Today we're taking a look at the costume of an OLD period film, where my interest collide: 1920s and the 18th century.
Der Rosenkavalier (1926) is based on the opera of the same name by Richard Strauss, and the music from that is what accompanies this not so silent film. Since the libretto is changed a lot from the one of the opera, the movie also includes music from Strauss' Couperin suite. It was premiered in 10th January of 1926 at the Dresden Semperoper, and Strauss himself conducted the orchestra! Isn't that super cool? You can watch it on YouTube!
The costume design for this film was by Alfred Roller, Hans Rouc, and Stefan Wessely (the three of them usually worked in Art Direction), and Ludwig Rudlof was the wig maker.
I had never thought about this film until I was reading a magazine (a new one, from 1923 LOL), and there was a little column about Jaque Catelain (who plays Octavian in this film) and it had a photo from this film. And OF COURSE that sent me to a rabbit hole. I mean, look at him (and Elly Felicie Berger):
And, now something @vinceaddams always tell us all to look at: LOOK AT THE COAT SHOULDERS!!!!!! That's so good! AND FROM 1926.
Now, I love LOVE LOVE the costumes of this film. Let's take a look!
First of all, we have not one, but TWO robes de cour with the right kind of lace sleeves! One has a more historically accurate neckline, and the general silhouette of the torso. It was worn by Huguette Duflos as the Countess Maria Theresia von Werdenberg (the Marschallin):
And the other has a more square neckline (like in a middle way between a court mantua and a robe de cour), and the torso is less accurate (she doesn't seem to be wearing the right stays, nor the dress having the proper boning), but the petticoat is SPECTACULAR (worn by Elly Felicie Berger, as Sophie):
The women have both other dresses:
A robe à la française in stripes for Sophie:
This very flammable looking for the Marschallin:
And this one is also a robe de cour (kind of?), but with a petticoat and overskirt that feels more like a robe à la française. I mean, it clearly closes on the back, so I like to think of this dress as a robe de cour.
We also see Carmen Cartellieri wearing... this... dress and a coat/robe over it. This might be the dress that looks more like a halloween costume of the whole film, but honestly, I've seen way worse lately...
Now, let's just enjoy all of the menswear. They have some funny and odd cuff choices, but the general look is WAY better than many MANY modern 18th century set films and series. But the coats, the wigs, the cravats... it is all so pretty!
Here some early 18th century wigs:
LOOK AT THE VOLUME OF THIS FROCK COAT!!! Also, I LOVE that they kept the dark coloured hair of Jaque Catelain as Octavian in some parts:
And in other parts where he's supposed to be dressed nicer, he wears a white wig. This is also my favourite suit of the film, that looks taken straight from a Barbier illustration:
Now let's look at Paul Hartman as the Marschall. The silhouette that he wears is slimmer and fitted closer to the body than the other characters, being it from later in the century.
He wears a court outfit, that has too short breeches and too straight front:
His other main look is this suit with decorative lines, that along the riding boots, gives him the appearance of strict military dude. The front is nicely curved, and even the shoulders have a structured feel that matches the character. That's good costume design, my friends.
Over this outfit, he wears a carrick (or garrick) coat and a tricorn hat:
We also have Michael Bohen (as Ochs von Lerchenau) and Karl Forest (as Herr von Faninal). Their looks are kind of mid 18th century (?) and earlier 18th century kind of mixed together. They have different lengths of waistcoats and one of their coats (the one on Karl Forest) looks earlier to me. But in this comedy of errors, both of them are supposed to be kind of silly, so I accept that they look kind of odd. Still, better than many series I've seen lately.
So, to finish this post, here are some images from the film that I didn't use complete before, but you might want to see. Enjoy:
So, what is your favourite outfit from this film?
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