shape of a mussel from estée lauder, 1974
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Bedtime scents last week, L to R; Christian Dior Oud Ispahan EDP (La Collection Privee), Anna Sui Sui Dreams In Blush EDT, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver EDT, Anna Sui La Vie De Boheme EDT, Versace Dylan Purple EDP, Anna Sui Sundae Mellow Yellow EDT and Estee Lauder Beautiful Magnolia EDP.
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Estée Lauder Youth Dew
Estée Lauder Youth Dew (vintage EdP)
Nose: Josephine Catapano
Notes: spices, aldehydes, narcissus, lavender, orange, peach, bergamot, coca-cola; spicy notes, cloves, cinnamon, rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley, blackcurrant leaf, orchid; incense, tolu balsam, Peru balsam, oakmoss, patchouli, amber, vetiver, vanilla, musk
I remembered Youth Dew, back when I was less experienced with perfume, as a spicy, warm balsamic Oriental. And it *is* that, but what I’m noticing most this time around is how floral it is and how much air there is in the middle.
It goes on with a boozy, bright-brown slug of ambers and resins, and keeps on buzzing with warming autumnal spices and a crackle of incense —really on the dry side as things go. But the heart of Youth Dew is really this lovely complex vintage swirl of aldehydes and florals. It’s regal. Queenly. But perfectly approachable and grounded. A Demeter fragrance. It makes me feel like a grown-up lady with a full life.
The core, bright-brown, spice-and-aldehyde scent chord is distinctive and hard to place — I think of it somehow as the olfactory equivalent of a French horn. It sings out; it’s bright but with some richness and solemnity. it’s got a bit of a cognac or whiskey quality. And then there’s a soft cloud of flowers trailing underneath it.
A lot of people can’t tolerate Youth Dew because it’s strong and it *does* smell like your grandmother (if your grandmother was American and around in the 1950s.) It’s very much a feminine scent, also; my guy friends who experimented with it uniformly found it unwearable. But I love it. It *is* strong; it’s warming, invigorating, fortifying. And it packs a dose of vintage glamour.
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Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait Review - Jean-Claude Ellena; 2023
Brand new from Frederic Malle and Jean-Claude Ellena: the retro-loving #HeavenCanWait.
It is to his credit that Frederic Malle continues to make us wait a whole year between new releases: he could so easily have given in to the temptation to churn out a half-baked creation every few months or so. And funnily enough, the passage of time is alluded to in his latest piece of work, Heaven Can Wait, created by the man behind some of his most memorable scents, Jean-Claude Ellena. Here’s…
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Estée Lauder Royal Lantern solid perfume compact.
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#Scentoftheday round-up from last week, clockwise from top left; Chloe Nomade Jasmin Naturel EDP, Gucci Flora Gorgeous Jasmine EDP, Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Le Parfum EDP, Chloe Nomade Jasmin Naturel Intense EDP, Burberry Goddess EDP worn with Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess EDP, Prada Paradoxe EDP and Gucci Bloom EDP.
I'm loving Nomade Jasmin Naturel, a very successful blind buy (and I really didn't expect to like a Chloe fragrance), different from anything else in my collection. Dug out Scandal LP as it's been a while (my favourite of the Scandal flankers, though I'm keen to get my hands on the new Absolu one). Had a hankering for Paradoxe (also been a little while since I wore it) and Gucci Bloom is always beautiful. Baffles me how the Flora's are EDP's, they really perform like an EDT, such a muted scent, I want more than they give. I'd also quite like a virtual pat on the back for not wearing my usual suspects (Dior Addict, EL Tuberose Gardenia and D&G Devotion) this week please!
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