Solo Exhibition MISSED TRUTH by the artist Paola Giordano, curated by Marco Eugenio Di Giandomenico
On June 14, 2022, 19:00-22:00, the inauguration of the solo exhibition entitled MISSED TRUTH by the artist PAOLA GIORDANO takes place, curated by the art critic Marco Eugenio Di Giandomenico, organized by the Ethicando Association of Milan, at Palazzo Ferrajoli, Piazza Colonna n. 355, (00186) Rome.
The prestigious initiative, which lasts until 21 June 2022, enjoys the media support of the international communication platform Betting On Italy (BOI), which promotes cultural events and artists sensitive to the social issues of sustainability.
As the curator Marco Eugenio Di Giandomenico states, «The contemporary era, dominated by the incessant development of new technologies, is the scenario of new social dramas (epidemics, geopolitical conflicts, planetary immigration), almost in a historical ‘recourse’, which denounces the fragility of the human being, regardless of the teachings of the past, all devoted to pursuing short-term practical advantages
and using new media to build ‘false truths’ (MISSED TRUTHS) functional to selfish strategies. Paola Giordano expresses the existential unease of society contemporary, creator and victim of hypercommunication, no longer a vehicle of cultural and human contents of social edification, but the very object of every human activity, reaching out to the frantic search for consensus (like / don’t like), which become the only social recognition thermometer. Its metropolitan flowers, which in the society of transparency of the South Korean philosopher Byung-Chul Han, as a sign of the hope and victory of Beauty, emerge as if by magic from urban substrates almost devoid of humanity and charitable correspondence, disappear in the most recent artistic productions, where the rubber dinghy of immigrants or the mask against Covid constitute the sad denial of this, the acknowledgment of a contemporary ‘black hole’ in progressive expansion, increasingly detached from that relational dynamic of Love and fraternity, the only way for every human being to adhere to his / her transcendental nature / derivation».
The exhibition displays 20 works by Paola Giordano (12 paintings on canvas and 8 drawings on paper).
link for booking entrance tickets: https://www.eventbrite.it/e/biglietti-mostra-personale-missed-truth-dellartista-paola-giordano-348628656697
For information:
ETHICANDO Association
www.ethicando.it
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IRIS VAN HERPEN: OUTWARD FASCINATION
Deferred from how it was published in A*Desk
The 21st century has given us some of the most remarkable encounters between design and technology. Few fashion shows in this regard are as memorable as Alexander McQueen‘s Spring/Summer 1999, where the designer began to showcase some of the early scenarios of convergence between these two disciplines - and the (not so) incipient threat of the technological – something that would be evoked once again in his final catwalk Plato’s Atlantis (2010).
Certainly this is not something that happens from the late 20th century, since the relationship between fashion and technology it’s always been close: design is certainly hitherto linked to it. Think of designers like Pierre Cardin and his incorporation of plastic and sculpturality in the ‘60s. Similarly, in the early 2000s, the first fashion shows by Turkish designer Hussein Chalayan revealed a marked interconnection with different nuances of technology, something that would increase in the subsequent years. Both examples illustrate how what we now remember as low tech, and therefore technology itself, has always been linked to clothing.
Iris Van Herpen, Snake Dress (2010), Dewi Driegen by Duy Quoc Vo for V Magazine Online
On this occasion, the decorative arts museum of Paris proposes in "Sculpting the Senses" an exhibition dedicated to the fragmentary universe of Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen, with a focus on her haute couture work, something in my opinion its reductive and non-assertive.
Despite these precedents, Van Herpen's style is different: her vision for the future seems at a surgical level. Her aesthetic approach edges on asceticism, exhibiting a visual purity that reflects a deep exploration of the most contemporary architectural language. There seems to be no place for the rawness of certain organic materials; it must be from this desire that the synthetic verses towards water and wind emerge.
