Samurai's ranks and dress code in Late Edo period
AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!
For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".
You'll find the transliteration below cut:
The court ranks - Mibun 身分 or Ikai (位階)
Find more about the exact titles here.
一位 Ichii (First court rank)
三位 Sanmi (Third court rank) and 四位 Shii (Fourth court rank)
Goi 五位 (Fifth court rank)
Omemie ijô 御目見 以上, the "upper" vassals allowed to request audience with the shogun
Omemie ika 御目見 以下, the "lesser" vassals (not allowed to request audience with the shogun)
Rin does not mention the second court rank (二位 Nii) so I am not sure where this one is supposed to go ^^;
The clan/families - Kamei 家名
徳川将軍家 Tokugawa shôgunke (Tokugawa Shogun clan)
尾張徳川家 Owari Tokugawake (Owari Tokugawa clan), 紀伊徳川家 Kii Tokugawake (Kii Tokugawa clan), 水戸徳川家 Mito Tokugawake (Mito Tokugawa clan), 徳川御三卿 Tokugawa gosankyo (Secondary Tokugawa branch clans: Tayasu, Shimizu, and Hitotsubashi)
三奉行 Sanbugyô, & 下三奉行 Shimosan bugyô (magistrates, governors)
旗本 Hatamoto (general term for upper-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
御家人 Gokenin (general term for lower-rank vassals of the Tokugawa)
Outfits TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)
第一礼服 (大礼 など) Daiichi raifuku (tairei nado) - Most formal outfit worn during State/important ceremonies, etc.
礼服 (正月など) Raifuku (Shogatsu nado) - Formal outfit, worn for events like New Year, etc.
通常礼服 (節句など) Tsûjô raifuku (sekku nado) - Regular
formal outfit, worn during seasonal festivals, etc.
平服 Heifuku - Everyday outfit
Type of outfits
Rin has released separated charts detailing the different costumes. You'll find them translated here in coming days.
束帯 Sokutai - old ceremonial court dress, first worn by Heian nobility. Attire includes the 笏 shaku (flat ritual sceptre), and 冠 kanmuri hat.
衣冠 Ikan - old ceremonial court dress, much more simpler than sokutai
布衣 Hoi - "plain" 狩衣 kariginu (which were informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
素襖 Suô - ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai
直垂 Hitatare - ceremonial court robe
狩衣 Kariginu - patterned kariginu (informal clothes worn by the nobility from the Heian period and onwards)
大紋 Daimon - 直垂 hitatare with large family crests
直衣 Nôshi - everyday robes which were first worn by males of the imperial family during Heian era, and then spread among nobility, etc.
長上下 Naga Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with trailing pants called 長袴 nagabakama
半上下 Han Kamishimo - outfit pairing a sleeveless ceremonial robe called 肩衣 kataginu, with ankle lenght pants called 半袴 hanbakama
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At long last, this picture is finished! I worked several months on this, trying to push myself to finally incorporate some more interesting perspective angles and landscapes into my works.
This is a little visual preview of what's going on in my writing right now. Currently working on my second manuscript featuring Demetra, "Prophet's Grave". It seems she's left the comforts of the capital city Cheienna and ended up... well, where exactly? And what new challenges will she face there?
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Found this guy from a few months back that I forgot to post, he’s called Sarkach and he’s a daimon from my comic, although I don’t know whether he’ll be in it depending on what route I take it down.
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Formal outfits for upper ranks samurai & Most formal for lesser ranks samurai - Hitatare, Daimon and Suô court dress,
(as worn by samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".
The Hitatare
直垂 Hitatare first appeared as an attire worn by lower class warriors. As buke (warrior class) rose into status, it was slowy established as a formal garb for samurai during Kamakura period.
In Edo period, hitatare was the most formal attire worn by samurai of the 3rd rank and above. Fabrics used were luxurious, such as 精好織 seigo-ori (a type of textured silk, also used for Shinto priest clothing nowadays).
風折烏帽子 Kazaori-eboshi - black-lacquered hat made of silk, cloth or paper, originally worn by Heian nobility. Many eboshi shapes exist, this one is a upright style (tate-eboshi 立烏帽子) with top folded to the left.
袴 Hakama - formal pants, more exactly 長袴 nagabakama trailing pants
小さ刀 Chîsagatana - a small decorative katana
胸紐 Munahimo - chest ties, first appeared on Heian nobility clothes
菊綴 Kikutoji - decorative tassel-like knots, first appeared on Heian nobility clothes
袖括 Sodekukuri - decorative sleeve ties. Originally appeared on Heian clothings (like kariginu, nôshi, etc) where they were used to tighten sleeve cuffs. Later types like the tiny ones above are purely decorative.
The Daimon
The 大紋 daimon is a specific hitatare set patterned with large 紋 mon (clan/family crests). It was worn by fifth court rank samurai (rank of the daimyô lords for example).
It was put over a 熨斗目 noshime, a type of kosode (=ancestor of the kimono) worn by samurai, with stripes or lattice pattern around waist area.
The Suô
The 素襖 Suô, also a variation of the hitatare, was the ceremonial dress of the lower-ranked samurai. Via explicit permission of the shogunate, some samurai could be granted the right to wear 布衣 hoi (a type of kariginu).
It looked very similar to daimon set, but showed fewer crests of much smaller size. The hat was also different as they wore one called a 侍烏帽子 samurai eboshi.
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Bitter Black Isles reruns be like...(Dragon's Dogma featuring my Unholy Trinity)
Had fun doing this one between commissions
Love BBI and yesterday I officially rendered my longtime pure melee strider build busted op( the big buff lady in the front, she made a whole town of eliminators and 2 wyrms her bitch)
Right now I working on my Ranger and Fighter on their alt accounts to get just as busted(they are around level 70 atm, still some work to that twohundo)
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