Maison Martin Margiela line 0 vintage mens leather jacket reworked into a circular silhouette
the circular shape of this jacket was first presented during the Maison Martin Margiela spring/summer 2002 collection, which consisted of three groups of garments: circular, folded and cut
Fira de rams (Palm Fair) in Barcelona, Catalonia. Video by itsxaviripoll on Instagram.
On the days before Palm Sunday, many cities and towns have a fair selling the palms, laurel and other artisanal products for the holiday, like sugar rosaries and colourful ribbons.
Palm Sunday (the Sunday before Easter) is an important Christian holiday that commemorates Christ's arrival to Jerusalem. Many Christian denominations, including Catholics, celebrate this day by waving palm tree leafs, olive branches and bay laurel branches, like the people of Jerusalem who according to the Bible went to greet Christ in this way. On Palm Sunday, these palms and branches are taken to be blessed. The blessed palms and branches are kept until next year, when they're replaced by the new ones.
Wearing Time: Carpe Diem and the Artistry of Anti-Fashion (Pt. 2 / 2)
Continuing since part one of this article was simply too long.
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Luca Laurini
Luca Laurini, distinguished from his peers Cecchetto and Amadei, directs his focus exclusively on clothing within his label Under Construction, eschewing leather and accessories entirely. Established in 2003, Under Construction stands out as one of the most prominent among the four labels spearheaded by the former Carpe Diem design team. While guided by Altieri at Carpe Diem, Laurini honed his skills in knitwear, and his vision for the craft of knitwear and ready-to-wear fashion crystallized during the creation of L'Maltieri and Linea.
Unfortunately I couldn't find any picture of Laurini himself. More space for his creations!
Carpe Diem's prior emphasis on leather processing provided Laurini with the platform to express his ideas about knitwear and ready-to-wear pieces in a manner that was both disruptive and experimental.
Post-Carpe Diem, Laurini founded Under Construction with the explicit intent of challenging conventional perceptions of knitwear. The label's name itself implies that Laurini's collection consists of pieces intentionally designed to appear seemingly unfinished. Employing modern technologies and adopting an architectural approach, Laurini's designs are characterized by modern tailoring and urban minimalism.
The Under Construction collection spans from unconventional white T-shirts with uneven seams to black button-down shirts featuring non-traditional stitches. It includes tapered pants with flared crotches and gathered ankles. Laurini remains true to his roots, paying homage to Carpe Diem with a long-sleeved shirt adorned with a blue and white print reminiscent of muscle fibers. These garments embody the philosophy of Label Under Construction, marked by the fusion of technology and architecture with a steadfast focus on craftsmanship.
Through his label Under Construction, Luca Laurini demonstrates that, despite the absence of leather and accessories, he has the ability to craft an impressive array of modern and urban clothing pieces. These pieces stand out for their intentional imperfections and artisanal refinement, showcasing Laurini's commitment to pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion norms.
Sara Lanzi
Sara Lanzi, perhaps the lesser-known member of the Carpe Diem family, specializes in the transformative art of clothing, driven by her deep appreciation for knitwear. Serving as the steward of the Linea label at Carpe Diem from 1999 to 2003, Lanzi, a former student of contemporary art, sees the human body not merely as a reference point but as an object for "essential and transformative pieces." Her foray into the fashion world commenced with the presentation of her eponymous women's fashion collection in Paris in 2004.
Lanzi's overarching goal is to harmonize aesthetics and functionality, manifested through monochrome pieces with a strong emphasis on versatility. The Fall/Winter collection of 2006 showcased her innovative prowess, featuring garments that could be worn in various ways—a knee-length dress with a scarf serving as a sleeve or an unevenly draped ribbed tank that seamlessly transformed into a sweater with a collar. Another notable creation was Lanzi's A-line velvet dress, radiating monastic elegance from the front yet revealing a seductively transgressive deep back neckline upon closer inspection.
Sara Lanzi's current collections adhere to a similar concept, accentuating the duality of garments with a more subdued look tailored for the "natural woman." Lanzi's designs exemplify her ability to seamlessly unite aesthetics and functionality, highlighting the duality and versatility of clothing as mediums for personal style and self-expression. Despite her relatively lower recognition within the Carpe Diem family, Sara Lanzi has carved out a distinct place in avant-garde fashion through her inventive approach to knitwear and fashion, proving that her creative ingenuity transcends the boundaries of conventional recognition.
Taichi Murakami (Honorable Mention)
Taichi Murakami, the former pattern maker at M.A+ and the founder of his eponymous brand, stands as a prominent figure in the realm of avant-garde fashion. In the mid-2000s, the Gothic clothing movement (here's a brief reference to my blog article "How Post-Punk Influenced Nowadays Fashion") served as a global inspiration for designers, including Rick Owens in North America, and labels such as Julius, Attachment, Devoa, and The Viridi-Anne. While many of these designers share a lineage with Carpe Diem in some way, Taichi Murakami distinguishes himself through his unique and innovative work.
During his studies in Tokyo, Murakami gained experience at Lift, a multi-brand boutique in Daikanyama known for its artisanal brands like Carol Christian Poell and M.A+. Fascinated by Maurizio Amadei's intricate patterns at M.A+, Murakami aspired to work there one day. His goal became a reality after completing his studies when he secured a scholarship to study pattern making in Milan. In 2009, he joined Amadei as a pattern maker at M.A+, where he imbibed a flexible approach to the design process, a departure from the strict Japanese mentality. Amadei's encouragement for Murakami to experiment beyond traditional limits, creating prototypes from various materials, became a formative aspect of his creative journey.
After gaining valuable experience at M.A+, Murakami felt prepared to establish his own fashion line. In 2012, he unveiled his inaugural collection in Tokyo. Murakami identifies more as a clothing developer than a conventional designer, displaying an obsessive commitment to sourcing the right materials before embarking on the design process. With local connections granting him access to adventurous fabric manufacturers, Murakami's refined patterning adapts to the behavior of each fabric, allowing him to shape each piece in unique ways—resulting in garments that are truly one-of-a-kind.
Taichi Murakami's distinctive approach resonates throughout his collections, positioning him as a fitting successor to Altieri and Amadei's design ethos. His work epitomizes a successful fusion of traditional craftsmanship, experimental design, and the freedom to challenge established norms, marking him as a trailblazer in the avant-garde fashion landscape.
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Carpe Diem's indelible mark on artisanal fashion stands as a testament to Altieri's visionary leadership and the collective creativity of its members. Despite the surging interest in artisanal avant-garde fashion, the prospect of a Carpe Diem resurgence remains uncertain. Nevertheless, the dissolution of Carpe Diem has not dimmed the creative fervor of its members. Each, including Altieri with his "Vnapersona" project, ventures beyond the realm of fashion, infusing art into their pursuits.
Altieri, Amadei, Cecchetto, Laurini, and Lanzi have not only pioneered avant-garde fashion but have also left an enduring legacy, fostering a continued influence embraced by various labels and designers. Their artistic imprints endure, evident in contemporary collections two decades later. The Carpe Diem collective remains a pivotal milestone in the annals of artisanal fashion, its impact echoing through time. As we look to the future, the anticipation lingers for potential developments and projects from Altieri and his colleagues, underscoring their perpetual influence on the ever-evolving landscape of creative expression.