This approach is not limited only to technique and execution based on parametric architecture, characterized by its fluidity, fragmentation, and changing patterns, but also extends to the conceptualization of her creations. Van Herpen is known for her ability to draw inspiration from diverse sources, achieving captivating results and exploring avant-garde themes beyond the traditional conventions of fashion.
Iris Van Herpen, Quaquaversal (2016). Photo: Morgan O’Donovan
But the operating room is primarily dark - from a museographic standpoint - the designer is presented to us as an enigma, whose creativity will only be accessible through another process but semiological recognition, as if replicating a reverse engineering process concerned.
The curation proposed exposes us to the work of the designer, juxtaposed with various art and design objects, attempting to explain the sources of inspiration and where relationships there emerge. In this solipsistic process, all historical antecedents, such as the previously mentioned works of Chalayan or McQueen (with whom this latter the dutch designer took her first steps), are eradicated.
Iris Van Herpen, Cathedral Dress (2012). Photo: Morgan O’Donovan
Sculptures like "Nautilus Penta" (2023) from the Belgian artist Wim Delvoye, where Gothic cathedrals overlapped are used as minimal units (as is customary in his style), and in this case, twisted to replicate the shell of the mollusk from which it takes its name, is contrasted with the "Cathedral Dress," presented in the spring collection of 2012. A similar process is carried out, perhaps one of the more linear relationships in this effort to point out possible influences.
Throughout the exhibition, there is an attempt to desensitize the spectators, a quest to intoxicate the senses, altering perception with a disturbing sound installation: an endeavor to materialize a synesthetic effect, referring not only to Van Herpen's own condition but also to the themes of her seasons "Seijaku" (Autumn/Winter 2017), where she explores the aesthetic potential of cymatics, studying the visual evolution of sound waves as geometric patterns, and "Sensorie Seas" (Spring/Summer 2020), where the neuroscientific theories of Santiago Ramón y Cajal converge with his structural drawings of the nervous system, compared to patterns presented by different types of cnidarians and mycelia.
Iris Van Herpen, Entangled Life Dress (2021). Photo: Myrthe Giesbers
Considering precisely the dynamism and vibrational sensations evoked by the use of garments, the decision to almost completely eliminate movement in the exhibition of the pieces is quite controversial - another major misstep in museography - when clearly this is their core requirement.
Certainly, this motile dimension is essential from the inception of her work, as can be seen in designs from her Spring/Summer 2010 collection, something replicated in the sculptures of Kate McGuire and Juliette Clovis.
Iris Van Herpen, from Hacking Infinity (2016). Photo: Morgan O’Donovan
This characteristic bestowed by weightlessness is essential in Van Herpen's work, where a prolific oceanic style can be recognized. Recognizable references such as the silhouettes evoked by Alexander McQueen in his aforementioned show "Plato's Atlantis", indicate that the aquatic relationship is not the only one that interests the designer; rather, it encompasses any anti-gravitational connection, any dynamism of form that may be related to challenging entropic conceptions (in a strictly physical sense). Contrasting with the stiffness and heaviness of other designs that clearly reference processes of crystallization and fossilization.
Between Music Group performance during catwalk Aeriform (2017). Photo: Morgan O’Donovan
Van Herpen's universe is undoubtedly a synthetic convergence between the forces of nature and cultural process, reorganizing and rearranging codes and social orders in a style where crinoids and ruffs can couple to give birth to an intricate artificial mesoglea*. A symbiosis of high technology and the craftsmanship of haute couture emerging from embroideries reinterpreting mycelial patterns.
In the development of three-dimensional appendages, even coated in latex to mimic skins of mythological creatures, cochlear forms or liquid metals, this subjects created by Iris Van Herpen are cyborgs of distant bodies. Virtual boundaries are evoked in a pulsating, centrifugal, outward fascination, from which sensory barriers are ejected. This virtuality functions as a holographic, mutable boundary, both technological and biological: a limit that can be an embrace as well as a weapon.
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*The mesoglea is the mainly watery tissue that serves as a hydrostatic skeleton in animals of the phylum Medusozoa (jellyfish)
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